


^/- ,\\^ . cVV 



y^^^ 



^ 



^^V\" .S^" 



o 0' 






^^ 



.^^^ 



.0 




^0^^^ ' 



^ s ^ ^^- 



\>' ^ ^^ ,, X 



w 



aX- -^^'^^''//^./c '^ ,^ 










'V- v^ 



-^^ >l 







v^^' 


"^-^.- 






^^^ ^^^ 



\/ ^ -^ ^-' " / 



'^- ^ 8 , A ' 



'^^ ,^^ 



.V - 






> "^. 



<> 


>^^' - . 


A^^' 








^ 'r. 
























.\" * 



^ 



.. ,^M>.. ^ << 



-^^ v^^ 



O 0^ 



^^ -n^. ; 






C>|^ 






^^<^. 






V- V' 



'^/. 






v^' : /; 






>0o^ 




v^^ 






,vV s^ V ' h o 



.■ .<^' 







„^^ 



A ** 













^>^ ^ 



ff 1 \'*\^^" 



OP 



A VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 



IN 



i§i6 and i§i6. 



WITH 



SOME ACCOUNT OF THE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENTS 



OF THE 



isrs^a^isiD ©mis^siiBiii^s 



CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 



BY THE REV. C^I. LATROBE. 




NEW- YORK : 

PUBLISHED B¥ JAMES EASTBURN AND CO. 

AT THE LITERARY ROOMS, BROADWAY. 

Clayton Si Kingsland, Printers. 
1818. 



TO 

V 

MY DEAR CHILDREN^ 

CHARLOTTE LOUISA, 

PETER, ANNA AGNES, JOHN ANTES, CHARLES iOSEPIJ, 

BENJAMIN FREDERIC, 



My dear Children, 

IT was at your particular request^ that I wrote the fol- 
lowing circumstantial account of my visit to South Africa. Knowing 
how deeply interested you felt in every thing relating to your Father^ 
and that the summary account of my proceedings, contained in letters^ 
would not satisfy you, 1 was encouragedy under all circumstances ^ to 
persevere, 

I did not then expect to be called upon to publish this Journal^ 
which, though now given to the Public, I yet consider as dedicated td 
you. If its publication requires any apology^ I am sure that you wilt 
admit any thai lean make, either for its style, its details, want of ar-- 
rangement, occasional repetitions, or the freedom with which I have 
stated to you my sentiments and opinions on various subjects. 

My official report was immediately sent to those to whom it belonged ; 
but as you all delight in the success of the service in which I was engaged^ 
I have introduced a pretty full account both of the external construction ^ 
and internal state, of a Mission of the United Brethren among the 
He then. 

Receive it, therefore, as a mark of my paternal affection, and as a 
testimony of my gratitude to God, for having blessed me with children, 
whose filial duty, love and confidence, I have hitherto uninterruptedly 
enjoyed, and of whom I may cherish that firm trust, that theya^ve not only 
MY children^ but *' the children of God, by faith in Christ Jesus.^' 

C. L LATROBET. 



PREFACE. 



The Directors of the Missions among Heathen nations, esta^ 
blished by the Church known by the name of Unitas Fratrunij 
or United Brethren, having been frequently requested by the 
missionaries at Gnadenthal and Groenekloof, near the Cape of 
Good Hope, to send a person, duly authorized, to visit those 
settlements, I was appointed to that service ; and, on my return, 
delivered in an official report of my transactions. I have, how- 
ever, been desired by many well-wishers to the Missions, and 
others, to publish the following narrative, originally written for 
the information of my family and friends. 

One object of my visit was to assist in making some arrange- 
ment with the Government of the Colony regarding the security 
of the Missionary Settlements of the United Brethren. 

The beneficial influence of Christianity in enlightening and 
civilizing Heathen nations, of which the Mission among the Hot- 
tentots at the Cape furnished the most convincing proofs, being 
generally acknowledged, Government had expressed a wish^ 



VI PREFACE. 

that a third Settlement, under the superintendence of the 
Brethren, might be made in the interior ; and condescended to 
give the necessary directions and powers for fixing upon a spot 
of ground, as yet unoccupied, and suitable for that purpose* 
On that account, it was desirable, that a journey should be made 
through the Colony, in search of a convenient situation, if exist- 
ing circumstances favoured the undertaking. 

Though I felt myself insufficient for the execution of a com- 
mission so extensive, and so important to the concerns of our 
Church and its Missions, yet I ventured to accept the call, in 
reliance on the help of God, to whose service I count it the 
greatest favour, honour, and pleasure, to be enabled to devote 
all the powers of soul and body ; and comforted by the con- 
viction, that in all things " our sufficiency is of God." 

This Journal was written, as leisure or hurry, rest or weari- 
ness, quietude or interruption, or other contingencies and dis- 
positions of mind permitted ; yet always with strict attention ta 
truth, and a desire to avoid misrepresentation. 

I LAV no claim to those qualifications which are required, if 
the only object of the journey be the improvement of science ; 
but, being habitually attentive to subjects connected with geo- 
logy, mineralogy, and botany, some account of them will be 
found in the course of this narrative, though I had frequent oc* j 
casion to regret, that my acquaintance with them was not suf- 
ficient to enable me to enter upon scientific description. To 
my friend, J. W. Burchell, Esq. I am indebted for the scientific 
names, added to the subjoined list. The best information upon 
these subjects may be found in the works of Sparmann, Barrow, 



PREFACE. Vll 

Lichtenstein, Burchell, and others ; nor will the Colony ever 
want men of ability, ready to explore its widely extended re- 
gions, while it is in possession of a Government, ever attentive, 
not only to the promotion of moral and political good within its 
own dominion, but to the distribirtiop of the benefits of its dis- 
coveries to all mankind. 



^ © W B M A ILa 



CHAPTER I. 

Various Occurrences and Remarks during the Voyage to the 
Cape of Good Hope. 

On the first of October, 1815, at eight in the morning, we 
left Gravesend with a fair wind and fine weather, and in 
the evening came to an anchor in Margate roads, to 
await the return of the tide. 

On the 2d early we proceeded, and were fortunate 
enough to get round the South Foreland, with a fair 
breeze at north-west. The clearness of the weather gave 
us a good view of the coasts of England and France as 
we passed between Dover and Calais, and the state of 
the wind permitting our keeping near our own shores, we 
were much gratified by the appearance of the rocks, 
headlands, towns, and villages, as they successively pre- 
sented themselves to view. 

3d. The wind veered round to the south-west, and to- 
wards night rose considerably. The motion of the ship 
became troublesome, but as our captain was determined, 
if possible, to keep the sea, every exertion was used by 
tacking and otherwise, to proceed against contrary 
winds. 

Passing by the Isle of Wight on the 4th, the wind had 
so much increased, that but for a providential shift in our 
favour, we should have been compelled to put into some 
port. Nothwithstanding the unpleasant situation, in 
which, as persons unaccustomed to the sea, we found 

1 



JOURNAL OF A 



ourselves placed, and a secret wish to be delivered from 
it, our desire to proceed was so great, that we all thank- 
ed God, that we had met with so good a sea-boat, keep- 
ing so close to the wind, and so determined and skilful a 
conductor. The wind abating; towards morninp*, we soon 
forgot the troubles of the night, and spent the 

5th. Mostly on deck. In the afternoon, however, the 
weather assumed a more unfavourable appearance, and 
threatened a stormy night. Until two in the morning it 
blew hard. I staid on deck, beholding with astonishment 
the foaming surface of the troubled ocean, till the vio- 
lent rain drove me down. 1 cannot deny, that in the 
mind of a landsman, the pleasure, occasioned by the no- 
velty and magnificence of such an exhibition, is intermix- 
ed with some degree of fear, often amounting to an ap- 
prehension of danger, where in fact there is no sufficient 
cause. As it w^as in my cabin that I found my imagina- 
tion most active in conjuring up these needless perplexi- 
ties, my station in rough weather during the whole voyage 
was chiefly on deck, where the courage and skill of the 
captain, and frequent conversation with him and our fel- 
low passenger Mr. Buck, who generally kept me compa- 
ny, dissipated all fears. The Start point was the last 
land we saw through the misty atmosphere, and I now 
took leave, for the present, of dear Old England, with a 
comfortable assurance in my mind, that by God's mercy, 
I should return to it in safety. This assurance never 
forsook me during the whole time of my absence, and I 
mention it with peculiar thankfulness, as it kept me always 
cheerful and contented, whether at sea or on land, and 
free from those misgivings, which, though considered as 
the mere work of imagination, often affect our peace and 
happiness even more than real evils. 

6th. Though we had all pretty well recovered from 
sea sickness, yet with me, it left behind a total want of 
appetite, which during the whole voyage, prevented my 
partaking of much food. But though after some time, I 
felt myself weakened in body by such abstinence, I partly 
ascribe to it that degree of hveliness which I preserved 
in my mind, and the pleasure I took, in being constantly 
occupied with reading or writing. It was not till after 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 



this day, that we could make some regular arrangement 
as to family worship, most of us having been hitherto too 
often confined to our cabins, to allow of our meeting to* 
gether. From this time, immediately after breakfast, we 
read the portions of Scripture appointed in our Church 
for each day, and sang some verses in connexion with 
their contents, offering up praise and prayer to Him, 
" Whose eyes run to and fro throughout the whole earth, 
to show Himself strong in the behalf of them whose heart 
is perfect towards Him." Every evening we met for the 
same purpose, and on festivals and memorial-days called 
to mind our fellowship with our Brethren at home and 
abroad, by a short address delivered to the company on 
the subject of commemoration. Besides the daily wor^ 
ship, we met regularly on Sundays about ten o'clock in 
the morning, when w^e read the Litany, and heard a dis- 
course, either read or delivered by a missionary, with 
suitable hymns, as usual in our congregations. On these 
occasions our hearts were often filled with renewed com- 
fort and confidence, and we may truly bear Avitness to 
the fulfilment of our Saviour's gracious promise given 
unto his disciples, and to all them, "Who, through their 
word should believe on Him," that, " where two or three 
are met in His name, He will be in the midst of them, 
even unto the end of the world." And not only when 
thus assembled, but when we entered into our closets and 
directed our prayers and supplications to our heavenly 
Father in secret, we experienced of a truth, that His 
mercies are not confined to time and place and form, but 
that He hears and answers all, who in every place, and 
under any circumstances, call upon and worship Him in 
sincerity and truth. We not only met with no interrup- 
tion from the captain, the crew, and our fellow passen- 
ger, but rather with every degree of attention and indul- 
gence ; nor were we ever prevented by the state of the 
weather from regularly attending to the daily service. 

I had provided myself with an assortment of books, 
some of which I had not had leisure to read at home, and 
to-day, began to examine my stock and put them in order 
in my cabin. The first parcel I opened contained several 
pamphlets, chiefly German, sent to me by my friend, Mr. 



JOURNAL OF A 



Ackerman, for the amusement of the company. Most of 
them related to the political affairs of Germany, the bat- 
tle of Leipsic, &c. containing much interesting informa- 
tion, recent and important, though the late escape of Bo- 
naparte from Elba, his invasion of France, first success- 
es and final overthrow at Waterloo, has placed even the 
great events of 1813 and 1814 in the back ground of the 
picture. But who that considers the dealings of God 
with mankind, can contemplate the events of the last five- 
and-twenty years, without being humbled under His 
mighty hand, and giving to Him alone all the glory of 
our deliverance. To him who thus reads the history of 
the late wars, it will prove a useful lesson. 

While we were in the channel and in the bay, vessels 
of various descriptions were continually in sight, but we 
now seemed left alone. 

9th. A shoal of porpoises surrounded the ship. They 
were passing from west to east, and amused us much by 
their playfulness and the astonishing swiftness of their 
motions. They are said to be forerunners of a storm. 
Towards evening the wind rose, with frequent drizzling 
showers and flying black clouds. It increased so much, 
that the appearance of the sea after sunset became ra- 
ther terrific. The waves frequently broke over the fore- 
part of the ship, and sometimes even approached us, 
as we sat on the quarter-deck. For above two hours 
the moon shone bright, every now and then seeming 
to step behind some dark swift-flying cloud, and to 
come forth again with redoubled lustre. The foaming 
edges of the waves appear at a distance like long lines 
of phosphoric light, chasing each other, and w^henever a 
wave dashes over the decks, the sparks it contains run 
with the water to and fro, as the ship rolls from side to 
side. About eleven o'clock, assistance was called for 
in the cabin, as the trunks and other articles had broken 
loose and were sliding backwards and forwards on the 
floor. The door of the pigsty bein^ forced open, the 
poor animals ran in great consternation backwards and 
forwards on deck, and one having the misfortune to fall 
headlong down the cabin stairs, the noise of its fall and 
its cries added to the terror of the scene. The wind 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 



however being fair, we were thankful, amidst all the 
restlessness occasioned by the ship's motion, that we 
were getting fast forward. 

10th and 11th were tolerably quiet days, but on the 
12th the wmd turned against us, and though above 240 
miles off the coast of Portugal, the captain thought it un- 
safe to proceed farther towards the south-east, the di- 
rection in which we were then steering, and towards 
evening tacked and stretched towards the north-west, 
the wind from the southward rising, and every now and 
then squalls with rain increasing its force. The sea 
was now in a terrible ferment and assailed the ship on 
all sides, but particularly from the north-west, from 
whence a heavy swell came rolling towards us in tre- 
mendous surges. We ran under close-reefed top-sails, 
keeping as near as possible to the wind, against a head- 
sea ; but at two in the morning the wind shifting, put 
about agam and kept on our course. The morning 
turned out fine, and a very large shoal of porpoises 
played about the ship. 

When I sometimes sit on deck, surveying this im- 
measurable deep, I think, surely. He that made the 
sea and all that is therein, did not intend that it should 
be only the playground of the many different tribes of 
fishes that flit through its upper regions and skim alono- 
Its surface, but the habitation also of innumerable crea^ 
tures of His hand, that walk upon its bottom, probably 
with shapes, properties and powers, unknown to us. I 
am ready to exclaim with the Psalmist, « O Lord ! how- 
manifold are Thy works ! In wisdom hast Thou made 
them all : The €arth is full of Thy riches. So is this 
great and wide sea, wherein are things creeping innumera- 
ble, both small and great beasts^ Ps. civ. 24, 25. It is 
well for them, that we have not discovered the means of 
hauling them up, to make their heads, bodies and tails 
assist in furnishing the tables of our citizens with new 
dainties. They, at least, live undisturbed by that de- 
vourer-general, Man. His pretension is vain, to claim 
the dominion over all the beasts of the field, the fowls of 
the air, and the fishes of the sea ! That dominion was 
given to him in his state of innocence, before death came 



JOURNAL UP A 



into the world by sin. Then indeed all interior crea- 
tures looked up to him with love, respect, and willing 
subjection, as tp a friend and patron. But now the first 
question commonly asked by a child, when it sees or 
hears of any living creature, walking, flving, or swim- 
mino-, is, '' is it good to eat .^" Many commentators seem 
to have entirely forgotten, that by the fall of man he lost 
his dominion over other creatures, and when the Lord 
repeats the declaration of His will concerning man after 
the flood, speaks no more o{ dominion^ but of"' the dread 
of man^' upon them, with permission to use them for 
food. 

During the following days, the weather was calm, and 
the rolling of the ship, occasioned by the north-west 
swell, proved very unpleasant. We were engaged in 
preparing letters to send home by any passing ship we 
might meet. 

J 5th early, a sloop hove in sight, which turned out to 
be a Dane, bound from Malaga to some Danish port. 
The captain went on board, committed our letters to 
the master, and made an exchange of some Hollands for 
melons and raisins, which, as our stock of fresh provisions 
was low, was of service to us. 

Reading Miller's Life of Huet, a French bishop in 
the seventeenth century, I found the following pas- 
sage, which, perfectly according with the sentiments of 
every true Protestant Christian, I hope I shall not be 
blamed for inserting a translation of it. The vene- 
rable prelate, speaking of some works, written by him 
in the monastery of Aunay, proceeds — " But long be- 
fore I occupied myself with these subjects, I had 
conceived a much more important undertaking, to 
which^ indeed, more than to any thing else all my 
studies and contemplations hitherto had a reference. 
This was an Exposition and Elucidation of the Ho*^ 
ly Scriptures. From my childhood, such a venera-f 
tion for its divine origin, and such a high estimation of 
the worth and internal excellence of this book had taken 
root within me, that, though my youthful spirit delighted 
and almost revelled in the beauties of the fine arts and 
the mathematics, it always returned with pleasure to 



li 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 



these sacred records, as feeling itself in them at home, 
and in the former only as a wanderer and pilgrim. And 
yet, at that time, I had no knowledge of the Hebrew 
language, and could not extend my research beyond the 
narrow limits of the vulgate. But having broken through 
these bounds, and, as it were, standing at the fountain it- 
self, my soul felt an increasing relish for this study, and 
I believed, that I now saw the mysteries of heaven with- 
out a veil. 

" My mcreasing and more intimate acquaintance with 
those sacred books convinced me, that, even if they were 
not of divine origin, which faith teaches us to believe 
them to be, and which we know by internal conviction, 
yet both their antiquity and the immense number of ex- 
traordinary, mighty, and marvellous subjects, which are 
to be found in this inexhaustible treasury, and nowhere 
else, render them worthy, that we should devote all our 
care, diligence, meditations, and nightly lucubrations, to 
the study and understanding of them alone. Being, 
therefore, now released from the bondage of the court, 
I again betook myself to the study of the Hebrew, com- 
bining with it that of the Syriac and Arabic, ajid because 
the knowledge of languages, requires long and repeated 
exercise, I never suffered one day to pass, betw^een the 
years 1681 and 1712, without employing one or two 
hours upon it, being a period of thirty-one years ; nor did 
I ever suffer business, journeys, or even illness to inter- 
fere with this resolution. Thus, during that period of 
time, I have read the whole Old Testament four-and- 
twenty times, with the greatest delight, and essential be- 
nefit to my soul." This worthy man was a devoted Ro- 
man Catholic, and speaks with the greatest gratitude of 
St. Genevieve, by whose kind intercession he was re- 
stored from a dangerous illness, and to whom also, w^hen 
he first took orders, he commended himself for assistance 
in a faithful discharge of his priestly office, by reading 
his first mass at her tomb, in a vault of her church at 
Paris, Thus, the most excellent and enlightened men 
of the age, such as Huet was, in his day and station, may, 
in certain points, remain quite in the dark, till the Spirit 
of God, by a progressive work, grants the rays of his 



g JOURNAL OF A 

light and t.utli to shine upon them. Such reflections 
should make us more candid and forbeanng, in judging 
of the state of men's minds in other persuasions, dittering 
from our own, conscious that we ourselves have yet much 
to learn, before we attain to perfection. 

17th. Two vessels hove in sight. The first hoisted 
Endish colours, and we edged towards her. She proved 
to be a Poole ship from Newfoundland, bound to Valen- 
cia in Spain. Mr. Buck, being a native of Poole, found 
an acquaintance in her captain, and gave him some very 
welcome information concerning his family, a circumstance 

which afforded us all much pleasure This morning I 
be-an to read Montgomery's " World before the Flood. 
There is a strain of genuine piety in it, which cannot tail 
to edify all unprejudiced readers. I see no reason tor 
his making such an humble apology for the fiction. 

18th Fly in ^ fish made their first appearance, and as 
on that account it was hoped that dolphins were not far 
off, in pursuit of these defenceless creatures, we pre- 
pared with great eagerness of expectation to revenge 
the cause of the pursued, by an attack on the pursuers; 
in which, however, we were disappointed, for not a sin- 
gle fish approached the ship. The wind was contrary, 
and we made but little way. 

19th. In the forenoon, a shoal of bonnettas kept for 
some time playinj? about the ship, and many attempts 
were made to strike them, but in vain. In the afternoon, 
a laro-e turtle was observed asleep, and floating close to 
the ship. The jolly-boat was immediately lowered down, 
and the captain and two sailors set off with all speed 
after her, but by some mismanagement missed their 
snatch, and she escaped. 

I read to-day a well-written characteristic of Count 
Zinzendorf in manuscript. The author, Mr. Loretz, sent 
me this piece about twenty-five years ago, together with 
Miller's life of that nobleman, which, but for its tiresome 
digressions, I should have read with pleasure. He wished 
me to furnish an English translation; but the want of 
leisure, and a consciousness of my inability to do justice 
to the subject, induced me to decline it. I should, how- 
ever, think myself highly favoured, at a proper time, 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 9 

^nd in a satisfactory manner, to contribute to rescue the 
memory of so great and excellent a man as Count Zin- 
zendorf from that unmerited obloquy, which has been 
cast upon him by base and wicked enemies, and too of- 
ten repeated by persons misguided or misinformed. The 
apologies made for various expressions in his writings, 
which appear eccentric, or even incorrect, seem to have 
satisfied most objectors on the continent, but in England 
have not as yet been much attended to. 

20th. Certain rocks, marked in our charts as lying to 
the north of Porto Santo, and called the eight stones, 
were to-day an object of some anxiety to the captain; 
and though their existence is not fully proved, he kept a 
sharp look out for them by night and day. Our dead 
reckoning was by this time so much at variance with the 
chronometer, that, by the captain's account, there was a 
hundred, and by the mate's no less than a hundred and 
forty miles difference between them. 

On the 21st, the island of Madeira appearing far to 
the westward, estabhshed the truth of the chronometer's 
reckoning, to the great satisfaction of the captain. We 
moved on but slowly, with light breezes. The time, 
however, passed pleasantly, as I was continually em- 
ployed in reading, writing, or agreeable and interesting 
conversation with my fellow passengers. This evening 1 
finished reading Risler's life of the Rev. August Gottlieb 
Spangenberg, a bishop of our Church. As we are apt 
to compare ourselves with those, of whose life and cha- 
racter we read a description, more especially if there be 
some degree of similarity in our professions and occupa- 
tions, I cannot help confessing, that this narrative led me 
into a train of reflection, very humbling to my own heart. 
Compared to this extraordinary man, I sink into nothing ! 
What indefatigable application of all the energies and 
powers of soul and body, even from his earliest years, 
to acquire knowledge of every kind ! What eagerness to 
explore the truth; and what zeal and fortitude in prac- 
tising that which he had gained in theory ! And when he 
had found Jesus to be that Glorious Being, " in whom 
are hid all the treasures of wisdom and knowledge," with 
what full purpose of heart did he not ^- count all things 

2 



10 JOURNAL OF A 

but as dung and dross, for the excellency of the know- 
ledge of Jesus and Him crucified !" How .strictly did he 
watch over himself, and seek in all things, by word and 
work, to glorify the n-ame of his Saviour ! He was, 
indeed, a pattern and ensample to the flock. While I 
admired him, in all his principles and practice, and in the 
multiplicity of his labours in the Lord's vineyard, I could 
not help recollecting with much regret, that I did not 
better improve the acquaintance 1 was favoured to have 
with so distinguished a servant of God, during my resi- 
dence at Barby from 1776 to 1779, when, on account of 
the friendship he bore to my grandfather, H. Antes in 
Pennsylvania, and to my late excellent father, he showed 
particular attention to me. But though I highly respect- 
ed him, I did not then know how sufficiently to appre- 
ciate the inestimable value of the notice and counsel of 
such a man. He also honoured me with his correspond- 
ence, after my return to England ; until his departure out 
of this world, in his 90th year, deprived our Church of 
one of its most distinguished ministers. 

22d. Between three and four in the morning, the watch 
announced the approach of a schooner, which, on hailing, 
proved to be an American, bound to Boston. The cap- 
tain and Mr. Buck went on board and purchased some 
boxes of raisins. The weather was remarkably fine and 
bright, but calm. The sailors call this preliminary state 
of calms and baffling winds, previous to entering into the 
regular trade-winds, the dolldrums^ from which we pray- 
ed that we might soon be delivered. 

21th. At daybreak, land was discovered towards the 
south-east, being the Salvages, generally considered as 
belonging to the Madeira islands. They are uninhabit- 
ed. The rocks, called Piton rocks, were likewise in 
sight. The highest of them is a square looking jagged 
precipice, connected, by a dangerous reef, v^ith two 
others, which stand singly, and are not so much ele- 
vated. At noon, a strange sail appeared in sight, under 
Spanish colours. We shaped our course towards her, 
and Mr. Buck conveyed some letters on board. She 
proved to be the Constantia from Lancerota, one of the 
Canaries, bound to Ireland for provisions. In the even- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 11 

ing, the Peak of TenerifFe was seen, bearing south« 
south-east, but surrounded with clouds. Towards night. 
Brother Clemens was seized with a violent spasm ; the 
pain of which increasing, exceedingly alarmed us. As 
he was convinced from former experience, that nothing 
but bleeding would relieve him. Brother Stein took 
courage to perform the operation; and though it was 
the first time he attempted it, without the direction of a 
surgeon,* it pleased God to give him success, and the 
patient was soon relieved from immediate danger, 
though several days were required to complete his re- 
covery. We all felt truly thankful to our Almighty Pre- 
server, to whom our prayers were directed for help in 
so distressing and dangerous an emergency. 

25th. Flying clouds and squalls seemed to announce a 
change of weather, and deliverance from the calms we 
had hitherto suffered. Whenever it cleared up, the 
Peak of. Teneriflfe, at about eighty miles distance, ap- 
peared beautifully lodged among clouds passing along 
its middle and lower region. Palma, another of the Ca- 
nary islands, was also in sight; but our hopes of a 
change disappeared towards evening, and, except two 
or three light breezes of short duration, the calm con- 
tinned. The appearance of the sky at sunset was mar- 
vellously grand. Large masses of clouds, in lines, sha- 
ded with a bright bhieish gray colour, showing through 
various openings the brilliant orange, purple, and green- 
ish tints of the unclouded atmosphere beyond them, ho- 
vered above the western horizon, which, down to the 
edge of the sea, glowed with the most vivid gold and 
crimson hue. This grand picture was reflected by num- 
berless short rippling waves, as far as the eye could 
reach. Above the dark mass of clouds a bright purple 
tinged the heavens as high as the zenith. All seemed 
stationary and silent, no wind whatever accompanying 

* It is usual with the Brethren, that when Missionaries are sent 
abroad, some instruction is given respecting the treatment of patients 
of different descriptions, and the use of medicines. Brother Stein had 
thus acquired considerable skill in several branches of surgery, which 
proved useful on many occasions. 



12 JOURNAL OF A 

the clouds. In these latitudes, we had frequently a simi- 
lar display of beauty in the evening sky. 

26th. A breeze sprung up, but not in our favour. We 
tacked to the north-west and south-east all day. The 
islands were beclouded ; though now and then TenerifFe 
with its Peak showed itself partially uncovered. The 
heat was excessive, but the breeze made it bearable. I 
was engaged in reading a German translation of Bai^ 
row's account of his travels through the Cape colony^ 
which, as formerly, afforded me much pleasure and in- 
struction. He has made honourable mention of our set- 
tlement at Bavian's Kloof, now called Gnadenthal, which 
in 1798 was yet in its infancy. To a botanist, his work 
is peculiarly valuable. 

28th. We passed so close to the westward of Palma, 
that we could distinctly discern every object on shore. 
When the day dawned, its summit was covered with 
thick morning clouds and vapours. As they ascended 
or withdrew, the precipitous declivities of the mountains 
and rocks opened to view. The sun, rising behind the 
island, soon dispelled the clouds, and illumined its upper 
regions, the outline of which exhibited rocky ridges and 
glens, apparently stony and barren ; but towards the 
west, much wood covers the more gentle slopes. Two 
promontories form a small bay, with a fruitful coast, a 
town and landing place. The road is unsafe in wester- 
ly winds. About noon, we were again becalmed, while 
a sail to windward enjoyed a delightful breeze. 

29th. During the night, we had made some progress, 
and but for baffling winds in the vicinity of these islands, 
should now have reaped the benefit of the trade-wind. 

After breakfast, a heavy squall came on from the west, 
with violent rain, which put us in considerable motion. 
When it subsided, we held our usual Sunday's worship, 
but had hardly finished, when we were assailed by 
another squall, more lasting than the former. Above two 
hundred gallons of rain-water were collected, and the 
ducks being let out of their coops, enjoyed a splashing. 
There was now a sufficient quantity of water for all our 
live stock, which hitherto had been served rather too 
sparingly, considering the heat of the weather. This 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 13 

last squall brought on a fresh north-east breeze, and our 
captain began to hope, that we had at length gained the 
trade-wind. All sails were set, and we proceeded with 
great swiftness, overtaking a large bark and a brig, the 
former English and the latter Portuguese ; towards sun- 
set, our hopes again proved vain ; the Avind veered round 
to the south:, and dark clouds rose, with much lightning, 
in the western quarter. 

30th. The western horizon appeared uncommonly 
gloomy, and an almost incessant deep roar of thunder, 
threatened an approaching storm. After some doubt as 
to the course the clouds would take, they began to rise 
swiftly towards us. All hands were summoned on deck, 
and the ship prepared to meet the w^orst; but the storm 
was more terrific in its approach than in its presence. 
The sea was indeed for some time extremely agitated, 
and rose in considerable waves. Some strong flashes of 
lightning, accompanied by thunder not very loud, illumi- 
ned our cabin, into which the heavy rain had driven us ; 
but in about an hour, the wind fell, and we were yet 
more annoyed by the return of the old cdm, when the 
ship, becoming unmanageable by the rudder, was pushed 
about in any direction the swell gave her. Immediately 
after sunset, it began again to lighten all round the ho- 
rizon. 

31st. We made good way with a favourable wind till 
noon, when it again fell calm. 

I had been so much pleased with the second little vo- 
lume of Risler's Select Narratives, containing an account 
of the Spirit of the Church of the United Brethren, im- 
mediately after its renovation in 1722, that I resolved to 
translate it into English. 

In the evening, and during the whole night, it lightened 
incessantly. I sat long on deck, very much delighted 
with the grandeur of the scene. 

November 1st. I began to-day to read such parts of 
the Spectator as appeared to me most interesting. 

Addison certainly had a reUgious feeling, and now and 
then expresses himself with truth and effect upon reli- 
gious subjects : but I cannot help remarking, that, had 
he possessed a clearer view of the great price, paid by 



"^Ife^ii^ 



14 JOURNAL OF K 

our Saviour to redeem us from the vain conversation re- 
ceived by tradition from our forefathers, which is full of 
sin, and leads to sin and the love of the world, he would, 
in many of his papers, have avoided subjects and discus- 
sions tending only to excite those passions in the human 
breast, which had better be kept dormant. Indeed, as a 
principal party engaged in that work, he may be consi- 
dered accountable for the whole of what his associates 
have said in their different essays. Often, however, 
much instruction on religious topics may be gained from 
the perusal of his writings. I was particularly struck 
and pleased with the conclusion of a paper, written 
against vulgar prejudices and superstitions, by which 
foolish and idle people frequently torment their brains. 
I cannot help transcribing it : ''I have (says he) but 
one way of fortifying my soul against those gloomy pre- 
sages and terrors of mind ; and that is, by securing to 
myself the friendship and protection of that Being, who 
disposes of events, and governs futurity. He sees at one 
view the whole thread of my existence, not only that part 
of it which I have already passed through, but that 
which runs forward into all the depths of eternity. 
When I lay me down to sleep, I recommend myself to his 
care ; when I wake, I give myself up to his directions. 
Amidst all the evils that threaten me, I will look up to 
him for help, and question not, but he will either avert 
them or turn them to my advantage. Though I know 
neither the time nor the manner of death I am to die, I 
am not at all solicitous about it ; because I am sure, that 
he knows them both, and that he will not fail to comfort 
and support me under them." 

Nothing need be added to this beautiful declaration of 
hope and trust in God, except that I pray, that it may 
always be made by me and mine, under a firm conviction, 
that it is only in Jesus Christ our Saviour as God mani- 
fest in the flesh, that we can have any just view of God's 
mercy, and any assurance of favour and acceptance with 
Him. I w^ould not wish to repeat it as a moral heathen 
or deist might do, but as a Christian worshipper. 

In the evening, a bright meteor appeared in the north, 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA^ 15 

passing from west to east, and it lightened a great deal 
during the night. 

3d and 4th. We were favoured with good wind, and 
made tolerable progress. Two brigs hove in sight, and 
great numbers of flying fish skimmed along the surface of 
the water, or flew from the top of one wave to the other, 
pursued by bonnettas or dolphins. When the weather 
was fine, the captain always contrived to keep his men 
employed; they were now engaged in making anew 
mainsail, and the black carpenter in building a new ca- 
bouse or kitchen, for his black brother, the cook. In 
the evening, some flying fish fell on board. Their bodies- 
are shaped somewhat like a small herring, with large 
eyes. Their wings, or flying fins, reach nearly to the taiL 
and spread three inches ; but when dry, they can no 
longer support the fish above water. 

5th. At daybreak, land was seen. It was Sal, one of 
the Cape de Verde Islands, and presented itself through 
a hazy atmosphere, with two high peaks and some lower 
mountains to the north of them, a low land running out 
to the south. The breeze had freshened during the 
night, and the sea was rather turbulent, the spray often 
flying over the ship. After our morning service, the 
captain informed us, that the island of Bonavista, thirty 
miles from the former, was in sight. This island is the 
most picturesque of any we had hitherto seen. Coming 
from the north, its first appearance was that of two steep 
hills enclosing a lower range ; but as we sailed along 
its eastern coast, several ranges of mountains, of beauti- 
ful shapes and diiFerent heights, one after the other, 
opened to view. Some were cones, with craters on their 
rocky summits. The country below them^ though here 
and there showing patches of a green colour, had, in 
general, a very barren appearance. The haziness of 
the weather would not permit us distinctly to discover 
any smaller objects. The waves also sometimes swelled 
to such a height, as to hide the island for a moment from 
our view ; but as we passed swiftly along, we were much 
amused by the continual shifting of the scene, exhibiting 
the mountains in ever-varying positions. We were how- 
ever disappointed in our hopes of seeing Mayo, another 



16 JOURNAL OF A 

of these islands, a thick mist overspreading the horizon 
about sunset. The strong favourable wind continued 
all night. 

6th. This morning we had a very pleasing exhibition 
of the wonderful agility and swiftness of a host of bottle- 
nosed porjDoises, coming from the north. For nearly half 
an hour they played and frisked about the ship's bows, 
leaping out of the water, pursuing each other in all di- 
rections, tumbling tail over head, and performing all 
kinds of tricks. They seemed perfectly happy, and bade 
defiance to all attempts to pierce them. They were, by 
guess, from three to four feet long. It lightened again 
in the evening, and during the nighty but the wind conti- 
nued to favour us. 

8th. We were proceeding with a steady breeze in fine 
weather, wlien about noon the sky became overcast, and 
very black clouds began to rise from the south-east. The 
captain coming on deck, rather alarmed us, by the haste 
in which he gave orders to shorten sail. The swiftness 
also with which the clouds came rolling on, was remark- 
able, and they brought with them such a sudden gust of 
wind, that the utmost exertion hardly saved the royals 
and studding sails from being blown away, before they 
could be taken in. Some mischief was done to the rig- 
ging, and we could hardly stand on deck. For about 
an hour, we ran furiously through the water, when ano- 
ther cloud, much more black and threatening than the 
former, appeared in the south. Its approach was an- 
nounced by several claps of thunder of increasing loud- 
ness, and we prepared for a heavier squall, when, after 
a quarter of an hour's violent rain, it suddenly fell calm. 
Then, however, our troubles began, for the sea having 
become extremely agitated by the fury of the former 
gale, the swell was tremendous; and as there was no 
wind to carry us forward, the ship, being at its mercy, 
plunged very hard. A wave struck her astern, broke 
two of the cabin windows, overstreamed all the books, 
papers, and whatever lay on the lockers, and filled the 
floor some inches high with water. Fortunatelv not 
much injury was done, but we were obliged to put in 
dead-lights, and glad to retreat on deck out of so hot 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 17 

and dark a dungeon. Our patience was now again put 
to trial by the return of calms and light baffling winds, 
hy the sailors called cat's-paws. In the evening, a hawk, 
after flying long about the ship, perched on the fore-yard 
near the fore-top, and was taken. She was a beautiful 
bird. I protested against her destruction, as being con- 
trary to all rules of hospitality, but could not save her. 

9th. About three in the morning, a black cloud with 
very vivid hghtnmg and loud thunder approached us, but 
brought little either of wind or rain. More short squalls 
assailed us during the day. A brig having appeared in 
sight to the north-east, and proving to be a Portuguese, 
bound to the Brazils, we sent a packet of letters on board, 
which her captain promised to deliver safely. 

In the evening, clouds came on with thunder and light- 
ning, and while we were singing our evening-hymn, 
several strong flashes illumined our little cell. But while 
the elements seemed at war without, the peace of God 
comforted our hearts within. 

10th. The Portuguese brig, which had approached us 
during the squall, tacked and stood to the westward. 
This satisfied us that she was not bound to the coast of 
Guinea for slaves, as those who had yesterday been on 
board suspected. There is no doubt, however, that the 
slave-trade is secretly carried on under various preten- 
ces, notwithstanding the severity of the laws, and the 
vigilance of government. 

I read to-day a part of a "Collection of Anecdotes,'' 
in a German work, professedly written to promote mo- 
rality. What pains are taken to adorn the dead body, 
and make it look alive! to tie good fruit upon rotten 
branches; and, like the prophets of Baal in the days of 
Elijah, to expect fire from heaven sent by a god of man's 
own making. The effects of the writings of sentimental 
foreigners and their new-fangled systems of philosophy, 
having so clearly proved of what value they are in re- 
forming the minds and manners of mankind, by the late 
commotions in the world, ought long ago to have excited 
more attention to the truths of revelation, which declare 
man to be by nature, " dead in trespasses and sins," and 
unable to do good without a change of heart, wrought 

3 



J y JOURNAL OF A 

by faith in Jesus Christ our Saviour. But both m this^ 
and in some other modern pubhcations, there is yet a 
studied attempt to prove, that it does not signitj, whether 
a man be a Christian, a Jew, a Turk, a Heathen, or a 
Deist, if he but now and then do a good action, and show 
himself less a slave of passion than others. Then, say 
they, you are acceptable to God, and this is called en- 
lightening ! May God in mercy preserve us from such 
delusion ! 

I Ith. Poison having been spread about the lower part 
of the ship to kill the rats, an intolerable smell kept me 
awake great part of the night. The perisliing carcasses 
of these creatures are surely a greater nuisance than 
their existence. I repented, that I had complained some 
days ago that one of them had run over my face in the 
night. 

13th. We encountered a heavy squall with thunder 
and rain, by which we gained some gallons of sweet 
water. This was the more acceptable, as for some time 
past, the water in our casks sent forth a very offensive 
smell, being hardly fit to drink, except when filtered 
through a dripping-stone, made of Maltese fossil-lime- 
stone. 

16th. Flying fish and many kinds of sea-fowl appear- 
ed in great numbers, and on the 

17th, the captain, after many vain attempts both by 
himself and the crew, had the good fortune to catch a 
fish. It was an albicore, and had a flying fish in its sto- 
mach. Its length was about two feet, its colour dark 
green with darker stripes and spots on the back, its bel- 
ly of the most brilliant mother of pearl, its mouth small, 
the body narrow across the back, and about six inches 
deep between back and belly, sloping off to an inch and 
a half at the root of the tail. The latter is vertical and 
forked. It had six fins, two on the breast, one on each 
side, and two dorsal fins, from which, to the root of the 
tail, six small triangular fins were placed in a row. It 
was caught with a hook baited with feathers, which the 
foolish gormandizing creature mistook and seized for a 
flying fish. This evening a new mainsail was bent. 
18th. We crossed the line, when the usual ceremonies 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 19 

took place. Neptune and his wife appeared in the per- 
sons of the black carpenter and the second mate, most 
ridiculously apparelled and painted, a large grain repre- 
senting the trident. His aquatic majesty declared his 
great satisfaction, on being informed, that the vessel that 
had the boldness to enter his dominions, belonged to his 
old friends, the English, and kindly offered his services to 
initiate us into his society, by shaving and sousing. The 
ceremony was however dispensed with, in consideration 
of sixteen bottles of Hollands, to be distributed among 
the crew at a bottle a-day, lest they should be more hurt 
than benefited by the gift. The cabin-boy submitted to 
the operation. Being seated on a bar laid across a 
large tub, and lathered with a composition of tar and 
grease, he was duly shaved with a piece of an iron hoop, 
and well soused, by three buckets of water poured over 
his head. While I was pitying him on account of such 
rough usage, he came to me into the cabin, and expressed, 
with great glee, the satisfaction he now felt, in being 
made a thorough seaman, free of all headlands, promon- 
tories, &:c. whereas, before this initiation, freshmen must 
pay fines, and submit to many other degradations. Con- 
sidering the liberty always given on this occasion, the 
crew behaved very orderly. 

We dined to-day on the albicore, caught yesterday, and 
found it excellent food. The flesh was white and brown ; 
both parts equally good. 

19th. In the evening, before the moon rose, the sea 
abounded with large bright spots of apparently phospho- 
ric light, or detached collections of those sparks, which, 
singly, accompanied us every where. 

20th. Several men of war birds flew about the ship. 
Their bodies are not large, but their wings extend a great 
way. Oldendorp, in his Account of the West Indies, 
speaks of fourteen feet from tip to tip. Their bill is 
pointed, and they pounce upon flying and other small 
fishes with great dexterity and swiftness. 

2 1st. For some days 1 have been feasting my mind on 
Milton's Paradise Lost. To make any remarks on a 
poem so sublime and unrivalled, may seem strangely im- 
pertinent ; but, may I be permitted to say, that, whether 



20 JOURNAL OF A 

from my increased aversion to heathen mythology, or an 
idea, that its subjects are here and there brought in, 
chiefly as a display of classical knowledge, when quite 
unnecessary, 1 felt as if this truly christian and evangeli- 
cal poem was rather bespattered than ornamented by 
these old fooleries. Now and then, I grant, they are 
well introduced, when their absurdity is shown ; but am 
I right in thinking, that the whole might have been as ex- 
cellent, as classical, and as sublime, without much allu- 
sion to such wretched nonsense ? 1 fear, however, that 
to those, who consider the study of the ancient au- 
thors and poets of Greece and Rome an essential pre- 
paration for a work of this kind, it might have been a 
sufficient cause to reject the whole poem, had it not 
abounded with such classical allusions. More is the pi- 
ty, that the infinitely more sublime and elevated language 
of truth in the Bible should be so seldom imitated, and 
be made to give way to the lying and silly devices of 
idolatrous heathen. Nay, I fear that Milton's Paradise 
Lost will by some be laid upon the shelf, as an old obso- 
lete performance, merely because it sets forth the truth, 
in showing the fall and depravity of man, and salvation 
by faith in a crucified Saviour. The adulterous fondness 
for the works of modern poetasters, celebrating the ex- 
ploits of murderers and prostitutes, which has seized the 
present generation, is a proof, that sound taste is fast de- 
clining, together with sound religion. I was anew charm- 
ed with the beautiful simplicity and grandeur of Milton's 
ideas, especially in the first six books throughout. It is 
to be lamented, that he was such an incorrigible republi- 
can ; but he lived in bad times. 

22d. We were now favoured with the regular south- 
east tradcwind, and proceeded for many days, steadily 
keeping on our course, with fine weather, seldom dis- 
turbed by clouds and showers; though sometimes an- 
noyed by the uneasy motion of our small brig. Going 
one morning on deck, a sudden heel threw me against 
the companion, by which I hurt my back, and experien- 
ced much inconvenience for some time. Yet I had gain- 
ed such a relish for continual employment in reading and 
writing, that I did not suffer myself to be disturbed by a 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 21 

little pain. I also very much enjoyed the conversation 
of my fellow travellers, in which we generally spent ^ 
few hours after sunset, sitting on deck, beholding the 
ever-varying play of the numberless waves of the 
ocean, and deriving amusement and instruction from a 
variety of objects; for truly, ^^ They that go down to 
the sea in ships, they see the wonders of the Lord in the 
deep ;" nor is a voyage so dull a business as some would 
think. The waves, the clouds, the stars, shining with 
double lustre through a clear atmosphere, the effect of 
the sun and moon on the restless surface of the water, 
frequent and beautiful nocturnal exhibitions of lightning 
on the horizon, the appearance of fishes and birds at an 
immense distance from any known land, the progress of 
the vessel, the unexpected, and therefore highly welcome 
sight of ships of different nations, and occasional conver- 
sation with them in passing, and, I may add, the constant 
changes of hopes, fears, and reliefs from false alarms, 
with other subjects affecting the feelings ; besides the 
various occupations of the crew, the interest taken in the 
fate of the animals on board, — all these things not only 
keep alive the mind of any person, not wholly apathetic 
and inattentive to what passes around him, but tend to 
prevent languor and impatience from gaining too much 
ground. And what abundant resources are there not 
found in study, and the contemplation of the works of 
nature and art ; for the pursuit of which, a long voyage 
affords much leisure and convenience, seldom inter- 
rupted. 

Want of appetite, and frequent sleepless nights, which 
I considered as a very acceptable commutation for sea- 
sickness, having never suffered from the latter after the 
first week, had robbed me of much strength, but not of 
health, or energy of mind. I was therefore satisfied, not 
to be able, without great weariness, to walk about the 
decks, and comforted myself with the hopes of the re- 
turn of my usual powers, when wanted; nor was I dis- 
appointed. A week passed without any occurrence wor- 
thy of notice. 

28th. Having spent some days without seeing a cloud, 
^ fish, a bird, or g^ny thing to excite either alarm or won- 



22 JOURNAL OP A 

der, we were again visited by showers and strong puffs 
of wind. A flying fish fell on board, of a larger size 
than any we had yet seen, with black flying fins, its 
body about fourteen inches long. However, the unphi- 
losophical tars had mutilated him, before he was brought 
into the cabin for inspection. 

I read to-day the preface of the German bible^ print- 
ed at Basle in 1741. It gives an account of the manner 
in which the reading of the Scriptures was opposed in 
the Roman Catholic church, when even the clergy were 
kept in ignorance of its contents. How great was that 
darkness, when the whole Christian world tamely sub- 
mitted to such spiritual tyranny, and kings and princes 
were the dupes of wicked, designing, and ignorant 
priests ! How little are those blessings, which we enjoy 
in our day, considered and valued by some, who in their 
indifference to them, and under a supposition, that the 
spirit of popery is changed, see no danger in taking off* a 
salutary restraint, by which our pious ancestors sought 
to guard and maintain that liberty of conscience, for 
which they were ready to shed their blood. Surely, re- 
straint by wholesome laws cannot be called slavery by 
men who know how to distinguish between liberty and 
licentiousness. 

29th. At home or abroad, by sea or land, wherever I 
am, I can never forget the mournful event of this day, 
when our family and church were bereft of that excel- 
lent man, my father, in the year 1786. Though now 
nearly thirty years are gone by, yet, when the return of 
this day brings his death to my recollection, I feel some 
recurrence of the pangs, which then seized my heart. 
But I remember, that once in his last illness, calling me 
to his bedside, he expressed himself to the following ef- 
fect, in consequence of the lamentations of a friend, who 
had just left the room : " There is nothing, my dear son, 
that grieves me more, than to hear such complaints; not 
because, far from flattering me, they only remind me the 
more forcibly of my defects, but because they evince a 
deplorable want of knowledge of, and confidence in, the 
dealings of God with His Church and servants. He 
wants none of us ; but if He is pleased to use us, surely 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 23 

He knows best, when to put down one tool and take up 
another. And will He suiTer any part of his work to 
stand still, for want of instruments to work with? No! 
He will find such as are suited to His hand, and to the 
times and circumstances, when they are to be employed." 
This is indeed true, but I yet believe, that the concur- 
rent testimony of all who knew my late father, will per- 
mit me to say, that, taking his character in a general 
sense, and viewing him as a man and as a christian, we 
shall not soon look on his like again. 

To-day there was a considerable swell from the south- 
west, which is as regularly met with in these seas, as the 
north-west swell in the northern hemisphere. Some 
slight squalls passed by on each side of us, and a water- 
spout was seen in the west. 

30th. We were agreeably roused from sleep before 
four in the morning by news, that a large ship was ap- 
proaching. A general scramble ensued, to prepare par- 
cels of letters to be sent to England. On hailing, she 
proved to be the Sydney Cove from Rio de la Plata, 
bound to Liverpool. Our captain immediately went on 
board and staid some time. Meanwhile the two vessels 
got pretty close together. On his return, he brought a 
present of half a sheep just killed, but could get no fruit. 
The Sjdney Cove had encountered a very heavy gale 
from the eastward twenty days ago, while we were in 
smooth water. Her captain was glad to rectify his 
reckoning by the calculations made by our chronometer, 
from which his log differed widely. The morning was 
beautiful, and the sun rose majestically from the bosom 
of the ocean. 

I read to-day a pamphlet entitled " The Spirit of Bri- 
tish Missions." It is a compilation of various accounts 
of all the existing missionary societies, with addresses 
and exhortations, showing great earnestness and zeal in 
the cause. With much candour and liberality the author 
brings into notice the labours of every missionary society 
now existing in Britain. 

December 1st. We have now been tvi^o months at sea, 
and some of us began to look with eagerness to the con- 
clusion of our voyage. But we have no cause for com- 



24 JOURNAL OP A 

plaint. Rather ought we to be very thankful to Him, 
whom wind and waves obey, that our voyage has been 
attended with no disaster whatever; and though some- 
times annoyed by calms, we have seldom met with con- 
trary winds, or any thing like a storm. Ever since we 
entered the south-east trades, the sails have nearly stood 
in the same position ; and by many favourable shifts of 
wind, we have been able to get better to the eastward 
than is usually done in these latitudes. 

3d. Being Advent Sunday, we used the Liturgy ap- 
pointed for the day, and the discourse delivered by bro- 
ther Clemens was suitable and impressive. To-day, a 
species of that curious animal, called by some the Portu- 
guese man of war, was thrown by a wave into the mizen 
chains, and brought on deck for our inspection. It seem- 
ed to be a young one, its body only three inches long, 
and shaped like that of a snail, quite transparent, of a 
light cerulean blue, passing into green towards the head, 
which had a kind of crest like a fan, also transparent 
and tinged with purple at the top. A number of an- 
tennae of a deep blue colour proceeded from the body, 
and a tail, from three to four feet long, looking like a 
string of small blue beads. On examining it more nar- 
rowly, Mr. Buck happening to prick its body with the 
sharp point of a penknife, it instantly shrunk together, 
and almost vanished, nothing but a small pulpy substance 
remaining. In the evening, there was much distant 
lightning towards the west. 

4th. Having, during a sleepless night, been led into 
much reflection on different subjects, with which, during 
the last thirty years of my life, I have more or less been 
occupied, I determined to avail myself of my present 
leisure, to make some memorandums in ''^ Letters to my 
children^^^ whose affectionate and dutiful behaviour has 
ever been a subject of my thanksgiving to God. The 
execution of this project occupied me for some time, and 
proved a new and powerful remedy against languid 
feeling and impatience. These memorials relate to the 
origin, — 1st. Of my acquaintance with some of the most 
worthy men of the present age. 2d. Of the abolition of 
the slave-trade. 3d. Of the peculiar interest I feel in 



VI3IT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 25 

missionary exertions. 4th. The views I have of the re- 
ligious influence of music. 5th. An account of several 
events, which call for gratitude to God for preservation, 
and tor other mercies, shown to mjself and family, &c. 
Vt these letters I finished five, befbre we reached the 
Cape. 

5th. The black cook having been more conceited than 
successful m baking wheaten bread, Brother Thomsen 
oliered his services, with Mr. Buck, for his assistant. 
1 hey commenced their operations this morning, and after 
some experiments, produced very good rolls for break- 
last. 1 he cook's darkened visage displayed indeed some 
uneasiness at being thus superseded, and his oven used 
by amateurs in the profession; but we all experienced 
the benefit of it, relishing what we knew had been pre- 
pared with clean hands. My appetite also was thereby 
much improved, and I believe, that the loss of it, and 
consequent decrease of strength, would at length have 
proved hurtful to my general health, and perhaps lower- 
ed my spirits, which were never more lively and active, 
had not this change of food afforded a seasonable relief. 
On this and the following days, we had strong, favoura- 
ble wind, and the ship went steadily through the water. 
We were now visited by various kinds of water-fowl* 
Cape pigeons, mother Carey's chickens, and several birds 
with long beaks, unknown to us. Porpoises a/so played 
about us; but, in general, we have lately appeared as 
if we were quite alone swimming in this vast ocean, not 
a creature approaching us. Our ship being new-copper- 
ed, the captain supposed, that the brightness of its bot- 
tom might alarm the finny inhabitants of the deep. 

10th. The wind increased in strength, but remained 
in our favour. For the first time we had long-continued 
rain, which kept us all shut up in the cabin. We spent 
the time in reading letters from Greenland, received 
shortly before my departure from England. I sent my 
answers from Capetown, and they arrived safe, by way 
of Copenhagen, in Greenland, in the spring of 1816. 
None, indeed, of the many letters I wrote on board, and 
sent by various ships, and from the Cape, were lost, but 
all arrived sooner or later at the places of their destina- 

4 



26 JOURNAL OF A 

tion, in Greenland, Labrador, North America, the West 
Indies, Surinam, Sarepta near Astrachan, Germany, 
Denmark, and England ; which shows a facility of com- 
munication over all the world, unknown to former gene- 
rations, as the fruit of a widely extended and well ar- 
ranged commercial intercourse among civilized nations. 

12th. To-day I read the first book of Esdras in the 
Apocrypha. I was much struck with many passages in 
it, relating to the coming of the Messiah, and the New 
Testament dispensation, and particularly with the 5th 
chapter, verse 40th. The weather was showery ; some 
seaweed floated by, and the people thought, that they 
had heard the report of a gun to the southward. But 
we remained alone, driven by a brisk southerly wind, 
rather too much to the east, a current from the south 
setting against us. We were to-day in latitude 34^ 23\ 
and the air in this southern hemisphere is much colder, 
than in the same degree and season in the northern : 
we were even glad to be on deck, to warm ourselves by 
the sun. 

14rh. A small species of cat-fish was thrown onboard 
by a wave. Its appearance is singular. Its head in a 
bag^ with two large eyes, but without any thing deserv- 
ing the name of a body. Eight long tails or antennee 
proceed from the back of the head, two longer than the 
rest, and furnished with claws. All of them are orna- 
mented with pearls or beads on the edges. The whole 
fish was about six inches long. The cold was to-day ve- 
ry troublesome, and on account of the strong current 
from the south, and the state of the wind, we tacked, 
and stood towards the south, fearing to make the land 
too far to the northward. 

15th. The captain, Mr. Buck, and two of the mission- 
aries, went out in the jolly boat, when Mr. Buck shot two 
albatrosses. This is a magnificent bird. The wings ex- 
tend to above eight feet, when spread. Its beak is about 
five inches long, hooked, and tipped with red, an orange- 
coloured line running along the upper edge. Its fore- 
he?.d broad, and, like the breast and belly, of the purest 
white, covered with the most beautiful, soft, downy plu- 
mage. Its webbed feet are white, and its wings black 



visit to SOUTH AFRICA, 27 

and gr^y, and furnished with three joints. The first 
turns the wing, when at rest, towards the tail, the second 
back to the breast, and the third again towards the taih 
The tail is short in proportion to the size of the bird. 
Those shot were both ducks, and we supposed a much 
larger bird of the same kind, with a white back, which 
flew about the ship, but could not be shot, to be the 
drake. A smaller bird, called by some the Cape pigeon, 
came on board, and was killed. This pretty creature 
had a pointed bill, black, and about an inch and a half 
long; its crown black; its back, and the top of its wings, 
of a blueish gray ; its feet webbed, but furnished with 
long sharp claws, like a land-bird ; its belly and throat 
snow-white. The whole bird about a foot long from the 
head to the tip of the tail, which is forked and fan-sha- 
J)ed. 

About noon, and for several hours, the heavens being 
remarkably clear and cloudless, but the air filled with a 
reddish haze, the sun was surrounded by a very large 
perihelion, in appearance about ten diameters from its 
orb : towards the east, its brightness was so great, that 
it faintly showed prismatic colours. The captain obser- 
ved, that he had never seen a similar phenomenon : but 
I remember, when I was in Germany, during a remarka- 
bly cold winter, that, on a bright day, Fahrenheit's ther- 
mometer being at 28^ below 0. a similar exhibition was 
seen. A bright circle surrounded the sun, other circles 
passing through its centre, and intersecting the former* 
Where the intersections took place, very bright spots ap- 
peared, called mock-suns. This evening, the clouds in 
the west were beautifully tinged with brown, but seem- 
ed at variance both with each other, and with the wind : 
the sky had appeared thus for some days, the clouds ta- 
king a course in our favour, while the wind remained 
contrary. We hoped, therefore, for a favourable change ; 
nor were we disappointed. 

16th. The air and water seemed filled with all kinds 
of birds, flying or swimming. The albatrosses were the 
most interesting. They seem to rise heavily from the 
water, and for some time keep flying not far from its sur- 
face. By degrees they mount up, and soar to a great 



28 JOURNAL OF A 

height, where they hover hke a kite, wheehng about^ 
and approaching without much fear towards the ship, 
little aware of the preparations making for their destruc- 
tion ; or rather bidding defiance to our marksmen, who 
with all their exertions could never hit, nor even frighten, 
any one of them. I protested against firing at inoft'ensive 
creatures, without any prospect of profiting by their 
death ; for as the boat had been painted, and could not 
be used to fetch them out of the water, if shot, the cru- 
elty of wounding or killing them, merely to show skill in 
shooting, was manifest. I grant, that for the purpose of 
obtaining food, or even for examination of any unknown 
animalj one may kill without offence; but if that cannot 
be done, we have no right to take away life. My ex- 
hortations were at first disregarded, and my arguments 
pronounced overstrained ; but by degrees, aided by the 
total failure of the sport, they availed, to the preserva- 
tion of many of our winged visiters, who indeed deserv- 
ed to be spared, if only for the entertainment they afford- 
ed us. Cape pigeons now and then alighted upon the 
sternsail booms, or on the bowsprit, for rest; but if one 
had gained a seat, it would not suffer another to sit 
down beside it, but in that case chattered and quar- 
relled, and at length fought, till either himself or his 
neighbour was forced off. Their look and habits seem 
like those of a land-bird, but we saw one arrive with a 
small fish in its bill. Their figure is remarkably neat : 
when they fly, they contract or spread their fan-shaped 
tails, and when sitting, cross the ends of their long wings 
over their tails, so as to give them the appearance of be- 
ing doubly forked. Bottle-nosed porpoises, also, of va- 
rious sizes, played often about the ship; and a shark 
was seen scudding along, on some murderous errand. 

20th. Towards evening the sky looked threatening- 
in the west : and after sunset, it began to blow hard, and 
the sea was magnificently restless. The waves frequent- 
ly heat over our bows, and we had little rest during the 
night, on account of the ship's motion and the roaring of 
the sea, which we had never heard before to that de- 
gree. About midnight, a tremendous sea broke over 
our stern, with a rattling noise ; but after so long a voy- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 29 

age, we were no more so much affected by these alarms; 
and knowing that the wind was in our favour, felt rather 
thankful for the speed, with which we ran through the 
water, at the rate of eight knots and a half an hour. 

21st. Being St. Thomas's day, we sung the usual 
Liturgy appointed for that day in our Church, and were 
led into much useful meditation on that most remarka- 
ble account given by the Evangelist of our Saviour's ap- 
pearing to His unbeHeving disciple, when, by beholding 
the marks of the wounds in His hands, feet, and side, 
proving Him to be verily the same Jesus, who was cru- 
cified, dead and buried, but now risen again, a convic- 
tion was wrought in his heart, that He was his Lord and 
God. From this event, those who go forth to preach 
the Gospel, may learn a most important lesson. 

22d. The wind had turned against us in the night, and 
cast a damp upon the sanguine hopes of some of our par- 
ty, that we should soon see the Table-Mountain. The 
sea appeared wild, and during the afternoon had chang- 
ed its colour. A sailor was sent to the mast-head to look 
for land, but the foggy appearance of the horizon pre- 
vented his seeing it. By the captain's reckoning, we 
were only forty-five miles off. At ten at night, the wa- 
ter had a singular appearance. It looked muddy and 
white, and was plentifully bestrewed with sparks. The 
waves, whose foaming had appeared extremely bright, 
had subsided, and the captain felt some alarm. We 
hove to ; but, on sounding, no bottom was found with a 
line of one hundred and fifty fathoms. We therefore 
kept under an easy sail all night. 

23d. The wind turned against us, and the sea became 
restless. All at once, the second mate, who had taken 
his station in the main-top, roused us from our dulness, 
by calling out '^ Land !" He discovered it among light 
clouds to the south-east. It was the Table-Mountain, 
and some of the adjoining hills. The captain being call- 
ed up, expressed his disappointment, on finding it lying 
in that direction. As the wind changed a point or two 
in our favour, we got on slowly towards it, and hoped 
soon to reach Table-Bay, when suddenly it fell calm, 
and the rolling of the ship became troublesome. Mean- 



30 JOURNAL OF A 

while, as the weather cleared up, leaving only some white 
clouds on the Table-Mountain and the DevilVHlil, we 
were exceedingly delighted with the view before us. 
Besides the magnificent group of rocky mountains to 
which the Table-Mountain belongs, there appeared, 
farther inland, a very picturesque range, of singular 
shapes, some with rocky peaks, others flattened like Ta- 
ble-Mountain. We spent the afternoon at the mercy of 
the waves, anxiously waiting for a wind. 

24th. There was somethmg rather distressing in our 
present situation. We were at the entrance of the bay, 
but in danger of being again driven out to sea ; which is 
not uncommon off the Cape. The captain, to our sor- 
row, had hurt his head so much, that for some hours he 
was quite disabled. Meanwhile, advantage having been 
taken of every short puff of wind to get in closer, we 
found ourselves in the morning of the 24th near Robben 
Island, in the neighbourhood of which rocks are nume- 
rous and dangerous. A current setting towards them, 
the want of wind made our entrance from the north-west 
rather hazardous, and we waited anxiously for the sea 
breeze. The sky was perfectly clear, and the sun rose 
with great majesty, behind the Stellenbosch mountains. 
About eight, a gentle breeze sprung up, and we sailed 
forward. A grampus followed us, and numerous large 
gulls, with white bodies, and black wings, tipped with 
white edgings, hovered about the ship, as we entered 
the bay. 

Table-Bay is surrounded by very picturesque scenery, 
upon which the eye may feast for a long time without 
weariness. We therefore did not regret the slowness, 
with which we approached the anchoring-place, off the 
town. Capetown presents itself pleasantly situated at 
the foot of the Table-Mountain. The whiteness of its 
buildings gives it a cheerful appearance; but the low 
tower of theCalvinist church, surmounted by a squat py- 
ramidal steeple, is its only prominent feature. As we 
moved slowly forward, we were boarded by the har- 
bour-master, who came to demand the mail-bags. The 
doctor accompanied him, to examine into the state of 
health of the crew and passengers. Before this has 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 31 

been done, no one is suffered to land. A pilot having 
brought the ship to an anchor, I went on shore, to in- 
quire about lodgings, and having met with a most cor- 
dial reception from our worthy friend Mrs. Disandt and 
her family, returned on board with her son Mr. Daniel 
Disandt, to bring the company on shore. 

We landed at the pier, and soon found ourselves com- 
fortably lodged at Mrs. Disandf s house, in the Graave 
Straat, not far from the church, thankful to God, that we 
had now reached the place of our destination, after so 
safe and prosperous a voyage. 



CHAPTER 11. 

Transactions on our arrival at Capetown. Journey to 
Gruenekloof. Bullock Wagons described. First meet^ 
ing with the Christiari Hottentots. Conclusion of the 
year 1815. 

December 24th. We had not been long on shore, before 
Mr. Henry Hancke, a friend of Mrs. Disandt's family, 
came to bid us welcome, and kindly offered to render us 
every assistance. From this gentleman I have received 
so many favours during the whole time of my abode at 
the Cape, that I should not discharge the debt of grati- 
tude I owe to him, did I not, immediately on introducing 
his name into my narrative, express my great obligations 
to him, as they regard both the mission and my own per- 
son. He had promised our late worthy friend, Mr. 
Disandt, shortly before his death, that he would not only 
befriend his family, and assist them with his advice, but 
endeavour to promote the interests of the Brethren's 
Mission among the heathen in this colony, to which Mr. 
Disandt had always approved himself a kind friend and 
benefactor. M|r. Hancke has in every respect fulfilled 
the wishes of his dying friend wnth exemplary faithful- 
ness, and both the family and the mission have derived 
the most essential benefit from his active services. To 
find such a friend on our arrival, added to the kind and 



32 JOURNAL OF A 

hospitable reception we met with from Mrs. Disandt and 
her children, made us soon forget the tediousness of a 
long vo) age, and feel ourselves quite at home in her 
house. 

The first conversation I had with Mr. Hancke upon 
the general concerns of our mission at Gruenekloof, con- 
siderably relieved my mind, and I perceived, that, by 
the gracious providence of God, things were in such a 
state of preparation, that my transactions with his Excel- 
lency, the Governor, and with the colonial Secretaries, 
would be rendered much more easy, than I expected. 
As they have no relation to the journey and the general 
state of the Mission, they will, of course, form no part 
of this narrative. 

After dinner, Mr. Hancke proposed a walk, to see the 
town. Passing through several streets, we entered the 
Governor's, late the Company's, gardens, which afford 
to the inhabitants a pleasant promenade. The avenues 
are planted with oak of luxuriant foliage, skirted on 
each side by hedges of myrtle. The ground is laid out 
in squares, enclosed between high hedges. Within a 
stone fence, several ostriches and other birds, and in a 
separate building, a lion, lioness, a tyger, and two or 
three more wild awimals were kept. Leaving the gar- 
dens, we walked to the foot of Table-Mountain. Alrea- 
dy before we landed, we had observed a white mist 
creeping up from the south, through the opening between 
the Devirs-Hill and the flat summit of Table-Mountain. 
This had now nearly covered the former, and was fast 
spreading along the rocky sides and summit of the latter, 
carrying with it a blast of wind, which in a short time 
grew so strong, that we could hardly stem its force. The 
change from the most clear, calm, and warm weather, 
to storm and fog, was almost instantaneous ; and before 
we could reach any kind of shelter, we were driven alono- 
by the gale, shivering with cold, and glad to make the 
best of our way towards home. The storm proved also 
a great annoyance to several groups of males and fe- 
males, chiefly slaves, and other people of colour, met on 
the common, carousing, playing, or dancing, as is usual 
here on Sundays and holidays. The variety of faces. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 3.1 

oomplexions, and dresses, seen among the common peo- 
ple, is very striking. The greater part are black or 
tawny. Not many genuine Hottentots, but various mix- 
tures between Hottentots and slaves or other natives of 
the Mozambique shore, Malays, and negroes, have here 
their residence, and are known by the general name of 
bastards. Many are Mahomedans; but there appears 
little religious animosity among them, every one doing 
what seemeth good in his own eyes. As to the Christian 
inhabitants, the English, Dutch Calvinists, and German 
Lutherans, possess the churches; the two former join- 
ing in the use of the great church. The latter have 
lately obtained permission to build one for themselves. 

The streets are laid out in right angles ; the houseg 
stuccoed, whitened, and chiefly consisting of two stories, 
though a few of them exceed that height. Their gene- 
ral appearance is neat and clean. As in the towns in 
Holland, and some parts of Germany, large carved 
door-cases, grotesque decorations of gable-ends, and 
huge gates, leading to small houses, are met with here 
and there ; but, in general, it may well pass for an Eng- 
lish town. 

I gave notice of our arrival to the Missionaries at 
Groenekloof, by the usual Sunday's post, forwarded by 
a dragoon. We were sorry to miss the celebration of 
Christmas-Eve, in one of our settlements. 

25th. Christmas-day. We attended divine service in 
the Lutheran church, of which the Rev. Mr. Hesse is 
minister. German hymns are sung, but the sermon is 
delivered in Low Dutch, a language, as yet, unintelligi* 
ble to us. 

The church is a handsome building, with three aisles; 
the roofs supported by columns of the Ionic order; the 
galleries judiciously placed behind them. The organ is 
new, and of considerable magnitude. The church has 
no steeple, but a short pyramid is placed on the pedi- 
ment over the entrance. 

When the service was over, Mr. Hancke accompanied 
me to the house of Mr. Alexander, the colonial Secreta- 
ry. Here I delivered my letters of introduction, and af- 
terwards called on the President of the court of justice, 

5 



34 JOURNAL- OP A 

Mr. Trutter, aiid on the Fiscal, Mr. De Nyssen. Some 
missionaries from other societies paid us agreeable visits. 
With one of them 1 took a walk towards evening, and 
noticed several objects, new to me. The mountains 
were enveloped in clouds, but the sky otherwise clear. 
We passed by some vineyards. The vines grow with- 
out espaliers, placed in rows, like currant-bushes in 
our gardens. When arrived at a certain height, the 
upper shoots are taken off, to increase the quantity 
of grapes. Fences of the large aloe, and of cactus or 
Indian fig, are common. Of pisang, we saw several 
large beds. 

26th. In the forenoon, we had the great pleasure to see 
our missionary, Brother Schmitt and his wife arrive from 
Groenekloof, in a wagon, drawn by twelve bullocks. 
The unexpected information received of our arrival at 
the Cape, had made them take immediate steps to meet 
us. They had also provided wagons for our convey- 
ance to Groenekloof, where the Brethren Marsveld and 
Bonatz from Gnadenthal were soon expected. Mean- 
while, having occasion to call at a watchmaker's shop, we 
found him to be a lively old German, who entertained us 
with a narrative of his adventures. He gave us also an 
account of the dreadful plague of the small-pox, by which 
this colony was visited about four years ago, and a great 
number of people, of all ages and sexes, were carried off. 
He was one of those, who suffered most severely. Flags 
were hung out from the windows of those houses where 
the disorder raged, to mark them as pestiferous ; and 
thus for three months, he lived quite alone, in a dreadful 
state of mind and body, not expecting to survive. His 
friends placed victuals at the threshold of his door, but 
not even one of the family dared to approach or visit him 
in his affliction. " But,'' added he, " it was this affliction, 
that first taught me to know and fear God, and to con- 
sider the state of my immortal soul." 

27th. I waited on Mr. Stoll, the landdrost of the Cape 
district, in which Groenekloof lies, and was by him intro- 
d(]ced to Colonel Bird, deputy colonial Secretary, through 
whom permission must be obtained to remain in the colo- 
tiy, and to proceed into the country. He received me and 



VISIT to SOUTH AFRICA. 35 

the missionaries with great politeness. Having advised 
me to present my letters of recommendation to the Gover- 
nor with my own hands, Mr. Hancke was so obliging a^ 
to carry me to Newlands in his sociable. The road lies 
along the eastern side of Table-Mountain, which here pre- 
sents itself in shapes more picturesque and wild, than on 
the western, towards the town. The foot, both of the 
DevilVHill and Table-Mountain, is well clothed with 
witteboom, (protea argentea,) oak, and other trees, the 
verdure and foliage of which were in great perfection. 
To the left is the bay, and the low hills on its northern 
shore; but towards the north-east the magnificent range 
of mountains of Stellenbosch and Drakenstein form a no- 
ble horizon. Various singular plants adorn the hedges 
and banks on each side of the road, among which the 
huge bushes of Indian fig in full bloom ; the Chinese 
rose, growing to the height of sixteen or twenty feet; 
the aloe and pisang were particularly conspicuous. Ma- 
ny elegant houses, belonging to the citizens, with rich 
plantations surrounding them, lie along the foot of the 
mountains, precipices and grotesque rocks overhanging 
them in sullen majesty. We reached Newlands in about 
an hour, and found the Governor, Lord Charles Henry 
Somerset, at home. I presented to his Excellency the 
letters I had brought with me, and had a long conversa- 
tion with him on various subjects, in which he assured me 
of his favourable disposition towards our missionaries, 
^nd his approbation of their exertions for the improve- 
ment both of the temporal and spiritual state of the Hot- 
tentots and other heathen tribes in this colony, a-s lik - 
wise of his readiness to remove every obstacle that might 
impede the prosecution of their labours. 

28th. Having received an invitation from Mr. Schmidt, 
a gentleman possessing a farm in the kloof between the 
LionVHead and Table-Mountain, our whole party walk- 
ed to his house to breakfast. It lies about three English 
miles from the town. Passing through the yard of Mr. 
Zorn, formerly landdrost of the Cape district, we observ- 
ed a tame mongrose, or mausehund, from Java, a species 
of viverra, which ran about, and suffered itself to be 
handled. It was a beautiful creature, about a foot long. 



^36 JOURNAL OF A 

with a sharp snout, from which the body rises, richly clo-* 
thed with fine long hair, to about four inches in height, 
sloping off again to the end of the tail. Its colour was 
dark oHve. When frightened or injured, it uttered a 
quick, jabbering noise. In its wild state, this creature is 
a most destructive depredator among all kinds of poultry, 
Mr. Schmidt's farm lies in a very romantic situation. 
It is built upon a mass of rock of coarse granite, contain- 
ing large chrystals of feldspath, apparently in a state of 
slow decomposition. To the left of the house is the bed 
of a torrent, passing through a deep ravine. After cross- 
ing it by a stone arch, the path leads to some huge 
blocks of granite, which form altogether a singular mass 
of rock, overspread by oaks and other trees and shrubs, 
affording shade to the cattle. The grounds are filled 
with all kinds of fruit-trees and useful plants, every one 
of which seems to grow luxuriantly. Peach and orange 
orchards, and beds of pisang and bamboos occupy the 
slope of the hill. — After some time spent with this hospi- 
table family, we returned, calling again at Mr. Zorn's 
house by the way. It is a good J)utch building, delight- 
fuily situated among shady groves of various trees. The 
garden abounds with a vast variety of large flowering- 
shrubs and plants. The portico or gallery running along 
the whole front of the building, has an espalier roof en- 
tirely covered with vines, the grapes hanging down in 
great profusion and beauty. An aviary contains some 
curious birds, both from Africa and the East Indies. Mr. 
Zorn was not at home : but we were hospitably received 
by Mr. Cloete, his son-in-law. Walking down the hill, the 
town presents itself very pleasantly, its streets crossing 
each other at right angles, with Table-Bay and the hilly 
country in the back-ground ; but the want of towers and 
other prominent features detracts from its beauty. On 
the road, we noticed some large spiders, red locusts, and 
grasshoppers, peculiar to the Cape. My time at home 
was taken up with visiting both the friends of the Mis- 
sion and some gentlemen in the public offices. Mr. 
Hancke also made me acquainted with Mr. Melville, 
Surveyor to the Government, with whom my readers 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 37 

will become yet better acquainted in the course of this 
narrative. 

29th. Finding that waiting for the landing of the 
whole of our baggage, would detain us too long at Cape- 
town, the Christmas holidays having intervened and 
caused delay at the Custom-house, we determined to pro- 
ceed to Groenekloof this afternoon. 

Mrs. Disandt's children brought me a cameleon, or, 
as the Dutch call it, a trapsoetjes, signifying an animal, 
thq^t walks cautiously. It is in shape and size like a 
common lizard, but with a proportion ably larger he^d, 
and longer tail, which it coils downwards. Its eyes are 
situated in prominent tubes, easily moved to and fro, up 
or down, towards any object before or behind, together 
or separately, in different directions. Its general colour 
is green and orange, but it changes with the place it oc- 
cupies among trees, grass, or stones. It has two toes on 
each foot, with which it clasps the small branches of the 
shrub or tree on which it may sit, drawing itself slowly 
along, or climbing from one to another. The whole crea- 
ture is covered with small protuberances, of various hues. 

About four o'clock P. M. we left Capetown, accompa- 
nied by the best wishes of our worthy and generous 
friends. Our caravan consisted of four wagons. The 
first, drawn by twelve, and the second, by fourteen bul- 
locks, were occupied by our own party. In the third, 
which was uncovered and drawn by sixteen, a young En- 
glishman, travelling our way, was allowed to have a 
seat. That, and the fourth, with fourteen bullocks, 
were appropriated for baggage and stores, destined for 
Groenekloof and its neighbourhood. 

The wagons in use at the Cape have a strong frame- 
work body, with wheels and axle-trees made of iron- 
wood, or other wood, equally hard and tough. A travel- 
ling-wagon is furnished with seats, suspended by leather 
straps, to give them play, which, in some respects, 
answers the purpose of springs, and with a tilt of mat- 
ting, covered with sailcloth supported by hoops of bam- 
boo. Curtains, of sailcloth or leather, hang before and 
behind, to secure the company against wind and rain. 
The bullocks draw by a wooden yoke, consisting of a 



38 JOURNAL OF A 

strong bar laid across their necks, to which are fixed, in 
right angles downwards, four short pieces, so as to ad- 
mit the neck of each animal between two of them. These 
are kept in their places, by being tied together below 
the neck with a small thong. A strongly plaited lea- 
ther thong runs from the ring at the end of the pole to the 
yoke of the first pair of oxen, being fastened, in passing, 
to the middle rings of each yoke. The bullocks, by 
pushing with their shoulders, seem to draw with ease. 
The Hottentot driver has a whip, the stick of which 4s a 
strong bamboo, twelve and more feet long, and the lash, 
a plaited thong of equal or greater length. With this, 
to European grasp, unwieldy, instrument, he not only 
cracks very loud, but hits any one of his bullocks with 
the greatest surety. But the chief engine of his govern- 
ment is his tongue, and he continually calls to his cattle 
by their names, directing them to the right or left by the 
addition of the exclamations of hott and haar, occasion-al- 
ly enforcing obedience to his commands by a lash, or by 
whisking or cracking his whip over their heads. A 
toy leads the foremost oxen by a thong fastened about 
their horns, and they seem to follow him willingly. We 
^ere accompanied a short way by our friends, Mr. 
Hancke and Mr. Daniel Disandt. The weather was 
clear, and the view of the mountains delightful. 

The English have made good roads in the immediate 
neighbourhood of Capetown, and to Simon's Bay; but 
we soon left them, and dragged through deep sand, al- 
most the whole way to Groenekloof No trees, and but 
few shrubs, adorn the waste, but we noticed many pret- 
ty species of heath, and some elegant flowers, unknown 
to us. The most common plant is the so-called Hotten- 
tot fig. From beneath the sand is protruded, most of 
the way to the drift or fording-place of the Salt river, a 
porous iron-stone of singular character, appearing here 
and there perforated, like a honeycomb, or a number of 
nuclei, cleaving together, the cavities filled with ochre. 
This iron-stone is found almost in every part of the colo- 
ny, both in the Cape district, and beyond the great 
ridges of mountains, in a variety of forms, in pebbles, 
large lumps, scattered about among the sand, or in veins. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 39 

About sunset, we reached the large salt pans near the 
Riet Valley, so called from the quantity of reed-rushes 
growing in it. The people in the adjoining farm very 
civilly sent to invite us to the house j but we excused 
ourselves, wishing yet to proceed farther, before we 
took up our night's lodging in the wilderness. In about 
an hours time, we unyoked the bullocks and left them to 
seek their supper among the bushes. This is always 
done, if possible, at a place where there is a stream or 
pool of fresh water. The Hottentots having Ughted a 
fire, a mat was spread on the ground to leeward of a 
large bush of the poison-apple^ which screened us from 
a sharp south-east wind, black clouds on the horizon 
threatening us with a stormy, and perhaps rainy night. 
Coffee was boiled; of which, with some eggs, cold meat, 
cakes, and milk, we made an excellent supper, sitting 
round the fire. After our repast, we retired into the 
wagon to rest. The fire going out, and no preparation 
for our departure being made, Brother Schmitt, on in- 
quiry, found, that eleven oxen were missing, for which 
the Hottentots had been searching in vain. To point 
out to the latter the place of our encampment, as well as 
to guard against the cold in this dark night, some of us 
rekindled the fire, keeping up a constant blaze, by feed- 
ing it with rhinoceros bushes, a resinous plant with large 
roots, but easily pulled up. After some hours, all 
hopes of finding the lost cattle having vanished, a differ- 
ent arrangement was made, and we proceeded with two 
wagons, leaving the other two to follow us. 

30th. We passed by a farm on the Blauberg, belong- 
ing to a Mr. Kotzee, and about sunrise reached a place 
called Trefonteyn, an appendage to a farm, belonging to 
a Mr. Kous. Here we made another halt, and break- 
fasted under a thicket, consisting of different kinds of 
brush-wood and flowering shrubs. Into this cover, we 
saw a snake hastening with a young frog, entangled in 
its coils, but its swiftness was such, that all our exertions 
to destroy it only rescued the wretched captive. We 
now travelled through a barren, sandy heath, but the 
weather having cleared up, the sight of the hills about 
Groenekloof afforded us much pleasure, and brother 



40 JOURNAL OF A 

Schmitt pointed out the spot, where, some years ago, he 
narrowly escaped death, in a rencontre with a tyger. 
Being about an hour's drive from the settlement, we dis- 
cerned at some distance a group of Hottentots, men, wo- 
men and children, who had come out to meet us, with 
the missionary, Brother Fritsch, standing on a small ri- 
sing ground near the road. As soon as the wagons had 
reached the spot, we alighted, and were welcomed by 
the Hottentots, who joined in singing that hymn, " JYow 
let us praise the Ltord^''^ &c. 

To describe our feelings on this occasion is not in the 
power of words. The various subjects for reflection, 
which rushed upon my mind at once, on seeing this com- 
pany, lately a scattered race of wretched, ignorant, and 
wicked heathen, but now brought together as a people 
of God, among whom His word dwells daily and richly, 
made me inwardly exclaim : " Where is the wisdom of 
the wise ! where is the disputer of this world !" and 
the visionary theorist! Here is proof by facts, that " the 
Word of the Cross is the power of God unto salvation 
to all them that believe," Here is seen the effect pro- 
duced by the preaching of the gospel of a crucified Sa- 
viour, unadorned and unaided by human eloquence ! I 
was greatly affected, beyond the power of utterance, and 
we all stood in silent devotion, listening to the sweet voi- 
ces, which formed the delightful chorus. We shook 
hands with all of them, old and young, while, in the most 
affectionate and humble manner, they expressed their 
joy at our arrival. The whole procession now moved 
forward, some of the Hottentot women in an open bul- 
lock-wagon, which they had brought with them; the 
rest, with the men, partly on horseback and partly on 
foot. The settlement is seen like a fruitful field in the 
midst of a desert, and the road to the missionaries' hou- 
ses lies through a small poplar wood. About five P. 
M. we arrived at the dwelling-house, and met with a 
most cordial welcome from aiMther party of Hottentots, 
who had assembled at the door, and expressed their 
gratitude, that God had again sent teachers to them, by 
singing several verses, and by unaffected declarations of 
their joy* 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 41 

After dinner, some of us walked out to see the settle- 
ment, entered some cottages, and found every where 
friendly faces and a kind reception. In the usual even- 
ing-meeting, Brother Fritsch addressed the congrega- 
tion on the mercy of God, in granting, from time to time, 
a supply of ministers and teachers, who were willing to 
devote themselves to the work of God among the hea- 
then, and especially among the Hottentots; and in 
prayer commended those who had just now arrived, to 
the guidance of His Holy Spirit, in all their future la- 
bours; praising Him for having brought them safely to 
this place. I then delivered a salutation from the Socie- 
ty for the Furtherance of the Gospel, and all our congre- 
gations in England, to the congregation of Christian Hot- 
tentots at Groenekloof. Brother Clemens did the same 
from the Elder's Conference of the Unity,'^ and the 
congregations in Germany. The Hottentots, of whom 
about a hundred and fifty were present, answered by 
loud thanksgivings. On quitting the chapel, several 
came to shake hands WMth us, saying, that they were not 
worthy that we should come so far to serve them. 

31st. After the forenoon's service, a Hottentot accost- 
ed me, desiring to speak with me alone. As I could not 
understand him, I requested Brother Schmitt to be pre- 
sent. The poor man came to make confession of his 
having been seduced by an old companion at Capetown, 
to drink more 'than he ought to have done ; that he had 
thus overslept himself behind a bush, at the place where 
we spent the first part of the night, and suffered the cat- 
tle to go astray; and that he now came to ask forgive- 
ness. Though his situation at that time was not ob- 
served by us, yet it had given offence to the Hottentots; 
and we represented to him, that he had not only hurt his 
own soul, but brought disgrace upon the cause of tlie 
gospel : that therefore it was necessary, for the present, 
to exclude him from the meetings of the baptized ; to 
which sentence. Brother Schmitt added some serious 

'* The Committee or Board of Bishops and Elders of the Church of 
the United Brethren, appointed by the General Synods for the su- 
perintendence and management of the affair^ of the Church from one 
Synod to another. (See Crantz's History of the Brethren.) 



42 JOURNAL OF A 

and fatherly admonitions. His tears showed the grief 
he felt, and, as we hoped, his true repentance. This 
was the first instance 1 saw of that great change wrought 
in the heart of a heathen, who in his former state, 
thought drunkenness no sin, but now mourned over his 
being again overtaken, and seduced to the commission 
of the crime. 

In the afternoon, all the missionaries met in confer- 
ence, with a view to the conclusion of the year, and 
offered up prayer and praise to God our Saviour for all 
His mercies vouchsafed to them as a family, during the 
year past. In the evening, we walked into the settle- 
ment, and entered several houses and huts. In one we 
conversed with a venerable old man, upwards of eighty, 
who had descendants in the fifth generation. The con- 
clusion of the year was made at twelve o'clock at night, 
in the manner usual in all our congregations, and we felt 
ourselves truly united in s[)irit with all, who here and in 
every place call upon the name of the Lord, and consti- 
tute altogether the family of God on earth, however 
distinguished by names, forms, and customs. 



CHAPTER III. 

Account of Groenelcloof. Burial-ground^ and part of the 
Settlement^ described. Conversation with the Hottentots. 
Arrival of missionaries from Gnadenthal. Father Mars- 
veld. Conferences, Captain Klapmus, Order of Bap- 
tism. Journey to Capetown. Mr. Polemaii^s description 
of a Cave in Kancro. Visit at JVewlands. Mountains 
of Sfellenbosch. Farms and Vineyards. Hottentot HoU 
land'^ S'Kloof. Journey to Gtiadenthal. Arrival. 

Groenekloof is the name given to a district, situated 
about thirty miles to the north of Table-Bay, comprising 
several large farms. That, now occupied by the mis- 
sionaries of the United Brethren, which is more particu- 
larly called Groenekloof, was formerly known by the 
name of De Kleene Post, (The Little Post.) The house 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 43 

and premises were originally in possession of the Dutch 
Company, but latterly let to a farmer. After the expira- 
tion of his lease, in 1808, the Earl of Caledon, then 
Governor of the Cape, having observed the benefits 
arising to the Hottentot nation from Christian instruc- 
tion, prevailed upon the Brethren's missionaries at Gna- 
denthal, to form a settlement at this place, where many 
fa vihties existed for the maintenance of a congregation 
ol l^hnstian Hottentots. The Government at home hav- 
ing confirmed the grants the Brethren were put in pos- 
session, and a number of Hottentots soon flocked to them 
from various places, both in and out of the colony. 

The tract of land, given to the Mission, comprehends 
Groenekloof proper, with Lauweskloof andCruywagens- 
Kraal, two Hottentot stations. At the former, a Hot- 
tentot captain, with about a hundred persons of that 
nation, resided, previous to the establishment of the 
Mission. At the end of the year 1815, the number of 
inhabitants in the settlement at Groenekloof amounted 
to three hundred, old and young. 

January 1, 1816. I took a walk to see the burial- 
ground, lying on the hill, north of the dwellings. It is a 
square piece of ground divided into four equal compart- 
ments by gravel walks, and surrounded by a mound and 
ditch. On the mound is planted a fence of cactus or In- 
dian fig, which, when grown up, will be a strong barrier 
against the intrusion of cattle. About thirty graves are 
at present in the ground, placed, according to the cus- 
tom of onr Church, in regular rows. The graves of the 
Hottentots are not marked by grave-stones, but by an 
upright piece of wood at the head of each, with a num- 
ber painted on it, referring to the church-register, which 
shows the name and age of the person interred. From 
hence, the houses and huts of the Hottentots appear in 
the valley, the little wood separating them from the 
farm and missionaries' dweUings. The valley to the 
north and east is bounded by low bushy hills, on which 
lie several detached fragments of granite, of various 
shapes and sizes. A group of larger masses near the 
old stables forms a very picturesque assemblage of rock, 
interspersed with trees, stnd in many parts covered with 



44 JOURNAL OF A 

aloes, many of them at present in fall bloom. Except in 
very dry seasons, there is a little rivulet running at their 
foot towards the village. These stones and the cavities 
among them serve as a retreat for mausehunde or mon- 
gooses, muskiliat cats, and other destructive animals, as 
also for serpents, salamanders, lizards, mice, and moles. 
From the heights above the burial-ground, a pleasant 
view of Table-Mountain and its companions presents 
itself, and towards the east, part of the Stellenbosch 
range beyond the Dassenberg, and some low^er hills are 
visible. 

At ten o'clock, public service was held, as usual on 
New- Year's day. I counted one hundred and seventy 
Hottentots present. Brother Schmitt delivered a power- 
ful discourse on the name of Jesus. The attention of 
the auditory was such, that not one turned his eye off 
the preacher, but they all seemed as if they would eat his 
vrords. After the sermon, a child was baptized. I was 
much struck with the solemn manner^ in which the pa- 
rents are always previously asked, in presence of the 
v^^hole congregation, whether it is their intention to edu- 
cate the child, now to be baptized, in the fear and admo^ 
nition of the Lord, and to devote it from its infancy to 
Him alone, as His redeemed property. Their answer 
in the affirmative is generally given with an expression 
of great sincerity and earnestness. During the whole 
day, parties of Hottentots came to w^ish their Teachers a 
happy New-Year. Lehrer or Teachers is the name they 
generally give to the missionaries. 

In the evening, some of us went into the settlement, 
and visited several families. The cottages are of differ- 
ent dimensions, materials, and workmanship. Some of 
the inhabitants are building houses with stone walls, 
which by degrees will become more general. In one 
house, where the people were yery neatlv dressed, were 
we treated with a pie, usually baked by them for the 
New-Year. It tasted well, and they were much pleased 
to see ns partake of their humble meal. 

2d. The morning was spent in conversation concern- 
ing the affairs of the Mission. After dinner, I took a 
walk up the hill to the west pf the farm. It is a steep 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 45 

bank, covered in most places with shrubs and brush- 
wood. A deep gully divides it from the hill on which 
the burial-ground is situated, being the effect of torrents 
during the rainy season. The earth is every where co- 
loured by iron, and of a deep brown or yellowish hue. 
The pebbles, with which the surface is plentifully strew- 
ed, are chiefly iron-stone, though mixed with some small 
fragments of quartz of so hard a texture, that it strikes 
fire, and was mistaken for flint. The waste produces 
some beautiful plants, among which 1 particularly noti- 
ced the Fahlbar, a species of aloe, the leaves of which 
are round, of a pale blue colour, and spreading near the 
ground, the stalk about a foot long, and the flowers, 
which are bell-shaped, and of a deep scarlet, hanging 
down in clusters. They adorn the bank behind Brother 
Schmitt's garden. 

3d. Being a day appointed for the candidates for bap- 
tism to converse w^th the missionaries and receive their 
advice, I attended, and was much pleased with the unre- 
served manner in which they expressed their thoughts 
and the state of their minds. Whoever charges the 
Hottentots wnth being inferior to other people of the 
same class, as to education and the means of improve- 
ment, knows nothing about them. They are possessed 
of good sense and even of considerable gifts, in speaking 
on various subjects^ within the reach of their apprehen- 
sion. Some accompany their speech WMth gesticulations, 
which are natural and very unlike the grimaces of cer- 
tain Europeans. The manner of the missionaries in con- 
versing with, and instructing them, struck me as pecu- 
liarly calculated to call forth their confidence, as w^ell as 
to impress their minds with great seriousness. When / 
ventured to address the Hottentots, I felt myself a great 
w^ay behind these worthy men. 

While we were thus engaged, a letter announced the 
approach of the missionaries Marsveld and Bonatz from 
Gnadenthal, whose wagons were seen moving slowly 
across the waste from the Dassenberg. Men and women 
went out to meet them. It was to me an affecting sight 
to see, with what joy the Hottentots bid them welcome as 
they alighted at the door. They flocked round Father 



46 JOURNAL OF A 

Marsveld to express to him that love, esteem and grati- 
tude, which is so justly due to this venerable man, who, 
with his two younger associates, renewed the Cape mis- 
sion in 1792, and now, at the age of seventy -one, is yet 
full of life and activity in prosecuting this work of God. 
I could hardly press forward to add my expression of 
joy, on beholding at length the face of one, whose cha- 
racter I have so long known and revered. All rejoiced 
to see Brother Bonatz, who had been long absent from 
Groenekloof, return in safety. 

When the friendly bustle of bidding welcome was 
over, the people formed a semicircle in the yard, and 
sung a hymn of praise to God for having brought the 
travellers safe to their journey's end. All was yet new 
and highly interesting to me ; I felt delighted to see and 
converse with the Hottentots from Gnadenthal, and to 
be a witness of that truly christian union of heart, which 
produced the most sincere expression of friendship and 
brotherly love between them and those of Groenekloof. 
Even the sight of the Gnadenthal oxen added to my 
pleasure, as they were shortly to draw" us to that place. 

During the following days, we were engaged in con- 
ferences relating to the affairs of the Mission in this colo- 
ny, and made several arrangements. Brother Stein was 
appointed to remain as an assistant at Groenekloof, and 
the rest of the party to go to Gnadenthal. In my walks, 
I made daily some new discovery, and every portion of 
time was employed in becoming better acquainted with 
those subjects, which were, at present, to be the business 
of my life. God mereifally granted to me a continuance 
of health and spirits, nor did the heat affect me. 

4th. In the evening-meetings I was surprised to hear, 
with what lively zeal and strength of voice, Father 
Marsveld addressed the congregation. He observed, 
that as the time of his departure out of this world was 
drawing near, he rejoiced once more to see this congre- 
gation of Christian Hottentots, and to join them in prais- 
ing the Lord, for gathering a flock from among their na- 
tion, at this place, adding suitable exhortations and ad- 
monitions. The people could hardly restrain their desire 
of expressing their thanks, till he had finished his speech, 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 47 

when there was a general burst of thanksgiving from old 
and joung. 

6th. The festival of Epiphany was celebrated as usual, 
with much solemnity, being the commemoration of the 
first call of the heathen to their incarnate God and Sa- 
viour. The history of that event was read and explain- 
ed to the congregation, from the second chapter of St 
Matthew's gospel. After the public service in the after- 
noon, two catechumens were baptized. This was the 
first baptism of converts from among the heathen, at 
which I was present; and the whole transaction made an 
indehble impression on my mind. One of them, whom / 
baptized, was a daughter of the Hottentot captain Klap- 
mus, of Lauweskloof. Her father had formerly been a 
noted enemy of the missionaries. His daughter, at the 
commencement of the Mission at Groenekloof, joined in 
opposition to the missionaries with much bitterness ; but 
has since heard the gospel, and been convinced of the 
necessity of conversion. Though the old man persisted 
in his hostile disposition, he would not oppose his daugh- 
ter's wishes to be instructed in the doctrines of Chris- 
tianity, and even now declared his satisfaction at her 
being baptized. He was present, and afterwards visited 
the missionaries in their house ; by whom he was kindly 
received, and admonished not to put off the day of his 
conversion. He even shed tears at parting, and we 
hoped, that, in his case also, by the Lord's unlimited 
mercy, " where sin abounded, grace may yet much more 
abound." 

Having been requested to insert, in this narrative, 
some account of the internal course of the Missions of 
the Brethren among the heathen, as I wish to avoid pro- 
lixity, I will here, once for all, describe the order of 
baptism. 

After the public service on Sunday morning, the in- 
fants of baptized parents are brought by them into the 
-church ; the mother being generally churched at the 
same time. First, a short hymn is sung, and a discourse 
deHvered, addressed principally to the children, expla- 
natory of the nature and intent of this ordinance, and 
the sacredness of the covenant therein made between 



48 JOURNAL OF A 

the Lord and the person thus initiated into His Church 
on earth. After the discourse, the usual Hturgy is read, 
and the parents being interrogated, respecting their in- 
tention to educate their child in the fear and admonition 
of the Lord, as above described, (p. 44,) baptism is ad- 
ministered, in the manner usual in our European congre- 
gations, one or two of the missionaries and their wives 
generally standing sponsors. 

Adults are baptized in a public meeting on Sundays 
and festival days, in the afternoon. The candidates ap- 
pear decently dressed in white clothes. A hymn being 
sung, and a suitable discourse delivered, a vessel, cover- 
ed with a white cloth, containing the water, with a small 
basin or laver in it, is placed before the candidate. The 
liturgy, prescribed to be used at the baptism of adults 
from among the heathen, is then read; and the ques- 
tions, therein contained, being put to the candidates and 
answered, a prayer is offered up, after which the bap- 
tism takes place. The candidate kneeling and bending 
forward, the water is three times poured upon his head 
with the basin or laver, at the words " in the name of 
the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost," 
when, if there are more to be baptized, the vessel being 
removed from one to the other by the chapel-servant, 
the missionary proceeds to the next, assisted by other 
ordained Brethren, if a larger number require it. The 
whole congregation then kneeling down, a doxology is 
sung, and the service concluded, by pronouncing the 
blessing: after which the newly-baptized come to the 
missionaries into the vestry, and are exhorted to faith- 
fulness and constancy in the performance of their bap- 
tismal vow. They are likewise taught to know and 
pronounce the names given to them. Their gratitude 
and compunction of heart on these solemn occasions are 
generally expressed more by tears than words. 

7th. Old Captain Klapmus attended the morning- 
service, and seemed affected both by Father xMarsveld's 
sermon, and by the subsequent exhortations of the mis- 
sionaries whom he visited. 

Having, for the present, finished my engagements at 
Groenekloof, I resolved to accompany the missionaries 



VISIT TO SOUTH AF*RICA» 49 

ping to Gnadenthal, but as part of our baggage was 
left at the Cape, and some other business required my 
presence in the town, I availed mjself of the opportuni- 
ty of a wagon going to fetch the goods, and set out in 
company of Brother Bonatz about sunset. At midnight, 
we made halt at Trefontejn, and the wind being h.Vh 
and cold, had some trouble to get a fire lighted and cof- 
tee boded under a bush, where we spent about two 
hours, vyhile the oxen were feeding. The morning was 
fane, and I walked several miles. The Table-Mountain 
appears here so near, on the south side of the bay, that 
the hopes of soon reaching its foot made the iourney 
round the head of the baj appear rather tedious, espe- 
ciaJlj as the deep sand prevented much haste. 

8th. On our arrival at Mr. Disandt's house, I found a 
letter from his Excellency the Governor, with an invita- 
tion for me to come and spend some days with him at 
JNewIands. However, as a Dutch squadron had this 
morning arrived with troops, destined to take possession 
ol Java, and other islands, restored to the Dutch by the 
English, and I was aware of the Governor's attention to 
the Admiral and officers, I went to the colonial office to 
inquire of Colonel Bird, how his Excellency was en- 
gaged. Here I met, both with the Governor himself 
and With H. Alexander, Esq. first colonial Secretary. 
An interesting conversation ensued on various subjects 
connected with our missionary establishments in the 
colony, during which his Excellency displayed great 
candour and willingness to render every assistance and 
remove every existing obstacle. He insisted on my 
dinmg with him at Newlands, and Mr. Alexander took 
me out and home in his phaeton. I met there Mr. Trut- 
ter, President of the Court of Justice, and his lady. 

9th. Mr. Alexander, with whom we breakfasted, 
showed to Brother Bonatz and me his grounds, pointing 
out several particulars, in which the gardei» in our set- 
tlements might be improved. I returned to him to din-r 
ner, where I had the pleasure to meet several gentle- 
men whose conversation was in a great degree interest- 
ing and instructive ; Professor Reinward, going out with 
the Dutch fleet on a scientific tour to Java and other isl- 

2 



50 JOURNAL OF A 

ands ; Mr. Poleman, a medical gentleman of this town, 
of superior merit, whose acquaintance proved most 
agreeable and useful to me, during my stay at the 
Cape; Captain Hamilton, of the royal navy, an old ac- 
quaintance, who having accompanied Bonaparte to St. 
Helena, gave us a very interesting account of the voy- 
age. 

10th. Mr. Alexander having proposed to take me to 
Hottentot's Holland, and to show me some improvements, 
both on his own property and on some farms near Stel- 
lenbosch, which might be applied in our settlements. Bro- 
ther Bonatz resolved to return with the wagon to Groe- 
nekloof, and with his party to meet me at Hottentot Hol- 
land's Kloof. I spent part of the forenoon at the Secre- 
tary's office, where I had much previous conversation 
with Mr. Alexander respecting the extension of the Mis- 
sion in the interior, and perceived with gratitude the 
readiness shown to forward the undertaking as recom- 
mended by the Government at home, and to furnish me 
with every useful information. 

; To-day, I became acquainted with the Rev. Mr. Hesse, 
minister of the Lutheran church, a man universally and 
j deservedly respected, and found in him a true friend and 
adviser. With him and his family I spent much time 
most agreeably, whenever I visited Capetown. 

Calling on Mr. Poleman, he gave me an entertaining 
account of a journey he had made some time ago to a 
remarkable cavern in Kango, a part of the district of 
Zwellandam, from whence he had brought some very 
singular stalactites. It is, by his account, one of the lar- 
gest and most curious subterranean excavations in the 
known world, whose vast chambers and dark recesses 
have not yet been fully explored. The stalactites in 
some of its halls are from sixteen to twenty-four feet in 
height, forming majestic groups of columns, supporting, 
in appearance, immense domes. Mr. Poleman, whose 
ardour led him to venture into many passages and cavi- 
ties never yet visited, was in some places prevented from 
proceeding by huge dunghills made by imiumerable hosts 
of bats, which covered the walls and ceilings of the hor- 
rid dungeon. Contrast the life, which these leathern 



I 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 51 

winged animals are doomed to suffer, with that of the 
feathered tribes, sporting in the unbounded regions of 
the air above us, and one might almost be led, by com- 
parison, to form an idea of the difference between the 
states of condemned and happy spirits hereafter. I also 
visited Mr. Villette's collection of the natural curiosities 
of this country. He stuffs birds, and preserves serpents 
and insects remarkably well. 

11th. My intention to spend this day in writing and 
visiting some friends was frustrated, by Mr. Alexander's 
calling early to take me to Newlands to breakfast, at his 
Excellency's desire. As it appeared, that unreserved 
conversation with the Governor facihtated the business 
committed to me, I was glad of the opportunity to renew 
it; nor was I disappointed. After breakfast, we drove 
to Kerstenbosh, a country-house belonging to Mr. Alex- 
ander, at the foot of the rocky mountains south-west of 
Table-Hill. The country is wild, well wooded, and exhi- 
biting a rich profusion of curious shrubs and plants, some 
in flower. Rocks of singular shapes overhang the dark 
oak woods behind the house, and a cascade, issuing from 
the upper regions of these romantic hills, shoots down a 
dark glen. Among the woods and rocks wolves, jackals, 
and tygers, have a safe retreat. The soil is sandy, well 
watered, and consequently fruitful. The witteboom 
(silver-tree) grows here in abundance. After a short 
stay, we returned to town, passing through several new 
plantations of various kinds of trees, skirting the ascent 
towards the mountains, to the country-seat of the Honour- 
able General Meade, Deputy Governor of the colony. 
It is situated in the vineyards, and has extensive gardens,, 
in which some curious plants from Botany Bay and Chi- 
na, were cultivated with great care and success by the 
General, who is highly respected both in his military ca- 

Eacity, and as a man of great taste and science. His 
aving left the colony has caused universal regret. I 
spent the afternoon with the Reverend Mr. HessOv who 
showed me the church and premises belonging to the 
Lutheran congregation in this place. It is but of late 
years, that the Dutch would permit the Lutherans to 
have an establishment at the Cape. The spirit of tole- 



52 JOURNAL OF A 



ration, introduced with the English government, has now 
set them quite athberty; and it redounds much to their 
honour, that, though a small congregation, and not rich, 
thej have made a most comfortable provision for their 
minister, and spared no expense in erecting a handsome 
church and parsonage-house. Mr. Hesse's garden is 
filled with a great variety of singular plants, trees, and 
shrubs, the produce both of this, and other southern re- 
gions. In his botanical researches, which serve him as 
a relaxation from the laborious duties of his station, he is 
encouraged and assisted by the friendship and skill of his 
neighbour Mr. Poleman ; and it were much to be wish- 
ed, that men so eminently qualified, would favour the 
lovers of botany with the result of their discoveries in 
that delightful branch of natural history. 

12th. This morning 1 had some conversation with the 
Reverend Mr. M'Kenny, of the methodist community. 
He has been sent out to form a society of that persuasion 
at the Cape ; but meets with difficulties, as his commis- 
sion does not seem to be a mission to the heathen, but 
chiefly to regard the white settlers. The Governor is 
willing to promote every attempt to introduce Christian- 
ity among the heathen ; but to the multiplying of differ- 
ent religious sects at Capetown, many persons have great 
objections. 

At noon, I set out with Mr. Alexander and his lady 
for Stellenbosch. His travelling wagon was drawn by 
eight mules. The road to the half-way-house is through 
deep sands and a wild waste, but in most places covered 
with bushes and flowering shrubs, which though the 
summer was far advanced, still showed themselves with 
considerable splendour. The people at the house cook- 
ed some victuals, which we had brought with us, being 
themselves unprepared for visiters. The nearer we ap- 
proached the mountains, the more magnificent their rug- 
ged outline appeared, reminding me, both as to their 
height and general character, of the most picturesque 
part of the mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland. 
1 he descent into Stellenbosch is long and tedious, and 
wo did not reach the landdrost\s house till after sunset. 
Ihe landdrost, Mr. Van Rhyneveld was absent, but we 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 53 

met with a hospitable reception from the family. After 
tea, I accompanied Mr. Alexander to see some English 
friends. The moon shone bright, and the evening air 
was highly refreshing, after the heat of the day. 

l.ith. 1 rose early, and walked out into the village. 
Nothing can be more delightful than the shady avenues 
planted in every street, defending the inhabitants and 
their dwellings from the burning rays of the sun. The 
Erste Revier is a swift flowing torrent, issuing from a 
gien in the mountains above the town, and its bed a vast 
assemblage of large stones and pebbles, forming an em- 
bankment or beach on each side, showing what force and 
extent the river assumes, when swollen by heavy rains 
in the hills. I walked about for nearly two hours, and 
was much entertained by many surrounding objects, es- 
pecially by the grotesque shapes of several hills and 
rocks in the grand chain. Returning, I stepped into the 
church, a plain building, in form of a cross, with an enor- 
mous door. It is furnished with chairs for the congrega- 
tion, and a few pews for the men in office. An old or- 
gan adorns the west end. The landdrost's house is a 
handsome mansion, with spacious and well-furnished 
rooms. Some of the largest oaks I have seen in the 
colony overshadow its front. 

After breakfast, we proceeded to the house of a weal- 
thy farmer, Mr. Van der Byl, who showed us his vine- 
yards, wine-press, cellars, gardens, and other premises. 
The family received us with great hospitality. Our 
road lay through the waste, along the great ridge of 
mountains, and presented us with beautiful scenery, 
especially wherever a farm-house, with its gardens and 
groves, furnished a foreground to the landscape. The 
next farm we visited was Mr. Meyburg's. The house 
and premises are well built, and the situation more plea* 
sant than that we had just left. Our visit was but snort, 
and we now made the best of our way to Hottentot's 
Holland. After fording the Erste Revier, we passed 
through the charming plantations of a farm, belonging 
to a Mrs. Morkel, and crossing a dreary waste, arrived 
about four o'clock at Mr. Alexander's own farm. I was 
surprised to find here a Hottentot waiting for me. Bro- 



54 JOURNAL OF A 

ther Bonatz and the travelling party having arrived this 
morning at the foot of Hottentot-Holland's Kloof, spent 
the heat of the day at a miserable inn, intending, on my 
arrival, to pass over the kloof in the cool of the evening. 
I joined them immediately after dinner. Father Mars- 
veld and his wife had already set out on foot, and we 
follow^ed with three wagons. The pedestrians met a 
herd of ten or twelve baboons on the road. The coward- 
ly creatures betook themselves speedily to flight, and 
with astonishing dexerity and swiftness, scaled the steep, 
and to man, inaccessible cHffs, where they made a stand, 
till the cracks of the Hottentots' w^hips so frightened 
them, that they in an instant disappeared, but kept up a 
hideous yell for some time. 

This kloof is celebrated in the journals of our mis- 
sionaries for its difficult and steep ascent and the bad- 
ness of the road. My imagination therefore had pre- 
sented to me the picture of a formidable passage across 
these mountains, and I now found the accounts given by 
no means exaggerated. Twenty-four oxen having been 
sent from Gnadenthal to meet us, our complement had 
increased to fifty-four, and it was with difficulty, that 
even this number drew the loaded wagons up the rug- 
ged road. The lower part of the hill is richly covered 
with grass, flowering shrubs, and bushes, but the upper- 
region is a Avild, solitary, and vast assemblage of rocks, 
thrown together without any appearance of regular 
strata. 

After passing the summit, the descent is more gra- 
dual, and a fine full moon lighted us on our way to the 
first station, where we unyoked our oxen. We forded 
the Palmite river w^ithout difficulty, the water being low, 
and met five large wagons with fourteen oxen each, 
coming from the interior. 

After taking some refreshment and rest, we proceed- 
ed about midnight, and made halt again at four o'clock 
in the morning. Part of our cattle were not with the 
wagons, but driven loose as relays. Among these a 
wolf descended from the mountain, and was choosing 
his prey, when he was observed by one of the Hotten- 
tots, and frightened away by the cracks of the long 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 55 

whip. The wolf of the Cape is a solitary, cowardly 
animal, when not impelled by hunger. 

14th. We had now passed the great mountain called 
the Haue Hoek, and again halted on the Botte Revier, 
where we breakfasted. Most of the company then re- 
tired into the wagons to sleep ; but, always hoping to meet 
with some remarkable production of nature in this 
strange land, I walked along the banks of the river to- 
wards the hill. The country is dreary in the extreme. 
A solitary cottage attracted my attention, and making 
towards it, I overtook Sister Clemens examining the 
pebbles of various colours which cover part of the bank. 
They were fragments of sand-stone coloured by iron. 
We entered the cottage together, and found a friendly 
woman in it, with two slaves, and some black children. 
She informed us, that her relations lived on the other 
side, in two farm-houses. A slave-girl, who had been at 
Gnadenthal, offering to show us the way, conducted us 
across the river, over a rocky part of its bed, and 
through some vineyards and gardens, to the first house. 
Here an old Dutch farmer, with a gray beard of a week's 
growth, came out to meet us, but seemed not disposed to 
give us a friendly reception. At length, hearing that 
we came from the Cape, his curiosity to know, for what 
purpose a Dutch fleet had arrived in Table-Bay, made 
him ask us to sit down. Leaving his inhospitable dwel- 
ling, w^e walked on to the next farm, where our recep- 
tion was very different. The good-natured housewife 
even asked us to pluck the fruit of some mulberry-trees, 
standing before her door. On our return, we found the 
black slave-girl waiting for us at the fording-place. She 
presented Sister Clemens with a nosegay of wild flow- 
ers, and very carefully helped her across the stony bed 
of the river. 

When we again entered her mistress's hut, we were 
treated with some tea and goat's milk. Brother Lem- 
merz joining us, the family resolved to accompany us to 
the wagons to pay their respects to Brother Marsveld, 
whom they had seen at Gnadenthal. We found our 
venerable companion ready to receive them, and hope 
that they derived benefit from their meeting. After 



56 JOURNAL OF A 

some usual inquiries, he spoke most affectionately with 
the woman, her slaves and children, of the necessity of 
conversion, and that blessedness which is to be found in 
communion with the Lord Jesus. His address was 
heard with much attention, and drew tears from their 
eyes. It proved to us all a most edifying morning-ser- 
vice. 

The Hottentots and their cattle not being yet ready 
to proceed. Brother Lemmerz accompanied me on a se- 
cond walk down the river, till the steepness of its banks 
arrested our progress. The country has a most comfort- 
less appearance. To the south, lies a chain of hills, 
among which the Tower of Babel is the highest. They 
are all barren, and chiefly rock. At length our phleg- 
matic drivers thought proper to proceed, but after three 
hours, on account of the heat, they halted again near a 
little valley, at the bottom of which flows a rivulet in the 
rainy season; but we now found only a few stagnant 
pools. Here I continued my researches, and saw the first 
land-tortoise, of the species called by the Dutch, Patloo- 
per, from their generally keeping on the path-way or 
carriage-road. It was about four inches square, of a 
greenish colour, the compartments of its shell fringed with 
brown and yellow. Small broken fragments of white 
opaque quartz are here every where mixed witfi the iron 
and sand-stone, gravel, and pebbles. In the evening, we 
halted again, and proceeding slowly, arrived towards 
morning at the farm of a Mr. Klemm, a German, who 
gave us a very friendly reception. Here the road to 
Gnadenthal turns to the left. 

15th. As soon as the day dawned, we saw ourselves 
surrounded by the same dreary country as before. Very 
few shrubs and low bushes enclose the Serjeant's Revier 
in the valley, but the mountains begin to show themselves 
to greater advantage. To the right lies the Zwarteberg 
or Black-Mountain, under the south side of which the 
Warm-bath is situated. It is high, with many dells and 
gullies among its rocky steeps. Before us, the higher 
and very picturesque range of hills, among which the 
great Bavian's mountain (or Gnadenthal mountain) is 
the most conspicuous, afforded a noble and interesting 



Visit to south Africa, 57 

prospect. It somewhat resembles the higher ranges of 
the Cuiiiberland and Westmoreland hills in the neigh- 
bourhood of Winandermere and Brathay vale, but its 
foot is not clothed with the rich verdure and beautiful 
plantations with which our English valleys and the as- 
cents of our hills abound. Uwe were impatient to reach 
the end of our journey, our oxen seemed more so, for on 
being again yoked to the wagon, the Hottentots could 
hardly keep them from going off in a w^ild gallop. They 
almost ran over the boys, who led the foremost. As 
the shaft-oxen cannot keep a wagon back on a steep de- 
scent, and a drag-chain does not always answer the pur- 
pose on these roufifh roads, the way of the Hottentots is, 
to tack down a hill. To a traveller, not accustomed to 
it, it appears rather dangerous to be driving among the 
heath, high bushes, mole-hills, and ants' nests, where in 
England there would be a certainty of oversetting, es* 
pecially in turning so suddenly as these people do. But 
they guide fourteen or sixteen oxen with the greatest 
skill ; and the length of the wagons, yielding to the un- 
evennesses of the road, keeps them upright, notwithstand- 
ing the violent jolting experienced by the travellers. 

The approach to Gnadenthal and the Baviaas-Kloof, 
which now opened to view, was to us all highly interest- 
ing and affecting. The road winds among low heathy 
hills, behind which the high mountains rise in various 
shapes, forming a bold outline. Within an English mile 
from the river Sonderend, we were met by about a hun- 
dred Hottentots, men, women, and children, on horse- 
back and on foot, who came to bid us welcome, accompa- 
nied by the missionaries Leitner and Beinbrech. We 
alighted, and the people, placing themselves in a semi- 
circle, sung a few verses, expressive of their joy and gra- 
titude to God for bringing us safely across the ocean to 
this land. Having remounted the wagons, we proceed- 
ed with them and forded the river. The water reached 
to the middle of the bodies of our oxen. 

Gnadenthal lies about an English mile from the ford, 
and as we drew nearer, the number of those, w^ho came 
to meet us, every moment increased. The entrance into 
the village i,s through lanes enclosed by hedge-rows, 

B 



58 JOURNAL OF A 

and the dwellings of the missionaries appear under a 
grove planted by the first three Brethren, Marsveld, 
Schwinn, and Kuehnel, some time after their arrival in 
1792. 

Little do I now wonder at the rapture with which 
this place is spoken of by travellers, who, after traversing 
a dreary, uncultivated country, without a tree to screen 
them from the scorching rays of the sun, find themselves 
transported into a situation, by nature the most barren 
and wild, but now rendered fruitful and inviting, by the 
persevering diligence and energy of a few plain, pious, 
sensible, and judicious men, who came hither, not seek- 
ing their own profit, but that of the most despised of na- 
tions ; and while they directed their own and their 
hearers' hearts to the dwellings of bliss and glory above, 
taught them those things, which have made even their 
earthly dwelling, comparatively, a kind of paradise, and 
changed filth and misery into comfort and peace. s 

The missionaries and their wives received us with the! 
greatest kindness and hospitality, while a fresh companyl 
of Hottentots, standing under some venerable and wide- 
spreading oaks, which overshadow the court, welcomed 
us by singing a hymn, and by every token of affectionate 
regard. We joined with our whole hearts in their 
thanksgivings to God our Preserver, for the numberless 
favours received at His hands throughout the whole of 
our travels by land and sea. 



CHAPTER IV. 

.Account of Gnadenthal Its church, grove of oaks, gardens, 
burial-ground, and Hottentots' dwellings. Bavians-Kloof. 
Building of a new-house. Daily employments of the mis- 
stonaries. Visit to the Hottentots' huts. Caffre-Kraal 
Wilhelmina, a Coffre woman. Stephen, killed by a horse. 
Account of the interior of the Bavians-Kloof Some in- 
ternnl arrangements of a Mission of the United Brethren. 
Chapel-servants. Celebration of the Lord's Supper. De- 
cent appearance of the congregation. Journey to, and ac- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 59 

count of^Mthe Warm-baths near Caledon. Dr. Hassner. 
Description of Caledon. Schools at Gnadenthal. Tree 
serpents. Conversations with Father Marsveld. 

Gnadenthal lies about one hundred and twenty English 
miles Irotn Capetown, in a direction nearly due east. It 
is the principal missionary settlement of the United Bre- 
thren in South Africa- 

The Mission among the Hottentots was begun in 
1737, by George Schmidt, a man of remarkable zeal and 
courage, who settled at this place, then known by the 
name of Bavians-Kloof,— The Hottentots heard the gos- 
pel with attention, and he soon collected a small Chris- 
tian congregation. He taught the youth to read Dutch, 
and instructed the people in several useful arts. In 
1744, leaving them to the care of a pious man, he went 
to Europe, with a view to represent the promising state 
of the Mission, and to return with assistants. But, to his 
inexpressible grief and disappointment, he was not per- 
mitted by the Dutch East-India Company to resume his 
labours, some ignorant people having insinuated, that 
the propagation of Christianity among the Hottentots 
would injure the interests of the colony. Since that time, 
to the year 171>2, the Brethren did not cease to make 
application to the Dutch Government for leave to send 
missionaries to the Cape, especially as they heard, that 
the small Hottentot congregation had kept together for 
some time, in earnest expectation of the return of their 
beloved teacher. Brother Schmidt had left a Dutch 
New Testament with them, which they read together 
for their edification. 

At length, in 1792, by the mercy of God, and the 
kind interference of friends in the Dutch Government, 
leave was given to send out three missionaries, who, on 
their arrival, were willing, at the desire of the Gover- 
nor, to go first to Bavians-Kloof, and there to commence 
their labours, on the same spot where Brother Schmidt 
had resided. Instructions from the Government in Hol- 
land directed them to choose the place of their residence, 
wherever they might find it most convenient; but the 



60 JOURNAL OF A 

circumstances of the colony at that time would not ad- 
mit of it. 

The English having made themselves masters of the 
colony in 1796, the Brethren were permitted to build a 
Church, and by the favour which the British Govern- 
ment has uniforraily shown to the Brethren's Missions, 
they now remain undisturbed and protected in their civil 
and religious liberty. 

In 1792, when the three missionaries, Henry Marsveld, 
Daniel Schwinn, and John Christian Kuehnel came hi- 
ther, they found an old woman, Helena, baptized by Bro- 
ther Schmidt, still ahve, who delivered to them the 
New Testament he had given her. But few vestiges of 
his dwelling remained. The place was a perfect wil- 
derness; at present thirteen hundred Hottentots inhabit 
the village. The name Gnadenthal was given to it by 
the Dutch Governor Jansen. 

We spent the first afternoon after our arrival, in 
walking through part of the settlement. Out of every 
house and hut, men, women, and children, came forth 
with friendly faces to meet us, and to testify their joy at 
our arrival. Having observed to some of the inhabi- 
tants, who live near the church, that the place before 
their houses was not kept in good order, and Brother 
Bonatz adding, that I was De fiTeer, of whom he had told 
them, that he would come from Europe to see them, and 
expected to find cleanliness and order established 
throughout the whole village, they fell to work, and in 
half an hour removed all the rubbish and ashes lying 
about their houses, promising that I should never see 
such disorder again. We next went into the great gar- 
den, in the centre of which stands the celebrated pear- 
tree, planted by the late venerable missionary, George 
Schmidt, in 1738. Having in fifty-two years, during the 
suspension of the mission, ^^rown to a vast size, it served 
the Brethren, in 1792, both for a church and school, the 
people and their children sitting under the shade of its 
wide-spreading branches. Some symptoms of decay at 
its top, had made pruning necessary, which has lessened 
its size, but it is now quite alive and sound. The burial- 
ground lies west of the garden, a double row of oaks 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 61 

sheltering it towards the north. It is divided into four 
equal compartments, at present, comprehending about 
three hundred graves of Hottentots, in regular rows, 
each distinguished by a piece of wood, marked with a 
number, referring to the church-books, as at Groene- 
kioof. 

From hence we walked into the glen, called Bavians* 
Kloofi from its having formerly been the resort of a 
great number of baboons. But since the inhabitants of 
the valley have multiplied, these creatures have retired 
to more desolate parts of the mountains, and but seldom 
make their appearance, except when peaches and other 
garden-fruits are getting ripe. A lively brook, called 
the Bavians-Revier, issues from the glen, and, flowing 
through the village, falls into the river Sonderend, not 
far from the ford. 

hi the evening, about four hundred Hottentots attend- 
ed the service at the church, and after a suitable address 
by Brother Bonatz, joined in a hymn of praise to God, 
for having brought us safe to this place. When we de- 
livered the salutations sent by the congregations of the 
Brethren in Germany and England, to tlie converts from 
among the Hottentots, with best wishes for an increase 
of every blessing upon them and their nation, loud thanks- 
givings followed. To us new-comers, it was a truly grati- 
fying and affecting sight, to see so large a number of Chris- 
tian Hottentots assembled together, and to hear them, 
with heart and voice, joining in the worship of Him, with 
whom there is no respect of persons, but whose grace 
and mercy are free to all of every tribe and nation, who 
humbly seek his face. 

I was very comfortably lodged, and cannot but here 
acknowledge, with gratitude, the kindness of the widow 
of the late missionary Philip Kohrhammer. She had re- 
tired to a small chamber in an out-house, and insisted on 
my taking possession of her room in the mission-house. 

16th. When 1 awoke in the morning, I could han" 
believe, that I was actually at Gnadenthal ; a pla( e, 
which for so many years has been the subject of my 
thoughts and my pra)'ers ; of which 1 have so long de- 



62 JOURNAL OP A 

lighted to speak and write, and which I have so often 
visited in spirit. It was my most fervent wish and prayer, 
that the Lord would make this visit profitable to my own 
soul ; and, if I might be thus highly favoured, beneficial 
to the cause I came to serve. 

Immediately after breakfast, I went into the church* 
From without, its appearance by no means exhibits the 
classical taste of the architect : but it is imposing by its 
size, the thickness of its walls, which are of unburnt 
brick, plastered and yellow-washed, its arched windows, 
its high roof, and its gable-ends, serrated or finished in 
short steps, with a vane on the point of each. In short, 
it looks like nothing else, and its general character im- 
mediately pronounces it to be a place of worship. The 
height of its roof makes it a very conspicuous object in 
approaching the valley from every side, and nothing is 
wanting but a slender turret in the centre of the roof of 
about twenty or thirty feet in height, to give it all the 
appearance of an ancient ecclesiastical building. The 
doors are, in my opinion, on the wrong side. It should 
turn its main front to the village, whereas, now, it faces 
the grove and the mission-dries' dwellings. Two arched 
windows are placed between the doors, and one between 
each door and the gable-end. The front towards the vil- 
lage has arched windows. The arches over the doors are 
glazed. On entering the building, I was agreeably struck 
with its neatness and cleanliness. Two columns, about a 
yard in diameter, support the immense roof, and at first 
sight, surprise every beholder. That thickness was thought 
necessary, as they are constructed of unburnt brick. They 
resemble the plainest Saxon columns in some of our cathe- 
drals. The chalky material used here for white-wash, 
which comes from a place near the seacoast, called Karst 
Revier, has a peculiar brightness, contributing much to 
the cheerful look of this temple. The body of the church, 
with the gallery, which occupies three of its sides, will hold 
upwards of a thousand persons. The front of the gallery is 
supported by iron bars, pendant from the beams in the 
ceiling. The latter is not plastered, but is a neat flooring 
of yellovy-wood upon a joist. The plain outside of the 
gallery, is relieved by a very simple, but ingenious con- 



VISII^ TO SOUTH AFRICA. 63 

trivance. Upright boards, shaped hke pilasters, are 
nailed upon the horizontal planks, which give the whole 
a finished appearance. The minister's table is, I think, 
inconveniently placed between the two entrances. On 
Sundays, it is converted into a species of pulpit, by 
placing a high desk upon it. The whole is covered with 
^reen cloth, and elevated on a step above the floor. 
This step runs the whole length from door to door, un- 
der the seats of the missionaries. The space under the 
gallery at the east-end, is boarded off, as a small vestry, 
used only as a waiting room for the officiating minister, 
and to dress, previous to the holy sacrament. The 
church is lighted by three lamps, hanging, one in the 
centre, and one on each side, in a line with the columns. 
The congregation sit on benches, the men on the east, 
the women on the west-side of the building; both below, 
and in the gallery, a space of about two yards down the 
middle, forms a passage between them ; at the bottom 
of which stands another large table, used at the com- 
munion, and in the meetings for instruction and cate- 
chisation, when those present turn with their faces to- 
wards it. 

The belfry, which, after the arrival of the English, 
the missionaries were permitted to build, stands in the 
middle of the grove. It is an arch, supported by sub- 
stantial pilasters, whitened, and a pleasant object. The 
sound of the bell may be heard a good way down the 
valley. It is used for every purpose of call, to church, 
to school, or to meals, and consequently is sometimes 
rung eight or nine times in the day. 

From my first entrance into Gnadenthal, I determined 
to lose no opportunity of obtaining a complete know- 
ledge, both of its inward and outward state, and of con- 
tributing, to the best of my power, by advice and assist- 
ance, towards its prosperity. I therefore began imme- 
diately to consult the missionaries in what manner my 
time might be most profitably spent in this service. Be- 
sides many conferences with reference to the internal and 
spiritual concerns of the Mission, we were led to consi- 
der the necessity of making various improvements, as far 
as our slender means would permit. The missionaries. 



64 JOURNAL OP A 

% 

who had accompanied me hither, found no dwellings pro- 
vided for theui, and were rather uncomfortably lodged 
in the garden-house, the gardening tools having been 
pieviously removed, and at the inn, a house kept by a 
Hottentot, and chiefly used by farmers visiting the settle- 
ment, to refresh themselves and their horses, for a few 
hours, but seldom as a night's lodging. The resident 
missionaries, having each only one room for himself and 
family, could not possibly take them in. An additional 
building, therefore, seemed indispensably necessary ; 
and we resolved to build a house, in a line with the 
school and smithy, which should contain three rooms and 
a joiner's shop. 

Brother Peter Leitner was intrusted with the commis- 
sion ; and on the Hottentot congregation being informed 
of the resolution, fifteen masons offered their services. A 
sufficient number of hands were soon engaged; some to 
cut reed for thatching, others to assist in making unburnt 
bricks ; and in a short time, the foundation was laid, 
according to the plan agreed on. I had here an oppor- 
tunity of observing a feature in the character of the Hot- 
tentots. It is true, that from affection and gratitude to 
the missionaries, they will engage to work : if, however, 
they have no relish for it themselves, they are apt to go 
about it rather sluggishly. But if the work please them, 
which was here the case, no European workmen exceed 
them in spirit and diligent attention ; only the execution 
must not last too long, lest, like children, they begin to 
get tired of it. They are flattered and pleasecl when vi- 
sited by their employers while at work, particularly if 
the latter take some share in it, and now and then lend 
assistance, if only by removing a stone, or helping to lift 
a beam. 

Before dinner, two English officers of dragoons arri- 
ved on a visit. They appeared highly pleased with the 
whole settlement; particularly with the neatness and 
regularity of the missionaries' dwellings, the convenience 
and cleanliness of the church, and the number of trees, 
both upon the premises, and dispersed throughout the 
village. It gave me pleasure to accompany them in their 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 65 

walk, and to satisfy their inquiries after the origin and 
aim of the institution. 

In the evening-meeting, Brother Marsveld delivered a 
very animated discourse on the text of the day. I was 
surprised to find him still able to speak with so much 
energy and strength of recollection in spiritual things. 

17th. We rose at the first sound of the bell, which 
rings at b^f past five. At that time the family meet in 
the dining-room, read the texts of Scripture appointed 
for the day, sing some verses generally out of hymns con- 
nected with their contents, or any other morning-hymn, 
and then take a dish of coffee ; but what they call 
breakfast is not ready till eight o'clock, and more like a 
hincheon. Very little time is spent at their meals. Be- 
tween twelve and one they dine ; drink tea or coffee at 
two ; sup between six and seven, and go to the church 
at eight, when the whole congregation meet for evening- 
worship. Every day, however, has its regular meetings 
for one or other division of the congregation, for instruc- 
tion in the Christian doctrines. The schools are held in 
the forenoon for the boys, and in the afternoon for the 
girls. 

After breakfast. Brother Bonatz walked with me into 
the village, when we entered about a dozen houses. The 
village consists at present of two hundred and fifty-six 
cottages and huts, containing twelve hundred and seven- 
ty-six inhabitants. The dwellings are differently con- 
structed. Some of the new people who are permitted 
to reside here on trial, or the poorest of the inhabitants, 
put up a hut, made with a few upright poles, between 
which there is a wattling of reeds or rushes, or a species 
of slender cane. Again, others have walls of unburnt 
brick, or wattling covered with a clay plastering, with 
square doors and windows, and a well-thatched roof. 
None of them are fond of too much light; and general- 
ly one window, or at most two, serves for the whole 
house, before which not unfrequcntly hangs a curtain of 
sheep-skin to prevent any intrusion of the sun's rays. 

Each house has a garden belonging to it, and the state 
of the garden generally betrays the disposition of the in- 
habitant. Some are kept neat, and produce good crops ; 





66 JOURNAL OF A 

others, though not many, are full of weeds. The mis- 
sionary upon whom this branch of service devolves, after 
exercising due patience in admonishing and warning the 
possessor, may deprive him of it, and give it to another. 
Most of the gardens, however, look well ; and being 
separated from each other by low hedges or bushes, the 
whole valley appears well clothed with verdure. 

In some of the dwellings, the children of the poor, par- 
ticularly the little boys, go naked ; and some of the men 
wear only karosses and aprons, after the old Hottentot 
fashion. But those that have better earnings, soon pro- 
vide themselves with jackets and trowsers, and other ar- 
ticles of European dress, which they always w^ear on 
Sundays, clothing their children in linen or calico shirts, 
trowsers, or petticoats. The head-dress of the women 
is a handkerchief, neatly infolding their heads, above the 
ears, with a loop in fr ont, and looks well. 

On each side of the valley, the cottages are placed in 
rows; but the rest are irregularly distributed between 
them. Though at first I had joined others in regretting, 
that, from the beginning, no regular plan had been fol- 
lowed throughout, by degrees I became pleased with 
the romantic irregularity of the interior part of the set- 
tlement, when, as I walked among the hedges on a ser- 
pentine foot-path, I unexpectedly met w^ith a snug cot- 
tage under cover of quince, fig, and other fruit-trees, and 
an assemblage of women and children sitting at work 
under their shade ; then, after some friendly conversa- 
tion, passing on, I again surprised another family with a 
visit. In one of the huts, Brother Bonatz desired a 
poor boy, dressed only in a kaross and apron, to read 
some verses in the bible to me, which he did without 
hesitation. 

At thiee o'clock in the afternoon, a pretty large con- 
grepfation of communicants attended the confirmation of 
^'^u^T^^^ woman, previous to her first participation of 
the Holy Communion. Father Schwinn ofliciated, and 
delivered an edifying discourse on the aim of that sacred 
ordmance. I took afterwards a walk with Brother 
Lemmerz, into a part of the settlement on the eminence 
heyond the Bavians-Revier, called the Caffre-Kraal, be- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 67 

ing inhabited chiefly by Christian CaiFres. These peo- 
ple were admitted as inhabitants at Gnadenthal before 
the late disturbances; and when all the Caifres were 
banished the colony, and obliged to retreat across the 
Great Fish River, those belonging to the Brethren's 
Mission obtained leave from Government to remain here, 
and have always conducted themselves in the most 
peaceable and orderly manner. Some of them are dis- 
tinguished by their exemplary conduct. Thej^ differ in 
features and in habits from the Hottentots ; but here, 
associate with them in perfect amity. 

From thence we went into a kloof or valley called 
Siebenfonteyn, at the bottom of the ascent towards the 
great mountain, where we found a very good house and 
garden. The wife of the possessor, with whom we had 
some conversation, seemed a pious, sensible woman. 

To-day I heard with much pleasure a party of men 
and women, employed as day-labourers in the missiona- 
ries' garden, both before and after their meal, which 
they enjojed in the shade of the grove, most melodious- 
ly singing a verse, by way of a grace. One of the women 
sung a correct second, and very sw^eetly performed that 



figure in music, called Retardation ; 



'to 



i 



pp^ : 



from 



which I judge, that dissonants are not the invention of 
art, but the production of nature. Nothing would be more 
eas3% than to form a chorus of the most delightful voices, 
in four parts, from among this smooth-throated nation. 
18th. After breakfast, Sister Bonatz brought a Chris- 
tian Caffre w^oman into my room, who had expressed a 
particular wish to speak to me. I desired her to sit 
down, which, after some hesitation, she did on a low 
stool, as is their custom, and Sister Bonatz being inter- 
preter, said, that she came to beg, that we would send 
teachers to her nation, who were in the dark, ignorant 
of God, and of that happiness in Jesus, which sh?, though 
so unworthy, experienced, and consequently given up as 
a prey to every kind of sin and evil. On this subject 
she delivered herself with a kind of fervour and elo- 
quence, which would have done credit to the most ci- 



g8 JOURNAL OF A 

vilized orator. She spoke with great humility of the 
mercy shown to herself, of the privilege she enjoyed of 
living among a people of God, of her ardent desire, that 
her own brother and sister, and all her country people, 
should experience the same ; and entreated, that they 
might not be forgotten. She was afraid, ^^ that perhaps 
the teachers might leave off praying for them." She 
had, however, found a text of Scripture which revived 
her hopes : " I will bring the blind by a way that they 
knew not." Is. xlii. 16. She would therefore yet hope 
" that our Saviour would send to them His word, and call 
them to partake of His salvation." I answered, that I 
could assure her, that her countrymen were not forgot- 
ten by the Fathers and Brethren in Europe, and that I 
had been particularly commissioned to make inquiry 
about the practicability of establishing a Mission in her 
country ; but having spoken with the Governor and 
other persons in office, I was given to understand, that 
just now it would not be safe, while the war lasted. 
She replied, that the boors Avere in fault, but she hoped 
that the war would soon cease, and then that something 
would be done for them. She thought " that the best 
way to begin a Mission would be, to send one or more 
CafFres to king T Geika, and inform him of the aim of 
such an institution, and though she believed, that just 
now the Caffres might kill the boors for robbing them of 
their land, they would protect missionaries coming from 
Gnadenthal ; that a settlement might be formed, hy the 
CafFre part of this congregation becoming the first set- 
tlers in any part of their country, suitable for the pur- 
pose, and that, if a mission were begun, and succeeded, 
there would be an end of all CafFre wars with the En- 
glish." The name of tnis woman is Wilhelmina, a com- 
municant, and in her person, manner, and neatness of 
apparel, superior to any of the Hottentots. 1 was much 
pleased and edified by her conversation. 

It is the common custom, in this warm climate, for 
every person who can afford the time, to take a nap 
after dinner, and I was advised to do the same, under 
an idea, that without it there is too much waste of 
strength. To-day, I walked after dinner into the great 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 69 

garden, and sat down under George Schmidt's pear tree, 
when 1 began to feel drowsy. I retired therefore into 
my room, to try the effect of the advice given me, but 
when called to coffee, felt so much stupified by the at- 
tempt, that I ever after resisted it, and generally walked 
about the premises after dinner, or employed the time 
in drawing, by the help of the camera obscura, nor did 
I ever feel inconvenience from wakefulness. I walked 
this afternoon with Brother Lemmerz to the new vine- 
yard in KornlandVKloof, which promises to yield an 
abundant crop. By the way we called on several Hot- 
tentots in their houses. 

19th. The greater part of this day was spent in con- 
ference on different subjects. During an early walk, I 
was much dehghted by watching some thin and almost 
transparent summer clouds skimming along the upper 
region of rocks on the great mountain. The shades and 
tints of the lower cliffs were charmingly variegated as 
illumined by the rays of a bright morning sun. In the 
afternoon, all the new-comers went with Brother Bonatz 
on a visit to the Hottentots and Caffres beyond the Ba- 
vians-Revier. 

20th. After dinner, word was brought that a commu- 
nicant, Stephen, had received so severe a blow in* his 
stomach by the kick of a horse, that his life was in dan- 
ger. I accompanied Brother Bonatz to see him. We 
found him lying on his breast, under a hedge, with four 
or five women sitting near him. Some men had con- 
veyed him thus far on a bedstead, when, not able to 
bear the motion, he begged to be put down. We en- 
couraged him to endeavour to rise ; and, after he had 
taken some medicine, four stout men carried him to hl^ 
dwelling, but the door being too narrow to admit the 
bedstead, they conveyed him into the stable. He w^as 
in great agony, and his case truly pitiable. His wife had 
just been deUvered. They were extremely poor, and 
had four young children alive ; one was lately drowned. 
They spoke of their complicated distress with resigna- 
tion to the will of God, and poor Stephen expressed his 
conviction, that he should depart out of this world, pray- 
ing that the Lord would have mercy on him and take 



70 JOURNAL OF A 

him to himself. On our return, something was sent for 
the reHef of the patient. 

In the evening, I walked with Brother Lemmerz into 
the kloof. We worked our way through the bushes to- 
wards a rocky eminence, from which I hoped to gain a 
view of the division made in the upper part of the kloof 
by four round hillocks, but was disappointed. A num- 
ber of children of both sexes were employed in getting 
firewood, all with naked feet, and not half dressed, fear- 
ing neither thorns, sharp stones, nor serpents, which are 
not unfrequently met with. The stone throughout the 
kloof is sand-stone, generally of a reddish hue, intersect- 
ed by veins of white quartz, here and there imperfectly 
chrystallized. The rocks appear as if they were put to- 
gether of fragments of various sizes. Some of their 
ledges are covered with beautiful shrubs, and the par- 
tridge aloe grows every where in great perfection. 

This evening, a chest with Dutch bibles and Testa- 
ments, a present from the British and Foreign Bible So- 
ciety, arrived, to the great joy of the missionaries and 
the Hottentots. In the evening-service, I was more 
than ever charmed with the voices of the congre- 
gation. 

Before I proceed in my narrative, it may be proper 
to give an account of sonic of the internal regulations of 
the missionary settlements of the United Brethren, which 
are the same in every country. The gospel is preached 
to all heathen, to whom the missionaries can oain access^ 
and everyone invited to be reconciled to God, through 
the atonement made by Jesus Christ. Besides the pub- 
lie testimony of the gospel, the missionaries are diligent- 
ly employed in visiting and conversing with the heathen 
in their dwellings. If any come to the missionaries for 
further instruction, giving in their names, they are 
called JS'ew People^ and special attention is paid to them. 
If their subsequent conduct proves their sincerity, and 
they desire to be initiated into the Christian Church by 
Holy Baptism, they are considered as Candidates for 
Baptism,^ and, after previous instruction, and a convenient 
time of probation, baptized. In admitting them to the 
Holy Communion, they are first permitted to be once 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 71 

present as spectators, and called Candidates for the Com- 
mnmon; and aCter some time, become Communicants^ 
Jirach of these divisions have separate meetings, in which 
thej are instructed in all things relating to a godly life 
and walk. Separate meetings are also held with other 
divisions of the congregation; with the children, the 
sin^^le men, the single women, the married people, the 
widowers, and widows, in which the admonitions and 
precepts given in the Holy Scriptures for each state of 
Iile are inculcated. Every member of the congregation 
IS expected to come, at stated seasons, to converse with 
the missionaries; the men with a missionary, and the 
women with his wife, by which a more perfect know- 
ledge of the individuals is gained, and an opportunity 
aftorded to each, to request and receive special advice. 
t rom among the most approved of the people of both 
sexes, Assistants are appointed in large congregations, 
who visit the sick, make reports to the missionaries, and 
help to maintain order. Others are employed as Chapel- 
servants, who take their turn in attendance. 

21st. In the afternoon, the chapel-servants had a meet- 
ing, as usual in the beginning of the year, the aim of 
which IS, to encourage them to diligence and faithfulness 
in their service. The conversation was free, unaffected, 
and edifying. Many of them, both men and women, join- 
ed in It with great modesty. Father Marsveld, after a 
short address, asked some questions concerning their ser- 
vice, and their views in accepting of the appointment. 
Iheir answers surprised and delighted me. They pro- 
ved, that these people, latelv so ignorant, had, by the in- 
struction, not of men, but of the Spirit of God, conceived 
views and ideas of the service in the house of God more 
just, than many who think themselves far more enlitrht- 
ened. Their spirit seemed truly that of David, who 
would rather be a door-keeper in the house of the Lord* 
than dwell in the tents of the wicked. One said, that he 
felt so unworthy of being thus employed, that when he 
rose to snuff the candles, he almost trembled, lest he 
should do any thing to disturb the congregation or the 
teacher. Tlie conversation turned also upon brotherly 
love, and a willingness to help each other in trouble or 



72 JtOURNAL OF A 

sickness, which is not natural to the Hottentots. This 
gave occasion to many practical observations, and my 
quoting the simile used in Scripture, of the intimate con- 
nexion of the members of the body, that if one suffer the 
whole is affected, with explanations given by some of the 
missionaries present, seemed to make a deep impression 
upon them. They with one consent expressed their 
thankfulness for having received more teachers, and for 
my visit. Father Marsveld's manner in leading the 
conversation, was that of a sensible parent addressing 
sensible children. To me, this opportunity of noticing 
the disposition of the Hottentots, when converted to 
Christ, was singularly agreeable and important. Short- 
ly after, they all came into my room, to pay me a special 
visit, and once more to bid me welcome. The camera 
obscura happening to stand in a position, which showed 
the church and the grove, with people passing and re- 
passing, exceedingly amused and astonished them. 

A messenger now announced that Stephen was in a 
dying state, and Brother Bonatz immediately went to see 
him once more, but on arriving at the house, found that 
he had just breathed his last. The case of this poor man 
and his family distressed and disturbed my mind. Both 
he and his wife were worthy members of the congrega- 
tion, and now, in the midst of family troubles, they are 
separated, when the assistance of the husband seemed 
most needed. 

As Sunday is generally a day, on which strangers at- 
tend divine worship, or visit the settlement, the Holy 
Communion is always held in the evening, when there 
are no intruders. At half past seven the communicant 
congregation assembled in the church. What shall I 
say of this solemnity ! I wished all my friends, who take 
fehare in the success of the Missions of our Church, to 
be present. What a miracle is here wrought by the 
power of God, through the simple preaching of the word 
of the Cross ! What must the feelings of those men 
be, who first were employed in the renewal of this Mis- 
sion, no longer ago than in 1792, when they behold the 
effects of their labours. I made this remark to Father 
Marsveld. His answer was — " It is so clearly the work 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 73 

of God, and not of man, that we almost forget that we 
have at all been employed in it. When we came hither^ 
our utmost hope was, that we might perhaps, in a course 
of years, see forty or fifty Hottentots converted and 
formed into a Christian congregation ; and as we were 
travelling towards this place, we prayed to our Saviour, 
that He might bless and support us ; and if He granted 
us the favour to see but one soul converted in truth, we 
should think ourselves well rewarded. And now, when 
we behold what He has done, we are indeed overwhelmed 
with gratitude and amazement : but not unto us, not un- 
to us^ to His name alone be all the glory and all the 
praise." This was likewise the constant expression of 
Father Schwinn : he once said to me of his own accord, 
" We are unprofitable servants and sinful men ; we have 
done many things amiss, and have nothing to boast of, 
but mercy. The Lord forgave us our sins, healed every 
breach, and helped us to serve Him with gladness from 
day to day, while we beheld the effects produced by 
the power of His Word and Spirit.'' That venerable 
apostle, George Schmidt, and Father Kuehnel, are in 
heaven, rejoicing before the throne of the Lamb over the 
success of the faithful labours of God's servants on 
earth. 

But to return to the celebration of the Lord's supper. 
The devotion and fervour, with which the Hottentots 
present attended to the service, and received the sacred 
elements, were peculiarly striking to my mind. Their 
singing was melodious, but rather too soft. I was told 
in apology, that not all of them were acquainted with 
the hymns sung by the minister who officiated. A Post- 
Communion followed, for such as had been necessarily 
prevented from attending before, by family duties, 
watching, or other hinderances. I retired to my room, ra- 
ther overwhelmed by the feelings and reflections of my 
mind, and with a heart filled with thankfulness to God 
our Saviour for such a manifestation of bis power and 
grace as I had just witnessed. It may appear like en- 
thusiasm, but I asked no longer, " Am I really and bo- 
dily in Gnadenthal?" but, " Am I yet on earth ?" 

22d. Having promised Brother Leitner, that I would 

IG 



fj^ JOURNAL OF A 

accompany him to-day on a visit to his wife, who had for 
some weeks been confined by illness at the warm-bath 
near Caledon, we prepared to leave Gnadenthal imme- 
diately after the morning-service, which on the day fol- 
lowing the celebration of the Holy Communion, is a Li- 
turgy for thanksgiving. 1 was astonished to see the 
church well filled, and all the communicants yet in their 
Sunday's dress, neat and clean. U some of my Cape 
friends, who often described the Hottentots as an incor- 
rigible set of lazy, dirty, and ragged creatures, were to 
see this congregation on such occasions, they would at 
least say, that here^ facts do not prove their assertion 
true. At the Communion, most of the women are dress- 
ed in clean white gowns. Both men and women save 
their best apparel, that they may appear decent at 
church on Sundays, but there is no affectation of finery 
among them. 

We set off in our own wagon and ten oxen, for the 
warm-bath. Brother Thomsen accompanying us. The 
weather was fine, and the haze hovering about the mid- 
dle region of the mowntains, only served to make their 
outUne and the distances of different ridges more dis- 
tinct. I have nowhere seen any chain of mountains of a 
more picturesque and imposing appearance. Some of 
the low heathy hills, forming the valley in which Gna- 
denthal lies, have fanciful shapes, and rocky ledges 
about half way up the ascent. At Klemm's farm, we 
made but a short stay, and proceeded on the Cape road 
for about eight English miles, w^hen we turned to the 
left, towards the Zwarteberg. This is a bleak mountain 
of moderate height, furrowed, as it were, with rocky 
kloofs on the north side. The chief amusement on these 
journeys is the contemplation of the singular ranges of 
bills, which form the horizon. On doubling the west 
corner of the Zwarteberg, a high mountain, called the 
Tower of Babel, presents itself with much grandeur. 
^ The town or village of Caledon is but as a sapling 
rising out of the ground, the houses are neat, and the 
church in form of a cross, without a steeple. The cir- 
cumjacent country is naked, and a barren waste, except- 
ing a few green spots of cultivation in the vale. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 75 

The warm-baths are about one English mile beyond 
the town, under the south declivity of the mountain. We 
were welcomed by our friends and Dr. Hassner, the 
proprietor of the baths, with great cordiality ; the latter 
conducted me to his house, where I met with a very 
hospitable reception, and excellent accommodations. 
Some friends came and spent an hour with us. 

23d. I rose early, intending to try the effect of the 
warm bath, and found it the best possible remedy both 
against the rheumatism, and the prickly heat, which still 
haunted me. After breakfast with Brother Leitner's 
family. Dr. Hassner took me in his curricle to Caledon, 
where we waited upon the deputy-Ianddrost, Mr. Von 
Frauenfelder. Our friends followed us on foot. It 
proved a very pleasant visit; the landdrost showed us 
the church, and the prison, here called the Tronk. Hav- 
ing also paid our respects to the minister, the Rev. Mr. 
Voss, we returned to dinner. 

The efficacy of the warm-baths is universally ac- 
knowledged by all who have used them, both inhabitants 
of this colony, and invalids from the East Indies. After 
dinner, we visited the hot springs. They are situated 
in an eminence behind the new bathing-house. The 
principal one proceeds from an opening, about a foot 
and a half wide, the depth of which is not yet ascertain- 
ed. The temperature of the water is 1 1 8^^ Fahrenheit 
at the spring, and 112 in the bath. Between two hot 
springs a cold spring rises, which has water of a dif- 
ferent quality, and comparatively extremely cold. The 
soil on this part of the mountain is a black mould, as fine 
as powder. Shrubs and plants cover it and prevent its be- 
ing carried off by the wind. It is but shallow, and lies 
upon a crust of iron-stone of singular texture, porous, 
bulbous, and its fissures in some parts filled with a glis- 
tening substance. Most of it appears to have passed 
through fire ; here and there showing decomposition, 
and yielding a bright yellow ochre. I have called it a 
crust of iron-stone, because it sounds hollow under one's 
feet, as though it covered a vacuum, which, however, is 
not Dr. Hassner's opinion, but rather, that it is elastic. 
In one place, ^n opening or chasm appears, which is 



76 lOURNAL OF A 

said to have been occasioned by an eruption. On our 
return, we visited the old baths, higher up the hill. 

In the evening, Dr. Hassner gave me a detailed de- 
scription of the loss of the Arntston East Indiaman off 
Cape Aguillas, which happened about the end of May 
1815. The catastrophe was terrific. About three hun- 
dred souls perished, among whom w^ere Lord and Lady 
Molesworth, with other persons of high character. I 
could hardly fall asleep, so deep was the impression 
made upon my mind by the Doctor's eloquent account of 
the horror of this scene. 

24th. After breakfast, Brother Thomsen accompanied 
me to some eminences in front of the buildings, of which, 
and of the village, I made a sketch. On my return, we 
were visited by Mr. Hoetz, a merchant, and by the land- 
drost of Caledon. Sister Leitner being rather better in 
health, the company spent the day very pleasantly to- 
gether. After tea, I set out with Brother Thomsen to 
examine the rocky summit of the Zwarteberg. Beyond 
the iron-stone region, quartz is found in abundance; in- 
numerable flowers and shrubs of great variety grow 
among the rocks, and a botanist finds here a rich har- 
vest. 

The mountain is very properly called the Zwarteberg, 
or the Black Mountain^ for it is an assemblage of black, 
barren, rocky hillocks, rising one above the other in 
strange confusion, inhabited only by jackals, w^olves, ty- 
gers, and serpents. 

We were insensibly led from one eminence to the 
other, enjoying the prospect on all sides, and amusing 
ourselves with the contemplation of the plants, here and 
there luxuriantly growing between the stones, on a very 
thin covering of earth, when the setting sun reminded 
us of the necessity of returning by the shortest path. 
This we missed, and got among broken rocks, where 
almost every step was attended with danger. We sup- 
ped all together at the baths, and I found the conversa- 
tion of my worthy host so interesting, that I did not re- 
tire to rest till after midnight. 

25th. About half past six, we took leave of our old 
and new acquamtances, with prayers for the speedy re- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 77 

covery of our "worthy friend, Sister Leitner, and took the 
road along the south side of the Zwarteberg. The 
country is mostly barren, without a tree or bush to clothe 
its brown surface. Not a green spot is seen, excepting 
where, in the bed of some torrent, descending from the 
precipitous declivity of the mountain, a little moisture 
has been left behind. The Zwarteberg stretches about 
ten English miles, in a south-west and north-east direc- 
tion, and is perfectly barren. 

We passed through a farm, where, by an act of jus- 
tice, formerly unknown in this country, the possessors 
have been taught, that English law admits of no respect 
of persons; but when administered according to the con- 
stitution, provides security and justice for the lowest, as 
well as the highest ranks of society. The wife, with the 
assistance of her daughter, a girl of about eighteen years 
of age, had most unmercifully beaten a female slave in 
iheir service, though with child, wounding her from head 
to foot. Complaints of this act of barbarity having been 
brought before the Judge, at the circuit, lately establish- 
ed in this colony, and the cruel perpetrators being found 
guilty, they were condemned to pay three hundred rix- 
dollars fine, two thousand rix-dollars costs of suit, and 
that their slaves should all be sold, but not to one of 
their family. The farm appeared in a very dilapidated 
state. 

Some Hottentot women belonging to Gnadenthal, be-* 
ing at work in the field, ran towards our wagon, ex- 
pressed in the most friendly manner their joy at seeing 
their teachers, and delivered some little commissions to 
our driver and leader for their friends and families. I 
was vastly pleased with this rencontre. We halted at a 
farm, where the family gave us a friendly reception. I 
had been all day troubled with violent headach, but was 
cured by some hot tea, which, though proceeding from a 
dirty pewter urn, with sops of spider's legs, and frag- 
ments of the wings and bodies of flies, gave me almost 
immediate relief : whether owing to the decoction of 
these particles of insects, to the heat of the water, or any 
other cause, I waited not to examine, but felt thankful 
for my recovery. 



78 JOURNAL OF A 

The road now turned towards the Gnadenthal moun- 
tains, which, from some eminences, had a truly magnifi- 
cent appearance. We visited a farmer of the name of 
Kuntz, whom we found in an aihng state : he however 
came down and conversed with us. His farm Ues along 
a pretty valley, with an overflowing stream, and a con- 
siderable tract of land under cultivation : the house is 
large and roomy, and some of the ceilings are made of 
a fine yellow or olive-coloured wood from Ceylon. We 
now moved slowly towards our home, on bad roads and 
with weary cattle, but delighted with the prospect ; and 
about eight o'clock arrived in the shady recesses of 
Gnadenthal, the very sight of which affords comfort in 
this hot and sultry region. 

26th. After breakfast. Brother Clemens accompanied 
me into the garden, the burial-ground, and other pre- 
mises, when I mentioned to him some ideas of improve- 
ment, by which regularity and beauty might, in my opi- 
nion, be much furthered, at a small expense. But I will 
candidly confess, that by the time I had been a few 
months in Africa, and become better acquainted with the 
difiiculties presenting themselves on all sides, in promot- 
ing improvement, both moral and physical, I was rather 
disposed to stand astonished at what had been done, in 
so short a time, by our Brethren in this place, and at 
Groenekloof, than to expect immediate attention to my 
suggestions. Those venerable men, Marsveld and 
Schwinn, heard my remarks with great patience and 
forbearance, as they were never made, but under a con- 
viction of my being a novice, and with all due and un- 
feigned deference to their better judgment. I also saw 
an improvement, which pleased me. We visited the 
people who were cutting and drying peaches in the mis- 
sionaries' garden. Formerly the fruit was laid upon a 
platform constructed of broom, fastened to, and support- 
ed by uprights fixed in the ground. If it rained long, 
the peaches were spoiled, as they could not be removed, 
and the platform itself suffered great damage during the 
wet season. The Bi ethren were now gradually introduc- 
ing moveable racks or platforms, made of bamboo and 
reed wattling, and placed loose on a frame, which could 



VISIT To SOUTH AFRICA, 79 

be easily taken off, and with the load of fruit carried in- 
to a dry shed, and when not in use stowed away in a 
small compass. 

In the forenoon, we met in conference. Thirty-four 
persons were appointed for advance in church-privileges, 
from a list of about fifty under consideration. After 
dinner, they were called by the chapel-servants into the 
dining-room ; first, those to be admitted among the can- 
didates for baptism ; then, the persons to be baptized ; 
and lastly, some, who, having been baptized as children, 
were to be received into the congregation. After being 
informed of the advance they were to make, they were 
earnestly exhorted to walk worthy of the grace conferred 
upon them. The answers given to the very solemn 
questions put to them, were generally clear, and evi- 
dently proceeding from their hearts. I could not but 
admire the manner in which this service was conducted 
by the presiding missionary. 

To-day I attended a meeting of the men for instruc- 
tion in the Christian doctrines, in which Father Schwinn, 
besides asking some questions in the way of chatechisa- 
tion, delivered a very animated discourse. From the 
church I proceeded to the school, vi^here Brother Lem- 
merz was introduced to the boys as their future school- 
master. They took leave of his predecessor, Brother 
Leitner, and promised obedience, by giving their hands. 
A class was then called, that I might hear them spell and 
read, which they did very well, considering that the va- 
jcation, during the harvest, always brings with it some 
forgetfulness of what has been learned. Some of the 
poor boys come to school in their karosses and aprons, 
others are dressed in linen jackets and trowsers. The 
school-house is a very convenient, roomy building. As I 
had brought with me a present of bibles and testaments 
from the British and Foreign Bible Society, I took this 
opportunity of speaking to the children, and observing, 
that I should be glad, on my return, to be able to inform 
that venerable society that they were well bestowed. 

In the evening, the Liturgy, or hymn, treating of our 
Saviour's sufferings, appointed in our Church for Friday 
evening's worship, was sung in a spirit of humble thank- 



80 JOURNAL OF A 

fulness for our redemption. This is the grand subject, 
which has proved the means of conversion, civilization, 
and happiness in time and eternity, to believers of every 
tribe and nation. May it be and remain our constant 
theme, in spite of either a deriding world, or the vain 
conceits and specious arguments of such as pretend to 
superior insight, and think that they have found something 
higher and more effectual. 

I have seen to-day much of the course of a missionary 
station, where there are many descriptions of persons to 
attend to ; and I am convinced, that if a missionary does 
his duty, there is occasion for the exertion of all the 
energies of mind and body. May we always be favoured 
with missionaries, who can say with truth: " The Love 
of Christ constraineth us.^^ 

27th. I spent the forenoon at my desk. After dinner, 
while others were taking their African nap, which does 
not yet agree with me, I took a walk about the premises, 
and ascended the hill to the right, coming out of the 
kloof My intention was to seek a spot, from whence a 
view might be taken of the missionaries' premises, show- 
ing the church;, a part of every house, and the garden. 
On my return, finding the church-door open, I entered 
and climbed into the roof Here I found two Hottentots 
at work, who gave me some information about the build- 
ing. The timber used was allowed by Government to be 
cut in the forest of Soete Melks Valley. After coffee, 
the Brethren Clemens and Lemmerz went with me into 
the kloof On the road we were called to by some Hot- 
tentots, who had just caught a tree-serpent. It was a 
beautiful creature, about four ket long, mottled gray on 
the back, with a gold-yellow belly. These reptiles are 
said to be very venomous, and haunt trees and bushes. 
After a most pleasant walk, we returned, admiring the 
view of Gnadenthal church, as it presents itself at the 
opening of the kloof The rocks on both sides of the 
glen are of a deep brown-red colour. 

28th. This was a day of peculiar happiness and com- 
fort to many in this congregation, both to those who 
were admitted to church privileges, as above stated, and 
to all who took share in the prosperity of this work of 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 8J 

God. After an anisiated sermon by Father Marsvel(L 
two children were baptized. I was again, as at Gro^- 
nekloof, greatly edified by the questions put to, and an- 
swers given by the parents, previous to the solemn 
transaction. To see the widow of poor Stephen, lately 
killed by the kick of a horse, now appearing with her 
infant at the baptismal font, was a very affecting sight, 
and she was particularly recommended to the prayers 
and kind notice of the congregation. At three in the af- 
ternoon w-as the baptism of nine men, and six women. 
All ordained ministers were engaged in this service. I 
baptized three, one of whom was a CafFre, Klaas Stoffel. 
Brother Bonatz addressed both the large audiencpj 
which filled the church, and the candidates about to be 
baptized, in a manner so as to raise great attention. In 
the evening, we met again for the reception of three 
children of Christian parents into the congregation. 
Truly the presence of Him, who has promised to be 
with His people alway, even to the end of the world, 
was felt by most, if not all, who attended on these so- 
lemnities. 

29th. I was present at the morning-meeting for Chris- 
tian instruction, and afterwards, at the girls' school : one 
hundred and eleven children had assembled. They 
took leave of Father Marsveld, who had hitherto been 
their teacher, and received Brother Leitner in the man- 
ner before described. It was affecting to see many of 
them clinging about Father Marsveld, and with many 
tears shaking hands, to thank him for his kindness to- 
wards them, as their teacher. Some of the bigger girls 
seemed quite disconsolate, and cried for a long time 
without ceasing. About a hundred and thirty girls be- 
long to the school. 

To-day, Brother Bonatz introduced to me a Hottentot 
captain, who lives at Gnadenthal. He did not look 
much like a man in office, wore a very shabby jacket, 
and had neither shoes nor stockings. Brother Bonatz 
informed me, that he was very poor; and having 
brought a parcel of old clothes with me, to distribute 
among th,e poor, I presented him with a scarlet jacket, 
given me by a Bristol volunteer, which I happenec;! to 

1 7 



82 JOURNAL OB' A 

have among my store. I asked him to try it on, and as 
it fitted him well, told him that it was his, and suited 
him as an English captain. He could hardly believe, 
that he vras really put in possession of such a treasure, 
and strutted off with it, to the admiration of many pas- 
sengers on the road, who stood in surprise at the con- 
trast between the upper part of his attire, and the state 
of his legs and feet. 

30th. Eight new-people obtained leave to live here, 
on trial. 1 spent most of the day at home. 

31st. At the meeting for the children, about three 
hundred attended. After dinner, two Hottentots called 
upon me, by appointment, with Avhom Brother Bonatz 
and I wished to confer, relative to the best situation in 
the interior for a third mFssionary settlement. They 
proposed an examination of the banks of the Chamtoos- 
Revier in Uitenhagen district, where they mentioned a 
place formerly occupied by Hottentots, and abounding 
with wood and water. It was also their opinion, that 
several suitable situations might be found on that river, 
and many Hottentots from Gnadenthal would be willing 
to remove into that part of the colony. We determined 
to visit some of the most intelligent farmers in the neio-h- 
bouring country, and consult them about the best means^ 
of making a journey into the interior. 

Being desirous of penetrating as far as possible into 
the kloof, the missionaries Thomsen and Lemmerz accom- 
panied me into it, this afternoon, and as we were new- 
comers, we enjoyed all the pleasure expectation affords, 
in making a journey of discovery. We arrived at the 
spot where the kloof is divided by three round^topped 
hillocks, which are partially covered with brush-wood. 
The brown-red rocks, on all sides, have a singular ap- 
pearance, their layers inclining chiefly from east to west. 

We turned to the right along the brook, which flow? 
under hanging rocks, shelving forwards to a considera- 
ble height, and scrambled along, through thick bushes, 
and over huge masses of stone, till we were stopped by 
the quantity of water, rushing in numberless cascades 
between them, in all directions. Here are some very 
picturesque groups of brush-wood, rock, and water. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 83 

which would furnish interesting subjects for the pencil 
of an able artist. 

In the evening, I spent a very agreeable hour with 
Father Marsvclcl, whose instructive conversation I de- 
light to enjoy. H^ gave me a detailed account of the 
troubles which he and his two worthy associates expe- 
rienced, in the beginning of their labours in this desert^ 
till God sent the English to put a stop to the opposition 
of evil-disposed people. These misguided men went so 
far as to hand about a paper, to be signed by the neigh- 
bouring farmers, by which they should bind themselves 
not to supply the missionaries with the necessaries of 
life, which, at that early period, they could not procure 
otherwise than by^purchase. Some refused to sign the 
paper, and others were raised up by God to become 
their friends. He will reward them for the cup of cold 
water given to His servants in that day. 

I spent the 1st of February chiefly at home. In 
the afternoon, while I was drawing by the help of the 
camera obscura, several Hottentots gathered round me, 
whom I gratified by letting one after the other peep 
into it. One called to another passing by, " Come and 
peep, Susan, Mynheer has brought the churchy and all 
the trees, into his box*" 



CHAPTER jV. 

Visit to Messieurs Tennis^ senior and junior^ and to Mr. 
Linde. Account of a Funeral. Consultations regarding 
a reconnoitring journey into the interior. A Hottentot 
garden described. Journey to Groenekloof. JYight spent 
in the Wilderness. Arrival at Groenekloof. Excessive 
heat. Storm of Thunder. Birthday. Transactions at 
Capetown. Mr. Melville. Visit to Kerstenbosch^ and 
to JVewlands. Return to Gnadenthal. Uncertain de- 
pendence on African hospitality. Fires on the Mountains. 
JYursery of young trees. Gravestones. Singing of the 
Hottentot women. Hottentot Clans. Visit the boundary 
of the Settlement. Brother Bonatz'^s farewell. Instance 



84 JOURNAL Oii' A 

of good discipline. Arrival of Brother Schnitt and Mr. 
Melville^ at Gnadenthal. Preparations for the recon- 
noitring journey. 

February 2nd. Brother Bonatz, Brother Clemens and 
his wife, Sister Kohrhammer, and I, set out on a visit to 
some farmers, who, being acquainted with the interior, 
could give information respecting the Chamtoos-Revier, 
and other situations proposed to me as suitable for a 
third settlement. Our equipage was a covered wagon, 
drawn by ten hired oxen, with a driver and leader. We 

Eassed the Bavians-Revier, and turned up the heathy 
ills, behind the Caffre-Kraal, towards Stoflfels-KraaL 
Brother Bonatz walked with me to an eminence, from 
which I could overlook a great part of the boundary of 
Gnadenthal. There is indeed, to appearance, a suffi- 
cient quantity of land, for every purpose of culture and 
pasturage ; but of four thousand acres, granted to the 
Brethren by Government, the greater part is barren, 
and incapable of cultivation ; or at least of that descrip- 
tion, that the expense required to make it fit for use, 
would be much greater than we could well afford. Stof- 
fels-Kraal is an ancient Hottentot station, but now for- 
saken. There is, however, some good land along a 
small gully, now dry. From hence we went to the farm 
of a widow, Mrs. Giebeler, whom we did not find at 
home. It is, like most farms in this neighbourhood, an 
assemblage of mean houses and sheds, but the planta- 
tions are fine, consisting of large peach orchards, and 
gardens, surrounded by avenues of firs, and of groves of 
various kinds of trees. This place likewise belonged to 
a tribe of Hottentots, but was taken from them, by a 
species of robbery, very common in former days, when 
for a few bottles of brandy, or some other trifling con- 
sideration, the best lands in their possession were pur- 
chased of them ; and the Hottentot captain, perhaps in 
a state of intoxication, led to some magistrate, by whom 
the shameful bargain was ratified. The poor fellow did 
not come to his senses till it was too late, when he per- 
ceived with dismay how he had suffered himself and his 
people to be duped. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 83 

Our road now led through a barre'n country. In 
about three hours we arrived at the Sieckenhaus, the 
residence of Mjnheer Teunis senior. It was interesting 
to me to see and converse with this man, who, at the 
commencement of the mission, rendered essential ser- 
vices to the three Brethren, till their unexpected success 
in collecting a congregation of Hottentots made him, for 
a season, a dangerous enemy. He is however again 
considered as a friend, and received us with cordiahty. 
He seemed pleased, when I informed him, that ever 
since the renovation of the mission, I had been well ac- 
quainted with his name and services, when, by orders 
from the Dutch Governor, in 1792, he first brought the 
missionaries to Bavians-Kloof, and lodged them in his 
house, at Soete Melks Valley, till they could put up a 
cottage for themselves. Though upwards of seventy 
years old, he is full of activity, of a very intelligent 
mind, and seemed interested in all that passes here and 
in Europe. 

On consulting him about the best place for a third set- 
tlement, he recommended an examination of the banks, 
both of the Chamtoos, and Kierbooms Reviers, and 
named several situations, the advantages of which he 
enumerated. 

Wo trees or hedges adorn his pre,mises, except four 
small oaks behind, and two Chinese rose-trees before the 
house. The river Sonderend flows in the vale, but its 
waters, in this dry season, are hid from view by large 
shrubs, brush-wood, broom, and reed-grass, growing in 
its very bed. The view of the mountains is grand, and 
makes amends for the melancholy appearance of the 
plain. 

After dinner, we set out for Mr. Linde's farm, lying like- 
wise on the Sonderend. A sudden change of weather 
had taken place. Clouds began first to hover above, 
then to obscure, the highest peaks, and gradually to en- 
velop the whole range of mountains. We hastened 
therefore to get under shelter, and after a short visit to 
Mr. Teunis's son Jan, reached Mr. Linde's house, just 
before the rain came on. It lies not far from the river 
Sonderend, which, in mobt places, ip hid by bushes. I 



86 JOURNAL OF A 

had expected to iind a man, formerly in the employ of 
Government, as a commander of Hottentots in the Caf- 
fre war, a Veldcornet, and justly esteemed as a truly 
respectable character throughout the country, inhabit- 
ing a well-built mansion, and I was preparing a hand- 
some apology, for not appearing in full dress, till I saw 
his miserable cottage and its homely furniture. But Afri- 
can and English ideas, of the necessity of suiting your 
appearance to your rank, widely differ, and a man of 
consequence is here not less respected for the shabbi- 
ness of his attire, or the wretched and ruinous state of 
his house and premises. 

Brother Bonatz was highly diverted at my disappoint- 
ment, especially when, Mr. Linde not having returned 
from his fields, our reception seemed rather dry. As 
-soon, how^ever^ as he entered, though clad in an old 
jacket and trowsers, and barefoot, the ease and urbani- 
ty of his manners, and the kindness with which he press- 
ed us to spend the night at his house, showed him in his 
true character, as a well-bred, intelligent >gentleman. 
He had already one guest, and a farmer from the south 
arriving^ he gave him also a friendly invitation, though 
the size of the cottage did not seem to furnish accommo- 
dations for so many. Some black coffee without milk, 
as is here the fashion, was handed round, and we soon 
entered into conversation respecting the aim of our 
visit. 

Mr. Linde seemed exactly to coincide in opinion with 
Mr. Tennis, as to the country on the Chamtoos-Revier, 
but did not advise us to attempt a settlement on the 
Kierbooms-Revier. He was not well disposed towards 
the Caffres, but described them as a people without faith, 
to whom the British Government showed undeserved 
lenity. 

The rain ceasing for sometime, after sunset, I walked 
with Brother Clemens to the river, and found the rocky 
banks to consist of the same ferruginous sand-stone, 
which abounds every where. Here and there, it seemed 
to rest on a bed of a species of slate or Thonschiefer, of 
a blue-gray colour. 

At supper, no beverage of any kind was on the table, 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 87 

and our host informed us, that he never drank either 
beer, wine, or spirits, but only water. I therefore called 
for water, when the slave-girl in waiting brought me a 
slop-basin full, no glass being used in this house. The 
supper was abundant, and well dressed. The conver- 
sation turned upon some of the beasts of prey haunting 
this country, when the Southland farmer gave an ac- 
count of the depredations lately committed by wolves 
and wild-dogs, in his neighbourhood, the latter being 
numerous between the mountains and the coast. Ty- 
gers are not often seen; they skulk about the cattle- 
kraals, and in the woods, but wolves roam singly, all 
over the downy or heathy country. The wild-d'ogs go 
in packs, are very bold and mischievous, and will attack 
oxen, horses and sheep, in spite of watchmen and dogs. 
Both they and the wolves attack always either from be- 
hind, or in flank, never in front, as a tyger does. Ser- 
pents are more dangerous to man. Mr. Linde related, 
that a wood-keeper he employed in the kloofs, had late- 
ly lost his life by the bite of a Berg-adder. He died be- 
fore notice could reach his master, and assistance be 
sent, which was in about three hours. Not long since, 
one of his oxen was bitten, on the road, by a Puff-adder, 
and died the same night. The bite of the Nachtschlange,. 
or night-serpent, is said by the Hottentot poison-doctors 
to be incurable. It is a beautiful creature, marked with 
dark blue or black, vermillion and yellow rings, follow- 
ing each other from head to tail. 

Some time after supper, the ladies retired, but Brother 
Bonatz and I received still much entertainment and infor- 
mation from our host and his guests, who were sensible, 
pleasant companions, till at length we requested to be 
shown into our bed-room. In passing through an ante- 
chamber, we found a Dutch folio bible, and a testament 
in octavo, lying on the wnndt)w-seat. Both had been 
used, the latter some time ago, for it had lain so long 
with the leaves upon the boards, that the opened pages 
had assumed the colour of the wood. As for the bible- 
one use of long prefaces, introductory exhortations, and 
other prolegomena, with which these ancient editions 
abound, was here rendered manifest, for thev had saved 



88 JOURNAL OF A 

the text of the Scriptures itseh", as some of the family had 
torn out the greater part both of the first and last leaves, 
and had not yet reached either Genesis or the Revela- 
tions, the latter beuig defended by a translation of Jose- 
Ehus's account of the destruction of Jerusalem. Thus 
y a timely remonstrance, I hope the bible itself has 
been saved. It was furnished with very good prints, in 
the old Dutch style of engraving. 

On entering the bed-room, how great was my astonish- 
ment, now to discover, how our hospitable landlord had 
provided for so many guests ! We found Brother Clem- 
ens and his wife, lying in one, Sister Kohrhammer in 
another, and a bedstead for us, in a third corner of the 
room. A square hole in the wall served for a window. 
A savoury supper, without any thing to drink, had crea- 
ted sufficient thirst to keep our friends awake. They 
were eagerly expecting our arrival, as Brother Bonatz 
had the key of the wagon-chest, who was now called up- 
on to administer a draught of wine and water to each of 
the party. Trying to open the shutter for air, it fell out, 
and as we could not leave the square hole open, for fear 
of a visit from some of the numerous dogs, which guard- 
ed the pren)ises, I had some trouble in recovering and 
fastening the shutter again. These operations, and the 
amusement occasioned by the remarks made on the ac- 
commodations afforded in the mansion of an African 
'squire, kept us some time awake, and when at last I at- 
tempted to join my friend in his narrow couch, I found it 
utterly impossible. I therefore put on my boots and 
great coat, and sitting on the bed, leaning my head 
against the wall, got a very sound nap. To complete our 
happiness, we were all night serenaded by the cries of 
Mrs. Linde's children, in an adjoining apartment; and 
roused early in the morning by the dying screams of a 
poor pig, which, as we were afterwards informed, was 
butchered to provide us with a good breakfast. This 
was the first time I had spent a night in the enjoyment 
of African hospitality, and Brother Bonatz assured me, 
of what I was in the sequel sufficiently convinced, that it 
was much better than I had to expect, when travelling 
into the interior. We were greeted by our cheerful host 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 89 

in the morning, with his hopes that we had found our- 
j^elves comfortably lodged, and which we could answer 
in the afTirmative without hypocrisy, for his good will, 
and desire to please us, made every thing bearable. 

He provided us with an excellent breakfast, broiled 
pork, omelets, eggs, tea and coffee, with milk and grapes 
m abundance, and though custom has excluded attention 
to what Englishmen call the comforts, yet there seems to 
be no want of the necessaries of life, and no feehng of 
inconvenience attending the absence of neatness, and 
elegance. We took leave of Mr. Linde, with sentiments 
of gratitude and esteem, having obtained from him suffi- 
cient information respecting the country I was about to 
visit, and proceeded to Gaense-Kraal, which at some dis- 
tance appeared very inviting with groves of lofty oaks 
and pines. We forded the Sonderend close to the farm, 
but on entering, found the building in a very dilapidated 
state, and the gardens much neglected. Sister Kohrham- 
mer was also here unsuccessful, in her endeavours to 
procure some articles of house-keeping, for Gnadenthah 

We admired the oaks growing on these premises. 
They are an additional proof, that had the first settlers 
been attentive to the growth of timber, both for their 
own and their children's sake, they would now have had 
timber and fuel sufficient, and not been under the neces- 
sity of fetching the former from Plettenberg-bay, and 
the Zitzikamma, and of stripping the country of its 
bushes, to procure the latter. 1 am convinced, from the 
experience made at Gnadenthal, and many other places, 
that whole forests of oak and other useful timber, might 
be reared in a short space of time, wherever the soil re- 
tains any moisture. But it appears as if neither the first 
settlers nor their descendants had the least notion of 
providing for posterity. Many answers given to me by 
boors, otherwise intelligent, proved that their only 
thought is, " What shall we eat ? What shall we drink, 
and wherewith shall we be clothed ? How shall we in- 
crease our herds of cattle, and leave to our children a 
set of fine beasts." 

Mr. Teunis senior, who is one of the ^most sensible 
and shrewd men I have seen in this country, very ironi- 

12 



90 JOURNAL OF A 

cally described the indolent life of the common African 
boors, in answer to some observations I made on the 
possibility of improving the cultivation of the country. 
•^ What,*" said he, " would you have us do ? We have 
nothing to do, but to till our bellies, to get good clothes, 
and houses ; to say to one slave, do this, and to another, 
do that, and ourselves to sit idle, and be waited on ; and 
as to our mode of tillage, or building, or planting, our 
forefathers did so and so, and were satisfied, and why 
should not w^e be the same. The English want us to 
use their ploughs, instead of our heavy wooden ones, 
and recommend other implements of husbandry than 
those we have been used to, but we like our old things 
best." 

From Gaense-Kraal, w^e proceeded to Soete-Melks- 
Valley, and Hartebeest-Kraal, the farm of Mr. William, 
Teunis. As we approached this place, the chain of 
mountains to the right assumed an appearance singular- 
ly romantic and beautiful. They are chiefly huge 
masses of rock, extremely rugged and precipitous, full 
of kloofs, and chasms, within which, upon but a scanty 
portion of soil, trees grow to a considerable height. 
The sides of the mountains, in many places, look like 
immense walls, supported by conical buttresses. 

Mr. William Teunis is an intelligent man. He had 
been employed as a commandant in the wars, both 
against the Catfres, and the rebellious boors, but seemed 
cautious in giving his opinion respecting the cause of the 
rebellion. 

An old schoohnaster, who attended his children, hear- 
ing that we were lovers of music, treated us with some 
pieces on the violin. We obtained here likewise some 
useful information, and after dinner, set out for Gnaden- 
thai. Our driver, Paul, set his oxen a-going at a rate I 
had nevei; yet seen. Ten of these long-horned animals 
in full gallop is a sight truly ridiculous. About eight 
in the evening, we reached our home. Here we heard, 
that a tyger had been seen behind Brother Leitner's 
garden, at the entrance of the kloof, and that a great 
many Hottentots, armed with guns and other weapons, 
had gone in search of him, but in vain. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 91 

4th. After the forenoon's service, and the baptism of 
A child, we attended the funeral of a poor Hottentot 
woman. 1 guess the company that followed her re- 
mains to the grave to have been about three hundred 
in number. The Hottentot mode of burying in our 
settlement is this : The corpse being neatly tied or sow- 
ed up in skins, is laid on a bier, and covered with a 
white sheet. The bier is borne by six men, members of 
the congregation, dressed in white jackets and trowsers. 
After the funeral-discourse, as soon as the people have 
arranged themselves in front of the church, a verse is 
sung, treating of the happiness of those who have de- 
parted this life in the faith of Christ. The boys' school 
begins the procession, then follows the minister, prece- 
ding the corpse, the relations next, and lastly, the rest 
of the congregation two and two; the men or women ta~ 
king the lead, according to the sex of the deceased. As 
soon as the company arrive at the burial-ground, the 
bier being placed next to the grave, the congregation 
range themselves around the ground in order. The 
Liturgy at burials is then read, during w^hich, two of the 
bearers, descending into the grave, receive the body from 
those above, and place it in a recess, made on one side, 
at the bottom. The service being concluded, bushes or 
branches of trees are put in as high as the top of the re- 
cess, and the earth thrown in upon them. Of the origin 
of this custom 1 could obtain no information, but as it is 
done w^ith the greatest decency, the missionaries have 
wisely refrained from obliging the Hottentots to discon- 
tinue the practice of making a recess, and using the 
branches or bushes. Europeans are buried in the man- 
ner usual in Europe, and the service and liturgy are the 
same. In the evening-meeting of the whole missionary 
family, I communicated some recent letters from our 
Brethren in Greenland. 

5th. At a special conference, we took into serious con- 
sideration, the measures to be adopted in making a re- 
connoitring journey into the interior, and my proposal to 
take Brother Schmitt and his wife, of Groenekloof, and 
one of the two single Brethren Lemmerz or Stein with 
me, was approved, I had made some experience of 



92 JOURNAL OP A 

Cape travelling, sufficient to discover that it is no luxury ; 
but I came thither to serve the mission, and not to seek 
my ease. I therefore gladly entered upon this service, 
though the only plan, w^hich we could form at present^ 
w^a&, to take our own wagon and oxen, and to purchase 
an additional spann, in the interior, to help us along. It 
will be seen by the narrative of that journey, that, by 
God's gracious providence, we were enabled to per- 
form it on a plan much more eligible and effective ; with- 
out which, indeed, all our contrivances would have been 
rendered abortive. Thus committing our case and our- 
selves to His care and guidance, we are sure to be di- 
rected in the best way. 

I resolved to go in a few days to Groenekloof, and 
both there, and at the Cape, to make the needful ar-^ 
rangements, and obtain His Excellency the Governor's 
permission and sanction. In the afternoon, I was busily 
employed in making a drawing of the missionaries' premi-^ 
ses from the hill to the right, coming out of the kloof, 
having lately found a situation from which I could see 
some part of every building belonging to them. 

In the evening. Father Marsveld, after a suitable dis- 
course, offered up a fervent prayer for the prosperity of 
the work of God on earth, particularly among the hea- 
then, the Brethren having here followed the practice of 
other missionary societies in England and Holland, to 
meet for this purpose every first Monday in the month. 

6th. I attended the instructions given by Father Mars- 
veld to a person who was to be confirmed, previous to 
her admission to the Lord's supper. I was greatly edi* 
fied and affected by the simplicity, cordiality and genuine 
piety with which this venerable man imparted his in- 
struction to the candidate, as well as with the attention 
and devotion with which she received it. At the con- 
clusion, he offered up a fervent prayer in her behalf, and 
both he and his wife added some suitable exhortations 
respecting her future walk and conversation, as a wor- 
thy communicant, and child of God. 

In the afternoon. Brother Lemmerz accompanied me 
to the hill on the other side of the Bavians-Revier, and 
to the garden-grounds belonging to the Hottentots. A 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 93 

little man, very ill dressed, beckoned to us, inviting us to 
come into his cottage and grounds. From his appear- 
ance, I guessed him to be one of those, who were either 
too poor or too indolent to provide better for themselves 
and their families. I was therefore preparing to impart 
some friendly exhortation, when, on stepping within the 
outer fence, to my surprise, I saw a hiedge neatly cut 
aud trimmed, with a small gate, through which he show- 
ed us into one of the best cultivated gardens I have yet 
seen in the settlement. It was divided into squares, with 
borders of Indian corn, each square containing a differ- 
ent kind of produce, beans, potatoes, cabbages, or other 
vegetables. The orchard was well stocked with peach, 
apricot, pear, and apple-trees, in abundance. The cot- 
tage was mean, and his children almost naked. On in- 
-quiry, I found, that he was very poor, and had only one 
suit of decent clothing, with which the family appeared, 
on the Sundaj^s at church. His name was Benjamin 
Okkers. 

To-day, I received a letter from Mr. Melville, Go- 
vernment-surveyor at the Cape. This was the com- 
mencement of an acquaintance, which in the sequel 
proved a most valuable acquisition, and will always be 
considered by me, as one of those unforeseen channels, 
by which God, in His providence, conveys mercies unto 
us, and grants success to whatever we undertake, ac- 
cording to His will. 

7th. Two Hottentot women called upon me, purpose- 
ly to inquire about the son of their late beloved teacher. 
Father Kuehnel, now at Fulnec in Yorkshire. I gave 
them every information in my power, and having a print 
of Fulnec with me, showed th^m the school, the windows 
of the room in which he lived, of the room in which I 
was born, and the chapel, which highly delighted them. 
I was surprised to find them not at all puzzled by a re- 
presentation of this kind. They proved, that they un- 
derstood the picture, by asking many sensible questions^ 
showing more intelligence than a boor, who lately on 
seeing an " Ecce homo^''^ (a picture of Christ, crowned 
with thorns,) in Father Schwinn's room, inquired, whe- 



94 JOURNAL OP A 



^ 



ther it was a picture of the English Governor at the 
Cape. 

In the evening-meeting, Brother Bonatz mentioned 
niy intended journey to the Cape, and in prayer com- 
mended me and my company to tlie protection and bless- 
ing of God. 

8th. At four in the morning, the whole family was at 
breakfast, soon after which 1 set out on horseback, ac- 
companied by their best wishes for a prosperous jour- 
ney. My companion was Brother Lcmmerz, and my 
groom, Solomon Pfeifter, a very steady and trust-worthy 
Hottentot, with a led horse to carry a portmanteau. I 
did not feel quite well, and the missionaries, having 
charged Solomon to take all possible care, that I receiv- 
ed no harm, he was almost troublesome with his anxieties 
about the safety of my person. Perceiving, however, 
that 1 meant to ride more soberly than a Hottentot, who 
is always in fidl gallop, he observed, that unless Mynheer 
used more speed, we should not reach Mr. Alexan- 
der:^ larm, beyond Hottentot-Hollands-Kloof, where he 
thought I meant to spend the night. But, as the wea- 
ther was intensely hot, I had no intention of murder- 
ing either myself or our horses, but kept on an easy 
pace. 

After passing Klemms' farm, we met Brother Leitner 
returning with his wit'e from the warm-baths. We all 
alighted, and spent a quarter of an hour together in con- 
versation. Our lirst halt was at a farm, belonging to a 
Mr. Joorst. The heat grew almost intolerable, and we 
were glad to retire into any kind of shade ; not a tree or 
bush artbrding any delence, against the burning rays of 
the sun during the whole journey. The farm, like most 
others, is a mass of ruined walls, and wretched hovels. 
The master was a paralytic old German, painfully striv- 
ing to make himself intelligible to Brother Lemmerz, 
and by the help of his son, as interpreter, to satisfy his 
eager curiosity about the politics of the day and the fate 
of nations, which seemed grievously to trouble the poor 
man's brains, and set his lame tongue to work. He had 
been a sailor on board a Dutch" Indiaman, some fit>y 
years ago. His son was a friendly, hospitable man, an^ 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 95 

a shoemaker by trade. Some hints, given by my worthy 
companion, relating to the necessity of his becoming, in 
his present infirm state, better acquainted with the 
things of Heaven, than those of the earth, were neither 
understood nor taken. We left him with emotions of 
sincere compassion. 

After a \evy hot ride over the barren desert, we 
reached a farm on the Botte-Revier, where f soon recog^ 
nised the possessor to be my old friend, whom Sister 
Clemens and I had visited on our journey to Gnaden- 
thal. (p. 5/).) Hither we had sent relay horses which 
were ready to carry us forward. But I was in no hur- 
ry to proceed, and had serious doubts, whether exposing 
myself longer to the rays of the sun were not sporting 
with my health, for by the time we reached this place, I 
felt quite overcome with heat and fatigue. 

Our host, however, treated us with so excellent a dish 
of tea, which, as he said, had been given him by an En- 
glish traveller some days ago, that it greatly revived my 
spirits, and a plate of fine grapes completed my recovery. 
Having forded the bed of the river, in which there was 
hardly a few inches depth of water, we reached the foot 
of a long hill called the Haue Hoek, where the English 
have established a turnpike, to cover the expense of 
mending the road across the mountain, which formerly 
was \ery rough and dangerous. We had resolved to 
take up our night's lodging at a German farmer's house, 
on the east-side of the mountain, of the name of Urie, 
who keeps a kind of inn, and has good accommodations; 
but when we reached his place, as it was yet early, I was 
disposed to proceed. The road is in general pretty even, 
but bere and there carried along a steep slope, which 
makes it dangerous for a loaded wagon, if not driven 
with great care. The view of the mountains near Hot- 
tentots-Holland is grand, and the variety of their shapes 
forms a singular outline. After fording the Palmite Re- 
vier, we rode up to a farm on the waste, the appearance 
of which was not in its favour, nor did we find the master 
and mistress at home. We therefore determined on pro- 
ceeding to the next farm, belonging to a German of the 
name of Sibran. 



96 JOURNAL OF A 

He received us with a hearty welcome, and though 
every part of his premises betrayed poverty and a disre- 
gard of order, he gave us a good dish of coifee with 
milk, (a rare article in this part of Africa,) and a good 
supper : but his accommodations for sleeping were bad. 
Brother Lemmerz and I were jammed into a narrow bed- 
stead, and our Hottentot groom, contrary to the usual 
etiquette, lay down in the same room on the floor. The 
furniture of this dark chamber was in unison with gene- 
ral appearances. On a broken chair lay a quantity of 
butcher's meat, in reserve for to-morrow's dinner, when 
Mr. Sibran expected his wife and family to return from a 
journey of pleasure to Capetown. But fatigue and no 
choice, made us make the best of it, and we rested tole- 
rably well. Meanwhile, our good-humoured host did all 
in his power to amuse us, by relating the history of his 
whole life, and requesting Brother Lemmerz to examine 
one of his daughters in reading. Among his servants 
was an Englishman from Hull. 

9th. x\fter paying cheaply for our fare, we set out be- 
fore sunrise, to pass the kloof in the cool of the morning. 
The ascent from the east is rough, but not steep. The 
wildness of the scenery can scarcely be surpassed. 
Rocks of every shape, weather-beaten and worn, pointed 
and jagged, start on all sides, to a great height, one 
ridge towering above the other. They are the haunts 
of hosts of baboons ; but some wagons having just come 
up, these timid creatures had probably been frightened 
by the cracking of whips, and fled into their lurking-pla- 
ces ; for though the morning is the proper time for them 
to make their appearance, not one was to be seen. 

The prospect from the summit of the kloof, over the 
fertile grounds of Hottentots-Holland, and towards Si- 
mons' and Table-bay, is delightful. 

We continued our route, till we arrived at Mr. Dirk 
Cloete's charming place beyond Stellenbosch, where we 
dined with the family, and rested about six hours. After 
sunset we proceeded, hoping to arrive at some place of 
shelter towards midnight, or even perhaps to reach Groe- 
nekloof between one and two in the morning, before the 
moon should set. The coolness of the evening refresh- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFItlCA. 97 

ed both men and horses, and We travelled pleasantly 
till midnight, when Solomon observed, that he had lost 
the track, and feared we were taking a wrong direction* 
Fires,, occasioned by the burning of the bushes on the 
sides of the hills, illumined the horizon for some time. 
The moon set, reddened by a kind of haze, which by 
degrees spread all over the sky, and covered the lower 
ranges of hills, leaving no marks, by which we might 
discover our way in the dark. We now reached a place 
where two roads met, one taking a westerly, and the 
other a northerly direction. Solomon walked forward 
on each, and returned with very evident marks of dismay 
in his countenance. " Well, Solomon," said I, " which 
way are we to ride ?" " Ah, Sir," replied he, " I am 
lost. God must help us ! Mynheer must decide, and we 
shall be right." The roar of the sea to westward was 
now very distinct, and knowiriig, that towards that quar- 
ter we could not err, I chose the western road, on which 
we proceeded with our weary horses for some time, till 
perceiving the light of a fire, apparently at a short dis- 
tance before us, we made towards it, and after much 
anxiety, the fire appearing and vanishing by turns, as 
though it fled from us, we at length arrived at it. Here 
we found two wagons, with two slaves sleeping on the 
bare ground, to whom we were announced by the bark- 
ing of their dogs. We dismounted, and turned the 
horses loose, to seek a supper. Solomon, overjoyed at 
finding a resting-place, exclaimed, " Well, I knew, that 
the road Mynheer would choose, must be the right one, 
though he has never been here before." The slaves in- 
formed us, that we were at the Diep-Revier, and in the 
right way to Groenekloof. Brother Lemmerz and I 
kept awake, and fed the fire with bushes ; but Solomon, 
with a saddle for his pillow, lay down on the ground, 
and instantly fell asleep. It was now two o'clock, and 
we spent the following two hours in agreeable conversa- 
tion, chiefly on the mercies of the Lord shown to us dur- 
ing our whole lives, but particularly on our late voyage 
and journeys together ; (o our brethren, engaged in the 
service of this favoured mission, and to the Hottentot 
race, in sending the gospel to them, I believe His eye 

13 



98 JOURNAL OF A 

was upon us in this wilderness, and He filled our hearts 
with His love and peace. 

Our situation presented a picture worthy of the pencil 
of the most expert artist. Two men, sitting on stones 
near a fire, the blaze of which illumined the surrounding 
heath, showing, to the right, the wearj oxen belonging 
to the wagons, lying in different attitudes, and at various 
distances, and, to the left, our horses in similar positions; 
the two covered wagons in the back-ground, and the 
slaves and Solomon asleep under the bushes. After 
four o'clock, some cocks in the wagons announced the 
approaching day. Their crowing was answered by the 
yells of jackals on the waste, and shortly after, by the 
more frightful howl of a wolf, not very far off. Some 
large birds flew croaking over our heads, and joined the 
dismal concert, accompanied by other voices unknown 
to us. Never did we more gladly hail the morning's 
dawn. We v/aked our sleepy groom, saddled our horses, 
and set off before the sun had risen. At the farm of a 
friendly miller, near the Dassenberg, both we and our 
hungry beasts found some refreshment, and after two 
hours' rest, pursued our journey towards Groenekloof. 
Our arrival, about noon, was unexpected. 

This was the hottest day known for some years at 
the Cape. About two in the afternoon, Fahrenheit's 
thermometer stood at 107^^ in the shade. I found Bro- 
ther Schmitt and his wife, and Brother Stein, well, and 
willing to accompany me on the reconnoitring journey 
into the interior, according to the plan projDosed. I 
spent the remainder of the day in walking to different 
parts of the village, and visiting many of the families. 
Some of them are very poor, which the state of the cot- 
tages on the west side of the valley sufliciently declares. 
Those who, from the number of their children, or from 
age or sickness,, are not able to help themselves, are 
now and then assisted by a collection made, at stated 
times, for the relief of the poor ; but wisdom and discre- 
tion are required in the exercise of this charity, lest a 
dependence upon gratuitous help should occasion ne- 
glect, and prevent proper exertion on the part of the 
healthy. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 99 

11th. The Sunday-services were held as uswaL Groe* 
nekloof lying in the neighbourhood of large farms, Sun- 
day visiters frequently occasion interruption ; the Holy 
Communion, therefore, is here likewise celebrated in the 
evening. To the missionaries, as well as to me, the 
state of the communicant congregation here, was truly 
encouraging, as a proof, that " their labour is not in vain 
in the Lord.'' 

12th. Soon after four in the morning, I heard the 
sweet sound of Hottentot voices, singing a hymn in the 
hall before my chamber-door. It reminded me, that 
this day was my birth-day, which had been mentioned 
to them by some of the missionaries. I was struck and 
affected by this mark of their regard, nor was their 
modfe of expressing it confined to a morning-song. They 
had dressed out my chair, at the common table, with 
branches of oak and laurel, and Sister Schmitt's school 
children, in order not to be behind in their kind offices, 
having begged their mistress to mark on a large white 
muslin handkerchief, some English words, expressive of 
their goodwill towards me, they managed to embroider 
them with a species of creeper called catVthorn, and 
fastened the muslin in front of a table, covered with a 
-white cloth, and decorated with festoons of catVthorn 
and field-flowers. On the table stood five large bou- 
quets, in glasses. The whole arrangement did credit to 
their taste, for Sister Schmitt had left it entirely to their 
own invention. This table I found placed in my room 
on returning from my morning's walk. The words 
were; "May success crown every action." 

Recapitulating, within my own heart, the undeserved 
mercies of God my Saviour, experienced during the year 
past, I felt particularly grateful for the favour conferred 
upon me, to behold with my own eyes, and hear with my 
own ears, what He has wrought in this distant land for 
the accomplishment of His thoughts of peace towards 
the Gentile world. To serve such a cause, shall, by 
His enabling grace, be my heart's delight, during the 
remainder of my earthly pilgrimage. 

The excessive heat of the last days, which we had 
felt so oppressively on our journey hither, seemed to 



JOO JOURNAL OP A 

have brought into action all the electricity contained in 
the atmosphere, and already, early in the forenoon, very 
dense, black, towering clouds were seen covering the 
mountains near Stellenbosch. It thundered almost in- 
cessantly in that quarter for several hours before the 
storm rose towards us. We were at dinner, when the 
increasing darkness announced its approach, and it be- 
gan to rain violently. I scarcely ever remember to have 
seen lightning so vivid, and heard peals of thunder so 
loud, with a crackling and roaring not to be described. 
In a short time, every part of the premises was inunda- 
ted. The streams flowed in all directions, and some 
hundreds of a species of frogs, or toads, came clumsily 
hopping from the wood, and passed in procession with 
the stream across the yard to the pond in the valley. 
For above an hour and a half, there was no intermissioR 
in the fury of the tempest, after which the thunder roar- 
ed incessantly round the horizon for three hours more. 
In the evening, all was calm, the air cool and refreshing, 
the moon shone bright, and after the family had retired 
to rest, I walked by moonlight, for half an hour, on the 
raised terrace before the house, engaged in recollec- 
tions, grateful and humiliating, and closed my birth-day 
with prayer and praise to God for all his goodness to 
myself, my family, friends, and connexions. I should not 
have noticed the celebration of this day, had it not serv- 
ed to exhibit some traits in the character of the Hotten- 
tots, whose sincerity, gratitude, and attachment to their 
teachers and benefactors, and their manner of express- 
ing these sentiments, made a deep impression on my mind, 
and are more deserving of record, than the day itself. 

13th. Having been employed all day in various cor- 
respondence, Brother Schmitt and his wife agreed to ac- 
company me to Capetown, in a wagon and twelve oxen, 
leaving Brother Lemmerz and Solomon to follow us in a 
few days. 

We left Groenekloof at seven in the evening, with 
fine raoonhght, but in about an hour a fog, and cold, 
drizzling rain came on, which made us glad to take shel- 
ter in a cottage, consisting of two roofs without subja- 
cent walls, ift is built in two divisions standing in a 



VISIT TO SOUTH APRICA% 101 

right angle, and kept by a very civil couple, whose fur- 
niture showed their love of cleanliness and order. The 
weather cleared up before we arrived at Capetown. 

14th. We were received by Mrs. Disandt and her 
family with their wonted kindness, and spent the day in 
visiting friends. I was introduced to Mr. Haoimes, who 
accompanied the Rev. Mr. Campbell on his late tour to 
visit the settlements of the Missionary Society in Lon- 
don. 

15th. I called jthis morning upon Mr. Melville, Survey- 
or to Government, of whose friendly letter to me I made 
mention on the 6th. His house is situated towards the 
foot of the Duivelsberg, or Devil's hill. On communica- 
ting to him my intention of making a journey into the 
interior, he expressed an inclination to accompany me, 
at least part of the way, which, though uncertain how it 
might accord with our plans, I immediately felt disposed 
to encourage, and before I left Capetown, my companions 
most gladly concurring in the measure, we made an ar- 
rangement, by which Mr. Melville and his family were 
to follow us in a fortnight to Gnadenthal, and leaving 
Mrs. Melville and the children there, give us the pleasure 
of his company, as long as his other engagements would 
permit. I then waited on Colonel Bird, and had a long 
and satisfactory conversation with him) respecting the af- 
fairs of Groenekloof and the above-mentioned journey. 
He kindly furnished me with a list of all the loan places 
belonging to Government, situated on the Chamtoos and 
Klein Reviers. Mr. Alexander coming in, insisted on 
my accompanying him to his seat at Kerstenbosch ; and 
hoping that I might find there a favourable opportunity 
of conversing with him, as First Colonial Secretary, on 
some business, which I felt anxious to have completed, I 
agreed and went with him. Passing Newlands, we met 
Mr. Bentinck, whom Mr. Alexander prevailed upon to 
return and dine with us. The presence of this very 
agreeable gentleman prevented the conversation I had 
proposed to myself 

As wolves every now and then descend from the moun- 
tains behind the house, and pass through the premises, 
and the moon shone bright, I stood long at the window. 



102 J'OURNAL OF A 

in vain watching for them. My curiosity was punished 
with a severe cold. 

1 6th. In the morning I felt unwell, but walked before 
breakfast with Mr. Alexander into his woods, up the 
mountain. They consist of oak, chestnut, and witte- 
boom. We were engaged in a discussion on affairs of 
our establishments in this country. After breakfast, I 
went with him and his lady to town, where I found an 
invitation from the Governor to come and spend a few 
days with him at Newlands. My good friend, Mr. Hancke, 
accompanied me, but I was far from well, and could not 
much enjoy the kindness and hospitality 1 experienced. 
Some medicine, however, relieved me. 

17th. Irose, considerably recovered, and walked be- 
fore breakfast into the gardens, which are laid out in the 
Dutch style, with long avenues, covered walks, and 
square compartments surrounded with high trees, enclo- 
sing orchards and kitchen-gardens. The principal walks 
are made with a vermilion-coloured iron-stone, beat into 
gravel, or brought in that state from the mountains. 
Near the houses, are groves of oaks, planted in quincunx, 
and a labyrinth of shady paths intersecting each other. 
The house is large, with good rooms, and fitted up in the 
English taste. Looking towards it from the garden, Ta- 
ble-Mountain and the Devil's hill form a noble back- 
ground, being also here much more picturesque in their 
form than on the town-side. After breakfast. Captain 
Cloete, the Governor's Aid-de-camp, walked with me all 
over the grounds. His Excellency asked me to ride 
with him, but feeling yet somewhat feverish, I was obli- 
ged to decline it. When left alone, I took another gentle 
stroll into the wild wood under the Table-Mountain, and 
examined, or I should rather say, admired, some curious 
trees and plants, knowing nothing of the names of either 
genus or species. The witte-boom is used for fuel, being 
unfit for building, furniture, or implements of husbandry. 

Meanwhile signals, made at the signal-house on the 
Devil's hill, and shortly after a despatch, announced the 
arrival of a Dutch ship of war, with the Governor of 
Batavia, Baron de Capelle, on board. The Governor 
was therefore again obliged to postpone his intended 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 103 

journey to GrootcrPost near Groenekloof, and my vi- 
sit to Newlands was likewise shortened. I employed my 
time in writing several letters to England. 

18th. His Excellency having suffered me to claim his 
attention to some business this morning, I had the satis- 
faction of much private conversation with him, both be- 
fore and during breakfast, and experienced every mark 
of good-will in his approbation of the subjects I laid be- 
fore him, both relating to the building of a new church 
at Groenekloof, the possession of land belonging to our 
settlements, the objects of my intended expedition, and 
the gift of such unoccupied land, as I might find suitable 
for a third settlement. He promised, that letters should 
be directed to the landdrosts of Zwellendam, George, 
and Uitenhagen, to afford me every facility in my search, 
which, in the sequel, proved of the most essential service 
to me. On this occasion, I became better than ever ac- 
quainted with his Excellency's favourable disposition to- 
wards the Missions of our Church, as thev contribute to 
further the propagation of Christianity, and to introduce 
industry and civilization among a nation, hitherto con- 
sidered as the most abject and degraded part of the hu- 
man race, but whose improvement and welfare he seem- 
ed eager to promote; and I could ever after feel full 
confidence in proposing to him any plan, having these 
benefits for its object. 

As he went to town to meet the Dutch Governor, he 
proposed to send word, whether he should stay or re- 
turn, and kindly detained me. My time was well spent 
in writing and completing my journal and memorandums, 
till his return. 

19th. The Governor, attended by his son and two 
dragoons, went to town. Captain Cloete with myself 
followed in his coach. Brother Lemmerz having arriv- 
ed in town from Groenekloof, we resolved to set out on 
our return to Gnadenthal in the afternoon. It turned 
out a windy evening. After about two hours' ride 
through the sands, or Cape Downs, we hoped to find 
shelter with a farmer; but as he had no stable for our 
horses, we proceeded, and after two hours more, reach- 
ed a small farm, near the Erste Revier, where, after 



10 i JrOUIlNAL OF A 

battering for some time at doors and windows, we found 
no entrance. Total silence announced the family fled. 
We forded the river, and called at another larger farm, 
where we were assailed by ten or twelve fierce dogs, 
and heard the woman of the house bid her slave tell us, 
that, her husband being absent at Stellenbosch, she could 
not give us quarters, in which, however, she was contra-- 
dieted by her more honest servant. It was midnight, 
and our horses as well as ourselves were not much dis- 
posed to proceed. But there was no remedy. Provi- 
dentially the night was fair, and the moon shone bright. 
At one, we reached a good-looking house, from which 
we were again sent to get accommodations at a Veldcor- 
net's. We crept on, and on our arrival, a slave-girl 
openiog the door, told us, that her master and mistress 
were gone out, and had left her alone in the house; 
then banged the door in our faces. What could we do, 
but keep on our way. At two, we reached Mr. Mor- 
kel's farm at HottentotVHolland. Here a slave took 
pity on us and our beasts, provided the latter and our 
groom with good quarters and food, and showed us into 
an empty room, w^ith a plate of peaches on the table. In 
an adjoining chamber stood two empty bedsteads, on 
one of which, with my portmanteau for my pillow, I en- 
joyed some refreshing sleep for about three hours. My 
companion slept in a chair. 

20th. On rising, the family received us kindly, lament* 
ed their not having been aware of our arrival, and treat- 
ed us with a good breakfast. About seven o'clock, we 
reached Hottentot-Holland's Kloof, where Mr. Schultz, 
late of Gnadenthal, overtook and kept us company all 
day. We made halt for a few hours at Veldcornet 
Schwartz's house, and passing to the left of the great 
Haue Hoek, over a wretched-looking wilderness, de- 
scended to the Botte Revier. The many fires kindled 
on the mountains, by the burning of bushes, gave the 
country the appearance of a manufacturing district in 
England, and our imagination conjured up furnaces, 
coke-burnings, and stacks of iron-works, in the midst of 
this uninhabitable waste. By Mr. Schultz's good gui- 
dance, we forded the river safely, and found our way 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 105 

along the valley to Mr. Leroux's farm, where we were 
well received and entertained by him and his numerous 
family. 

21st. We set out before sunrise, and hastened towards 
Gnadenthal. Mr. Schultz accompanied us across the 
hills, as far as the vale of the Sonderend, when he turn- 
ed to the right. In the vale are some delightful pros- 
pects, and the mountains about the Yagersbosch are sin- 
gularly grand and picturesque. We entered Gnaden- 
thal from the west, by Robyntjes Kraal, a farm within 
the boundary of the Brethren's land, and, descending 
from the hill, were charmed with the view of the village, 
the great mountain rising majestically beyond it. When 
the Hottentots perceived us, they came out of their cot- 
tages and gardens to the road-side to bid us welcome, 
and we soon found ourselves again in the midst of our 
friends and Brethren. 

To my great satisfaction, one of the first objects that 
presented itself in riding into the missionaries' premises, 
was the foundation of the new house, laid in the best 
manner, and a number of Hottentot workmen diligently 
employed. 

We now began seriously to make preparations for the 
reconnoitring journey, and Brother Bonatz had, during 
our absence, engaged oxen and drivers. In the after- 
noon I walked out, determined not to yield to drowsiness, 
and lose any part of the short time I am favoured to re^ 
main at Gnadenthal. After all I have seen of situations 
in this country, I have found none to be compared to 
Gnadenthal for snugness, cleanliness and comfort : and 
I often felt disposed to wish that I were young, and my 
lot cast in this place, that, with full vigour of mind and 
body, I might assist in this work. 

22d. Brother Thomsen accompanied me to the nur- 
sery of young trees of various kinds, chiefly kierbooms, 
oaks, and firs, situated beyond the burial-ground. They 
seem at present to be in a thriving state, and if any de- 
pendence could be placed upon the growth of wood in 
this soil, provision is here made for timber and fuel for 
future generations. Brother Leitner then showed me 
the foundation of a school-room, which I had previously 

14 



106 JOURNAL OF A 

directed to be added to the new house, destined for the 
use of his wife, who, like her countrywoman, Sister 
Schmitt of Groenekloof, has instructed a number of Hot- 
tentot girls in working satin-stitch, which they do with 
great neatness. Thunder-storms and heavy rains pre- 
vented our meeting at the church this evening, but 
we held a conference, relating to various outward con- 
cerns of the settlement, concluding with the usual even- 
ing worship. The weather grew very boisterous to- 
wards night, with Hghtning, thunder, rain, and hail. 

23d. I was busily engaged all day, and among other 
employments, undertook to assist Brother Bonatz in 
making grave-stones for two of his children, who died 
on one day, of the hooping cough. How distressing this 
bereavement proved to the parents, no pen can describe, 
but they sought and found comfort in resignation to the 
will of God. Were it but for these effects of true reli- 
gion, how eagerly ought men to seek to become possess- 
ed of it. A heart truly devoted to, and relying upon, a 
gracious heavenly Father, can never become a prey to 
despair. 

Having been charged fifty-eight rix-dollars for a 
grave-stone from the Cape, Brother Bonatz, anxious to 
save that expense to the Mission, procured two squares 
of good sand-stone, and was endeavouring to do the work 
himself. As I had, when a boy, sometimes watched a 
mason near our school, cutting in stone, I was able to 
assist, and in due time, though but dilettanti in the art, 
we produced well-executed inscriptions, and placed the 
stones on the graves, to the great admiration of the Hot- 
tentots, with whom ability to work with the hands is far 
more highly esteemed, than any learning and labour of 
the mind. In the evening, two pair were betrothed. 
When a Hottentot wishes to marry, he mentions his in- 
tention to the missionaries, with the name of the person 
he has chosen. A time being fixed for the purpose, they 
promise each other marriage, in presence of all the mis- 
sionaries, and receive suitable exhortations respecting 
their conduct, the precepts given in the word of God 
concerning the married state, being explained to them. 
They are then recommended publicly to the prayers of 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 107 

the congregation, and, shortly after, married at the 
church, in a public meeting. 

To-day a child was drowned in the Bavians-Revier. 
Means were used for its recovery, but in vain. 

24th. After breakfast, I visited some Hottentots' gar- 
dens, which were kept in good order, and also walked 
with Brother Leitner, to see the Hottentots making un- 
burnt bricks. The clay of this country hardens to such 
a degree, that a brick made of it, and well dried in the 
sun, is more difficult to break, than many a stone. In the 
afternoon was the funeral of the poor drowned child. 
Brother Leitner delivered a very suitable discourse to 
the children, on the uncertainty of Hfe, 

When it had grown too dark to write, I sat down to 
play something on the piano-forte. Hearing a rustling 
behind me, I perceived, that three or four Hottentot girls 
had quietly entered the room, to listen to the music. I 
told them, that 1 would play for Mem, but they should sing 
forme, as I wished to ascertain, whether, by the help of 
an instrument, they would keep true to the tune, without 
sinking their voices. They then gave out, and sung 
some verses, in different tunes ; I always found them 
true to the pitch of the instrument, though every now 
and then I let them sing some lines by themselves, then 
falling in with the piano-forte, found they had not in the 
smallest degree lowered their voices. The number of 
singers gradually increased to thirty. I was pleased with 
this new proof of the naturally musical qualities of this 
nation, and was convinced, that the sinking of the voices 
at church, is only owing to bad precentors, but would bq 
prevented by an organ. 

After our evening-worship, the spirit of singing seemed 
to come upon us, and we w ere above an hour engaged in 
playing and singing verses to a variety of beautiful Ger- 
man hymn-tunes, some of which were new tome. 

To-day, a tree-serpent haunting a tree near the garden 
gate, was announced by the fiscal-bird. The bird did 
not cease calling and screaming, till the venomous rep- 
tile was discovered and killed. Two serpents of the 
same kind were shot in the garden. 

23th. About two hundred persons attended the funeral 



108 JOURNAL OF A 

of a worthy member of the congregation, who departed 
this hfe, having given full evidence of her faith in Jesus, 
and her hope of a blessed immortality* 

In the afternoon, a deputation of Hottentots came to 
request a conversation with us, about the appointment of 
a captain of the Hesqua tribe, intimating, that there was 
too much work here for only one captain of the Koop- 
man's tribe. After proposing the subject. Brother Bo- 
natz represented to them, that the captain, regularly ap- 
pointed by Government, with two resident captains, and 
a corporal to assist him, could surely manage the con- 
cerns of this village ; but that it appeared to him, as if, 
according to the fashion of the heathen, they wanted now 
to distinguish their particular clans^ by having a captain 
for each, which had, in their heathen state, produced 
nothing but quarrels. Those who now addressed us, 
were all of the Hesqua tribe. Being appealed, and de- 
sired to give my opinion of this extraordinary business, I 
did it to the following effect : 

" When I arrived among you, I expected to find here 
a family of God, who considered it their highest privilege 
to live together in true brotherly love and harmony, as 
One in Jesus, delivered and redeemed from the traditions 
received by the vain conversation of your forefathers, 
who were heathen, and knew not God and His word, but 
were left to themselves. 

" Your divisions into separate clans, attached to par- 
ticular chiefs and captains, has produced, and would again 
produce envy, jealousy, quarrels, and feuds, very unbe- 
coming Christian people. Whenever the Hottentots 
of Gnadenthal are spoken of by the members of Govern- 
ment, I rejoice to hear them praised for the quietude and 
good order prevailing among them, which make the usual 
precautions taken to preserve good order, by multiplying 
magistrates and other officers, unnecessary in this place. 
You say yourselves, that the captain's business is not in 
the village, but out of it, in securing deserters, assisting in 
the regulation of taxes, &c. and in other general affairs of 
the country. For that, he has a salary and leisure, and 
with the before-mentioned assistants, may easily accom- 
plish his task. Do you wish to be like the heathen, 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 109 

who glory in some favourite chief? Then let me tell 
you, from the history of the Jews, once the only chosen 
people of God, how it went with them when, from the 
same motive, they demanded a king.'' I then told them 
the story, and Father Marsveld added, *^ Yes, and you 
will remember, that when Samuel complained of their 
conduct to the Lord," His answer was, " they have not 
rejected Thee^ but Jlf<?," I proceeded : " Consider there- 
fore, well, what you are doing, and whether pride and 
vanity are not at the bottom of this pretence of caring 
for the better regulation of the place. If so, pray God 
to deliver you from so baneful an influence. Remember 
also, that this land would not be your dwelling-place, as 
in former times, but for your teachers. It is given to them 
for your use, and under their superintendancy and control, 
for they may dismiss any one, who transgresses the rules 
of a Christian society. But the Brethren and your 
teachers are the well-wishers of all Hottentots without 
exception. Their aim is, to collect here a living congre- 
gation of true believers, who shall walk worthy of a 
heavenly vocation, and rejoice in Him, who is the only- 
Captain of our Salvation, under whose banner we are 
all collected as one body, to whatever tribe or nation we 
belong. The Brethren never thought, nor ever can ad- 
mit of clans ; and the English Government, which has 
spared you in many ways, on account of your orderly 
and Christian conduct hitherto, will take for granted, 
that your demanding more captains proves your degene- 
racy, and requires other measures to be adopted. The 
English will hear your proposals with great disapproba- 
tion and surprise. Recollect yourselves, therefore, and 
be satisfied with present arrangements." Several Hot- 
tentots then spoke in explanation, but Father Marsveld 
proved to them, that the Koopman family were duly 
entitled to the captaincy of this place, and not the 
Hesqua. They seemed to receive the exhortations and 
even severe reproofs, given by Brother Bonatz, with 
patience and kindness, and several thanked us after- 
wards for the pains we had taken to make the matter 
^"lear to them, promising: to desist from their silly pro- 



110 JOURNAL OF A 

jects, to which they had been urged by a designing and 
crafty Hottentot in the village. 

2(ith. Brother Bonatz proposed to show me the west- 
ern boundary of the land belonging to the settlement. 
We set out in a bullock wagon, passed through 
Robyntjes Kraal, and saw a piece of land, lately ex- 
changed and given to us by Government; after which, 
mounting a poney, I rode with Brother Leitner up the 
hill towards the Ja^ersbosch, to see the boundary- 
stones, or baakens. One of them stands in a romantic 
little glen, in which, as well as in a gully on the op- 
posite mountain, there were some beautiful water-falls. 
From hence the boundary-line passes across the vale 
of the Sonderend, to the heathy and rocky hills towards 
the south, then takes an eastern direction along their 
summits, for about two English miles. The Hottentot 
captain Koopman and his corporal were with us in 
order to become acquainted with the boundary. After 
the evening-service in the church, I generally spent an 
hour with one or other of the missionaries in their own 
rooms, in pleasant and useful conversation. On these 
occasions, Father Marsveld always gave some interest- 
ing accounts of the origin of this settlement, when he 
and his two fellow labourers, Schwinn and Kuehnel, suf- 
fered many privations, and likewise much persecution, 
but most cheerfully and harmoniously went to work from 
day to day, each taking some particular part of the 
labour, as settled among themselves in friendly conver- 
sation, by which, in a short time, their cottage got built 
and furnished, their garden dug and planted, fences and 
ditches made, and that with very little assistance from 
the Hottentots. But the " joy of the Lord was their 
strength,'' and they '^ served Him with gladness.'' 

27th, I spent very busily at my desk. 

28th. In the afternoon Sister Schwinn proposed 
showing us a curious water-fall in the western division 
of Bavians-Kloof, and we made a party to follow her. 
We scrambled up a very steep and rough road, to gain 
the object of our search, fighting our way through bushes 
and bogs, till one after the other gave it up; and when 
our leader arrived at the spot, she had only one man 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. Ill 

and one woman of the party, to witness her disappoint- 
ment, in hardly finding a few drops trickling down the 
rock. However, the scramble afforded much amusement, 
and we found some refreshment provided among the 
bushes on the bank of the Bavians-Revier, where it pass- 
es under the hanging rock. I made two sketches of the 
singular rocks, in both divisions of the glen. 

29th. Mr. Bartlett, a missionary from the Missionary 
Society in London, arrived here, wishing to engage 
Hottentot drivers and leaders to accompany him into the 
Namaqua country ; but though encouraged by us, and 
even by an address of Father Marsveld to our people, in 
which he represented, that in assisting this missionary to 
proceed to his station among their countrymen, in the 
north-west part of the colony, they would be serving the 
cause of God, they very civilly declined it, on account 
of their engagements with the farmers, and the very long 
absence from their families, which the journey would re- 
quire. We therefore recommended to Mr. Bartlett, to 
endeavour to procure assistance from Groenekloof, in 
which he succeeded. 

March 1st. Brother Schmitt and his wife, and Brother 
Stein, arrived here from Groenekloof. I walked with 
Mr. Bartlett through the settlement, and visited some of 
the gardens. He was much pleased with that of Benja- 
min Okkers. We found the Caffre, Wilhelmina, sitting 
in her hut, reading a Dutch translation of the exposition 
of Christian doctrine. After breakfast, I was called out, 
to see a baboon on the hill to the right of the kloof. 
This was the first of these creatures I had seen here in a 
wild state, and a very large animal. He had approach- 
ed near the gardens, with a view to steal peaches ; but 
perceiving so many people standing to observe him, 
walked backwards and forwards, apparently not intimi- 
dated, now and then sitting down on a stone or large 
ant-hill, and surveying us. Solomon fired at him, when 
he retreated a few paces, but returned, and amused us 
for some time longer. 1 was glad that a second attempt 
to kill him did not succeed, but, on the day after, hunj:^er 
bringing him into the great garden, he was hunted down 
by dogs, and shot. 



112 JOURNAL OP A 

3d. Brother Bonatz preached his farewell sermon, 
intending to set out for Groenekloof to-morrow in the 
same wagon that had brought Brother Schmitt. The 
congregation was much affected, and yet more in the af- 
ternoon, when Father Marsveld addressed them on the 
services rendered to this Mission by Brother Bonatz, 
and commended him and his family in prayer to the 
grace and protection of our Saviour. Many were the 
tears shed by old and young. At the close of the ser- 
vice, they thanked Brother Bonatz and his wife aloud 
for their faithful labours in this place, and afterwards 
came in parties to take leave. In the afternoon, we met 
in conference, when several subjects were discussed re- 
lating both to Brother Bonatz's return to Groenekloof, 
and our journey into the interior. In the evening, seve- 
ral of us went as far as the river Sonderend, to meet 
Mr. and Mrs. Melville and their children. We found 
them near the ford, and accompanied them to the settle- 
ment, where they met with a most cordial reception from 
the whole family. 

4th. This morning, I was witness to that submissive 
attention to the directions of the missionaries, which dis^ 
tinguishes the Christian Hottentots, and always pleased 
me much. Yesterday, as we were accompanying Mr. 
Melville through the village, we heard in one oi the cot- 
tages near the road, a great cry of some child, seeming- 
ly under the lashes of an unmerciful disciplinarian. Bro- 
ther Schmitt went to see what was the matter, and to put 
a stop to any violence. When he entered the cottage, 
he found a mother lashing her daughter with a thong. 
She seemed in a great passion, hardly knowing what she 
did. He stopt her, and ordered her to come in the morn- 
ing, and show cause, why she had beaten the child. 
This morning, she came into my room, bringing her 
daughter with her, and made me understand, that she 
was the person summoned. I called Brother Schmitt, 
and by her very modest and intelligible account of the 
girl's behaviour, it was clear, that the latter well de- 
served the chastisement. We spoke, however, to the 
mother about the passionate manner in which she ad- 
ministered her correction. That she acknowledged, but 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA^ 113 

said, that it was occasioned by the girPs biting and kick- 
ing, and seeking to hurt her* The girl confessed all the 
mother had said to be true. Brother Schmitt then, in a 
fatherly manner, gave her due admonitions, and exhort- 
ed her to ask her mother's pardon in our presence, and 
to thank her for having punished her for her wicked 
conduct. This she immediately did, with many tears* 
The child being dismissed, the missionary added some 
words of advice to the mother respecting the treatment 
of her children, which she very humbly received, and of 
her own accord, begged his pardon for not having im« 
mediately on his entering her cottage, left off beating 
the child, and in her hurry, asking, who he was^ as if 
she meant to treat him with disrespect, which had never 
been her intention. She is known as a woman of very 
good character and understanding. 

It was affecting to see, with what grief the Hottentots 
parted with Brother Bonatz, his wife, and children, and 
to hear their warm expressions of gratitude for their la- 
bours of love in this congregation. After dinner, the 
wagon being ready, and the family seated, about two 
hundred Hottentots, old and young, assembled under the 
grove, sung a farewell hymn, and once more expressed 
their best wishes for them, that the Lord would bless 
and reward them. Above a hundred accompanied the 
wagon beyond the river Sonderend. 

When they were gone, we began to prepare for our 
journey in good earnest, and I finished my many letters^ 
written to Europe and the Cape, with which I was like- 
wise busily engaged on the 5th, during the whole of the 
forenoon, though continually interrupted by parties of 
Hottentots, who came to take leave, and to wish me suc- 
cess. They did it with such simplicity and sincerity, 
that, busy as I was, I could not but particularly attend 
to every one of them. Two women came, each carry-= 
ing a roll of matting, and begged that I would use them 
on the journey, for their sakes, as they had made them 
on purpose for me. I thanked them for this proof of 
their affection, informed them, that we were well pro- 
vided with this useful article, but that I would accept of 
their kind present^ and save it, to take with rne on ray 

1 5 



114 JOURNAL OF A 

return to England, where I would keep it and show it to 
my Brethren, as a token of their gratitude for having 
sent them teachers. 

The poor people were almost in ecstacy at the 
thought that the work of their hands should go across 
the great waters to their teachers' land ; nor did I suffer 
such kindness to go unrewarded. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Departure from GnadenthaL Account of the company. Man- 
ner of travelling in South Africa. Arrive at Mr. Von 
Helsland^s farm on Bock Revier. Rencontre with an en- 
raged boor. Instance of injustice. Hot Outspann. Ar- 
rival at Zwellendam. The landdrosfs hospitality. Re- 
lays. Visit to Zuurbrack. Groot- Vader'^s-Bosch. Duy- 
venhoeck'^s Revier. Mr. Piet du Preez. 

March 5th. Every previous arrangement having been 
made, as stated in the foregoing chapter, it was our in- 
tention to set off at twelve o'clock, with a view, before 
sunset, to reach the house of Mr. Von Helsland, on Bock 
Revier, a gentleman well known to Mr. Melville, where 
we might find a hospitable reception and good quarters 
for the first night. But by continual interruption, occasion- 
ed by parties of Hottentots, who came to take leave, and 
to express their good wishes and prayers, that success 
might attend us on our way, our departure was de- 
layed till two o'clock. Meanwhile, a large company 
had assembled under the grove, who joined in singing 
hymns, while we entered our wagons. Our company 
consisted of the following persons: 

C. I. Latrobe, John Melville, John Henry Schmitt and 
his wife, and John Jurgen Stein: with the Hottentots, 
Marcus Moses, Chrisjtian Hector, Jeremias Waly, Le- 
brecht Aris, Johannes Paerl, and his father, Leonhard 
Paerl. The latter had lately been re-admitted, having 
returned to Gnadenthal after long absence. Like many 
other Hottentots, he had ever been extremely fond of ro- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 115 

ving, and could not well endure to remain long in one 
place. Several years ago, hearing on his tramps some 
account of Gnadenthal, and that there the Hottentots 
were instructed in the word of God, curiosity led him to 
visit that settlement. He heard the gospel with atten- 
tion, and it pleased God to awaken his heart and show 
him the necessity of conversion. At his request, he ob- 
tained leave to live there, and as he conducted himself 
soberly, there was no intention on the part of the Mis- 
sionaries to send him away ; but he could not long bear 
to be confined, in attending to a field and garden. After 
many shorter wanderings, he absented himself for three 
whole years, and, during that time, had traversed the 
whole colony from east to west, visiting all places of 
which he obtained any information ; till at length. Weary 
of a vagabond life, he returned to Gnadenthal, and hav- 
ing anew obtained permission to reside, began seriously 
to make the concerns of his immortal soul his chief ob- 
ject. 

On account of his general knowledge of every part of 
the colony, and especially of the district of Uitenhagen, 
and the Chamtoos Revier, the Brethren recommended 
him to me as a guide, though his age rendered him unfit 
to bear any great hardships. Johannes, his son, had been 
lately baptized, and possessed not only cleverness in the 
management of our teams, but a wilHng and cheerful 
spirit. The same may be said of Marcus Moses, of 
whose good sense and steady conduct w^e had many sa- 
tisfactory proofs. All of them, indeed, deserve commen- 
dation, as well for their readiness to enter into our views, 
and to obey all our directions without murmuring, as for 
their uniformly good behaviour, by which they honoured 
the cause of the gospel, being every where known and 
observed, as samples of Christian Hottentots. 

The commission 1 had received, to make search after a 
spot of unoccupied land, for a third missionary settle- 
ment of the United Brethren, made it adviseable for me 
to take with me a man, who understood well the nature 
of the soil, and, from his knowledge of the habits of the 
Hottentots, and their mode of procuring subsistence, 
could judge better than I was able to do of tlie fitness of 



H^ JOURNAL OF A 

any place we might discover. Such a man was my faith- 
ful companion, Brother Schmitt. 

Mr. Melville, having brought his own travelling-wagon 
from Capetown, and the Gnadenthal wagon, originally 
destined for the journey, as before mentioned, proving 
too small and inconvenient, we put the baggage info the 
latter, and gave charge of it to Brother Stein, who wil- 
lingly accepted of that honourable post, and took his seat 
in the baggage-wagon. The rest of us occupied the seats 
in the lighter vehicle. 

It may not be improper, in this place, to give a more 
detailed account of the mode of travelling in South Afri- 
ca, especially as some of my readers may be surprised to 
hear, that so many arrangc^ments were required, to un- 
dertake the proposed reconnoitring journey. In Eng- 
land, indeed, or even on the continent of Europe, most 
of them would have been superfluous, as travellers find 
every where inns, provisions, and other necessaries. But 
it is far otherwise in this country. Here are no inns, and 
in those farm-houses, in which a traveller may sometimes, 
but not always, find quarters for the night, provisions are 
often scarce, and stores not to be purchased. In some, 
not even a room can be had for the party to sleep in, 
much less beds and other conveniences. Every thing ne- 
cessary for the expedition must therefore be provided, 
calculating upon the time required for it. Thus, if more 
be in company, and the journey long, a baggage-wagon 
is essentially wanted. There are no post-houses, where 
horses may be hired. Travellers must therefore have 
their own horses, or oxen. The latter are by far the 
most useful animals for travelling in this country, for no 
expense attends the feeding of them, as they pick their 
own provender in the wilderness, where they either find 
grass, or eat the tender sprout of the rhinoceros, and 
other bushes, generally refusing hay or corn, if even set 
before them : whereas, if horses or mules are employed, 
a sufficient stock of the latter must be provided. 

Many travellers sleep in their wagons, but we found 
it more comfortable to put up a tent. Cooking utensils 
are likewise necessary, as all victuals must be dressed 
jn the fields, unless it happens that a dinner or supper 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 117 

may be had at a farm-house, where the people are able 
and willing to entertain and lodge strangers. The 
roads being in many places excessively bad, stony, 
and steep, more cattle are wanted than on roads re- 
gularly made and kept in repair. There are even 
places, where more than twenty oxen must be em- 
ployed to drag the wagons up the precipitous ascent, 
and where horses would scarcely be of use. From this 
account it is plain, that arrangements, very different 
from what are required in Europe, are necessary for 
a journey in South Africa. 

A team or set of oxen or horses put to a wagon, 
is called by the Dutch a Spann^ and those places in 
the wilderness, where halt is made and the oxen un- 
yoked, an Outspann-place. As this is a convenient word 
for the purpose, I am glad to be authorized by the 
journals of other EngUsh travellers, to retain it. The 
oxen are left, from two to four hours, to seek their food 
and get rest, while the travelling party cook their vic- 
tuals and take their meals. 

Since farms have multiplied, the situation and bounda- 
ries of outspann-places have been appointed by Govern- 
ment, generally near some river or spring, as the want 
of water injures the oxen more than the want of proven- 
der. A loaded wagon requires from twelve to sixteen 
oxen, and a light travelling wagon, from eight to twelve. 
Besides the Hottentot driver, who, sitting on the box, 
directs the whole spann, without reins, merely by means 
of his long whip, there is always a man, or sometimes 
only a little boy, employed as a leader. (See p. 38.) The 
heathen Hottentots have no mercy upon their draught 
oxen, and the skin of most of them is cut in all directions 
by their whips, so as to present to the eye the resem- 
blance of net-work. They drive and ride their horses 
and mules, with equal want of feeling, and it is well for 
them that the Cape horses are a very hardy race. Nor 
is it without much teaching, even after they have become 
Christians, that they are convinced of the impropriety 
of such usage of dumb animals, and learn that Christian 
lesson " Be ye merciful, as your heavc/nly Father also 
is merciful," Luke vi. 36. '^ A righteous man regardeth 



118 :tournal of a 

the life of his beast, but the tender mercies of the wicked 
are cruel," Prov.xii. 10. We took three saddle-horses 
with us, to be used, as occasion might require, in ex- 
amining the country. 

Thus equipped, we proceeded with tolerable speed. 
About one hundred and fifty Hottentots, who accompanied 
us out of Gnadenthal across the hills, left us in parties, 
repeating their farewell benedictions. Mrs. Melville and 
her family went with us as far as Mr. Von Helsland's 
farm, on Bock Revier, which we had hoped to reach in 
six hours, but we were full ten hours on the road. The 
moon had set before we arrived, but, late as it v^^as, we 
found the family prepared to receive us in the most hos- 
pitable manner. 

6th. About sunrise, the whole company assembled, 
with our worthy host, under the shade of some oaks, 
before the door. The morning-haze proclaimed a hot 
day, and we determined to stay here till towards 
evening, when generally a cool breeze springs up, and 
the moon favoured our proceeding during the nignt. 

Mr. Von Helsland's estate is well cultivated, and has 
abundance of wood and water. Timber is found in the 
kloofs or narrow glens, intersecting the high range of 
mountains, which here have a very rugged and romantic 
appearance. 

While we were at dinner, the infant daughter of a 
relation of the family, who had been long ailing, unex- 
pectedly died in the nurse's arms. This event threw 
the ladies into great agitation, nor did Mr. Von Hels- 
land's kind and consoling exhortations to resignation 
seem to have much effect. They all retired to their own 
rooms, and we were very sorry not to be able to ex- 
press our gratitude, both for the kindness and hospitality 
with which we had been entertained, and for a consider- 
able present of grapes, apples, dried peas and beans, 
fowls, tongues, and other provisions, which, by Mr. Von 
Helsland's orders, had been conveyed into the wagons 
for our use. 

Mr. Von Helsland is a native of Flanders. Having 
spent the early part of his life at college, and travelled 
into various parts of Europe, he made several voyages 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 119 

to the East Indies and the Cape, as Captain of a Danish 
East-India-man, and, after a life of great activity and 
usefulness, settled in this country. He is a man of the 
most polished manners, speaks English fluently, and can 
converse in German, Danish, and Latin, with ease. The 
family spend the summer on his farm, but in winter re- 
side at Capetown. 

About five o'clock in the afternoon, we took ^eave of 
our kind host, and leaving Mrs. Melville and her chil- 
dren to spend some time with the family, previous to 
her taking up her abode at Gnadenthal, during Mr. 
Melville's absence, we left Bock Revier, forded the 
river Sonderend, and travelled, with a bright moon 
to light us on a good road, till ten at night, when, 
for the first time, we pitched our tent on the waste, 
cooked our supper, and having commended ourselves to 
the protection of God, slept well on our mattresses, till 
half past five in the morning. 

7 th. We had not proceeded far, before we were stop- 
ped by a boor on horseback. He came on full speed, 
jumped off his horse close to our wagon, shook hands 
with each of the party, and observed, that we had a 
Hottentot with us, Lebrecht Aris, who was bound by a 
regular contract made with him, to come and work at 
his farm, immediately after New-year, but had not made 
his appearance. Brother Schmitt ordered Lebrecht to 
come forward. The boor no sooner saw him, than his 
whole countenance changed from affected friendliness, 
to that of an infuriated demon. He began to rave at the 
poor Hottentot, without permitting him to utter a word 
in his own defence. Never in my life have I heard 
Dutch spoken with such fluency. As his rage increased 
with every sentence, the guttural sounds of that elegant 
language seemed to proceed deeper and deeper from 
the bottom of his throat. At length, almost breathless 
with exertion, he turned to Brother Schmitt, and de- 
manded whether he would give up the man. On beino- 
answered in the negative, he mounted his horse, and gal^ 
lopped off to the Veldcornet's house, which lay in sight 
and near the road. We followed quietly, and Brother 
Schmitt going up to the door with Lebrecht, the Veld- 



120 JOURNAL OF A 

cornet, on examination, being doubtful as to the validity 
of the contract, thought proper to suffer the Hottentot to 
accompany us, but promised the boor, that after our re- 
turn, he might claim his services. Poor Lebrecht stood 
dumbfounded, nor would the boor suffer him to speak. 
It was to us a very unpleasant adventure, not only be- 
cause it occasioned delay, but as the character of our 
Hottentots was implicated. 

This instance, however, was one among many, which 
shows the injustice sometimes done to these poor people, 
if left without protection to the mercy of the boors ; and 
here it may be proper to anticipate, by giving an expla- 
nation of the business, as it appeared, on examination, 
before the landdrost of Zwellendam, on our return. 

Lebrecht Aris owed twelve dollars to a farmer, in 
the neighbourhood of Gnadenthal, and not having tke 
means to pay, engaged with the boor above mentioned 
to work six months on his farm, at two dollars per month 
and his cost, on condition that the boor should imme- 
diately discharge his debt. He had worked two months, 
when his creditor again called on him, and threatened 
him with imprisonment, unless he immediately paid the 
twelve dollars. In his distress, he applied to a mission- 
ary, who lent him the money, for the payment of which 
he received a regular receipt from his creditor. This 
receipt the poor man had in his pocket, but being nearly 
frightened out of his senses, by the violence of the boor's 
behaviour, he forgot to produce it at the Veldcornet's. 
After discovering the boor's neglect to fulfil his engage- 
ment to pay his creditor, he now not only refused to 
work any longer with so faithless an employer, but had 
a demand upon him for four dollars, being two months' 
pay. The boor, however, most unjustly insisted on his 
serving him the remaining four months, under pretence 
of a contract. But no written agreement having been 
made and signed, in presence of a Veldcornet, which is 
required to bind a Hottentot to his employer, for any 
stated time, the Veldcornet discharged him for the pre- 
sent, without further explanation, Lebrecht, after re- 
covering liis spirits, stated his case satisfactorily to us, 
and on our return, I submitted it to the landdrost of 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 121 

Zwellendam, who sent a proper reproof to the unjust 
boor. 

Near this place, we first met with the great thorn- 
bush, a mimosa, with which many parts of the country 
are nearly covered. It has thorns from four to six inches 
long. They are placed two and two, in an obtuse 
angle, of about ninety degrees ; out of the inner centre 
of which proceeds, from a bud, a number of small pinnat- 
ed leaves, resembling the acacia. The flower is yellow, 
and consists of a great number of small leaves placed in 
a globular form. The shape of the tree is very ele-- 
gant. 

After a hot ride, we pitched our tent upon a wast^ 
called Storm's Valley, near the banks of the Sonderend, 
without a tree to screen us by its shade from the burning 
rays of the sun. Before us appeared some of the lower 
class of hills, through which a gap admits the river Son- 
derend to unite with the Breede Revier. The heat was 
almost insupportable, and the inside of the tent like an 
oven. All the butter melted, and on attempting to finish 
some sketches, the colour dried instantly on the paper*> 
without permitting any washing. I found at length the 
inside of the wagon the most comfortable retreat, where 
I continued writing my diary, though the ink dried so 
fast within my pen, that I could hardly proceed. About 
six in the evening, we left this place, which, by way of 
distinction, we called the Hot Out-spann, and after tra- 
velling for some time along the low hills above mention- 
ed, crossed the Breede Revier by moonlight. Its banks 
are covered with wood and bushes, and its bed is full of 
large, rough stones. We encamped on the eastern bank 
for the remainder of the night. 

8th. After a ride of about four hours, we crossed the 
Leuwe Revier, near a pleasant farm. Its banks are 
very steep, and in some places formed of perpendicular 
rocks, resembling mud-walls in colour. Having forded 
another smaller stream of brackish water, we halted on 
a waste, with a woody dell behind, and the magnificent 
range of the Zwellendam mountains before us^ towards 
which, after two hours' rest, we directed our course, 
Thf^ morning had b^en uncommonly clear, and we were 



J 22 rOURNAL OF A 

enjoying the view, when suddenly clouds began to cover 
their tops. In a short time, we were enveloped in a 
dense fog, followed by heavy rain, which did not cease 
till we reached Zwellendam, about two P. M. 

I immediately waited on the landdrost, Mr. Von Buis- 
sini, and presented the letter, written by Colonel Bird in 
the name of the Governor, and which, as a proof of the 
kind attention of his Excellency to promote every at- 
tempt to spread civilization among the Hottentots under 
his government, by means of Christian instruction, I beg 
leave to insert, especially as it proved the source of all 
that ease and comfort, which we enjoyed during a jour- 
ney of such length, attended frequently with great diffi- 
culties and dangers. The same letter was addressed to 
the landdrosts of the districts of Zwellendam, George, 
and Uitenhagen. 

Sir, 
I am directed by his Excellency, the Governor, to 
beg your attention to the bearer, the Rev. Mr. Latrobe. 
Mr. Latrobe's object in visiting your drosty, is to 
ascertain whether there is any unoccupied Government- 
land in your district, v*^hich would be suitable for esta- 
blishing an institution of Hottentots under the superin- 
tendency of the Moravian Brethren. It is his Excel- 
lency's desh^e, therefore, that you may be pleased to 
afford to this gentleman the fullest information in your 
power on the subject, and his Excellency will esteem 
any civility you may show Mr. Latrobe, as a favour 
done to himself. 

I have the honour to be, 
Sir, 
Your most obedient servant, 

C. BIRD, 

Colonial OJfin , 
Fehruarij Vo, 181b. 

The landdrost, after perusing this letter, expressed his 
great readiness to lend every assistance in promoting an 
object, to which he had always shown the most favour- 
able disposition, and was glad to be thus authorized to 
act consistently with his own inclinations, in aiFordmg 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 123 

every facility to our undertaking. He immediately pro- 
posed to give me a letter to the Veldcornets and others in 
his district, to be valid as far as George, requiring them 
to furnish us with two spanns of oxen at every station, 
and with as many drivers, leaders, and guides, as we 
might want. 

Though I not only felt grateful for such an indulgence, 
but was convinced, that we could not proceed far with 
our own oxen, as they already showed symptoms of great 
weariness, yet at first I was not disposed to accept of 
the landdrost's generous offer, considering myself not 
entitled to such distinction, and disliking the idea of be- 
coming burdensome to the farmers, by pressing their 
men and cattle into our service, perhaps with injury or 
inconvenience to themselves. On both these subjects, 
however, the landdrost satisfied my mind, particularly 
by stating, that the farmers received a sufficient conside- 
ration for services thus performed, and had no reason to 
complain, since the English Government had ruled the 
colony. It was our intention to have purchased a spann 
at this place, a measure which was now superseded; 
and as we could spare at least one of our Hottentots, 
old Christian Hector was sent home with the spann we 
had hired at GnadenthaL Mr. and Mrs. Von Buissini 
insisted upon our taking up our abode at their house, 
and treated us with every mark of kindness and hos- 
pitality. 

The drosty is a substantial, spacious, well-furnished 
mansion, and the premises much improved by the pre- 
sent landdrost. The town or village lies scattered, and 
consists of several single houses or rows of buildings, 
connected with each other, without much regularity. 
The church is a neat plain structure, without a toAver. 
The number of inhabitants is said to be about three 
hundred. The situation of Zwellendam is under the 
highest part of a range of lofty mountains, whose rocky 
summits assume all manner of singular shapes. Two 
peaks, like truncated cones, form their principal 
feature, and the kloofs and beds of torrents, with which 
their steep sides are furrowed, have an almost terrific 
appearance. Parallel to their foot runs a range of low 



^^i JOURNAL OF A 

round hills, some of which are rocky, others, clothed 
with verdure. 

9th. The oxen required by the landdrost to be fur- 
nished for us, eighteen in number, were early at hand, 
and the drivers in haste to proceed. Having been ad- 
vised to take our own spann with us as a reserve, we 
appointed Lebrecht Aris to the care of them; Jeremias 
to drive the baggage^wagon ; Leonhard Paerl to take 
charge of the saddle-horses, and Marcus and Johannes 
to attend the lighter wagon. 

About nine A. M. we left the landdrost's hospitable 
mansion, in which we had felt ourselves quite at home. 
In Mr. Von Buissini, we found a friend, and a man of 
superior intellect and information. He speaks English 
fluently, as likewise German and other languages, and 
possesses a good library. Mrs. Buissini is a lady of 
most affable and benevolent character, and treated Sister 
Schmitt with great kindness. She also bestowed several 
necessary articles of provisions upon us, such as fowls, 
wheaten bread, and garden fruits. At her request. Sis- 
ter Schmitt visited a Hottentot maid-servant, who for- 
merly belonged to the Groenekloof congregation, till her 
husband finding work in this place brought her hither. 
She was confined to her bed by a severe illness, and 
on seeing Sister Schmitt enter the room, burst into a 
flood of tears, exclaiming, '^ This, indeed, is an answer 
to my prayers, for I have cried incessantly unto the 
Lord, especially during my present illness, to grant me 
the favour again to see one of my teachers." 

The landdrost had mentioned the Settlement at Zuur- 
brack, belonging to the Missionary Society in London, 
about half a day's journey from Zwellendam, as worthy 
of our notice, and had given orders to our drivers to pass 
through that place, on our way to the next station at the 
Groot Vaders Bosch. They were civil, good-humoured 
people, and drove at a brisk rate, often at a sharp trot. 

The road was good, the weather pleasant, clear, and 
cool, and our party in excellent spirits. As we left Zwel- 
lendam, the views to the south became more extensive, 
and the mountains to the north assumed a milder charac= 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 125 

ter, till the view of the high range was intercepted by 
lower hills. 

Farms are not numerous in this part of the country. 
We crossed several brooks, and regretted to see a good 
deal of water, that precious fructifying agent in this dry 
land, running to waste, though the valleys appeared capa- 
ble of culture. But the land allotted to each farm occu- 
pies so large a tract of country, and labourers are so 
scarce, that some apology may be made for the inhabi- 
tants. Since the slave-trade has been abolished, and the 
slaves remaining in the colony are sold at an enormous 
price, particularly if they are skilled in any art, the ser- 
vices of Hottentots are more wanted in the cultivation of 
the land. Thus they have been taught better to know 
their own value, and will no longer submit to the treat- 
ment they formerly received. Being both by Dutch and 
English laws a free nation, they cannot be compelled to 
serve an unjust or tyrannical master, and it is solely ow- 
ing to their natural indolence, that many of them remain 
in poverty and misery. The effect of Christian instruc- 
tion contributes most towards raising them from the ab- 
ject and wretched state, into which they had been plun* 
ged, by gradually changing their dispositions, and making 
them obedient, not only to the precepts of the Gospel, 
but to all those moral and civil obhgations which it incul- 
cates, as they are successively explained to them by their 
tea^chers. 

About an Enghsh mile above a pleasant farm, called 
Rotterdam, we arrived at the BuefTeljagd's Revier. The 
bushes covering both banks near the ford consist chiefly 
of the mimosa. Having crossed the river, we turned to 
the left, out of the main road, under a hill, the ascent of 
which was covered with a profusion of large aloes. This 
was the first time we had seen this singular plant growing 
in such abundance. 

The vale of the Zuurbrack is, at its entrance from the 
west, narrow and full of wood. The BuefTeljagd's Re- 
vier winds from side to side between steep banks, and 
must be forded twice before the missionary Institution 
can be approached. A few Hottentot women, imitating 
the custom at Gnadenthal, came out to meet us, and 



126 JOURNAL OF A 

walking alongside of the wagons, bid us welcome with a 
hymn. The valley w^idens near the settlement, and ap- 
pears to be a spot well chosen for the purposes of such 
an institution. VVe were received by Mr. and Mrs. 
Seidenfaden, her mother, and brother, and his assistant, 
Mr. Wimmer, with great kindness. After some conver- 
sation and refreshment, we proceeded to see Mr. Seiden- 
faden's gardens, which are well laid out. After dinner, 
we walked w^ith him through the Hottentot village, which 
at present consists of one row of huts on the north side 
of the valley. Some of them we entered, and conversed 
with the inhabitants. They were friendly, and express- 
ed their thankfulness for the instruction they receive, and 
for the zeal with which the missionaries endeavour to 
promote their temporal and spiritual welfare. 

Mr. Seidenfaden is a man of an active, benevolent 
mind, and generous spirit. He has himself built a good 
substantial house, with a spacious hall, in which he meets 
his congregation, and keeps school with the children and 
young people. The Missionary Society in London, un- 
der whose direction he acts, have not as yet thought 
proper to build a church in this place, and the small 
sum he could raise for the purpose, proved quite inade- 
quate to the undertaking. A beginning, however, was 
made on an eminence near the house, but his expecta- 
tions failing, the work remains unfinished. He appears 
to deserve more encouragement, for the situation is such^ 
that in time a considerable settlement might be formed. 

After a pleasant stay of about four hours with this 
worthy family, we set out for the next station, accompa- 
nied by Mr. Seidenfaden and his brother-in-law on 
horseback, to direct us in crossing the river, the banks 
of which are so very steep, that all the skill of Hottentots 
in driving was required, to bring the wagons and oxen 
safely through the water. At one of the "fords, an ox, 
becoming wild, disengaged himself from the yoke. But 
we were in a most romantic place, in which s*^ome deten- 
tion was not unpleasant. While the Hottentots were 
pursuing the frightened beast, the wagons remaining sta- 
tionary in the midst of the stream, we contemplated with 
delight the surrounding scenery. To the right, the wa- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 127 

ter rushed forward between steep, woody banks, in the 
deep shade of overspreading trees, towards a range of 
low hills, enclosing the valley to the south. To the left 
rose a dark, gloomy forest, ascending a deep kloof, be- 
tween perpendicular rocks, and stretching along the foot 
of the mountains, whose tops were enveloped in black 
clouds, rendered more frowning, as contrasted with the 
splendour of a bright sun in the west, beautifully light- 
ing up every part of the valley, while the sides of the 
mountains were buried in shade. The river seemed to 
fly from the dark recesses of the kloof towards a milder 
region. Close by the ford lay the skeleton of an ox; 
wolves, jackals, and tygers having feasted on its flesh, 
of which but little was left for Mr. Seidenfaden's large 
dog. This fine animal had accompanied us, and now 
improved the opportunity of making a meal of the re- 
mainder; for the dogs belonging to African farmers and 
Hottentots are not regularly fed, but live upon what they 
find. Having secured the wild ox, we proceeded, and 
soon took leave of our worthy friends, who returned to 
Zaur brack, with our best wishes and prayers for God's 
blessing to rest upon their labours. 

Our road lay through the valley, and as long as It was 
light, we feasted our eyes on the delightful scenery, till 
we reached the farm of Mr. V^an Ass, in Groot Vader's 
Bosch. This was the first boors house, to which we 
had recourse for a night's lodging. When we produced 
the landdrost's order for Vorspann, Mr. Van Ass made 
many difficulties, complaining, that it put him to great in- 
convenience to harbour and forward us on our journey ; 
that he had no beds, and could render us no assistance 
in providing supper, though there were ten or more 
slaves and Hottentot maids in his kitchen, unemployed. 
At length, he showed us into a room, where we might 
put down our mattresses, and even agreed, that Sister 
Schmitt might have the use of the kitchen-fire. Finding 
ns satisfied with his arrangements, he brightened up a 
little, and entered into conversation with civility. As it 
turned out a wet night, our Hottentots slept in the tent. 

10th. A thick fog covered the mountains, but while 
we were at breakfast, it cleared away, and presented to 



128 JOURNAL OP A 

our view a charming landscape. Mr. Van Ass^s premi- 
ses seem formerly to have been kept in better order than 
they are at present. He is a bachelor, and his domestics 
appeared to be an idle crew. Sister Schmitt, having 
discovered, that several of the women professed to be- 
long to the Zuurbrack congregation, though they very sel- 
dom went thither, represented to them, how much they 
had to answer for, when so favourable an opportunity 
was afforded them to hear the word of God for their 
salvation, if they made light of it, neglecting the means, 
and even dishonouring the cause of the Gospel by their 
lives and conversation. Her reproof, delivered with 
great mildness, seemed to make some impression upon 
them. On our leaving the place, several of them ex- 
pressed a wish to have more conversation with her, as 
we slowly followed the wagons up the hill, and seemed 
much affected at taking leave. 

The Groot Vader's Bosch is a forest retained by Go- 
vernment, the trees growing chiefly in the kloofs and 
valleys, which intersect the high range of mountains. As 
we proceeded, the appearance of the country grew less 
interesting. Very few farms are seen in the wide waste 
towards thie south. Some kivits, or plovers, were the 
only birds, and a duyker (antelope) the only quadruped 
we saw, during several hours' ride. The low hills are 
covered with aloes, and the vales rich in bushes, chiefly 
of the mimosa kind. 

At two o'clock, we reached Mr. Lombard's farm, on 
Duyven hoek's Revier. This gentleman is a relation of 
Mr. Von Helsland, on Bock Revier. As he had been a 
commandant of the volunteer farmers in the CaiTre war, 
and was well acquainted with all the country about the 
Chamtoos and Klein Reviers, I showed him the list of 
Government-places I had received, through the kindness 
of the Colonial Secretary, which led him to give us some 
interesting information concerning the situation, -nature of 
the soil, and present possession of these places, by which, 
in some measure, we were directed in our future inquiries. 
He seemed anxious to detain us, and finding in him a 
xevy intelligent and well-informed man, we would wil- 
lingly have availed ourselves of his friendly invitation^ 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 129 

had we not wished to make the best use of our time in 
the prosecution of our journey. For the services Mr. 
Lombard rendered to General Dundas in theCaffre war, 
he was presented with a very elegant gun. His farm is 
well built, and situated upon a rising ground, command- 
ing a fine prospect across the river, towards the moun- 
tains. The walls of the hall, which is the common room 
of the family, were decorated with French prints, more 
highly finished in their execution, than decent in their sub- 
jects. On taking leave, Mr. Lombard pressed us, on our 
return, to spend three or four days with him, when he 
would take us to the seacoast, show us the surrounding 
country, hunt with Mr. Melville, and, as a summxim bo- 
num^ treat us with oysters. 

Both in approaching to, and leaving this farm, we had 
to cross the Duyvenhoek's Revier, which, by some par- 
tial rain on the hills, had acquired both depth and rapid- 
ity. The road to our next station was interesting only 
by a full view of the grand ridge of mountains, which 
here assumed a different character, appearing in de- 
tached parties, with a high peak towards the west, and a 
precipitous descent to the east. 

About six in the evening, we arrived at Mr. Piet Du 
Preez's farm, where we met with a cordial reception. 
We found here a Mr. S. a smith by trade, who had for- 
merly belonged to our Church, and resided in some of 
the settlements of the Brethren in Germany. He seem- 
ed much pleased to meet with countrymen in the Breth- 
ren, Schmitt and Stein. Two English dragoons were as 
much delighted to see three o{ their countrymen, but told 
us, that in consequence of the capture and punishment of 
five of the boors, engaged as principals in the late re- 
bellion, the people in the Langekloof were ill-disposed 
towards the English, and very sulky. As the weather 
was fair, we wished to proceed another stage, but the 
family protested against it, the road being too bad for 
night-travelling. It was well we staid within doors, for 
unexpectedly a thick fog announced a change of wca- 
the r. 



17 



J 30 JOURNAL OF A 



CHAPTER VIl. 

Zeekoegat on the Vat Revier. Conversation with Hottentots. 
Soete^Melks'Valley. Delay at Tygerfonteyn^ and on the 
Gowritz Revier. Kleinberg. MosseUBay. Arrange- 
ments made by Government. Aloes. Mr. Meyer^s farm 
at Hartenbosch. Account of Wild Beasts. Flying Ants. 
Beautiful scenery on the Great Brak Revier. Groene-- 
land. Description of Hoogte Kraal. Arrival at George. 
Account of the Kxecution of five of the rebellious boors. 

11th. Having despatcned a horseman to the next Veld- 
cornet for relays, and taken leave of our kind host and 
hostess, we left their hospitable mansion about seven in 
the morning. Mr. Du Preez is a lively old man, and 
constantly wears a large round hat. His house is well 
built, and the farm extensive. The oxen he had furnish- 
ed were extremely wild, and set off in a gallop. They 
almost ran over our Hottentot Johannes, as he was tack- 
ing through the bushes, down the hill, towards the river. 
We passed through several pretty vales, full of shrubs 
and low wood, in which the thorn-bush and milk-bush, 
(fiscus,) a tree not unlike a Portugal laurel, were most 
abundant. The hills are low and heathy. In one of 
these sequestered vales, we made halt to breakfast. 
Near the road lay the carcasses of three large vultures, 
half devoured by beasts of prey. About noon we arriv- 
ed at Zeekoegat, on Vat Revier, a large farm belonging 
to Mr. Cpbus Du Preez. An avenue of noble oaks leads 
up to the house. The buildings are substantial, and 
surrounded by rich plantations, unlike most of the farm- 
ers' dwellings in this country. The master very civilly 
came out to meet us, and prevailed on us to stay with 
him, till the heat of the day had somewhat abated. Af- 
ter dinner- Mr. Du Preez walked with us into the 
grounds, where oranges, lemons, figs, peaches, and other 
fruits grow in rich abundance. This is owing to the 
quantity of water, by which he is able to irrigate all his 
orchards, gardens, and vineyards. Seeing some Hot- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 131 

tentot women sitting under the shade of a large orange 
tree, Brother Schmitt addressed them, asking some 
questions relating to their knowledge of spiritual thingjs, 
as one of them professed to belong to Mr. Seidenfaden's 
congregation. She seemed, however, to have little con- 
cern about the way of salvation, and very seldom attend- 
ed the ministry of that good man, or visited his institu- 
tion. She said, her name was written down, and thought 
that enough; but Brother Schmitt very earnestly ad- 
monished her and her companions, not to neglect the op- 
portunity afforded them to hear the word of God, nor 
to be content with having their names written down in 
man's book, but to turn in faith to Christ the only Sa- 
viour, that they might, on the great day of judgment, 
find their names written in the book of life. They seem- 
ed attentive to his serious but affectionate address. 

The view up the vale of the Vat Revier is grand, high 
mountains forming the back-ground. One of them has 
a remarkable precipice towering above the other sum- 
mits. We left Zeekoegat towards evening, and had two 
young lively slaves for drivers, but the leader was a poor 
timid old fellow, who could hardly creep along. We 
therefore dismissed him, at a place where he had a 
home, and made Johannes leader, which, though an of- 
fice inferior to that of driver, he willingly undertook. 
The slaves drove their oxen at a gallop, sometimes to 
the endangering of our safety, on a road full of holes 
and slopes. But our remonstrances were answered only 
by good-humoured laughter. After travelling for some 
miles, we found the chain of hills, to which the road had 
long run parallel, take another direction, and assume a 
different appearance, presenting an outline of Table- 
Mountain's round-topped, triangular, conical, or gently- 
sloping summits. We were sorry, that by darkness and 
fogs they were so soon hid from our view. About nine 
o'clock we arrived at an outspann-place, Soete-Melk's- 
Valley, and encamped in the field. The name did not 
deceive us, for the good-natured baas of the adjoining 
farm, coming out to meet us, offered to supply as much 
sweet milk as we might want. We therefore sent a 
man to his house, and got enough for supper, and to fill 



i:J2 jotJKNAL or A 

our bottles in store for the next day. Our friendly neigh- 
bour spent about an hour in conversation with us. He 
was eager after news, and of a more inquisitive turn than 
many of his brethren. My fire-box surprised and amus- 
ed him much. Being a dealer in timber, he gave us 
t^ome interesting information concerning the state of the 
Woods. 

As the pressed oxen were rather wild, and too near 
home, to be left loose in the waste, without danger of 
their escaping, the men tethered them to the wagons, 
by which we were greatly annoyed during the night. 
Our own oxen, which we had not seen since we left 
Zwellendam, overtook us at this place, and as the tent 
happened to be pitched on a grassy spot, they soon came 
brovvzing close to it. This disturbed us a little, but we 
were completely roused, when some of them began to 
tight with the strangers, and it required all the attention 
of our men to keep them in order. 

12th. After a restless night, we broke up early, but 
not before our talkative neighbour had paid us another 
visit. We proceeded through a dull country, the weather 
cloudy, and the views obscured. We saw many rehbocks, 
and Marcus Moses was sent, but in vain, to get us some 
venison. Between nine and ten we arrived at Cornelius 
Snyman's farm, Tygerfonteyn, deriving its name from 
the death of a Hottentot by a tyger, some years ago. 
Here we hoped to find oxen, but, through the blunder 
of the Veldcornet, were disappointed. Mr. Snyman and 
his wife were civil people, and we all soon found em- 
ployment, Mr. Melville and I in writing and drawing; 
Sister Schmitt, with the help of the maids, in attending 
to our linen, and the Brethren Schmitt and Stein, in fol- 
lowing some ostriches, with the vain hope of shooting 
one of these wary and swift-footed birds. To please 
the chddren, I set up my microscope, and though some 
were afraid to peep into it, the father and mother, and 
a little boy seemed highly gratified by the exhibition. 
Unpleasant as in many respects this delay appeared, yet 
we were glad that we had met with a friendly family, 
who did all in their powder to assist us. 

13th. Our generous host and hostess would take 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 133 

nothing for what we had enjoyed at their house, but 
even provided us, gratis, with milk and bread for our 
journey. For a fine fat sheep, Mr. Snyman was satisfied 
to take two Gnadenthal knives, called here Boschlem- 
mers, the goodness of which has long recommended them 
to the inhabitants of the colony. From hence we tra- 
velled through a bushy country, with a vast variety of 
flowering shrubs and plants, many of which we brought 
into the wagons to examine. They afforded us great 
gratification, though our want of knowledge in botany 
made it impossible to describe them. After a ride of 
nearly four hours, we forded the Gowritz Revier, which 
here has a sandy bed, enclosed between low, heathy 
hills. The descent to the river is very steep. We passed 
between two farms, both of which had received orders 
to furnish oxen. But we were again disappointed, and 
obliged to encamp. The plain was almost covered with 
a species of large black beetles, apparently journeying 
from place to place, disgusting in their shape, and slowly 
crawling upon every thing we laid down. Meanwhile 
Mr. Melville found an old friend, Mr. Petersen, Govern- 
ment-Surveyor of the district of George, who had just 
arrived, and to whom he mentioned the object of our 
journey. The surveyor being well acquainted with 
every part of the district, his information was of much 
use to us, but he gave us no hopes of finding any unoc- 
cupied land suitable for a missionary settlement, either 
near George or in Mossel-Bay. 

To the latter place we had resolved to bend our 
course, both by advice of Mr. Von Buissini, and in con- 
sequence of an offer of land made to me by the Colonial 
Secretary, Mr. Ale^xander, in case we should find his 
estate an eligible situation. 

Brother Schmitt was here taken very ill with violent 
headach, and general weakness. When we therefore 
had procured oxen, we were obliged to proceed gently, 
as he found the motion of the wagon almost insupport- 
able. The slave-boy, given us for a leader, was a re- 
markably lively lad, and, with his stories and mimickries, 
afforded to our Hottentots a good deal of merriment. In 
general, we seldom found the slaves, either old or young, 



134 JOURNAL OF A 

much depressed by their situation. They appeared 
full of vivacity and mirth. 

About six o'clock we arrived at a farm on Stinkrevier. 
Mr. Melville accompanied me into the yard, vi^here we 
sought in vain for the proprietor. Only one Hottentot 
maid seemed left in charge of the premises. Half a 
hundred geese, and as many ducks, turkeys, and fowls, 
having probably been accustomed to be fed atx5ut this 
time, came running and flying towards us, jsrii cackling 
and crying out for food. They followed tfs to the wa- 
gons, and we could not refuse a meal to such hungry sup- 
plicants. 

Having left our orders for a relay, we proceeded to- 
wards the river, which was nearly dry, and pitched our 
tent for the night. The moon shone bright, but the air 
was very cold. The Hottentots, therefore, after making 
a hearty meal, retired into the wagons to sleep. 

14th. Early, we were disturbed by a great bleating of 
oxen and other noises close to the tent. We rose to see 
what was the matter, and perceived, that about fifty 
head of cattle, passing on to a grazing place, according 
to their usual custom, greeted the strangers. Being 
tethered to the wagons, and not able to follow, the lat- 
ter answered by moans, expressive of their disappoint- 
ment, some even making serious attempts to disengage 
themselves. This serenade broke our rest, and pre- 
pared us for an early departure. No oxen being fur- 
nished by the farmer, we detained those we had in pos- 
session, and after a ride of two hours, arrived at a farm 
called Kleinberg. Here we were received by the far- 
mer Muller, with much civility, and though we had sent 
Leonhaid forward with the landdrost's order to the 
Veldcornet, and had no written commands to produce, 
he readily furnished us with the two spanns required, 
supplied us with various articles we wanted ; and, 
having a smithy adjoining his house, permitted Brother 
Schmitt, who understands something of the trade, to 
convert an iron bar into a pot-hook, to be used at our 
nocturnal fires; which proved a desirable acquisition. 

Few Hottentots live in this part of the country, and 
those we saw seemed to be in miserable plight. At 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 135 

Kleinberg, we found an old gray-headed man. On put- 
ting a few questions to him^ we discovered him to be 
quite ignorant, not even knowing that there was a God, 
who had created all things, and by whose mercy and 
power all things subsist. Brother Schmitt endeavour- 
ed to make him acquainted with that, which surely to a 
man on the brink of the grave must be of most impor- 
tance, the love of God in Christ Jesus. The poor old 
man seemed to listen with eagerness, while the missiona- 
ry explained to him the way of salvation, and how a 
sinner, such as he acknowledged himself to be, might be 
pardoned and reconciled by the merits of the sufterings 
and death of our Saviour. He then exhorted him not to 
forget what he had heard, but before this life was ended, 
to cry for mercy and the remission of his sins, that he 
might be accepted of God, and depart into the mansions 
of peace and bliss. This the poor old Hottentot promi- 
sed to do. 

We now proceeded towards Mossel-Bay, and got on 
with speed. The country through which we travelled 
was uninteresting. We passed by a farm belonging to 
Mr. Alexander, and turning to the left, towards the coast, 
soon came in sight of the buildings erected by Govern- 
ment in the bay. On our arrival, we were very civilly 
received and hospitably entertained by Mr. Abue, the 
store-keeper. He is by birth a Dane. While dinner 
was preparing, I took a walk to the seashore. The 
rocks consist chiefly of sand-stone, coloured in some 
places by iron or manganese, with veins of quartz. I had 
broken several pebbles by throwing them upon the 
rocks, for want of a hammer, when a large fragment 
flew into my face, threw my spectacles aside, and wound- 
ed my cheek qlose to my right eye. For some minutes 
it put me to a considerable degree of pain, and I was 
apprehensive of injury done to the eye itself; but on 
bathing the wound with salt water, it ceased to bleed, 
and the pain left me. I felt thankful to God, that my glass- 
es were not broken, and forced into the eye by the 
stone. Our friendly host applied some camphorated 
brandy, by which all inflammation was prevented. 

Not being able to obtain any oxen, we were under the 



136 JOURNAL OF A 

necessity of remaining some hours at this place, to give 
to those we had brought with us sufficient time for food 
and rest. Mr. Abue showed us the premises, and went 
with us into the king's store-house, built as a deposit for 
corn, to be purchased at a fixed price from the farmers, 
and shipped off to Capetown for Government use. — 
Though the benevolent intention of Government to fur- 
nish a market for the farmers has not altogether been 
fu hilled, since the latter think the price given not a suf- 
ficient reward for their trouble in raising and dehvering 
the corn, jet by some arrangement, it is hoped, that the 
settlement in Mossel-Bay will be of use, in affording the 
means of disposing of the produce of the country. The 
coasts of the bay are bushy, and aloes grow in great 
abundance on the surrounding hills. Formerly the ex- 
tract of aloes, used in medicine, fetched a price sufficient- 
ly high to make it a lucrative trade ; but at present, 
since the article has become more common, and the 
price fallen, it appears to be not worth the farmer's 
while to attend to it, as we were informed by several per- 
sons inhabiting the neighbourhood. 

About three in the afternoon we left Mossel-Bay, and 
went on to Hartenbosch. The road was bad, and Jed 
through a forest of large bushes of various kinds, among 
which we started some wild peacocks, and a bushbock 
antelope ; but it was impossible to follow them, the 

i;reat quantity of thorn-bush, Indian figs, and other prick- 
y plants rendering the thicket almost impenetrable. We 
passed by another farm belonging to Mr. Alexander, 
lying between low round hills clothed with aloes and 
low wood. 

At Hartenbosch, we found friendly faces, and excel- 
lent quarters for the night. Mr. Meyer and his whole 
family gave us the kindest reception, and seemed much 
pleased with our visit. They were amused with the 
fire-box, drawing utensils, portable WTitIng desk, ten- 
bladed knife, and other English w^are in our possession. 
We visited also an old carpenter, who has lived here 
many years. The furniture in Mr. Meyer's house, made 
of stink-wood, yellow-wood, and other curious woods, 
does him great credit, both as to beauty and strength. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 137 

As it turned out a very boisterous evening, we thank- 
ed God for having found shelter in the house of so good 
a man. He hoped the unfavourable state of the wea- 
ther would detain us, and give him more of our com- 
pany. 

l/)th. When we awoke in the morning, the sky was 
covered with black clouds, and it lightened and thunder- 
ed much. At eight it cleared up, though the thunder 
continued to roar all round the horizon. Our friendly 
host, at breakfast, gave us an account of the many wild 
beasts that haunt the woods and bushy coasts of the bay, 
where they have good cover. Tygers and wolves now and 
then commit depredations ; wild buffaloes are sometimes 
seen ; but wild dogs are numerous and most to be 
dreaded. A wolf hunts only at night, h cowardly, and 
may be guarded against by various means ; but the 
wild dogs go in troops, and hunt night and day. They 
attack every living animal, and the '' dread of man" is 
but slight upon them. Mr. Meyer related, that if they 
have killed a tame animal, they will quit it on being at- 
tacked by man, but not if their prey is wild game. Not 
long ago, a troop of them hunted a rehbock into his 
neighbour's yard. The farmer sallied forth with his 
gun to drive off the pursuers, and secure the fugitive for 
his own table, but was instantly attacked by the dogs, 
and his life with difficulty saved by his people. Porcu- 
pines are numerous; serpents creep into the poultry- 
yards and houses and do much mischief. Our host get- 
ting up in the dark, and walking into thq hall, felt some- 
thing hke a rope about his legs. On calling for a light, 
he discovered it to be a yellow serpent. Had he acci- 
dentally trod upon it, he would have been bitten by the 
venomous reptile. 

About nine o'clock, we took leave of the family. No 
where have we yet met with a more cordial reception 
than at Hartenbosch. 

We entered a kloof between hills moderately high, 
intersected by charming little glens and coves, fill- 
ed with luxuriant bushes and many aloes. A pleasant 
brook ran winding down the vale. But we had not long 
enjoyed the delightful scenery among these interesting 

18 



138 JOURNAL OF A 

and ever-varying hills and dales, before black clouds 
came sweeping along their summits with lightning, thun- 
der, and rain. When the rain ceased, and the sun began 
again to shine upon us, the air was filled with millions of 
small flying ants, each having four wings. Many fell 
upon our clothes, and stuck to the w^et coverings of the 
wagons, while the main army passed over us, in appear- 
ance like a cloud of dust. From the hills, we descend- 
ed into a grassy plain with a ridge of higher mountains 
before us. On a peak in the fore-ground stood two re» 
markable rocks, shaped so as to resemble decayed cas- 
tles. Mr. Melville and Stein followed some wild pea- 
cocks for some time, but in vain. After fording the Lit- 
tle Sout Revier in two places, we halted on the banks of 
the great Brak Revier. Here we saw our own oxen 
feeding, having advanced no farther towards George^ 
and we were glad to find them in good condition. 

From hence we sent our old groom, Leonhard, to Mr. 
De Watt's house, w^here oxen had been ordered for us, 
to desire that they might meet us on the banks of the 
river. The old man gave such an account of the dignity 
of his employers, that the honest farmer was soon awed 
into compliance, and sent his son with the beasts, with 
an apology for not waiting upon us in person. This was 
the first time that the requisition for relays had perfectly 
succeeded. 

The vale, in which we had halted, pleased us much, 
and appeared to have many requisites for a settlement. 
But besides being occupied, we w^ere informed, that in 
the rainy season it is turned into a lake, by the overflow- 
ing of the river. In all directions the scenery is beauti- 
ful. Towards the estuary, the low hills consist of white 
sand, their tops covered thick with bushes. The state 
of the tide admitting of our fording the river, we pro- 
ceeded towards its eastern bank, and ascended the hills- 
Here the character of the soil seemed to change, and 
instead of iron and sand-stone, which had followed 
us from Gnadenthal, the road glistened with bright sil- 
ver-coloured mica, in small fragments of granite. The 
quartz was of a bluish hue, the'feldspath brown, and in 
some stones mixed with hornblend and shoerl. On each 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 159 

side of the road are deep glens. Down that to the left, 
abroad brook hurried swiftly amidst rocky shores, and 
impenetrable thickets, which rose to the brow of the 
hill. A smaller stream gHded more gently down the 
right-hand deeper glen, in which a considerable quantity 
of large timber shaded its dark recesses. The descent 
into it was, in many places, almost perpendicular, with 
rocks richly clothed with beautiful creepers, the crevices 
affording nourishment to their roots, and to those of a 
vast variety of shrubs and trees. Our walk up the hill 
was rendered extremely pleasant, by the view of these 
natural beauties, and of the hilly country we had left 
behind. 

Having gained the summit, we arrived at an extensive, 
grassy plain, with a distant view of the mountains of 
George to the north and east. The plain is called 
Groeneland. At a mean solitary cottage, we quenched 
our thirst with some butter-milk, and travelled along a 
smooth road, till an unexpected steep descent seemed to 
arrest our progress. A rapid brook, fed by numberless 
small streams, precipitating themselves in cascades, from 
the steep and rocky banks, rushed wildly through the 
bottom of the glen. 

Having overtaken a wagon with fourteen oxen, with 
a family travelling towards George, and halting near 
the descent, a consultation was held, and Leonhard des- 
patched with a horse to try the depth of the ford. The 
bed of the brook consisted of loose stones, over which 
the water passed furiously, about three feet in depth. 
Being no courtiers, neither party strove to take prece- 
dence of the other, but each offered to its new friends 
the honour of a first plunge, and as we had arrived last, 
we submitted to remain spectators of the extraordinary 
manner in which their wagon reeled from side to side 
through the flood, when we likewise ventured in, and 
got safe to shore. The thunder-showers of last night 
had considerably increased the waters of the brook, but 
the tide coming in, had now swelled it into the ap~ 
pearance of a large river, farther down the valley. 

Having a desire to see the missionary institution call- 
ed Hoogte Kraal, under the superintendency of the 



140 JOURNAL OP A 

Reverend Mr. Pacalt, sent out by the Missionary Society 
in London, we left the above-mentioned party to proceed 
alone to George, and turned to the right. The ascent from 
the brook led us to another grassy plain, intersected by 
two narrow and rocky glens, by which we arrived about 
six in the evening at Hoogte Kraal. We were received 
with much friendly attention by Mr. Pacalt, but not hav- 
ing a house spacious enough to harbour so large a party, 
he proposed that we should put down our mattresses in 
his chapel, after the usual evening-service. This, how- 
ever, did not begin till nine o'clock, to give the Hotten- 
tots time to return from their work in the neighbouring 
farms. Meanwhile, the time was agreeably spent in 
conversation. At nine, the people were called together 
by the sound of a cow's horn, blown by a maid-servant, 
in place of a bell. About a hundred men and women 
attended. The men and women sit separate, as in most 
foreign churches, on benches, and are addressed from a 
table and desk, as with us. The chapel is a temporary 
building, with one door at the gable-end. By a judicious 
arrangement, therefore, on leaving it, the women go out 
first, then the men, and the minister follows. The ser- 
vice consisted of two hymns, an exposition of a portion 
of scripture, which this evening was the beginning of 
our Saviour's sermon on the mount, a prayer, and a 
concluding hymn. The voices of the congregation were 
excessively loud, and the tunes sung some of the most 
lively now in use in some chapels in England, but, both 
in their character and the manner of singing them, bid- 
ding defiance to all solemnity and good taste. After Mr. 
Pacalt had spoken about two minutes, a woman began to 
make a strange tremulous noise. Supposing her to be 
suddenly seized with illness, I was surprised to find no 
one ready to help and lead her out, till her neighbours, 
catching the infection, the noise spread throughout the 
whole assembly, the men uttering deep groans. In his 
prayer, the missionary affectionately remembered us, 
and we were sorry to be so much disturbed, by the con- 
tinuance of these jarring sounds. On expressing our 
astonishment at the disturbance thus occasioned to the 
service, Mr. Pacalt informed us, that it had been con- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 141 

sidered as a sign of conviction, by the power of the 
Word. But supposing even that true conviction of sin 
might, in some, produce this effect, who does not see, 
that insincerity may easily adopt such external marks, 
to gam the good opinion of men, whose piety and truth 
beu)g unsuspected, are willing to beheve others incapa- 
ble of so great a fraud. Feeling as I do for the honour 
of the cause we are all equally eager to promote, and 
highly respecting the efforts made by missionaries of 
every denomination, though differing from us in forms, 
and perhaps in opinions, as to minor points, I would 
humbly submit to the consideration of the directors of all 
missionary institutions, whether it would not be well to 
avoid every thing that needlessly gives occasion to the 
evil-minded to ridicule or oppose our labours. We have 
reason to take the apostle's frequent warnings to heart, 
that we may not " let our good be evil spoken of." 

16th. At^ter breakfast, Mr. Pacalt proceeded to show 
us the settlement, which is as yet but small. The cotta- 
ges are placed in regular rows. The gardens are well 
laid out, and the Hottentots, both by precept and exam- 
ple, taught diligently to attend to the rearing of garden- 
produce of various kinds; but there are no trees, nor 
any plantations or nurseries. Indeed, the elevated 
situation of the place, and the nature of the soil, is said 
to be unfavourable to the groAvth of trees, the shade of 
which, however, is an almost essential requisite in an Af- 
rican summer. 

Mr. Pacalt has a small house of two rooms. His la- 
bour is great. Every day he keeps school, and meets 
the congregation in the evening, being without an assis- 
tant, and having the direction and management of all 
the outward concerns of the establishment. He was 
now building a smithy. 

Our Hottentots having suffered the oxen to go astray, 
some of us visited the people in their kraals, and con- 
versed with them in a friendly way. Wild dogs have 
lately done much harm in this neighbourhood. When 
we were ready to set off, a Berg-adder, reported to be 
one of the most venomous of serpents, appeared under 
«he oxen, and was killed. She was about two feet long, 



142 JOURNAL OF A 

beautifully marked with a double row of multangular 
spots down the back, and underneath, of a silver-gray 
colour. 

After an hour's ride across the desert, we arrived at 
the town of George, and immediately proceeded to the 
house of the landdrost, Mr. Van Kervel. He was 
absent, but soon returned from accompanying Mr. 
George Rex, an English gentleman, who possesses a 
large farm in Plettenberg Bay, called Melkhout Kraal. 
Having presented Colonel Bird's letter to the landdrost, 
we conversed some time on the particular business for 
which we had undertaken the journey. He expressed 
the greatest readiness to render us every service in his 
power, and a wish that we might find some land to 
suit our purpose within his district. He advised us to 
look at a spot in Plettenberg Bay, called Jackal's Kraal, 
which, though rejected by Dr. Van der Kemp, as not 
sufficiently large, might yet suit usy and under cultiva- 
tion, be made a fit dwelling for a Christian Hottentot 
congregation of about five hundred persons, having also 
the convenience of conveyance by water between the 
bay and Capetown. 

After some consultation, we resolved to take the land- 
drost's advice. He offered every faciHty to enable us 
to perform the journey; proposing also, that we should 
stay at his house till Monday morning, that he might 
send messages to the Veldcornets, both in Plettenberg 
Bay and in the Lange Kloof, to furnish us with oxen at 
the different stations, and prevent delay. We determined 
accordingly to spend another day with this worthy man, 
of whose excellent character we had heard many a true 
report ; far short, however, of what we found it to be. 
In the afternoon, he invited several friends to meet us, 
with whom we spent a very pleasant evening. The 
landdrost being a great lover of music, I did not want 
much entreaty to play for him many of Haydn's and 
Mozart's compositions, which, though familiar to me, 
were new to him, and seemed to afford him great delight. 
When the company had retired, we took a walk to see 
the new church now building, after a design of Mr. 
Petersen, the Government Surveyor. The outer walls 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 143 

and roof were finished. It will be a handsome structure 
in the Grecian style, and contain from a thousand to 
fifteen hundred people, but without a steeple, on ac- 
count of the high winds, or rather, the low state of 
the town-purse. The clergyman's house will be placed 
on one, and the school on the other side of the church, 
forming a handsome range of buildings. 

17th. Being Sunday, we prepared to go to church. 
Service is now performed in a farm-house, the inner 
walls being taken out, so as to form a spacious room, 
holding about two hundred people. 

In the morning, the whole country was enveloped 
in a thick fog, but it dispersed during the forenoon. 
We accompanied the landdrost in his travelling wagon, 
drawn by four horses, to the temporary church, and 
found an assistant, reading a sermon to about sixty 
hearers. It was a dry discussion of doctrinal points, 
with an attempt, in the usual way, to prove the doc- 
trine of particular election and reprobation, which 
tended but little to edification. The reader, however, 
concluded with an extempore prayer, in a strain of 
humility and true christian charity, which seemed to 
proceed from his heart. We regretted, therefore, the 
more, that he was not left to preach the doctrine of sal- 
vation by faith in the merits of Jesus Christ, the Saviour 
of all repenting sinners, but obliged to unfurl the banner 
of a party, in reading a controversial discourse. The 
concluding hymn was accompanied on an organ, much 
out of tune. After service, we took a walk in the gar^ 
den, and on our return, ascending the foot of the moun- 
tain in the wagon, visited the woods on its declivityj ad- 
miring the luxuriant 2;rowth of many large timber-trees. 

George is a new district, town, and drosty, settled by 
Sir J. Cradock, when Governor of the Cape; Zwellen- 
dam having been divided into two separate districts, each 
governed by alanddrost, Heemraaden, and other officers. 
The town has about one hundred inhabitants. The 
houses are two stories high, having an " erker," or bow- 
window over the door. They stand detached from each 
other by intermediate gardens, and form a broad street 
facing the drosty, or landdrost's mansion, from which. 



]4i JOURNAL OF A 

turning in a right angle towards the soutJi, another street 
has been begun, containing the church, parsonage and 
school-house. The town is watered, rather scantily, by 
the Zw^art Revier, a small stream from the mountains, 
but Avhich, unlike others, flows both in the dry and rainy 
season. 

After dinner, the Reverend Mr. Herold, minister of 
George, having returned from Uitenhagen, called on the. 
landdrost, to make a report of his attendance on the five 
rebellious boors, who were executed last Saturday in 
that district. He gave a most melancholy account of 
that event. The han^rman was a black. The halters 
were too weak, or rather, as some suspected, intentional- 
ly cut; but no sooner had the delinquents been turned 
off, and the platform removed, than four of the five fell 
from the gallows. Having unfortunately been persuaded 
to believe, that by English custom, a man thus falling- 
down is free, the poor wretches cried for mercy, and one, 
addressing the by-standers, exclaimed, that by this acci- 
dent it was made manifest, that God w^ould not permit 
them to be put to death. The landdrost. Colonel Cuy- 
ler, was, however, obliged to let justice take its course, 
and other halters being procured, they were launched 
into eternity. The clergyman described them all as well 
prepared to die, acknowledging the justice of their sen- 
tence, and appearing truly penitent. Not many specta- 
tors attended; but their wives and relatives were pre- 
sent, w4iich is hardly to be explained by the standard of 
English feeling. No disturbance whatever took place, a 
party of dra^^oons and the Cape regiment keeping 
guard. This is said to be the first time that any Afri- 
can's descendants from Europeans have suffered death 
for crimes deemed capital in Europe. Government has 
often extended mercy to such as deserved condign pu- 
nishment, but it seems only to have had that effect, that 
the rebels believed no Government to have the courage 
to take away their lives, for crimes committed against the 
state. It was, therefore, necessary to make an example, 
and out of twenty-four condemned to die, five of the 
most notorious offenders had been selected for the pur- 
pose. The rest were punished with imprisonment, for- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 145 

feiture, or banishment. The Reverend Mr. Herold 
seemed greatly agitated, and declared, that the impres-- 
sion made on his mind by so dreadful a catastrophe 
would not soon be effaced. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Departure from George, Beautiful Scenery. Description 
of the Defiles of Kaymaii^s Gat and Trekata^kou. Arri- 
val at Mr. Zaayman^s farm. The Veldcornefs account of 
tygers. Ford in the Ruygte Valley. Accidents which be- 
fel some of the party. First view of the Knysna. Arri- 
val at Melkhout Kraal. Survey of JackaVs Kraal in 
Plettenberg Bay. Objections of the Hottentots to a set- 
tlement in that place, 

18th, Having despatched our letters to Gnadenthal, with 
an account of our journey and transactions, since we 
left Zwellendam, we prepared for our departure. Mr. 
Van Kervel had provided two spanns, each of fourteen 
strong oxen, to bring us across the dreadful defiles be- 
tween George and Plettenberg Bay. He also furnished 
itie with an order for relays as far as Uitenhagen, and 
with letters to Mr. Rex^ and a list of places in our route. 
To Mr. Zaayman also, a farmer, at whose house we 
were to spend the first night, directions were sent to put 
us forward on our return from JackaPs Kraal, in case we 
took the road over the Duivelskop into the Lange 
Kloof. Our own spann of twelve oxen, which w^e had 
brought hither from Zwellendam, were left, by his advice, 
at George, as they would serve us on our return, but 
were too weak to be of any use in crossing the moun- 
tains. 

At eight o'clock we took leave of this worthy man. I 
have seldom, if ever, met with a character so justly de- 
serving all the praise bestowed upon him, for the exer- 
cise of those qualities which distinguish a good magis- 
trate, master, and friend. Not long ago he lost an amia- 
ble partner, of whom the servants and slaves in the fa- 

10 



146 JOURNAL Ot A 

mily spoke with the sincerest esteem and tears of regrefr 
To us he behaved Hke a father, felt interested in the 
success of our undertaking, and it would be ingratitude 
in the extreme, not to add our tribute of thankful praise 
to the general voice. To Hottentots and slaves he con- 
ducted himself not with that severe, repelling air, as- 
sumed by so many, who think themselves belonging to a 
higher class of beings, but with friendly condescension, 
calling forth both their reverence and love. Our Hot- 
tentots spoke often with gratitude of the goodness of the 
landdrost of George. In his house, peace and order 
reigned, and his friends and relatives, among whom was 
his nephew, Mr. Du Toit, treated us with the greatest 
civility. On taking leave, he repeated his pressing in- 
vitation, on our return, again to make his hospitable man- 
sion our home. 

The farmer, to whom the oxen belonged, and the 
Veldcornet, accompanied us, to lend assistance in passing 
through the defiles of Kayman's Gat, (the crocodile's 
cove,) and Trekata^kou, (the maiden's ford,) by which 
we had to enter Piettenberg bay. Early in the morn- 
ing, thick fogs had again spread themselves over the 
mountains, and we began to fear an upleasant day, and 
the loss of th^ romantic views Mr. Van Kervel had de- 
scribed as awaiting us in our way. But the sun dis- 
persed the mists, and about noon the atmosphere became 
remarkably clear. We were extremely delighted with 
the beautiful woods and glens, upon which we soon en- 
tered, and pronounced the environs of George, flat as its 
own situation appears, to be as interesting and romantic 
as any part of the country we had yet seen. In about 
an hour's time, passing by the farm to which our oxen 
belonged, they all on a sudden turned short round, pre- 
ferring to graze at their awn quarters, rather than to toil 
throuoh the defiles before us. It was with some difficulty 
that they were made to proceed. 

Our road lay in a line nearly parallel to the high range 
of mountains, which here take a direction towards the 
Indian ocean. After crossing several pleasant and well- 
wooded vales, we reached Kayman's Gat, and found the 
description given of it by the landdrost by no means 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 147 

exaggerated. The view of the glen is both magnificent 
and terrific. On leaving the wagons to walk down the 
steep, we began to fear for their safety, and our appre- 
hensions were not lessened by Hstening to stories, told 
on the road by the Hottentots, of misfortunes experienced 
by travellers, whose wagons were broken, and their 
cattle killed in the descent, especially in stormy weather. 
At first, the road slopes down gradually through a 
thicket, with larger trees interspersed. A deep ravine 
to the right receives the brook Zwart Revier, the same 
which passes by the drosty at George, which, rushing 
over precipitous rocks below the road, and out of sight, 
causes a great roaring of hidden waters, and adds much 
to the grandeur of the scene. It is not so much its steep- 
ness, w^hich renders the passage of Kayman's Gat so 
dangerous, as the extreme unevenness of the road, if 
road that may be called, where, as yet, art has not as- 
sisted nature, and the traveller must pass over rocks, in 
steps of from one to two feet perpendicular height, the 
wagons bouncing down, reeling from side to side, and 
but for the management of Hottentots accustomed to 
such service, in continual danger of oversetting. They 
support the w^gon, by thongs fastened to each side^ 
pulling with all their might, either to the right or left, 
as otherwise, in several places, the wagons, with all their 
contents, and the poor beasts staggering before them-, 
would be precipitated into the abyss beneath. Long be- 
fore we had reached the bottom of the glen, we were con- 
vinced, that our own oxen would not have been able to 
perform this service. The poor animals seemed often ijutte 
confused; the shaft-oxen being almost thro^wn down, the 
wagon nearly falling upon them, and the rest of the 
spann sometimes hurried forward to draw, and theii 
again kept back to prevent mischief It being ebb-tide. 
we passed the Kayman's RevJer, which flows through 
the glen into the Indian ocean, without difficulty, and 
gave a few moments' rest to our frightened cattle, upon 
whose strength we were going to draw still more largely, 
to work our wagons up the rocky acclivities of the east- 
,ern bank. The view of the glen from below is majestic. 
The steeps on both sides arc clothed with a.nable foresU 



148 



JOURNAL OF A 



Strata of red rock, shelving down the western bank, 
form a singular contrast with the Hvely green of the 
bushes on the slopes between them. A deep chasm or 
rent receiving the Zwart Revier, as above described, di- 
vides the bank, and forms the Gat, or crocodile's cove, 
in the dark recesses of which a small water-fall glistens, 
by the admission of some faint light from above. It is 
said, that formerly crocodiles were found here in great 
numbers, making this chasm their chief place of resort. 
But they have long since withdrawn, and left to man 
full possession. Now and then, a leguan is seen, and 
the woods and glens afford pretty safe haunts for various 
descriptions of wild beasts. Several glens meet here, 
all filled with wood, through which mountain-torrents 
swell the revier. It must be crossed at low water, by 
which the time of our departure from George had been 
measured. 

The eastern bank was, if possible, more steep and rug- 
ged in its ascent than the western. The baggage-wagon 
took the lead, but having laboured hard for about two 
hundred paces, the oxen refused to stir another step. 
No shouts of the drivers, cracking of whips, or hard blows, 
would make the poor dispirited beasts move forward ; 
but when farther urged, they turned sharp round, and 
threw the whole spann into such confusion, that there 
was some danger of the wagon rolling down and drag- 
gmg the shaft-oxen backwards. It was therefore neces- 
sary to bring up twelve of the second spann to their as-- 
sistance, and after a long time spent in unyoking the 
former, placing them again in order, and adding the 
latter. It afforded a singular sight to see twenty-six oxen, 
with all their might working the wagon up the lavers 
ol rock, of which the road consisted ; every five minutes 
resting to take breath. After the heavy wa^on had 
i;eached the summit, bolh spanns were sent down to 
ietch up the travelhng wagon, which, being lighter, was 
more easily accomphshed. 

It is impossible to describe all the romantic glens and 
singular scenery, with which this region abounds. 

Ihetarmer, notwithstanding the excessive fatigue his 
i^mk had suffered, after short rest determined to pro- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 149 

ceed, without an outspann at Barbier's Kraal, as pro- 
posed. Our road lay now through a thick wood, in 
which many a mighty tree seems to have yielded to the 
axe. Bushrope, or Bavianstau, a species of creeper, re- 
sembhng a rope, grows here in abundance, and nearly 
envelops some of the loftiest trees, to the destruction 
of their growth and beauty. In the woods, a number of 
Hottentots and slaves were busily employed in sawing, 
and preparing planks, beams, and shingles. In about 
an hour, we arrived at Trekata^kou, the second grand 
defile, justly dreaded by travellers. The descent from 
the west, though rugged and steep, is not attended with 
more difficulty than many others in this mountainous 
country. The view towards the mass of hills to the 
north, is remarkably grand and beautiful. 

.On these occasions. Brother Schmitt always attended 
the wagons, and, depending on his skill, precaution, and 
advice, we could rest satisfied, that every care was 
taken to prevent mischief, and overthrow. After cross- 
ing a rapid mountain-stream at the bottom of the glen, 
rushing through the dark recesses of a wild wood, over 
a stony bed, and forming, to the left of the road, a large 
pool under some horizontal strata of overhanging rock, 
crowned with beautiful trees and shrubs, we beheld the 
eastern bank with some degree of dismay. The road 
ascended with a steepness, which seemed to baffle the 
attempt of any beasts to draw up the lightest weight. 
The travelling-wagon, however, reached the top after 
great exertion, but the other required both spanns to be 
yoked to it. The poor exhausted oxen made more ob- 
jections to put forth their remaining strength at this 
place, than at Kayman's Gat, and shouts and lashes 
seemed to have lost their effect. They turned round, 
entangled themselves with the tackle, and more than 
once, ten or twelve of them were obliged to be unyoked, 
to bring them again into order. We were above an 
hour working the wagon up the cliffs. 

This afforded time for some examination of the stone 
of which the mountain is formed. Towards the bottom 
of the defile, huge blocks of granite lie dispersed upon 
the surface, but higher up, the chief stone is sand-stone, 



150 JOURNAL OF A 

with iron and quartz, as usual. The granite is beauti- 
ful, with a great quantity of bright, silver-coloured mica, 
in large flakes, and in some instances chrystallized. The 
feldspath and quartz are much decomposed. Iron has 
inserted itself, and seems to be the cause both of speedy 
decomposition, and of the division of some of the blocks 
into irregular strata. When protected within the bow- 
els of the earth, this species of granite may be of a more 
durable quality, and some of the larger blocks at the 
bottom of the glen w^re so hard, that my hammer and 
cold chissels made but little impression upon them. Of 
what the strata of rocks beyond the pool might consist, 
I was not able to discover, their surface being covered 
with red lichen, moss, creepers and ivy. 

After sunset, w^e closed the adventurous business of 
the day, ai^l arrived at Mr. Zaayman's farm. The 
houses, or hovels, are wretchedly constructed, but the 
inhabitants were friendly. The farmer and several 
other men came out and received us with much civihty, 
shaking hands, as is the custom of the country, and bid- 
-ding us welcome in the Dutch atyle. Our tent was 
pitched in the field, and we were soon provided with a 
good supper, being our only meal on this day. While it 
was preparing, Mr. Melville went w^th me, to pay a 
visit to the farmer in his dwelling, braving the attack of 
an host of dogs, to w^hose cowardly barking we could pay 
no attention, having carefully to mind our balance on the 
stepping stones, over which v/e passed through the deep 
mud and filth surrounding the premises. We sat some 
time with the family, the V^eldcornet, and some visiters, 
and obtained much information on various subjects con- 
nected with our future progress. My fire-box was also 
exhibited, to the utter astonishment of all present. Be- 
fore we went to rest, we returned thanks to God our 
Preserver, for having safely brought us thus far, through 
a dangerous path, which to some has even proved fatal. 
We were favoured with fine, dry weather, without 
which few travellers will venture to cross the defiles 
of Kayman's Gat and Trekata'kou. 

19th. We rose before sunset, vainly hoping to reach 
Melkhout Kraal, Mr. Rex's house on the Knysna, before 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 151 

dark. In an hour and a half, we arrived at tlie Veld- 
cornet's house. He had accompanied us the whole 
way, and now invited us to partake of his breakfast. 
This consisted of excellent white bread and butter, sweet 
milk, wild honey of delicious flavour, peaches and 
pears, served up in the old patriarchal style. His house 
and premises lie on an eminence, without any trees or 
gardens about them. Having lately shot four tygers^ 
he exhibited their skins. The largest measured five 
feet six inches, from the nose to the root of the tail, the 
tail itself four feet. It had seized a young heifer by the 
throat, whose bellowing and dying groans brought the^ 
Veldcornet to the spot, when he shot the ferocious ani- 
mal through the body. The skin was much injured, but 
beautiful in the brightness of its colours. 

Here we saw, for the first time, a proof of the devasta- 
tion made by the Caffres during the late war, in the 
ruins of the farm-house, of which the walls only were 
yet standing. The inhabitants, fearing a repetition of 
the incursions of that restless people, have not ventured 
to rebuild their houses, and are now satisfied to dwell 
in huts, httle better than those of the Hottentots. The 
Veldcornet's house, however, was clean and respect- 
able. 

From hence our road lay along the declivity of a hill : 
the mountains with their numerous woody glens, follow- 
ing each other in succession, appeared to great advan- 
tage till we arrived at the farm of a widow Wyers on 
the Zwart Revier. The ford over the river used to be 
at this place, where often the water was so deep, that it 
proved dangerous to travellers. The new ford, though 
shorter, has likewise a deep, muddy bed, through which 
we plunged rather unpleasantly, passed over the hill on 
which the farm-house is situated, and reached the Ruygte 
Valley, where the ford across the river is both broad 
and deep. The wagons were emptied, and their con- 
tents, as well as ourselves, brought across the stream in 
a species of canoe, made of one immense tree. 

The relay-oxen provided for us, being on this side^ 
were obliged to cross the water, and we were amused 
by observing the different degrees of courage or fear^ 



152 JOURNAL OF A 

shown bj these sober animals, in choosing their own 
places to enter it. Some leaped in at once and swam 
boldly forward. Others, after contemplating one spot, 
went on to another, till they found one more shallow, 
which they entered warily : some found themselves de- 
ceived in the sequel, and had a longer and deeper 
stream to cross than the more courageous. The delay 
occasioned by unpacking and repacking the w^agons, 
was the most annoying part of the business, and it was 
noon, before we reached Mr. Meeling's farm, where we 
were hospitably entertained with thick milk, bread, and 
butter. 

But here we had nearly met with a serious accident. 
Sister Schmitt, stepping into the baggage-wagon, slip- 
ped off the pole, and fell backwards, by which her head 
received such a severe contusion, that, for a short time, 
she lost her recollection, and was in much pain. Some 
relief was afforded by an application of bukku brandy, 
but her anxiety to proceed made her unwilling to cause 
delay by staying at this house to be nursed, and we ven- 
tured to continue our journey down the valley, between 
low, heathy eminences, for about an hour. The road 
then led up a steep, barren hill, from the summit of 
w^hich one of the finest views w'e had yet seen presented 
itself before us, with a well w^ooded foreground of hili 
and dale, forming very picturesque scenery. The de- 
scent was rough, through deep sand, mixed with large 
stones, which rendered the jolting of the wagon insu"[> 
portable to Sister Schmitt, who preferred walking down 
the hill through the W'ood, though the pain in her head 
required rest. The Gowcomma flows through the val- 
ley, and the narrow road, rising through a thick wood, 
runs rather too close to its steep banks, to remove all 
apprehension of the wagon being precipitated into the 
stream. We forded this river at a place darkened by 
the shade of large trees, and in view of some black 
rocks, through which the water forces its way, and ar- 
rived safe at the house of Mr. Terblanche, a farmer ot 
decayed fortune. Ruins of a larger house, than that 
which he now inhabits, made us suspect, that the Caffres 
in the late war had destroyed it ; but it seems to have 



VISIT 1^ SOUTH AFRICA. 153 

befen forsaken from other causes. He was much pleas- 
ed to see some company arrive to cheer hirn in his 
solitude, and treated us with bread and thick milk. 
Here we saw that beautiful bird called the green 
cuckoo, one of the few feathered inhabitants of these 
lonely woods, where the enlivening song of the nightin- 
gale and lark is never heard, but merely now and then 
the monotonous whistle of some painted finch, or the 
melancholy cooing of a turtle-dove. 

Leaving this place, we passed along a low hill, re- 
sembling a huge bank oi* dyke, from whence, to the left, 
we had a view of a great number of low green hills, in 
regular rows, not improperly compared by some of us 
to a succession of long Atlantic waves, made stationary 
by being converted into land. By a turn of the road, we 
were unexpectedly treated with a view of the Indian 
ocean, the estuary of the Knysna, and Mr. Rex's farm 
at some distance beyond it. A steep hill and marshy 
plain leads to the ford, which, from the state of the tide, 
Was now impassable. Shortly before we made halt, 
Brother Schmitt met with an accident, which might have 
been even more serious than that which befell his wife. 
Having left the wagon to fetch some remarkably beautiful 
scarlet flowers, which had attracted our attention, on 
venturing to enter it again without stopping the oxen, 
the fore-wheel went over his right foot, and hurt It con- 
siderably. 

Two of our party were now rendered invalids. Yes- 
terday was a day, when danger was expected. To-day 
we had no fears. Thus we received a serious but merci- 
ful warning, that in every situation, and whatever appear- 
ances may be, we ought not to forget, that we are never 
safe, but under the protecting care of our heavenly Father. 
The sufferers, as well as our whole party, wQre thankful, 
that these accidents had not been such as to prevent our 
proceeding. 

The out-spann place was in a romantic situation near 
the ford ; on all sides enclosed by woody hills, the river 
flowing at the foot of those to the east. Here Mr. Mel- 
ville shot a bird, which proved to be a curious species of 
king-fishen the wings and body beautifully marked in 

20 



154 JOURNAL OF A 

black and white. The report of the gun produced one 
of the finest echoes imaginable. A large fire being soon 
kindled, Sister Schmitt, with her usual zeal to sacrifice 
her own convenience to our comforts, which, at least, 
under present circumstances, deserves once for all to be 
noticed, insisted on our permitting her to cook supper for 
us, as we had made no meal all day ; after which, she 
retired to rest in the wagon. Brother Schmitt obtained 
considerable relief by bathing his foot in the cold Knysna, 
by which inflammation was prevented. 

While we were at supper, and for some time during 
the early part of the night, we were treated with a hor- 
rid serenade by wolves on the opposite hill. These crea- 
tures, as also tygers, are said to be numerous in this 
woody part of the country. We w^ere not without fears 
about the safety of the oxen, belonging to the two spanns 
we had brought, and of those provided as relays by the 
Veldcornet, according to order, and feeding loose near 
our encampment. 

20th. At one o'clock in the morning, we were roused 
by our drivers, who were anxious to proceed, as we had 
the Knysna and another river to cross, before we could 
reach Mr. Rex's house, both being fordableonly at low 
w^ater. Our tent was soon struck, and preparations made 
for our departure, by the light of a large fire. Fording 
the Knysna required skill in our drivers, for the river was 
both deep and rapid, and the farmer, therefore, to w^hom 
the cattle belonged, thought proper to drive them him- 
self. Having also crossed the second river in safety, we 
encamped on the opposite bank, between some low bills 
and a grove of lofty trees, and got a dish of coffee. Our 
two patients were both much better, for which we gave 
thanks to God. The morning was clear, and the air re- 
freshing. The views also toward the estuary of the 
Knysna delighted us, whenever an opening in the woods 
and high bushes permitted us to see them. At nine 
o'clock, we arrived at Melkhout Kraal, and w^ere cordi- 
ally welcomed by Mr. Rex, to whom Mr. Van Kervel, 
with his usual kindness and consideration, had already 
sent notice of our approach. 

We soon perceived, that it was our worthy host's in- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 155 

tention to detain us here as long as he could. Some rest 
was indeed needful, and Sister Schmitt immediately 
availed herself of the kind offer of Mr. Rex's lady to let 
her servants assist us in various household concerns. Mr. 
Rex found in Mr. Melville's company and conversation, 
much pleasure and information respecting the measure- 
ment of land, being himself fond of that science. I was 
employed chiefly in writing, and a day spent quietly at 
home seemed to suit the inclination of every one of our 
party. 

21st. The morning was foggy, and threatened rain, but 
about nine it became clear. A ride to the mouth of the 
Knysna had been proposed, but we delayed rather too 
long ; for, by the time we arrived, the fog returned, and 
by degrees covered the sea and the whole coast, while 
the inland country remained clear. After our return, the 
Veldcornet, who was directed to supply oxen to carry us 
to Jackal's Kraal, came to consult with us about the 
time of our departure. We now had much difficulty to 
prevail upon our hospitable host to let us depart in the 
morning. 

After dinner, he showed us his gardens, which are at 
some distance from the dwelling, towards the valley. 
They are well stocked with a great variety of produce, 
but no attention has been paid to ornament. 

22d. Having at length convinced Mr. Rex, that it was 
our duty no longer to indulge in the pleasure he pro- 
posed to give us, by prolonging our stay, but, impressed 
with great gratitude for the hospitable reception we had 
met with at his house, to proceed on the business com- 
mitted to us, he consented, and resolved himself to ac- 
company us to Jackal's Kraal. His lady having fur- 
nished Sister Schmitt with a supply of very needful 
stores and refreshments, we left Melkhout Kraal at ten 
o'clock, Mr. Rex and his son following us on horseback. 

When they came up with us, Mr. Rex took a seat in 
the wagon. The road was uneven, but presented 
charming views of the surrounding country, and of the 
woods, which partly crown the summits, and partly 
adorn the sides of the hills. For some miles, the forest 
extends from the range of high mountains, forming the 



156 JOURNAL OF A 

northern boundary of the bay, to the seacoast. This 
region is called the Port. At a place in the wood, where 
two roads met, Mr. Rex related, that here, during the 
last invasion of the colony, a party of Caffres surprised 
some boors with their wives, five of whom they murder- 
ed in cool blood. One of the women begged hard for 
the life of her husband. After some consultation, they 
suddenly seized him and cut him in pieces. They car- 
ried off one of the women, and kept her for four days. 
They then sent a message to her husband, demanding 
two hundred rix-dollars, as a ransom for his wife. 
Fearing treachery, hie refused to treat with them. Mean-^ 
while she persisted in her entreaties to be released, 
which at length they not only granted without ransom, 
but gave her a safeguard to conduct her home, having 
treated her w^ell during her stay. 

The immense forest^ pf Plettenberg Bay are not with- 
out inhabitants. Elephants, buffaloes, tygers, wolves, 
and wild boars, having little to dread from that grand 
destroyer, Man, find here shelter. They seem all to 
have chosen their ground, some preferring the coast, and 
others the mountains. Thus, if not followed into their 
haunts, they are not often seen by the traveller, espe- 
cially during the day, and w^e were never amused by 
the gambols of tygers or leopards, near the road. A few 
partridges were put up by Mr. Melville's dog, and one 
or two of them shot; but passing through these woods, 
nothing is heard of that cheerful chirping and singing of 
birds, that busy hum of flying insects, with other symp- 
toms of animated nature, which delight and inspirit the 
traveller through the forests of England and the European 
continent. 

We crossed several brooks, running, all but one, from 
the mountains towards the sea. This perverse stream 
is called Samson's Revier, and taking its rise on some 
high land near the coast, runs rapidly towards the hills, 
where it is taken up by the Kierbooms Revier, and turn- 
ed back. Its waters were remarkably clear and sweet, 
and whether from this cause, or feeling some interest in 
its capricious course and opposition to general rule, we 
here replenished our stock of fresh water. On the banks 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 157 

t^f one of the above-mentioned brooks, we found the larger 
species of bukku, one of the most aromatic, medicinal 
plants in the country, and justly esteemed for its healing 
properties. Its leaves steeped in brandy or vinegar, and 
the bottle placed in the heat of the sun, emit an unctious 
juice, by which the fluid is rendered as thick as honey, 
and applied particularly for the he;^Iing of contusions, 
sores, and all external complaints. The Hottentots 
also use it for inward hurts, by mixing a spoonful of it with 
waroi i^yater. Its leaves are lancet-shaped and serrated. 

After leaving the woods, we passed oyer an uninterest- 
ing, barren country, and were rather alarmed by per- 
ceiving, what the height of the trees had hidden from 
our view, that thick black clouds, covering the western 
horizon, were fast following us, thunder muttering at a 
distance. In a short time, a violent wind arose, which 
filled the air with clouds of dust. The backs of the oxen 
and the wagons were covered with it. Soon after it be- 
gan to lighten, thunder, and rain, and almpst made us 
fear, that we should be obliged to give up the thoughts of 
visiting Jackal's Kraal to-day, and be forced to seek 
shelter. We persevered, however, and by the tirqe we 
had reached the heights, which overlook the vale bear- 
ing this name, the rain ceased. The sudden chetnge in 
the appearance of the country afforded us much pleasure. 
From an insipid flat, it swelled into hills, with woody 
glens sloping down towards the vale. As it was now too 
late to examine the spot proposed for an establishment, 
a consultation was held ; the result of which was, that 
we would not proceed to the next farm, but, to save 
time, descend with our wagons into the vale, and there 
encamp for the night, though the weather threatened to 
be rather boisterous, and the appearance of the situation 
below was wild, resembling a haunt of beasts of prey 
in undisputed possession. 

Mr. Rex offered to accompany us down the hill, but 
having business at a farm, several miles from hence, 
much as we delighted in his company, and profited hy 
his conversation, we could not accept of a service, which 
would have put him to much inconvenience. Here, 
therefore^,, though with sensations of regret, we took 



iSft JOURNAL OP A 

leave of our worthy and generous conductor. The 
Veldcornet, Mr. Van Huyste) n, accompanied us into the 
valley. 

Previous to our arrival at Melkhout Kraal, Mr. Rex 
iad made application to Government for the possession 
of Jackal's Kraal. Though no answer had been return- 
ed, I should, as in other instances, have considered this 
circumstance as a sufficient bar against occupation on 
our part, not wishing in the smallest degree to interfere 
with the plans of any individual in the colony, in fixing 
upon a tract of land for a settlement of the Brethren's 
Mission. But Mr. Rex generously declared, that he not 
only gladly quitted all claim to Jackal's Kraal, where 
he had intended only to put up a small cottage, as a 
sheltering place in the hunting season, but rejoiced in the 
hopes of seeing the land cultivated, and a settlement of 
Christian Hottentots formed in his neighbourhood. This 
declaration was now solemnly repeated, and made us de- 
termine to examine the situation, with a view to a mis- 
sionary establishment. 

The descent into the vale was not too steep, but find- 
ing no path, we pulled through the long grass and bush- 
es, over stony or marshy ground, with some difficulty and 
uncertainty, till having reached a spot near a grove of 
tall trees, rising out of thick under-wood, we pitched our 
tent on a dry place, surrounded with high bushes, which 
served us for fuel. Here we made two large fires, both 
for culinary purposes, and to frighten away any wild 
beasts which might be disposed to visit us during the 
night, this place having been reported to be the haunt of 
a great number of ferocious animals. But, as usually \€ 
the case, the love of frightful tales had probably created 
monsters in the reporter's imagination, for we neither 
saw nor heard any thing to give notice of their presence, 
and our cattle walked about the bushes, picking their 
food, without molestation. Yet as caution was necessa- 
ry in a place unknown, and to appearance admirably 
suited to be a dwelling-place for wild creatures, we men 
went in a body, while it was yet light, to view the spot 
where formerly the old Hottentot captain Jackal, froni 
^wbom the place derives its name, had his dwelling. Siff- 



VISIT TO SOtJTtt AFRICA, 159^ 

ter Schmitt and the Hottentots remained in the camp^ 
and prepared supper- The captain's house was built 
upon a rising ground on the south side of the valley, 
probably of very perishable materials, for, besides a few 
broken fragments, resembling the remnants of uprights 
or rafters, nothing was to be seen, but some traces of a 
square field or ga,rden. 

Dark clouds hovering about the horizon, seemed to 
threaten a rainy night. It lightened much, the wind 
rose, and some rain fell, but besides a little annoyance 
from the flapping about of the curtains of our tent, which 
we had not sufficiently secured against the wind, we 
gpent a quiet night in this solitary wilderness, under the 
protection of our Almighty Preserver, and rose early in 
the morning to praise Him for His mercies, and for Mie 
return of fine weather, so desirable and needful for our 
present undertaking. 

23d. We commenced our survey according to a plan 
agreed on last night. Brother Schmitt and Stein went 
with me to captain Jackal's hill. From hence we pro- 
ceeded to a narrow kloof out of which the rivulet flows* 
On leaving the kloof, it buries itself under an assemblage 
of stones, from which, at about an hundred yards dis- 
tance, it emerges in sufficient force, even in this dry sea- 
son, to supply a mill. A broad path, made by wood- 
cutters, afforded a convenient passage into the kloof. 
The eastern sun shone with great brightness into it, 
gilding the banks on both sides. They rise steep to a 
considerable height, and are clothed with a romantic 
wood of every species of tree growing in the country, 
innumerable flowering plants and shrubs covering the 
ground. Here and there masses of rock peep through 
the surrounding foliage. The rivulet rushes rapidly 
through the shady grove, over a stony bed, and we fol- 
lowed its course to a place where it forms a deep pool 
under a perpendicular rock. From the accidental posi- 
tion of the broken fragments of stone, piled up in order 
at its foot, this rock might, at some distance, be taken for 
a mass of basaltes. The water filled the whole space, 
and obliged us to ascend the hill. Having, however, 
satisfied ourselves as to the supply of water to be gained 



160 JOURNAL OF A 

from the rivulet, we returned to the tent, much pleased 
with the discoveries we had made. We made a favour- 
able report of them at an excellent breakfast, for which,, 
through Mr. Rex's goodness, we had been provided with 
every requisite, sweet milk, fresh butter, and good 
wheaten bread, and a partridge, shot by Mr. Melville. 

On reading the portions of scripture appointed for 
this day, rendered remarkable for being the first day on 
which we could execute part of the commission given to 
us, we were excited to fervent prayer, that the glory of 
the Lord might till this place also, if it be His gracious 
will, that here a settlement should be formed for the ga- 
thering together of a congregation of believers from 
among the Hottentot nation. To us it appeared in va- 
rious respects an eligible situation, though rejected by 
Dr. Van der Kemp, as not sufficiently large, and by our 
Hottentots, as not possessing sweet grass. There is land 
enough for a congregation of about five hundred per- 
sons, and probably the soil might be so much improved, 
as to produce every necessary article of subsistence, 
though some place of change, at certain seasons of the 
year, would be required for the cattle. Conveyance 
from the Cape is rendered easy, by ships sailing to Plet- 
tenberg Bay. 

After breakfast, the Veldcornet returned to us with 
Mr. P. a farmer living at the entrance of the vale, at whose 
house he had taken up his night's lodging ; and we set 
out, to make further inquiries into the nature of the soil, 
and other properties of the unoccupied land. Our horses 
were very lame, and stumbled grievously among the 
rushes and brushwood, through which we had to pass. 
We ascended the hill by a gulley, which appeared to us 
like the narrow bed of a water-course, but, by the re- 
port of the Veldcornet, was made by wild boars. Part 
of the ascent has good land, some fit for corn, and 
some for pasture, but the flat summit, which stretches 
far away towards the sea, is unfruitful. We passed along 
the edge of the hill, the farmer describing e\ery part of 
the vale in view, which he pronounced to be in many 
places fit for cultivation, especially for gardens and corn, 
the kloofs descending on the opposite side being well 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 161 

stored with wood, useful both for building and fuel. We 
now directed our course towards Mr. P.'s farm. 

From an opposite kloof, a rivulet furnishes a constant 
supply of water, sufficient to irrigate his garden, and 
forming a natural division between the two properties. 
From the heights above the farm, there is a fine view of 
Plettenberg Bay, the western point of which is marked 
by a promontory and small island, the resort of a vast 
number of seals; and the eastern, by a high, conical 
hill, called the Grenadier's cap. Several lower peaks 
appear to rise at its foot. We noticed here a gigantic 
species of a plant, from its singular form very properly 
called the chandelier. The specimen I obtained had 
twenty shoots, proceeding, in a direction nearly horizon- 
tal, from its centre, each a foot long, with a beautiful 
scarlet flower at its point. Its root is a bulb. A smaller 
species is common all over the waste. 

Having alighted, we walked to the house, along a gul- 
ley filled with fragments of a soft iron-stone, porous, and 
of various colours, brought off the hills by torrents. 
Some of it was flaky, full of larger or smaller cavities, 
filled with fine yellow ochre. Sand-stone and quartz lie, 
as usual, in abundance upon the surface of the ground. 

Mr. P. and his old mother received us with civility, and 
set before us what their house afforded, teidi-water^ bread 
and butter, and preserved quinces of excellent flavoun 
The hills opposite the farm are intersected by woody 
kloofs, and rendered picturesque by ledges of gray rock, 
with intermediate bushes. We were informed, that they 
swarm with apes and baboons, as likewise with tygers, 
wolves, and other wild animals; and though the latter 
seldom approach the dwellings, yet the cries of the poor 
antelopes and other game, seized and worried by them 
among the rocks and woods, are frequently heard below. 
Mr. P. walked with us into the garden, which is large 
and plentifully stocked with all "kinds of fruits, apples, 

Eears, peaches, quinces, oranges, and lemons, which he 
as some trouble to guard against the monkey tribes in- 
festing the neighbouring woods. 

When we first met, Mr. P. seemed shy and cautious, 
made the worst of every thing relating to Jackal's Kraal, 

21 



162 JOURNAL OF A 

that we might consider it as unfit for a missionary star 
tion; but hy degrees, he softened, and was ready to give ! 
every encouragement, hoping, that if a settlement was 
made, Hottentots would come into the country, and hands 
be obtained to assist in the farms. At present, the (ew 
Hottentot inhabitants are chieflj employed in cutting and 
preparing timber. Hitherto, Mr. P. has used the kraal 
for pasture-ground, as being an uninhabited spot, and as 
he would not wish to lose that convenience, he may be 
forgiven for viewing intruders with some suspicion. He 
showed his good sense and candour in so soon forsaking 
selfish views and prejudices. Men who have lived all 
their hfetime in so sequestered a state, remote from society, 
consider, of course, their own affairs as of the first con- 
sequence, to which they have been accustomed to sacri- 
fice every thing within their reach, not having discernment 
sufficient to judge of the relative importance of human 
concerns. Religion is generally quite out of the question, 
and its propagation considered as a secondary, if not 
wholly unnecessary business. 

The Veldcornet accompanied us through the valley to 
our little camp. On our way, we observed much good 
land, fit for gardens and pasture. A vast quantity of 
palmite covers the banks of the rivulet, which is always 
considered as a sign of good and rich soil, but it is very 
difficult to eradicate, having a strong tap-root, running 
deep into the marshy ground. Brother Stein, who had 
walked forward, called to us to observe a large bird of 
prey he had driven off a carcass, which, on coming up, 
we found to be that of a young kid, just killed, and its 
entrails torn out. The bird was not much intimidated, 
for he alighted at a short distance, from whence he ob- 
served us undismayed, ready to return to his prey ; and 
as we had neither the means, nor the right to prevent it, 
we left him to reap the benefit of his acquisition. Upon 
one of the bushy eminences to the right, I found the small 
aloe still in bloom, three weeks after they had left off 
showing any flowers at Groenekloof After our return 
to the camp, Mr. Melville and I continued our ride into 
the kloof, which we had visited this morning, and as the 



VlSl't TO SOUTH APRldA* 1(53 

^un was how at its height, the appearance of the wood^ 
water, and rocks, was extremely beautiful. 

Sister Schmitt meanwhile had not been idle, but after 
iVriting a letter, went with the Hottentots to the western 
side of the valley, and discoverefd, among the bushes, 
several pools of clear water, which she now advised us 
to visit. This was done, arid we were convinced, that 
there is water sufficient for every purpose, and in every 
season, to serve a town of four or five hundred inhabit- 
ants. 

We now took leave of JackaPs Krall, with thanks to 
the landdrost, for having made us acquainted, both with 
Mr. Rex, and with a situation not unworthy of consi- 
deration in the choice of a missionary settlement in this 
colony, notwithstanding the objections raised by our 
Hottentots, who ever prefer the rearing and tending of 
cattle, to labour in the field, and the rearing of crops. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Deparlure from JackaPs KraaL View of Plettenberg J^ay. 
Restless night. Passing over the Paerdekop Mountain 
into the Lange Kloof Wild Scenery. Dangerous road. 
Delay at fClip Revier. Receipt of letters from Ensrland. 
Enter the Lange Kloof farms of Well-gelegen^ Ungelegen^ 
ahd Kliphuebel. Mr. Fereira^s rencontre with a tyger. 

Our worthy friend, Mr. Rex, in proposing to detain us 
some days longer at his house, had informed us, that we 
might gain time by not returning to Mr. Zaayman's, and 
going over the Duivel's kop into the Lange Kloof, but 
by crossing the niountains by the Paerdekop, which, in a 
fine season, like the present, might be easily effected. 
We resolved, therefore, to take his advice, and proceed 
towards the Paerdekop. After reaching the top of the 
western boundary of Jackal's Kraal, our road lay over a 
flat, dismal country, to the Veldcornet's house, seen 
through an opening between low hills. On the road, a 
slave, attempting to get on the box^ without stopping the 



i64 JaiTKNAL OF A 

wagon, fell, and the fore-wheel passing over part of bis 
leg, hurt him severely. Bukku brandy being repeated- 
ly applied by Brother Stein, the pain was soon relieved, 
and inflammation prevented. 

Mr. Melville had gone in quest of game, and shot two 
partridges, which, though in itself of not much impor- 
tance, proved, under present circumstances, a most ac- 
ceptable gift, our stock of fresh provisions being consum- 
ed. The Veldcornet's house is pleasantly situated at the 
meeting of three valleys, and notice being given of our 
arrival, we were kindly received, and treated w^ith a 
well-dressed plain dinner. Mrs. Van Huysteyn after- 
wards presented Sister Schmitt with two cocks, a large 
square bottle of wild honey, and some other useful arti- 
cles, and her husband accompanied us for some miles. 
His father, a venerable old Dutch gentleman, had been 
at Zeyst in Holland, and seemed pleased to see friends 
belonging to the same fraternity. 

Having forded the Wittedrift, a brook running into 
the Kierbooms Revier, we began to ascend the heights^ 
from which we had a full view of its course, and of 
Plettenberg Bay. The vessel, regularly employed to 
convey timber to the Cape, lay at anchor not far from 
the shore. The bay, however, being exposed to the 
southeast, from whence the wind generally blows with 
violence, makes it unsafe for any vessel to He in it longer 
than necessity requires: otherwise, it affords great con- 
venience to the inhabitants, to have communication with 
the Cape by water. The same advantage would like- 
wise attend the possession of Jackal's KraaL 

While Mr. Melville was vainly following .one of those 
cunning birds, the wild peacock, a bluebock, one of the 
smallest antelopes, started up, not far fiom the road. 
The Hottentots could not resist the temptation, but both 
our own people and the guides and drivers left the wa- 
gons, and, with two dogs, set off full speed in pursuit. 
As this animal is not as swift as others of the same kind, 
he may be run down in the open field by a swift-footed 
Hottentot; and now, but for his dexterous turnings and 
doublings, would have been taken, had he not reached a 
wood, and thus narrowly escaped. It was yery amusing 



VISIT TO SOUTH APRICAi, 165 

to US to see the chase, and the disappointed looks of the 
returning huntsmen. The fur of the bluebock is re- 
markably fine; brown, changing with a blueish gray. 
It was quite dark before we arrived at a farm, the pos- 
sessor of which, after some hesitation, permitted us to 
pitch our tent and unyoke our oxen in the field before 
his house. We kindled a fire, and after a supper, con- 
sisting of coffee, bread and honey, lay down to rest. We 
w^ere, however, prevented going to sleep till near two 
o'clock in the morning, by a drunken Hottentot, whom 
neither the exhortations of Brother Schmitt, nor the more 
forcible means used by Brother Stein, who thrust him 
out of a Hottentot house, where, in quarrelling and fight- 
ing with a woman, he had bitten a piece out of her arm, 
could bring to reason. 

24th. During the night, black clouds had overspread 
the heavens, but providentially dispersed at sunrise, and 
the morning proved fine. Had it turned to rain, we 
durst not have ventured to proceed, and to encounter the 
passage across the mountains. The farmer seemed last 
night not much disposed to assist us; but Sister Schmitt 
had this morning got into favour both with him and his 
wife, and procured a supply of bread, milk, and cab- 
bages. After breakfast we set out, and soon entered 
upon roads not easily described, so as to give to English- 
men an adequate idea of them. How those African wa- 
gons can bear such thumping, bouncing, twisting, and 
screwing between rocks, and large masses of broken 
stones, irregularly piled upon each other, is almost be- 
yond belief. But the Creator has mercifully provided 
for the wants of men in all countries. Here grows that 
valuable wood called Eysterhout, or ironwood, so hard, 
and likewise so tough, that an axle-tree made of it will 
bear more than an iron one of twice its thickness. 

The views from the heights are most singular. I wisK 
I were able to paint them, so as to present a true picture 
to my reader's imagination. Along tha horizon to the 
east and south-east, runs the range of high mountains, 
enclosing the Lange Kloof, and exhibiting a rugged out- 
line, with many peaks. Before them are ranges of 
lower hills, of which^ from one point, we counted no 



166 ^^OURNAL OF A 

less than five, running parallel to each other, attd tn-^ 
tersected vertically by numberless kloofs, likewise iri 
parallel lines, so as to give to the whole the appearance 
of division by art. These kloofs are partly naked, partly 
filled with bushes, or lined on each side with rocks. To 
the right of the road, the slope of the hill, sinking into a 
deep glen beneath, grew more and more steep, as we 
proceeded, and in some places to that degree, that we 
began to give credit to the stories of wagons and oxen 
rolling down altogether, and being seen no more. A 
misfortune of this kind is said to have happened to a 
wagon in General Dundas's retinue, when going over 
the Duivilskop. 

In about two hours, we reached the Pa^rdekop 
(Horse's Head) mountain, over the very summit of which 
we had to pass. Its steepness in all directions renders 
it impossible to carry the road round its sides. Our ex- 
hausted oxen w^ere hardly able to drag the wagons along^ 
and we were obliged again to have recourse to a double 
spann. The sand-stone rock, forming the mass of the 
mountain, appears lying in strata nearly perpendicular, 
besides which, a vast number of large loose fragments 
are strewed upon its surface. Many of them are clothed 
with a lichen of a bright vermilion colour. Quartz lies 
in veins, or in detached pieces. The soil produces a 
variety of bushes, flowering shrubs and aloes, between 
the stones. With the help of our men, bearing the wa- 
gon up on either side, as the slope of the road required, 
and suffering our cattle to rest every two or three 
minutes, we at length surmounted every difficulty, and 
got safely across this dreaded mountain, to an out-spann 
placi^ in a dreary wilderness. After an hour's rest, we 
set out again, and our groom, Leonhard, having pointed 
out a footpath, by which we might shorten our road. 
Brother and Sister Schmitt and I ventured upon it. It 
led us through a rocky glen, into which a stone, accidental- 
ly rolling down from the heights above, produced such a 
grand effect, that w^e amused ourselves for some time 
with great zeal, in repeating the experiment. 

Meeting an old gray-headed Hottentot, with a long 
beard, dressed only in a kaross and skin apron, we en- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 167 

tered into conversation with him. I presented him with 
0, (ew doppelgens, (penny pieces.) He thanked me, and 
observed, that of all things in the world he loved money 
best. Brother Schmitt asked him, whether he did not 
love God better, to which he rephed, that he knew no- 
thing of him. This gave the missionary an opportunity 
of declaring to him the love of God to man, and to di- 
rect the poor old man to Jesus, who had loved him unto 
death, and deserved to be loved above every thing in 
earth and heaven. The Hottentot listened with atten- 
tion and surprise, and promised to think on that which 
he had now heard, and pray to God to give him grace 
to understand it.. 

After a tedious and troublesome walk, we arrived at 
a kraal, near a valley, where an aged Hottentot lived, 
W4th two slaves. The kraal consisted of a circular build- 
ing of reeds and rushes, covered with grass, a garden 
near the brook, and a small enclosure for cattle. Two 
shaggy dogs announced our arrival with loud barking, 
which brought out the old man, accompanied, to our 
comfort, by Leonhard, who had reached the place be- 
fore us, and turned our horses into the field to graze. 
The man seemed much pleased with our visit, and not 
well fitted for a hermit. On leaving him, we descended 
into the valley, crossed the brook, and mounted a steep 
hill,^from which, in a short time, we discovered our wa- 
gons coming down the woody glen. They followed us 
up the hill, which proved one of the longest ascents and 
heaviest roads in the whole journey. Here I found the 
first crystals of quartz, diminutive indeed, but clear, 
in veins and fissures of sand-stone, and, in general, more 
disposition to crystallization in the quartz, than I had 
ever met with before in this country. Had w^e foot-pas- 
sengers not to go so far forward up the hill, before the 
w agons arrived at the bottom, it was the boor's intention 
to have spent the night in the valley. 

After gaining the summit, we passed through a barren 
heath, and arrived long after sunset at a place called 
Kloetes Kraal. Here was neither house, nor Hotten- 
tot's hut ; but some pieces of timber, the remnants of an 
old habitation, lying on the ground, enabled us to kindle 



]68 JOURNAL OF A 

two large fires. I had been troubled with headach 
during the latter part of our journey, and as soon as 
my mattress could be got ready, lay down in the wagon 
to rest. While supper was cooking, which for some 
days was our only meal. Sister Schmitt, knowing that I 
generally find rehef in strong coffee, but should have re-^ 
fused giving her additional trouble, prepared it unob- 
served, and unexpectedly brought me a basin of it into the 
tent, before I ascended into my dormitory. Services so 
generous, and unasked for, deserve to be recorded with 
gratitude; nor is this the first time, that I have ex- 
perienced the exquisite delight of indulging a grateful 
sense of the disinterested and unsolicited services of my 
South African Brethren and friends, whose unmerited 
kindness towards me on every occasion, will ever remain 
deeply impressed upon my heart. 

The situation of our encampment was dreary in the 
extreme, high and bleak, surrounded with low eminences, 
which shut ©ut the view of the mountains, not a tree in 
sight, and far distant from the dwellings of men. During 
the night, which was very dark, I was roused from sleep, 
by perceiving some odd motion of the wagon. I sat up, 
and for a moment felt afraid, that some wild beast had 
approached our camp, when one of the wheels seemed 
'fairly lifted off the ground by some external force. Being 
so closely shut in, that I could not discover the cause, I 
called to the Hottentots, who were sleeping round the 
fire, to come to my assistance, and my shouts alarmed 
the whole party. It was soon found, that the innocent 
author of this disturbance was one of our horses, who, 
having returned from the place, where he had been sent 
to feed, was amusing himself by scrubbing his back 
against the wheel. He was, of course, driven away, but 
soon returned to my great annoyance, till my patience 
being exhausted, I got up, and sent him off to some dis- 
tance. Notwithstanding my rest had been thus broken, 
when the morning dawned, I rose with the rest of the 
company, in perfect health. 

We now found that our sociable friend from the round 
kraal had followed the wagons, and arrived with our 
Hottentots, after we had retired to rest. He had thufe 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 169 

gained a good deal of amusement, and, we hope, some 
useful information and instruction, besides partaking of 
their supper and breakfast. We were at least six miles 
from his hermitage, and our arrival was to him, no 
doubt, an event of much importance. 

25th. The boor, who brought us thus far, had behaved 
with so much reserve, and had such a forbidding counte- 
nance, that we had set him down for a very sulky fel- 
low ; but we now found ourselves so much at his mercy 
in this wilderness, where we might have waited long 
enough for a relay of oxen, that we resolved to try his 
temper, and whether he had good nature enough left, to 
agree to put us forward another "skoff," or day's jour- 
ney. Brother Schmitt conducted the negotiation, and 
having represented our case, found him much more plia- 
ble than expected ; and surely one ought not always to 
judge of a man's heart by the cut of his face* After some 
silent consultation with his own feelings, he observed, 
that he could not be satisfied, to leave us in this desert, 
but, though his oxen were tired, he would bring us to 
Klip Revier, on Kierbooms Revier, being the first farm 
in the Lange Kloof For this exertion of good^will, he 
was treated with coffee and brandy, and, at the end of 
the journey, with a good meal, and a Gnadenthal knife. 

We set out after breakfast, and walked along a steep, 
broken ridge of barren hills, while the wagons took the 
road lower down. Wild boars having been seen this morn- 
ing on a neighbouring hill, Marcus was sent with a rifle 
gun to try to get some venison,but returned without having 
discovered their retreat. In fact, we could not spare any 
of our people, as every assistance was wanted to keep 
the wagons from oversetting. We had now arrived 
among kloofs and low hills, each of which, however, 
would have obtained the name of mountain in the midland 
counties of England. They are uniformly very steep, 
and the ravines dividing them, full of huge stones, rocks, 
and bushes. One must see such a wild and truly horrid 
region as we passed through, to have any conception of 
it. It is in vain to attempt to describe it. The weather 
had appeared very unpromising in the morning, but 
cleared up, though the sun did not break forth till 



170 JOUliNAL OF A 

late in the day, which kept us and our cattle cool. We 
were indeed highly favoured in venturing to make the 
passage over the Paerdekop into the Lange Kloof. Had 
it rained, we might have been detained among the moun- 
tains many days, as is the fate of many a traveller. The 
people belonging to a wagon we met on the road, in- 
formed us that they had been three days on the journey, 
and had the misfortune twice to overset. 

After a tedious, difficult, and, I may say, dangerous 
passage over many a hill and glen, we made one hour's 
out-spann in a deep valley enclosed on all sides by steep 
banks, and got a luncheon of bread and honey. Brother 
Stein mounted a rock, unobserved, and played on his 
flute the tune of that hymn, " JVow let us praise the hord^^ 
while we all felt disposed to join with heart and voices; 
for we had indeed cause to praise the Lord for bringing 
us thus far in safety. Our musician afterwards regaled 
the English ears among us, with " God save great George 
our King^^^ which we may venture to say has never yet 
been heard in this part of his Majesty's dominions. 1 re- 
mained in the wagon, writing myjournal. 

After our refreshment, w^e entered with renewed cou- 
rage upon our toilsome journey, of which, indeed, the 
poor oxen had more cause to complain than we. Sixteen 
drew the heavy, and twelve the light wagon. We had 
our full complement of drivers and leaders, who with 
our own Hottentots found sufficient employ. Let no one 
ever hereafter complain of the passage of Hottentot-Hol- 
land's Kloof, or the Haue Hoek near Gnadenthal, who 
has passed over these roads, or rather plunged up and 
down these precipices. Barren as these mountains in 
general appear, they yet afford a rich harvest for the 
botanist, and we found several curious plants, unknown 
to our best botanist, Mr. Melville. In some places, the 
rugged sides of the hills are clothed with aloes, and other 
larger plants, and as we proceeded, we saw, on many 
hills, the so-called Wageboom growing dispersed, re- 
sembling a planted orchard, the trees' standing fifteen 
or twenty paces asunder. Of wild creatures, we saw 
only a few rehbock antelopes, but being excessively shy, 
out huntsmen Schmitt and Melville rode or ran after 
them in vain. Elephants, wild boars, wolves, and tygers- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. ITl 

as likewise baboons, haunt these desolate regions, the 
first however, only where thej find wood and water. 

One of our young drivers related to his companion, 
that at the round kraal, which we visited yesterday, he 
"watched a tyger for several nights successively, climbing 
up the poles of the hen-roost. This is a platform made 
of branches of trees covered with bushes or grass, sup- 
ported by four or more uprights, about ten or twelve feet 
high, to which the cocks and hens fly, about sunset, and 
there roost during the night, out of the reach of mause^ 
hunde, foxes, and other destructive animals. Nor can ty- 
gers, or wild cats, well scramble up a smooth pole, with 
an overhanging superstructure. The tyger had succeeded 
in seizing one or two chickens, near the edge of the roost, 
and the Hottentot was determined to stop his thieving. 
He made two small holes in the side of the Kraal, one 
for the muzzle of his gun, the other for his eye, behind 
which he lay in ambush. The tyger soon came, and 
clasping one of the poles with his claw^s, seemed contri- 
ving how best to mount to the platform. At that mo- 
ment the lad fired, and the animal fell, but uttered so 
loud a roar, that, thinking him yet alive, and likely, in 
his fury, to make an attack upon the kraal, he first let 
out his dog. The dog soon put an end to the tyger's 
life, as he had received the shot through his body. 

About five o'clock, w^e arrived at Klip Revier, and 
w^ere welcomed by a friendly farmer of the name of 
Barkhuis, but who had it not in his power to put us for- 
ward to-day. We therefore sent a message to the Veld* 
cornet, to have <oxen ready for us to-morrow at the next 
station. Thither our host proposed to bring us, but not 
before noon. As the orders of the landdrost to the 
Veldcornets were given, under the supposition, that we 
should cross the mountains by Mr. Zaayman's, and over 
the Duivelskop, it was our own fault that we did not 
meet with relays on this road. We thus lost more in 
time than we gained in distance. Having pitched our 
tent in the field near the house, and given our host a good 
supper, we enjoyed a comfortable night's rest. 

26th. We breakfasted in the house with the family, 
and had the pleasure of treating them with a dish of ge- 



172 JOURNAL OF A 

nuine and welUmade coffee. They are poor, and have 
many children, whom they find it difficult to maintain. 
Wherever we found this to be the case, far from wishing 
to lessen their stock of provisions, by our requisitions, we 
gave them what we could afford, out of the supplies we 
had brought with us, or purchased from richer boors. 
But though they were poor, Mr. and Mrs- Barkhuis 
treated us in return ; and sweeter grapes and richer 
milk, we had no where tasted, since we left Gnadenthal. 
Some friends of our host were here, and dined with us. 
Their conversation turned upon that never-failing sub- 
ject of complaint against the English Government, the 
new taxes, and the measuring and valuing of the lands. 

About two o'clock, we left Klip Revier, and set out for 
Kierbooms Revier, belonging to the mother of our host, 
where we expected to procure relays. The road was 
very uneven, in many places steep and rocky, and having 
our host's son, a huge lad of seventeen, for our driver, 
his giddiness and inattention caused us considerable 
alarm. In about three hours, we arrived at the above- 
mentioned place, where we not only found no oxen, but 
po tidings of the resdt of our message to the Veldcor- 
net. Here, therefore, we were again detained, with a 
family apparently not well pleased with our visit. An 
old lady, of extraordinary bulk, and determined counte- 
nance, occupied one corner of the room, and not a smile 
or inviting word bid us welcome. After staring some 
time at one another, the usual laconic address was utter- 
ed ; " Sit" was the word, and we sat down. " Tea-wa- 
ter" was next offered, and we heard afterwards that we 
were expected to sup with the family, but no invitation 
being given, we thought best to bid them good night, and 
retreat into our tent. 

27th. We were amused this morning by all manner of 
contradictory accounts, given by a half-drunken dragoon, 
as to his having seen a packet of letters from England 
at the Veldcornet's house, addressed to me. It seemed 
ahnost incredible, but, to my very great satisfaction, 
proved a true tale, for the packet was delivered to me 
in the afternoon by a dragoon. It contained letters from 
my family of November, and December, and fromfriend^ 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 173 

in London ; and had been forwarded to me by the kind- 
ness of Mr. Van Kervel. The receipt of this welcome 
present, in this dreary region, contributed much to les- 
sen the regret we felt at meeting again with so unplea- 
sant a detention. We had sent a boy on horseback to 
the Veldcornet, to obtain information respecting the re- 
lays, in consequence of which, that gentleman arrived 
in the afternoon. He had provided the necessary relays, 
but having ordered them, some days ago, on the road to- 
wards the Duivelskop, they w^ere now countermanded, 
and directed hither* Meanwhile Sister Schmitt had got 
into favour with the old lady and her daughters, who 
now insisted upon taking our meals with them, Mr. 
Melville and I were employed during the day in draw- 
ing and writing, and some of us took a walk into the 
rocky glen, out of which the Kierbooms Revier flows, in 
a deep bottom. The rocks on each side appear in stra- 
ta of considerable breadth, with bushes interspersed. 
They are of sand-stone, coloured by iron, with much 
quartz. But the most remarkable feature of the coun- 
try, are the hills to the eastward, exhibiting, as it were, 
a huge bank, with an even ridge, divided downwards in 
parallel lines by narrow kloofs. At the bottom of each 
kloof lies a round hillock, formed, to all appearance, by 
earth and stones washed down out of the kloof. This 
singular formation of whole ranges of hills in this part of 
Africa, is a geological phenomenon, perhaps more easily 
explained than some others ; but what with their barren- 
ness and their regularity, they are unpleasant objects to 
the eye of a lover of the picturesque. 

In the evening, Mrs. Barkhuis proposed that Brother 
Schmitt should deliver a discourse to the family, the 
Hottentots and slaves in her service being admitted. 
This was done; about thirty persons were present, and 
we hope that the Lord, who has promised that His 
'' word shall not return void, but accomplish the thincr 
whereunto it is sent,'' will have caused some of the seeS 
sow^n to have fallen into ground prepared by His Spirit 
to receive it, so as to bring forth fruit. The Hottentots 
and slaves were particularly attentive, and expressed af- 
terwards their thanks \q Brother Schmitt, and their 



174 JOURNAL OF A 

earnest wish, that, in this neighbourhood, a settlement 
might be formed, where they might hear the word of 
God. From our own Hottentots they heard much of 
Gnadenthal, and of the benefits enjoyed by their coun- 
trymen living in our settlements, and, no doubt, profited 
by the unadorned and simple account given them of the 
way of salvation by faith in Jesus. 

28th. Being now in high favour with the old lady, she 
invited us to an early breakfast, after which we set out, 
passing over rough roads, into the narrower part of the 
Lange Kloof, properly so called, being a vale of perhaps 
a hundred miles in length, enclosed by mountains of dif- 
ferent heights. On entering upon it, we felt not a little 
disappointed. We were no longer amused with a mag- 
nificent show of peaks, table-mountains, or round tops in 
succession, but saw a long ridge of comparatively low 
hills, divided, as above described, by narrow, parallel 
kloofs, without wood or water, skirting a dull, uncultiva- 
ted vale. On one of the hills we descried a company of 
baboons. They first seemed to wait our approach, but 
soon retreated in haste towards the summit. In vain we 
looked for the rich country and pleasant farms described 
by some travellers, and after passing some mean-looking 
houses, halted on the waste. 

In the afternoon, we arrived at a farm called Welgele- 
gen^ where we were received with civility, and got a fresh 
relay of oxen. The region of sand-stone, iron, and 
quartz, continued, but tlie country began to look better, 
and some beautiful groups of high mountains were seen, 
in dilFerent directions. It was dark before we reached 
another farm called Ungelegen^ where not having any 
choice, we pitched our tent, by the faint light of some 
fires on the neighbouring hills, on the werft or yard, 
which was little better than a dunghill. Before we lay 
down to rest, it began to lighten and thunder, and 
during the night, some squalls, with showers, disturbed 
our rest. 

29th. We were glad, when the day dawned, to quit 
this unclean spot. The clouds were still hovering on 
the mountains, but we found ourselves in a more inte- 
resting country, and exery now and then a charming 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 175 

prospect opened. After about an hour's ride, we saw 
wagons and horsemen coming to meet us. They were a 
transport of Hottentot Soldiers with some dragoons, re- 
turning from the interior. Among the former, two or 
three belonged to our people, and had some conversa- 
tion with Brother Schmitt. The officers followed in a 
horse-wagon. 

This forenoon Mr. Melville found some employment 
for his gun, but owing to a dog, belonging to the driver, 
who had followed the wagons, could not succeed. This 
animal, as soon as he saw any game, made off full speed 
towards them. Thus, they could never be brought with- 
in shot. 

Soon after parting with the military, we met the 
Veldcornet, Stephen Fereira, and his son on horseback, 
following the soldiers. He informed us that relays were 
provided at his farm, Kliphubel, where we arrived about 
noon, but did not meet with a very gracious reception. 
No notice was taken of us, and Mrs. Fereira suffered 
Sister Schmitt to go about seeking water and milk for 
breakfast, wherever she could find it, without offering 
her the least assistance. The wind was very cold, and 
we endeavoured to screen ourselves behind the stump 
of an old tree, in the middle of the yard. At length our 
hostess relented, and sent word, that we might come and 
take our tea in the house. She even set before us a 
dish of excellent rehbock-venison. Her son, an intelli- 
gent young man, with whom I had much conversation 
after dinner, gave me an interesting account of his fa- 
ther's history. The Fereira's are of Portuguese origin. 
His great grandfather (or one above him, 1 forget 
which) was the only person saved from a Portuguese 
ship, which foundered at sea, off the Cape. He got 
upon a plank, which supported him for three days, and 
rowing with his hands in a direction in which he ex- 
pected to find land, by God's mercy, he succeeded, and 
reached the Cape shore, though nearly exhausted, and 
perishing with hunger. Here, by industry, he and his 
successors raised themselves into creditable situations. 
Of his father, a singular instance of courage and good 
fortune is told. A large tyger having long infested his 



176 JOURNAL OF A 

premises and the neighbourhood, and killed many sheep 
belonging to him and other boors, a party assembled 
to endeavour to destroy the monster. His haunt being 
discovered, Mr. Fereira vras foremost in the attack, 
when the tyger instantly made a spring at him, as he sat 
on horseback, the rest of the party not having come up, 
and only one slave being with him. The horse taking 
fright, ran off with his rider, who was but slightly 
wounded. The tyger was meanwhile attacked by all 
the dogs, and a furious contest ensued. Mr. Fereira, not 
intimidated, as soon as he could again command his 
horse, returned to the charge, and encouraged the dogs 
by the usual cry of Zaza, Zaza. The enraged animal, 
hearing this cry, quitted the dogs, and flew a second time 
at Mr. Fereira's head, when with one gripe he tore off 
his scalp, and threw him upon the ground, where he was 
proceeding, with teeth and claws, to put an end to his 
existence. The faithful slave, seeing his master in such 
imminent danger, ran to his assistance, and attempted to 
stab the tyger with a knife. The infuriated beast, how- 
ever, w^as too quick for him, seized his hand with his 
teeth, and flung him upon his master, doing his best to 
kill them both, which, by his strength and swiftness of 
motion, he probably would have accomplished, had not 
the other huntsmen, coming up, shot him through the 
heart, and thus delivered the sufferers. Though Mr. 
Fereira was dreadfully hurt, and his life for some time 
despaired of, he completely recovered. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 177 

CHAPTER X- 

Wagebooms Revier. Oversetting of the baggage-wagon. 
^rather Stein much hurt. Difficulty of procuring oxen. 
Ellatidsfonteyn. Kromm Revier. Jagersbosch. Account 
of a young tyger killed. Objections to a settlement near a 
high-road, farms deserted on account of taxation. De- 
scription of m encampment at Essenbosch. Account of 
the appearance and dwelling of the lady of the manor. 
Soekow. Ungracioiis reception at a Veldcornefs house. 
His apology. Remarks on the fruits of conversion to 
Christianity. Winterhoeks mountains. 

At one o'clock, we left Kliphubel. Our road lay along 
the Wagebooms Revier, which takes its name from the 
quantity of Wageboom, loosely covering the hills on each 
side. About sunset, we arrived at a farm, bearing the 
same name, and had some thoughts of taking up our 
abode here for the night; but hearing that the roads 
were good, and being impatient to proceed, we went 
forward, and arrived at another farm, called Oliviers, 
intending, if possible, to reach the place of a Mr. Mey, 
on Kromm Revier, where we expected to find a relay 
of oxen ready for us. Having crossed a large brook 
with a rough bo I torn of loose stones, we found the road 
sandy, and easy, and though the night was very dark, 
we pleased ourselves with the thoughts of being no lon- 
ger among rocks and precipices, in constant danger of 
oversetting. 

The weather in the afternoon had turned out rather 
unfavourable, and we expected a rainy, windy night, yet 
every now and then, the stars appeared, and while we 
were amused by a sudden flash of light, not much infe- 
rior in brightness to what is called white lightning, oc- 
casioned by a shooting star, all on a sudden, a crash was 
heard, and the baggage-wagon being foremost, and con- 
spicuous by its white covering, vanished out of sight. 
The careless leader, a Hottentot lad, had suffered the 
oxen to turn upon the grassy bank, which on each side, 
by degrees, rose to the height of two feet above the 

23 



178 JOURNAL OF A 

level of the road. On turning in again, both wheels 
sHpping off the edge of the bank at once, the wagon im- 
mediately overset, and fell into the hollow, with its top 
downwards. Brother Stein was lying in it, fast asleep. 
We instantly quitted our wagon to come to his assis- 
tance. To our great sorrow, we foand him much hurt, 
both in his head and right arm, particularly in the latter. 
He felt faint, and stunned with the blow. Our first busi- 
ness, therefore, was to do all in our power to afford him 
relief. The oxen were unyoked, the tent set up, and a 
fire kindled with some bushes, which our Hottentots, 
contrary to their usual custom, had gathered, and tied 
behind the wagon. It was well, that, for once, they had 
been so provident, for the place where the overthrow 
happened was quite destitute of bushes or any kind of 
fuel. 

The night was so dark, that we could not see far 
around us, but only perceived, that we were in a valley 
between low, barren eminences, with a flat top. With a 
view to discover whether there were any bushes in the 
neighbourhood, we set the dry grass and rushes on fire. 
The fire ran along so fast, that I began to be apprehen- 
sive, that in case we were near any dwellings, or Hot- 
tentot huts, mischief might ensue, and with much trouble 
we extinguished it again, but not before it had afforded 
light sufficient to examine the damage done, and to see 
Brother Stein comfortably housed and put to bed in the 
tent. He bore his misfortune with uncommon fortitude 
and resignation, never uttering a single complaint against 
the careless Hottentot leaders and drivers, who had been 
the cause of it. He was not able to lift his arm, but did 
not think that it was fractured, and, as none of us possess- 
ed the least skill in surgical affairs, we were obliged to 
leave him to apply what he thought best. The bottle 
of bukku brandy was not broken, and this was the only 
medicine he used, from first to last. 

We now began to examine the wagon, when, to our 
great joy, we found, that it had not received the slightest 
injury by the fall. That part of the hollow road, into which 
it had fallen, was full of fine sand, soft and yielding, where- 
as, if it had overset about half a dozen paces sooner, or 
as many farther forward, it would have fallen upon ^ 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 179 

bare rock, and probably been greatly damaged. The 
mischief done to the contents of the wagon was hkewise 
not so great as might have been expected. A few cups, 
saucers, and plates were broken, but we regretted most 
of all the total loss of our stock of wild honey, both jars 
being thrown out of the wagon-chest and dashed to pieces, 
and all their sweet contents spilt in the sand. After 
emptying the wagon, and setting all hands to work, we 
lifted it up, drew it forward upon even ground, and pack- 
ed it again. Providentially, we were favoured with bet- 
ter weather. Brother Stein, after the pain in his head 
and arm had somewhat abated, regained his usual cheer- 
fulness, expressed thankfulness to the Lord that it was 
no worse, and perfect resignation to this dispensation, 
which he was assured was meant for good, and only re-^ 
gretted, that he should be for a season prevented from 
rendering us any assistance. He even retained his ap- 
petite, and as we were supplied with a good supper by 
our faithful caterer, he ate heartily of it. 

Each having contributed as much as was in his power 
to set matters again in order, when we met together in 
the tent, we could not but reflect on the situation into 
which we were unexpectedly thrown. While exposed 
to dangers among frightful precipices and rocks, in the 
mountains and defiles, through which we had passed, we 
had met with no accident whatever; but here, when we 
thought ourselves perfectly safe, and on level ground, 
we were suddenly brought into trouble, by this unlooked- 
for event. We were humbled under the mighty, but mer- 
ciful hand of our God and Saviour, and commended our- 
selves anew to His protection, of which, even now, we 
have experienced a singular proof, in the manner in which 
we met with this accident, as above stated. One of the 
company observed, that in every dispensation, with which 
the Lord visits His people, there is a voice, a word of 
admonition, reproof, or encouragement, and it would be 
right and profitable, on the present occasion, for each of 
us to be attentive to it ; for if we are His sheep, we shall 
be taught to know His voice, and well to distinguish it 
from the voice of a stranger. 

During the night, not being disposed to sleep, I thought 



180 JOURNAL OF A 

much on our situation, uncertain whai injury Brother 
Stein might have received, and whether, perhaps, our 
progress might not be interrupted, if not our plans frus- 
trated, by this circumstance. Whenever I perceived him 
stirring on his mattress, I asked softly, how he felt, and 
always received that comforting answer, that he did not 
think that his arm was broken. He begged no altera- 
tion in our plan might be made on his account, and ex-- 
pressed his trust in God, that no further harm was done 
than that he was for a time disabled, and we should miss 
his assistance on the journey. Meanwhile we all waited 
anxiously for the morning, and considered it as very pro- 
vidential that it did not rain. Rain would have render- 
ed our situation much more inconvenient and distressing, 
and the small stock of fuel we had brought with us, serv- 
ed us and our people no longer than was necessary to 
cook some victuals. 

30th. The morning's dawn showed us the surround- 
ing country : a dreary waste, a valley without water, 
enclosed between barren hills. The same careless fel- 
low, who had been the immediate cause of all the mischief, 
had left the oxen to stray so far from the wagon, that all 
search for them seemed to be vain. In about three 
hours, Jeremias discovered and brought them back. 
Meanwhile, Brother Schmittand Marcus had walked on 
to Mr. Mey's farm, on Kromra Revier, where we had in- 
tended to spend the night, to announce our arrival, and 
procure the relays. Lebrecht Aris was gone forward 
in another direction, to order a second spann. The 
Hottentots belonging to the relays were wandering 
about, on a vain search for the strayed cattle, and we 
were left alone with Johannes and Jeremias. We were 
therefore all obliged to assist in yoking the oxen, some 
of which did not seem to have much respect for their new 
masters, but ran about, or showed a threatening pair of 
horns. At length they were subdued, and having made up 
a bed in the baggage-wagon for our wounded companion, 
we proceeded, and reached the hill above Mr. Mey's 
farm. On inquiry, we heard that Brother Schmitt had 
sent Marcus forward to a farmer of the same name for 
at relay, and was himself gone to Ellandsfonteyn, a place 



VISIT To SOUTH AFRICA. 181 

belonging^ to Mr. Piet Fereira. Sister Schmitt and I 
followed him, while Mr. Melville staid with the wagons 
We met him returning, and though he had got no Jxen 
he was well pleased with his visit. The farmer's wife 
was anxiouslj concerned for the salvation of her soul, 
and verj eager to hear from him, in what way she might 
hnd rest. He showed her, from the scriptures, that she 
could not obtam it, but by coming to Jesus, according to 
H.s own gracious invitation, given to " all that labour 
and are heavily laden." She seemed to derive comfort 
Irom his encouraging address. He recommended to her 
to read the bible, with prayer, that the Spirit of T'ruth 
might explam to her soul the word of the Cross, which 
IS "the power of God unto salvation to every one that 
beheveth." He had also met with a man from the Cham- 
toos Kevier, who gave him much useful information about 
that country, and of its occupation by many new settlers. 
A Hottentot irom Gnadenthal had already made our 
errand known among the farmers. One of them, on a 
visit to Mr Piet Fereira, informed Brother Schmitt, that 
he had a place exactly suited to our purpose, which he 
wished to dispose of, and would have him immediately 
come to see and judge for himself. Brother Schmitt pro-^ 
raised, that if we discovered nothing to suit us in Uiten- 
hagen district, we would, on our return, call and look at 
nis place. 

As we could not procure the oxen we wanted, we pro- 
ceeded with those we had brought with us, to a valley, 
whither Mr. Marcus had ordered two spanns to meet us! 
Here we turned the former adrift, leaving them to find 
their way home, which they are sure to do, though no 
driver be with them. We were very thankful t5 Mr. 
Marcus for his civility, especially as he had at first de- 
clared, that he would not furnish any oxen, except by 
command of his own Veldcornet. ^ 

Our road lay through a narrow vale, with the Kromm 
Revier runmng m a deep bottom. This river rises in a 
barren glen, above Mr. Mey's farm, and must be often 
forded, as 1 winds from side to side, and truly deserves 
the appellation of the Kromm, or crooked river 

Our next station was Jagersbosch, a farm belonging to 



1 82 JOURNAL OF A 

a German of the name of Akkerman, who received us 
very civilly, and promised to send us forward in the morn- 
ing. A tyger had just been killed by one of his Hotten- 
tots, and two dragoons were helping him to skin the 
animal, the carcass being still warm. It was a beauti- 
ful young creature. The manner in which it was killed 
deserves notice. The Hottentot having discovered his 
haunt, went out with ten dogs, but without any other 
weapon than a club. As soon as the animal perceived 
the dogs advancing, he fixed his fiery eyes upon the man^ 
and flew towards him. The Hottentot presented his 
kaross as a shield, and succeeded in warding off the 
stroke and throwing the tyger upon his back, when the 
dogs, instantly falling upon him, kept him down, till the 
Hottentot had an opportunity of hitting him some severe 
blows on the head with his club, by which he was stun- 
ned, and then stoned to death. The skin was not injured, 
and 1 promised the conqueror to purchase it on my re- 
turn, if I found it well tanned. 

Our tent being pitched near the river, we spent a quiet 
night. Brother Stein complained of more pain in his arm, 
but continued to apply bukku brandy to the part injured. 

31st. After breakfast. Brother Schmitt and I walked 
up to the farm-house, and took a view of the premises. 
The poor farmer was so much alarmed at the expense of 
measurement and taxation, that he offered to dispose of 
his place at the low price of twelve hundred rix-dollars. 
It has many advantages, and water in abundance, 
brought by a^/o/e, or canal, from a considerable distance, 
and lying so high, that all the grounds may be irrigated 
with ease, and a mill supplied by it. The house was in 
ruins, and one miserable room contained the whole fami- 
ly. In the grounds stood a remarkably large, wide- 
spreading oak, bamboos of very stately growth, and a 
great number of orange, lemon, peach, and other fruit- 
trees, but all neglected, and going to decay. In former 
days, the place w^as kept in good order, avenues of trees 
and hedges still remaining. The lands, belonging to the 
farm, extend for a considerable way, both up and down 
the river, and appeared to us well adapted for the 
growth both of corn and grass. But there is an objec- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 183 

tion to this place for a missionary station, which, in our 
view, was an insuperable one. It lies on the high road; 
the inhabitant is continually annoyed by calls, and put to 
great expense by entertaining all travellers without ex- 
ception, and though African hospitality is by no means 
what some have described it to be, but the traveller is 
often turned out, and sometimes prefers to encamp upon 
the werft, or in the field, yet every one thinks himself at 
liberty to enter any house on the road, and sit down to 
talk. 

The time, before Mr. Akkerman's oxen arrived from 
the hills, was spent in various useful employments, till 
about ten o'clock, when we set off, keeping for many 
miles along the banks of the Kroram Revier, in a narrow 
vale, in which, now and then, we met with some pictu- 
resque scenery. We passed two farms, deserted, as we 
were informed, by the possessors, on account of their in- 
ability to pay for measurement and taxation. 

At three in the afternoon, we reached Essenbosch, and 
the weather having become unpleasant, with much wind, 
and threatening rain, we ordered the drivers to pass the 
farm-house, and descend into a woody glen, through 
which ran a clear brook, falling in small cascades down 
the rocky declivity, and altogether appearing a romantic 
retreat. The place first chosen for our tent being much 
exposed to the wind, we fi^und another, more sheltered, 
and, as the oxen had been some time unyoked, and were 
gone away, we performed, in their place, the service of 
drawing the wagons to it. 

Our tent was now pitched on a grassy spot, surround- 
ed with bushes, and defended by high trees against the 
wind, which had risen to a pretty heavy gale. It blew 
and rained all night, but having reached this snug shel- 
tering-place, before the rain began, we did not suffer 
much by it. 

After dinner, as Sister Schmitt was going to fetch 
something from the wagon, she was alarmed by the sight 
of an animal, in appearance as large as a mastiff, run- 
ning out of one thicket into another, the light of the fire 
showing his shape pretty distinctly. Though she was 
laughed at for her fears, we all felt some degree of 



184 VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 

alarm, and rekindled our two fires, for we were in a re- 
gion where wild beasts were said to abound, and where 
cover enough was to be found for them among the rocks 
and bushes. 

During the night, I awoke and heard distinctly an un- 
known noise, seemingly not far from the tent, resembling 
both the growl of an angry cat, and the low bleating of a 
calf. Perceiving Brother Schmitt to be awake, I asked 
sofdy, " Do you hear that T' " Ay," said he, " 1 have 
been listening to it for some time : no good comes out of 
that throat !" In the morning, the Hottentots, who had 
likewise heard it, pronounced it to have been the roar of 
a tyger, probably of the creature seen by Sister 
Schmitt. 

April 1st. To our great joy, all the clouds had fled, 
together with the wind, and the sun shone bright. We 
now first saw and were delighted with the snugness of 
our encampment, and the beautiful prospect towards the 
west. A very high peaked mountain, of a conical form, 
which we had yesterday noticed, though obscured by the 
rain, appeared now to great advantage, overtopping all 
the other hills. It looked like a huge volcano. Under 
it lay three ridges of subordinate hills, of various shapes, 
one rising above the other. The wood, with our tent, 
wagons, and fires, formed the fore-ground, and the whole 
w^as worthy of the pencil of a Nicholson. Both Mr. 
Melville and I endeavoured to obtain an exact sketch 
of this charming landscape. 

As to our departure, we remained some time in un- 
pleasant uncertainty. One spann had been ordered at 
Essenbosch, and the other from a Mr. Miller at Soekow, 
who was to fetch us from Jagersboch. We feared, 
therefore, that the latter might have passed by, during 
the night. 

Meanwhile Sister Schmitt reported, that on going to 
procure some milk from the farmer's wife, living on the 
hill eastward of our camp, she had found her to be a 
woman of uncommon size, occupying a huge arm chair, 
above a yard wide, out of which she was scarcely able 
to lift herself. She had expressed a wish to see the 
whole of our party, and certainly, though she herself 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 185 

would excite as much curiosity in England, as the famous 
Lambert, she had a right to consider us, as Englishmen, 
equally worthy of attention in Africa. Otherwise, being 
perfectly content with things of ordinary size and ap- 
pearance, I should not have gone a step out of my way 
to see a monster. But being so kindly invited, we went 
in a body to pay the lady a morning visit at her own 
house, if the hovel she inhabited may be dignified by that 
name. It consisted of an oblong square, enclosed in a 
wall of unburnt bricks, one half of which was covered 
with a roof of rushes. The entrance was througrh the 
uncovered part. In this vestibule three or four naked 
slave-children were crawling about; a woman, partially 
clothed in rags, with a child strapped to her breast, was 
cooking some victuals at a fire, and dirt, guts, old shoes, 
rags of sheep-skins, and other filth, occupied every part 
of the premises, out and inside. On entering the main 
apartment, the first thing that met the eye was the 
carcass of a sheep just killed, hanging from a cross-beam 
with a pool of blood on the clay floor, under the head ; 
five fox-coloured cats were sitting round, watching for 
their share of the spoil : a milk-pail, churn, and some 
other kitchen utensils to the right; and to the left, the 
lady herself, who kindly invited Sister Schmitt to come 
and sit down on a stool, between her and the pendant 
carcass. Her husband, a very civil old man, with a 
gray beard, and a large straw hat, sat at the table, and 
a bench was placed for us, between the carcass and the 
door. The lady herself entered freely into conversation, 
told us, that notwithstanding her enormous bulk, she 
was only forty-three years old, and good-humouredly ob- 
served, that Sister Schmitt looked now only like a little 
girl, passing several jokes on the difference between 
them. Her face still retained some vivacity and come- 
liness. Her body entirely filled the vast chair she sat 
in, on the arms of which her elbows rested. She in- 
tended soon to remove to another habitation onSeijeants 
Revier. When once hoisted into the wagon, she can no 
more quit it, till she arrives at the place of her destina- 
tion. From her wooden throne, she issued her com- 
mands to her slaves, Hottentots, and brutes, with the 

24 



186 JOURNAL OF A 

same shrill voice for which the African ladies are 
noted. Close to the dwelling, was the beast-kraal, 
and the surrounding premises exhibited a congeries of 
lumber, rags, ruin, and disorder, not to be described. 
Through all this chaos, ran a small stream of spring- 
water, clear as crystal, in vain offering its aid to cleanse 
the Augean stable. The lady, however, conscious of 
mortality, had already provided herself with a coffin 
of immense size, which, with her gigantic bed, is screen- 
ed off the apartment by a bulk-head of matting. 

The old gentleman walked with us to our encamp- 
ment, and not only gave good advice, but agreed with 
Mr. Akkerman, who had followed us, that he should 
put us forward with his oxen as far as Soekow, for 
%vhich we felt much obliged to him. The latter wish- 
ing to sell us a spann, Brother Schmitt entered into some 
negotiation with him, ending in a reference to a de- 
termination on our return. At half past nine, we left 
this romantic outspann-place, and passed through an 
uninteresting country, till, about one o'clock, we ar- 
rived at Miller's farm. We here procured sweet milk 
and good bread. Some dragoons seemed pleased to 
meet with their countrymen, and Mr. Akkerman, with 
the old farmer from Essenbosch, had preceded us on 
horseback. Relays being soon provided, w^e set out 
for the Veldcornet's, hoping to reach his place before 
dark. The road, however, was bad, and we got on 
but slowly. Several antelopes were seen, but their 
swiftness saved them, nor had we dogs used to the 
chase. On the road we met a Serjeant of dragoons 
with a private. The former had been at Groenekloof, 
and was acquainted with the missionaries, with whom 
he entered into conversation, and seemed quite in a 
kind of ecstacy, speaking of the religious disposition of 
all classes of people about Uitenhagen. He was sent 
to call off all the dragoons stationed on the road, as 
that mode of conveying despatches is rendered un- 
necessary, by the conclusion of the war with the re- 
bellious boors. 

When we arrived at the Veldcornet's, we found him 
very much out of humour. Mr. Melville, who first en- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, l87 

tered the house to announce us, met with a very ungra- 
cious reception, though we had sent Leonhard Paerl to 
him with the landdrost's order for relays. In his ab- 
sence, his wife had ordered them, but he pretended igno- 
rance, and rudely asked, '^ Who are you ? What is your 
business at Uitenhagen ?" with other questions equally 
impertinent. Mr. Melville replied, that we should in« 
form the landdrost of our business, when we reached the 
drosty, and meanwhile required him to furnish us with 
the means of proceeding. When the rest of us followed, 
he began to use language which soon convinced us, that 
we should be much happier in our tent, than under his 
roof We therefore took leave, pitched the tent on the 
werft, and kindled a fire. Sister Schmitt had previously 
mentioned to the lady, that we should be glad to purchase 
a sheep, but we now doubted, w^hether we should obtain 
one. Her husband, however, unknown to us, ordered 
two slaves to bring a sheep to the w^agons. They did 
so, cut its throat, and left it to bleed, without informing 
either us or our Hottentots, who accidentally found it 
weltering in its blood. This extraordinary conduct gave 
us no favourable opinion of the character of our ungra- 
cious host. 

2d. About four in the morning, I heard a noise in the 
tent, and thinking that Mr. Melville's dog. Rambler, who 
always slept there, was seeking something to eat among 
fhe plates, sat up and cai/ed to him, when a large black 
dog passed close by me, and ran out. He had devoured 
the candle, emptied the butter pot, containing about two 
pounds of butter, and would have made a better break- 
fast, had he not been disturbed. When I left the tent at 
daybreak, I saw the Veldcornet and another person 
standino"o« the werft. Mr. Melville accompanied me to 
him, to inquire, when we might hope to be forwarded on 
our jo-^i^ney. To our surprise, we found him disposed to 
be »nore civil, and he informed us, that we might expect 
oxen by eight o'clock. As he seemed open to remon- 
strance, we inquired the cause of his marked rough treat- 
ment of us yesterday evening. He made an apology, by 
explaining, how he was continually harassed by orders 
for Vorspann, caring for the transport of the military 



188 JOURNAL OF A 

and their baggage, and put to the inconvenience of send- 
ing his men up and down the country, instead of doing 
work in his own farm, by which he sustained more inju- 
ry, than any exemption from taxation could possibly re- 
pair, and was prevented from erecting necessary build- 
ings, and putting his place into better order. He appeal- 
ed to a dragoon, who stood by, and added, that his pa- 
tience and temper were so much tried, and himself 
fatigued by continual calls, and riding about to secure the 
oxen ordered, that it was no wonder, that he could not 
contain himself. His apology w^as gladly admitted, Mr. 
Melville only observing, that his complaints might have 
been made in a more gentlemanly w^ay, and without 
using insulting language. Our quarrel was then made 
up, and he entered into friendly conversation with Bro- 
ther Schmitt. His wife, whom we had found to be a 
very civil and obliging woman, seemed quite to revive, on 
seeing the reconciliation take place, having been truly 
distressed by her husband's strange conduct yesterday. 

The Veldcornet expressed his "admiration of the ap- 
pearance and behaviour of our Hottentots, exhibiting, 
as he said, such a contrast to that of the miserable and 
neglected race of Hottentots, living among the boors. 
Nothing was more enco\3raging and satisfactory to us, 
than such remarks, nor is there a more convincing proof 
of the benefit conferred upon this nation, by the intro- 
duction of Christianity. It shows the necessity of ob- 
taining more opportunities for planting missions among 
them, in which Christian instruction and civilization 2:0 
hand in hand. 

In this part of the country, more than ^bout Gnaden- 
thal and Groenekloof, one may behold the state of de- 
gradation, into which the Hottentot nation ha^sunk, the 
blame and shame of which lie heavy with som^ of the 
former possessors of this land, who, first having r^^bbed 
the aborigines of their paternal inheritance, took ad- 
vantage of their tame and defenceless state, to thrust 
them down into the most abject servitude. In this, they 
are, by some, far worse treated than purchased slaves, 
who are spared, because if lamed or destroyed by ex- 
cessive labour or cruel treatment, they cannot be re- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 189 

placed, but at an enormous expense. But there are yet 
superior considerations, which make us desire the pro- 
pagation of Christianity among the heathen. They are 
summed up in that earnest prayer of every true believer, 
^' that Christ may see of the travail of His soul and be 
satisfied."" Though the conversion of the Aear/^ of those, 
to whom his servants preached the gospel, is their prin- 
cipal aim, yet it is most gratifying to perceive, that even 
men of no religion acknowledge the effects of the gos- 
pel in the mind and manners of those, who have received 
it in faith. 

From this place, we saw, for the first time, in the north- 
east horizon, the Winterhoeks mountains^ which present 
themselves with many peaks. 



CHAPTER XI. 

Large aloes. Soefe Kloof, Character of the country about 
the Chamtoos Revier. JVarrow ^lens. Remarkable ca- 
verns. Chamtoos Revier. Klein Revier. Descent into the 
vale of the Louri Revier. Wild beasts heard in the woods. 
Old FaerVs account of Gnadenthal, Desire of the Hotten- 
tots to hear the gospel. The Galgenbosch. Hospitable re- 
ception at Klaarefonteyn and Kaffre KraaL Van Staade\^ 
Revier. Thickets about the Zwartzkop Revier. Arrival 
at Uitenhagen. 

We could not set off till half past eleven, when we saw 
a country before us, apparently level, but full of dells 
and gullies. The great variety of bushes and flowering- 
shrubs on all sides, attracted our attention. Large aloes 
are interspersed among the bushes, and, with their broad 
leaves, form a striking contrast to the many small-leaved 
evergreens which surround them. Some of them 
were in full bloom, towering above the thicket, and one. 
more perfect than the rest, was brought into the wagon. 
The flower consisted of seven branches, one in the centre, 
and six surrounding it at regular distances. The centre 
branch was a foot and a half long, the rest about thirteen 
inches, all thickly covered with a succession of long, bell. 



190 JOURNAL OF A 

shaped flowers, each orange-coloured at the stem^ and 
passing into bright vermilion towards the top. The 
brilliant appearance of this huge flower, or mass of 
flowers, disposed like a chandelier, and mounted on a 
stem six feet in height, with a capital of massive leaves 
spreading above three feet in diameter, is beyond con* 
ception grand. The bountiful Creator has been pleased 
to clothe this country, unproductive as it generally is in 
means of subsistence for man and beast, with an astonish- 
ing profusion of vegetable beauty. Hardly a spot exists, 
upon which some curious and beautiful plant does not 
rear its head in its proper season ; and in the midst of 
this brown desert, we see the magnificent chandelier, or 
red star-flower, measuring from four or five inches, to a 
foot and a half, in the spread of its rays, growing luxuri- 
antly among stones and sand. 

Unexpectedly, we found ourselves on the brow of a 
descent into a charming vale, called the Soute Kloof. 
We dismounted and walked into it. The whole coun- 
try assumed a different character, as we approached the 
Chamtoos Revier. The descent into the Soute Kloof 
promised fair for a change in mineralogical appearan- 
ces, for it was covered with fragments of a bluish quartz, 
with mica, and a disposition in the fissures of the quartz 
to crystallization. A soft schistus broke forth in several 
places, but towards the bottom all these favourable 
symptoms vanished, and the old combinations of sand- 
stone coloured by iron, with opaque veins of quartz, dis- 
appointed my wishes. Our attention, however, was suf- 
ficiently engrossed by the ever-changing scenery of this 
lovely spot. The elegant, but troublesome mimosa, oc- 
cupies the greatest part of the wood, so as to render it in 
some parts impervious. 

In passing over a gentle eminence, we were struck 
by the view of a remarkable cavern to the right, and left 
the wagons, that we might go and examine it. It con- 
sisted of a natural arch of about twenty feet span, the 
rock composed entirely of smaller or larger pebbles, ce- 
mented together by a ferruginous clay, so as to consti- 
tute a coarse pudding-stone. The whole appearance of 
the cavern was, in miniature, not unlike the rocks of 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 191 

Cushendun in the north of Ireland, which I visited in 
1808. Mr. Melville, Schmitt, and Stein, climbed up the 
steep ascent into the cave, while I stood below, endea- 
vouring to make a sketch of it. Deeply en^a^ed with 
iny work, and seeing Mr. Melville and Stein return to 
the wagon, I thought the whole party had left the ca- 
vern. Unexpectedly, I heard something stirring within, 
and stopped to listen. All was still, and I went on draw- 
ing, though somewhat alarmed. By and by, the noise 
mcreased, and fancying, that by our invasion of the den 
we might have roused some wild animal, which are said 
to be numerous in these solitary woods, I started from 
my station, and was just going to run off, when I saw 
iirother fechmitt's arm reaching out of the mouth of the 
cavern, endeavouring to dislodge a fragment of the rock, 
to obtam a specimen. As I knew him to be perfectly 
tame, I ascended, and proceeded to examine it more mi- 
nutely, but hardly ever remember to have been more 
truly and tremblingly thrown into needless fear. 

Leavmg the narrow glens about the Soete Kloof, we 
crossed a level piece of ground, loosely covered with 
thorn-bushes, and arrived at a farm near the Wagedrift, 
on the Chamtoos Revier, where we halted to make some 
inquiry, as to the places mentioned in Colonel Bird's list, 
and found them all occupied, or in requisition. The far- 
noier from the Chamtoos drift, on Klein Revier, was at 
the house, and took a lift in our wagon across the ford. 
The Chamtoos is a considerable river. Its stream is 
clear and sweet, and we regaled ourselves with a good 
draught of these waters, which we had been so long seek- 
ing, but cannot make our own. All accounts agree, that 
every habitable spot on this river is occupied, and the poor 
Hottentots have even been deprived of their right to a 
place on Kleira Revier, which a former Governor had re- 
served for them. The captain having been decoved 
away under some pretext or other, and no more heard 
of, for want of an heir to succeed him, the right to dis- 
pose of the land fell into the hands of Government. The 
English Governors intended to restore it to the Hotten- 
tots, and It had been mentioned to me as a place suitable 
lor a Mission; but being already in possession of a far- 



192 JOURNAL OF A 

nier, though without a grant from Government^ I and my 
Brethren agreed, that here also, in fixing upon a spot 
for a settlement, we would not, by any means, thwart 
the views, or oppose the pretensions, however slight, of 
any individual. We therefore resolved to proceed to 
Uitenhagen, and consult the landdrost, to whom I had 
been favoured with a letter from the Governor. 

On leaving the Chamtoos Revier, we passed through 
a thicket of mimosa, on level ground, till we arrived at 
the Klein Revier, when the farmer left us. Mr. Melville 
went with him across the river, in a canoe, half full of 
water, and returned with a bottle of sweet milk. Mean- 
while I took the portrait of one of our oxen, whose horns 
spread to a greater extent than any I had seen, the 
points being nearly six feet asunder. The brute stood 
patiently for his picture, but on attempting to measure 
his horns, he offered to use them in a way, that kept even 
his driver at a respectful distance. 

We now entered a country similar to that in the Soete 
Kloof. The road winds through a low wood, and is ex- 
tremely rugged, and full of holes. Many curious caverns 
appear in the hills on both sides. From the kloofs, we 
ascended a barren hill, consisting of masses of iron-stone, 
the surface of some appearing as if they had been in the 
fire. They lay upon white clay, in some places powder- 
ed, and mixed with sand. At sunset, we intended to en- 
camp for the night, but as the Hottentots assured us, that 
it was only an hour's drive to a much better out-spann 
place on the Louri Revier, we continued our journey 
over the edge of a barren hill. Descending into the 
Louri Revier vale, we all left the wagons, as it was with 
great difficulty, and even hazard, that they were brought 
down in safety, the road winding through a dark wood, 
full of holes and dangerous slopes. It was a fine star- 
light night. All nature seemed hushed in peace, except 
that now and then the croak of some nocturnal bird, or 
some unusual sound at a distance, or on the nearer hill, 
attracted our attention. Knowing that these woods are 
haunted by tygers, wolves, and buffaloes, we frequently 
fancied those sounds to proceed from some greedy throats, 
in search of prey, and they occasioned just enough of 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRI€At 193 

alarm, to add some speed to our progress, and make us 
glad to hear the barking of dogs at the distant farm. 
There we had intended to spend the night, but when the 
wagons with Brother Schmitt overtook us at the ford, we 
resolved, after crossing the river, to encamp on the oppo- 
site bank, to shorten our journey ; for, if we had proceed- 
ed to the farm, we must have returned to the ford. Mr. 
Melville rode to the house, where he left his horse in 
charge of two dragoons. On his return, he gave us but 
faint hopes of our being provided with the means of pro- 
ceeding in the morning, Vorspann had been ordered 
here by the Veldcornet, but the farmer, Mr. Van Roy, 
being absent with two spanns, his lady thought herself 
under no obligation to provide oxen for us. Mr. Melville, 
however, prevailed upon her to promise to let us have 
one spannin the morning, for a six hours' skofF, or half a 
day's journey. The second spann had been ordered by 
the Veldcornet to meet us at the Chamtoos Reviei\ and 
of course would miss us. Wolves were heard howhng in 
the woods on the opposite bank. 

3d. During the night. Sister Schmitt was alarmed by 
distinctly hearing tygers growling in the woods, on the 
hill nearest to our encampment. She got up quietly, 
Rambler following her, and went to the Hottentots, who 
were lying about the fire. By their report, she found 
that she was not mistaken. But not willing to alarm us, 
though I saw her return, and spoke to her, she did not 
mention it, till we rose in the morning. No traveller, 
however, need be afraid of the tyger of this country en- 
tering a tent. Unless attacked, or conceiving himself to 
be in danger, he cautiously avoids meddling with man. 
Whenever met with in an open field, if he has opportuni- 
ty to escape, he makes off slowly and crouching, like a 
cat, but if prevented from escaping, is most furious and 
determined in self-defence. The woods about the Cham- 
toos and Louri Reviers are said to abound with them, 
and the very appearance of the country suggests the 
idea of its being a haunt of wild beasts. The hills, 
which are not high, are full of singular caverns and bro- 
ken rocks, and the number of glens, intersecting each 
other in all directions, afford the best cover for all kinds 

25 



194 JOURNAL OF A 

o{ ravenous animals. Cattle are not considered safe, 
feeding in the woods or fields, and hardly in their kraals 
or pens. 

Brother Schmitt, on mounting the hill near us, was 
delighted with this charming valley. His Avife, mean- 
while, visited the farmer's wife, Mrs. Van Roy. Thither 
we soon followed her. She was full of the usual com- 
plaints against the measures of Government, and seemed 
a woman of spirit. 

After breakfast, we held a council, in which it was de- 
termined that Mr. Melville, Stein, and myself, should 
proceed in the travelling-wagon with Mr. Van Roy's 
spann, to a farm, called Klaarefonteyn, and there hire 
oxen to fetch the baggage-wagon and the rest of our 
party from hence, and both proceed towards Uitenhagen 
with relays, ordered, as before, by the landdrost's letter 
of command; for we gave up all expectation of seeing 
the spann sent, by mistake, to theChamtoos Revier. 

Meanwhile, Brother Stein had visited the Hottentots 
and slaves belonging to Mr. Van Roy's farm, in their 
bondhoeks, or huts, and had much useful conversation with 
them. They had heard that we were in search of a 
place to build a settlement, and the Hottentots declared 
that they would all come and live in it, that they might 
hear the word of God; and, had they known last night, 
that we were teachers from Gnadenthal, they would have 
come to our camp, and begged to be instructed. They 
had obtained some information of the aim of our journey 
from Leonhard Paerl, who, as our precursor, officiously 
announced our errand. He had sat up with them the 
whole of the night preceding our arrival, describing 
Gnadenthal, its regulations, its schools, the instructions 
given to the Hottentots in the Christian religion, the culti- 
vation of the grounds and gai dens, &c. ; interspersing his 
account with observations on the necessity of conversion, 
the happiness enjoyed by those who believed in Jesus 
Christ as their Saviour, and their hopes of eternal life, 
after the death of the body. 

This simple narrative had so much engaged the at- 
tention of these poor people, that they expressed the 
greatest eagerness soon to have the same benefit be- 
stowed upon them, in this country. Though old Leon- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 135 

hard's officiousness, in thus informing the farmers and 
others, what we were in search of, in some instances, 
raised needless uneasiness in prejudiced minds, yet we 
forgave it, in consideration of his frequently adding ob- 
servations, which may have been blessed by God in the 
hearts of those that heard his artless speeches. Before 
we set out, a party of women and children came down 
to the river to see us. The children were all stark 
naked. 

Marcus and Johannes attended the travelling-wagon* 
Our leader was a Hottentot from the farm. As we 
travelled along, we were greatly delighted with the 
variety and beauty of the prospects that opened to our 
view. A dragoon had told us, that we should soon come 
into a country, looking like England, and we found his 
prediction verified. The so-called Galgenbosch, has 
very much the appearance of an extensive range of 
parks. We seemed to be passing from one park to 
another. The elegant mimosa is distributed upon the 
hills, in copses, or stands singly. Here and there a 
thicket fills a dell, or a wood of larger trees a wider 
glen. Clumps of high trees ornament the sides of the 
hills. Distant mountains of singular outline, with a 
nearer range of lower hills, ending towards the sea, with 
one of a conical form, present a most interesting horizon 
to the east, and the woody, wavy country between them 
and the road, affords infinite gratification to the eye of 
the traveller. But the habitations of man are very 
thinly scattered over an immense tract of country. 

At two, we reached Klaarefonteyn, the farm of a Mr. 
Neukirch, of German origin, where we were most kind- 
ly received, and hospitably treated. Thick milk, bread 
of excellent quality, and a fried sausage were set before 
us. The old farm-house was burnt by the CafTres during 
the late invasion, and its ruins exhibited a proof of their 
savage mode of warfare. Mr. Neukirch was imme- 
diately ready to furnish oxen, to bring us to his brother's 
house, on Van Staades Revier, and, meanwhile, to send 
another spann, which should fetch the baggage-wagon 
from Louri Revier, and join us in the morning. After 
about an hour's rest, we left this hospitable dwelling, 



196 JOURNAL OF A 

and proceeded through thick woods, which opened here 
and there, affording a peep towards the mountains to the 
left, or the coasts of the Indian ocean to the right of the 
road. Before w^e descended into the valley, we met two 
wagons belonging to Bethelsdorp, full of Hottentots, but 
did not stop to converse with them, for which, probably, 
neither party could spare the time. 

The descent towards the river is steep and rocky, and 
though lately much mended, very rough, almost resem- 
bhng some of the roads in Plettenberg bay. Mr. Mel- 
ville made a beautiful sketch of the view from the brow 
of the hill, towards the mountains. I walked alone 
down the road through the wood, examining the stones. 
On the summit of the hill, I found a white, gritty kind of 
limestone, but towards the bottom, nothing but a soft 
schistus, with quartz, and coarse sand-stone, too soft ever 
to make good roads. For about a mile, it leads through 
a wood of lofty trees, some falling through age, others 
pressed down by an immense quantity of bush-rope, or 
Bavianstau, some disfigured by mosses, or covered with 
w i!d vines and a variety of creepers, while others tower 
aloft, unentangled, in perfect health and beauty. An al- 
most impenetrable thicket forms the underwood. The 
river flows in a deep, shady bottom, and the farm-house, 
called Kaffj-e Kraal, built of red brick, presents itself 
pleasantly on the opposite eminence overlooking a deep 
glen, enclosed by steep, woody hills. The premises are 
the cleanest I have yet seen in this country. We were 
w^ell received by Mrs. Neukirch, one coming in after the 
other, and followed by the farmer himself, who had 
overtaken Mr. Melville, and heard from him our story 
and our w^ants. The evening was very agreeably spent 
with him and his friendly wife, and we were lodged in a 
room adjoining the dwelling, purposely built for the ac- 
commodation of travellers. 

1th. We breakfasted with the family, and Mr. Neu- 
kirch's conversation proved him to be an intelligent, 
friendly, and honourable man. During the forenoon, 
w^aiting for our companions, Mr. Melville and I were en- 
gaged in writing and drawing, and Brother Stein in visit- 
ing the Hottentots and slaves. In one of the huts, he 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 197 

found several people assembled about a sick person, to 
whom he spoke of the love of God our Saviour towards 
the whole human race^ and explained to the poor patient 
the way of salvation, when a woman, sitting in a corner, 
began to utter loud groans. As she would not yield to 
remonstrance, he was obliged to leave the hut. The 
people seemed to wish for instruction. 

At twelve o'clock. Brother Schmitt and his wife arriv- 
ed with the baggage-wagon. We had much regretted 
their absence, during the course of our delightful ride 
through the Galgenbosch yesterday. The Hottentots 
and slaves on Louri Revier, had come to their tent, but 
not before they were gone to bed. Our Hottentots 
would not disturb their rest, which they regretted, being 
ever ready, by day or night, to do the work for which 
they are appointed. At six in the morning, they set out 
for this place. 

Our friendly hostess prepared an early dinner for us, 
and we left this hospitable house with sentiments of much 
gratitude to its inhabitants, for the kind reception and en- 
tertainment we had experienced. After crossing Van 
Staades Revier, a clear and rapid stream, we kept for 
some time along the glen, with a high woody bank on 
the left side of the river. Several secretary-birds made 
their appearance. They almost seem to know, that they 
are protected by man, on account of their services, in 
destroying serpents and other noxious animals ; they 
therefore take no pains to escape. 

On gaining the heights, we met our host's son, armed, 
who, with some other young men, were escorting a wa- 
gon, containing four of the rebellious boors, condemned 
to imprisonment and banishment for a certain term of 
years. 

As we doubled the conical hill to the left, being the 
last of the ridge of hills above described, we noticed, on 
its declivity, some huge fragments of rock, and many of 
smaller dimensions, lower down, apparently thrown from 
the upper region by a convulsion of nature, or by some 
milder process. For several miles, the road passes over 
a dreary waste, after which we entered into a dense 
thicket, consisting of a vast variety of bushes, intermixed 



19^ JOURNAL OF A 

with aloes, Indian figs of different species, and many 
shrubs and flowers unknown to us. This thicket covers 
a great extent of country, and the whole of the hills de- 
scending into the vale of the Zwartzkops Revier. 

Uitenhagen presents itself pleasantly, with its few 
white houses, and the mansion of the landdrost, at the 
foot of a range of low hills. A plain extends to the 
southward. Having crossed the Zwartzkops Revier, we 
reached the village about six o'clock, and pitched our 
tent on the common, near the beast-kraal and market. 
Mr. Melville, who went immediately to the post-office, 
and in search of friends, was every where unsuccessful. 
We regretted with him the absence of Mr. Swann, the 
surveyor, from whom we hoped to have received much 
information respecting the unoccupied parts of this 
district. 



CHAPTER XIL 

Transactions at Uitenhagen. Proposals made by the land- 
drost to extend our journey. Visit to Bethelsdorp. Re- 
marks on the situation of that settlement. Hospitality of 
Mr. Von Buchenrode. Departure from Uitenhagen. 
Geelhoutboom on Sundays Revier. Elephants and 
buffaloes. Arrival at the Witte Revier. Description 
of the valley^ and of the Schlagboom farm. 

Apihl 5th. Our groom, Leonhard, having arrived two 
days ago, had called at the drosty, to exhibit our creden- 
tials to the landdrost. Colonel Cuyler. After breakfast, 
I waited upon the Colonel, and delivered to him Colonel 
Bird's letter, with another from the landdrost of George, 
Mr. Van Kervel. He received me with great civility, 
and offered me a room in his house, apologizing for 
his not being able to accommodate our whole party, 
as his rooms were occupied by offices of Government, 
the new building destined for that purpose being not 
yet finished. As I did not wish, on any account, to 
be separated from my companions, I could not accept 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 199 

his kind invitation. Speaking of the aim of our jour- 
nej, he offered every assistance in his power, and 
seemed to wish to see a settlement of the Brethren 
formed in his district. For this purpose he mentioned 
Klein Revier, near the Chamtoos Revier, as being a 
very suitable situation, with every requisite for a vil- 
lage of about five hundred inhabitants, which we might 
claim, the present tenant not having obtained any grant 
of the land. He likewise described another place in 
Achter Bruntjes Hoogte, as suitable, the lease of which 
was about to be called in by Government, as the 
possessor had been concerned in the late rebellion, 
and sentenced to be removed from that part of the 
frontier. One of his sons had been executed, and ano- 
ther banished, having been convicted of treason. The 
landdrost added, that there was sufficient land unoc- 
cupied on the Zondags Revier, (Sundays River,) and 
wished that we might visit that country. 

On my return to the tent, we held some consultation 
about the proposals made by the landdrost, but could 
come to no determination. To an application for the 
possession of the Klein Revier farm, the same objec- 
tions prevailed which I have before stated; and we 
felt uncomfortable in the idea of occupying a place, of 
which an old tenant and his family had been deprived, 
though as a just punishment for their misdeeds. Colonel 
Cuyler followed me to our encampment, to invite the 
whole party to dinner. 

During the forenoon, we w^ere visited by several Hot- 
tentots belonging to Gnadenthal, at present serving in 
the Cape regiment, and by others, who sought to make 
acquaintance with our people. The keeper of the tronk 
(prison) and his wife very civilly offered their services 
to do any thing for us; and the Secretary, Mr. Allen, a 
friend of Mr. Melville's, with great kindness, appro- 
priated a room in his house for our accommodation, in 
case a change of weather should make us wish to leave 
the tent. We accepted of his invitation, and removed 
our bedding into the house. 

The afternoon was most agreeably spent with the 
landdrost and his lady at the drosty. After dinner, we 



200 JOURNAL OF A 

visited a young lion chained in the yard, larger than a 
mastiff, perfectly tame, of the large black breed, that is, 
having a black mane, and black bush at the end of his 
tail, but otherwise of a dingy brown, or tawny-colour. 
Like others of the feline tribe, he seemed fond of being 
stroked and petted, and, like a house-cat, shoved up 
against the person fondling him. Yet it appeared pru- 
dent to keep one's hand at a respectful distance from his 
-wide mouth. He continually uttered a kind of friendly 
growl, the double base to a cat's purring. A silver-gray 
monkey also, of singular beauty, full of tricks, but of 
what species I cannot tell, diverted us for some time. 
He had been a great favourite in the family, till, interfe- 
ring too much with the children's comforts, stealing their 
victuals, and doing other mischief, he was now sentenced 
to exhibit his pranks in the yard, on a pole with a bar 
across, where he yet retained his friendly disposition. 
Both the lion and monkey had been inhabitants of the 
neighbouring hills. 

The landdrost entered with much interest into the bu- 
siness we were engaged in, and showed himself well-dis- 
posed towards the civilization of the Hottentots. His 
lady had visited Gnadenthal. 

Being so near Bethelsdorp, the principal establishment 
of the Missionary Society in London, he offered to fur- 
nish us with a relay of oxen to our travelling wagon, 
that we might visit that place. 

6th. About eight o'clock in the morning, we set out, 
taking Marcus, Johannes, and Lebrecht Aris, with us. 
The road is not interesting, but after crossing the 
Zvvartzkops Revier, about an English mile from Uitenha- 
gen, runs over a wild, level country, till within sight of 
the village. 

We were received with great kindness by the mission- 
aries, Messrs. Messer and Hooper. The former is by 
birth a German, and the latter an Englishman. Mr. 
Read, the principal, or director of all the missionary es- 
tablishments of the above-mentioned Society in Africa, 
was absent, having accompanied Mr. Williams into Caf- 
fraria, where, it was said, king T'Geika had applied far 
a settlement, or a " school," as the institutions of that 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 201 

Society are here called. We cordially wish success to 
every attempt to make the gospel known among the hea- 
then, and hope, that their exertions will be attended with 
permanent benefit to that wild and ignorant nation. 

After being introduced to Mrs. Messer and Mrs. Wil- 
liams, who seemed pleased to make acquaintance with 
Sister Schmitt, we walked out to see the settlement. 
Mrs. Read is a Hottentot woman, and did not join the 
party, but was visited by Sister Schmitt at her own 
house. Mr. Melville was so deeply engaged with read- 
ing the account of Bethelsdorp in the Rev. Mr. Camp- 
bell's journal, that he did not accompany us in our waik^ 
especially as he had no inclination to take a view of a 
place so totally destitute of any thing picturesque. 

We had been willing to believe, that the very unfa- 
vourable accounts, given by travellers, of Bethelsdorp, 
were greatly exaggerated, if not altogether false, and 
that it was not to be credited, that a Society, possessed 
of such ample means, would suffer any of their settle- 
ments to remain in so disgraceful a state, as to be always 
brought forward against them, as a proof of the unprofit- 
ableness of their missionary exertions in this country. 
But I am sorry to say, that as to its external situation, 
nothing can be more miserable and discouraging. Men, 
therefore, who judge only from outward appearance, are 
apt to draw inferences to the prejudice of its inhabitants. 
This is acknowledged by Mr. Campbell himself, and he 
offers an apology, which such as view the subject with a 
favourable disposition towards the main purpose of the 
institution will admit. What may have been the motive 
of its founder. Dr. Van der Kemp, for fixing upon a spot^ 
in every respect so little calculated to raise any thing 
but disagreeable sensations in a traveller's mind, I can- 
not tell. The district of Uitenhagen was at that time 
but very thinly occupied by settlers. Government most 
generously offered every facility, and gave him his choice 
of the best places in its territory. He looked at some, 
and at length sat down in the most barren, desolate, un- 
promising desert I have yet seen in all South Africa. 

He was an eccentric character, but a man of cool 
judgment, and, I make no doubt, had he been alive, 

^6 



202 JOURNAL OF A 

would have given plausible reasons for his choice; 
though they might not have satisfied a man, who, while 
he loves and admires, above all, the Creator, cannot be 
totally indifferent to the beauty of his works, but seeks 
thankfully to enjoy those advantages and conveniences, 
with which God has so abundantly stored his creation. 
Yet they would have exhibited to the mind of a candid 
inquirer the truly sincere and religious motives, by which 
this venerable man was actuated on all occasions. 

His successors, however, are to be pitied, as being 
now obliged, not only to dwell in a situation incorrigibly 
bad, but continually to hear the severe and unjust re- 
marks, made in consequence of its wretched appear- 
ance. Not a tree is to be seen, excepting two or three 
ragged speckbooms, standing before Mr. Read's house^ 
and scarcely a blade of grass. The hills, enclosing the 
small kloof near the village, are completely barren, and 
their outlines tame and uninteresting. The small brook, 
if it deserves that name, coming out of the kloof, is quite 
insufficient for the purposes of irrigation, or to supply 
water for a mill; nor could we comprehend, how so 
large a fraternity as are said to dwell here, obtain water 
enough for common use. This being a time, when most 
of the inhabitants are with the boors, we saw very few 
of them, nor did they appear disposed to notice us. The 
arrival of our wagon seemed to excite no curiosity 
whatever. In this respect, we perceived a great dif- 
ference between the inhabitants of Bethelsdorp, and 
those of Gnadenthal, upon which our Hottentots made 
some sensible remarks. Towards evening, a few old 
men approached the wagon, in the shade of which our 
people were rosling, and entered into conversation with 
them, but from ?/5they seemed to stand aloof. 

We were, however, received and treated with the 
more kindness, and with truly brotherly affection, by the 
missionaries, and though it happened to be a busy day 
with them, several affairs of house-keeping, such as bac- 
king, brewing, &:c. having been undertaken, and our un- 
expected visit therefore seemed out of season, yet they 
exerted themselves to make it agreeable. Mrs. Messer 
provided a good dinner, and her husband devoted him- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 203 

self to us, as much as the necessary operations, already 
commenced, would allow. Meanwhile I made a few 
sketches of the interior of the settlement, chiefly of the 
church and Dr. Van der Kemp's dwelling. Both these 
buildings are singular monuments of the peculiarity of 
his taste. The church is an angular structure, or rather 
consists of two buildings, placed together nearly in a 
right angle. The inner walls meet; the outer are con- 
nected by a wall, elhptical in its form. In the middle 
of this junction, the minister's seat and desk are placed ; 
thus he may be seen and heard by the whole audience, 
though the men and women, who sit separate, cannot see 
each other. The building is low, with small square 
windows, thatched, and without a ceiling. A small room 
or closet is boarded off on the men's side, containing 
what is called the library. The books are chiefly for 
the use of the school, besides some religious publications. 
A few minerals and stones, brought from Latakoun, the 
Namaqua country, and other stations, constitute the mu- 
seum ; but they were much injured, no one seeming to 
pay attention to mineralogy. Dr. Van der Kemp's house 
IS about eight feet square, made of unburnt brick, and 
covered with thatch. It stands near the church, and is 
now in possession of the mother of the Hottentot woman 
whom he married, some time before he died. 

Having finished my sketches, Mr. Messer accompanied 
Brother Schmitt and me through the village. Complaints 
having been made, that the huts and cottages lay scat- 
tered, without any regularity, we saw a beginning of 
forming regular streets with houses of unburnt brick, 
which, when completed, will be a great improvement. 
A new school-house, with a printing-office annexed, is in 
forwardness, and will add much to the value of the es« 
tablishment. After dinner. Brother Schmitt walked 
with me into the kloof, where Mr. Messer, with great la- 
bour, has made a garden, which produces a good crop. 
The other gardens do not look well, for want of trees 
and hedges. The mill was quite out of repair and use- 
less; nor is the mill-course well contrived, so as to ob- 
tain the full force of the scanty supply of water. On re- 
Uirning from the kloof, we entered a smith's and a car- 



\*™ 



204 JOURNAL OF A 

penter's shop, but found, that they had not been used fo 
some time. Meanwhile Sister Schmitt procured som 
matting, our stock being much worn. Both she an 
Brother Stein had entered several houses, with a viei 
to visit and converse with the inhabitants, but it did not 
seem as if their visit gave much satisfaction. The peo- 
ple appeared timid and reserved, and we understood, 
that Dr. Van der Kemp's caution against making too (ree 
with strangers had created in their minds a disposition to 
reserve, which they did not at all understand when to 
lay aside. 

From the more elevated part of the settlement, Algoa 
Bay is visible. We would gladly have accepted of Mr. 
and Mrs. Messer's kind invitation to stay over night at 
Bethelsdorp, but we began to be covetous of our time, 
nor had we yet come to a determination respecting the 
landdrost's proposal for a continuation of our journey 
towards Achter Bruntjes Hoogte, in search of unoccu- 
pied land. We had therefore ordered our w^agon to be 
ready at seven o'clock, but heard that the oxen had 
strayed and could not be found. Mr, Messer therefore 
hired a spann for us, when, unexpectedly, Lebrecht Aris 
brought back our own. It was dark, but fair, and Mar- 
cus, by good driving, brought us to Uitenhagen, in three 
hours and a half. 

7th. After breakfast, going to the drosty, I met Colo- 
nel Cuyler coming towards our tent. He turned back 
with me, observing, that he had something to commu- 
nicate, which he thought would be worthy of our atten- 
tion. We had been conversing much at breakfast about 
his proposal to visit some situations on the Zondag's or 
Sunday's river, and had nearly resolved to proceed no 
farther in our search. But now the landdrost informed 
me, that he had been made attentive to a situation on 
the Witte Revier (or White River) flowing from the 
eastward into the Sunday's river, which possessed abun- 
dance of good grass, wood, and water, was yet unoccu- 
pied, and might be applied for, without in the least in- 
terfering with any other person. He therefore advised 
us, by all means, to go and see it, and as Mr. Knobel, the 
district surveyor, just then entered the room, the land- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 205 

drost desired him to give me a particular account of it, 
and directions how best to proceed. He also generously 
offered every assistance in horses and oxen, to convey us 
thither. 

On my return to the tent, I made a report of this new 
proposal, and all agreed, that, as to the situation on the 
Witte Revier, we should not do right in declining so kind 
an offer ; but we yet retained our scruples, as to the 
propriety of applying for the estate of a man, banished 
for treason, whose relatives would surely not be satisfied 
to see a place so long in possession of the family, trans- 
ferred to other hands. 

To-day, being Palm-sunday, we had a public meeting 
in our tent. We read the lesson for the day, after which 
Brother Schmitt delivered a short discourse and prayer. 
Many Hottentots attended, sitting in and about the tent, 
with great devotion. After service, I accompanied Sister 
Schmitt to the tronk, to see a young Catlre, who had 
been taken in the act of stealing cattle, some days jour- 
ney from hence. His person was athletic, his counte- 
nance open and pleasant, and as a token of special favour, 
he presented Sister Schmitt with a shell, taken from his 
necklace. He could only converse with us by signs. 

I next waited on the landdrost, to inform him of our 
resolution to accept his offer, as it respected the Witte 
Revier, but stated our objections to going to Bruntjes 
Hoogte. He brought forward so many reasons, why we 
should at least go and look at the latter place, that on a 
second consideration, we determined not to leave any 
thing relative to the business committed to us unfinished, 
which might, perhaps providentially, become a means of 
contributing to promote the aim of our journey into this 
distant part of the colony. On acquainting the land- 
drost with this result, he expressed much satisfaction, 
and furnished me with the necessary papers. 1. An 
order for relays. 2. A letter to Dr. Mackrell, agent for 
Government at Somerset, on the Boschberg in Bruntjes 
Hoogte. 3. A plan of our route. 4. A list of places, 
where we might find good quarters, with the names of 
the farmers. 5. An order to Messrs. Scheepers, sen. 
and jun. occupying farms at each end of the Witte 



206 JOURNAL OF A 

Revier Valley, to show us their land-marks, and the un- 
occupied ground on that river. 

The weather had totally changed, and it rained hard 
all the afternoon. We drank tea with Mr. Von Buchen- 
rode, a German gentleman, residing here as a merchant. 
He willingly rendered us every service in his power, and 
indeed it was well that we found such a generous friend 
at Uitenhagen, where, as yet, little is to be had, either 
for love or money. We had depended upon being able, 
at this principal town of the district, to furnish ourselves 
with a sufficient supply of wheaten bread and other pro- 
visions ; as also to replace our stock of crockery, the 
greatest part of which had been broken, either by the 
oversetting of the baggage-wagon, or by other means. 
Mr. Knobel, the surveyor, joined us, and we spent the 
afternoon in pleasant conversation. Mr. Von feuchen- 
rode gave us some interesting account of the country we 
were about to visit, and the wild animals infesting it. 

Sister Schmitt going to the tronk, was introduced to 
the prisoner G. B. confined for six months, according to 
the sentence pronounced against some, who had joined 
in the late rebellion. The poor man appeared much 
humbled, and expressed a hope, that, by God's mercy, 
this affliction might lead him to consider the concerns of 
his immortal soul, and seek true rest and salvation in 
Jesus. He now read the Bible with attention, and a 
sincere desire to profit by it. The keeper of the tronk, 
and several of the military, besides the Hottentot sol- 
diers from Gnadenthal, were glad to attend our family- 
worship. 

8th. The rain continued with such violence all day, 
that we were obliged to postpone our departure. During 
the night, a dog entered the tent, and carried off a but- 
ter-pot, wrapt in a napkin, and a pair of springbock 
horns, given me by Colonel Cuyler. We gave them up 
for lost; but they were found in a ditch near the tent. 
He had devoured the butter, half of the napkin, and 
part of the skull belonging to the horns. This is the 
second time that we have been thus robbed by these half- 
starved animals. 

Some Hottentots, who visited us in the tent, were de- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 207 

sirous to know our opinion concerning the groaning prac- 
tised by some of their countrymen during divine service. 
We answered, that we believed that the work of God'& 
Spirit was not to be sought for in noise and external 
marks, which might be affectation, but in an humbling 
sense of our sin and need, and in a broken heart and 
contrite spirit. The Lord was not in the wind^ nor in 
the earthquake, but in the small still voice. 

Mr. Von Buchenrode having invited our whole party 
to dinner, we again met Mr. Knobel, when, after a long 
dearth of musie, I was extremely gratified to find in the 
latter an excellent performer on the piano-forte and flute. 
We spent two or three hours in playing Haydn's and 
Mozart's duettos, to the great gratification of our hear- 
ers. Little did I expect to have such a treat in this 
distant corner of the earth. 

Towards evening, the rain ceased, and we prepared 
to set out in the morning early, hoping the rivers 
were yet passable. 

9th. Though the morning was again rainy, we de- 
termined to proceed, and I went to take leave of the 
landdrost, and make some final arrangements. No- 
thing could exceed the kindness and good will of Colo- 
nel Cuyler, who acted as if he were personally inte- 
rested in the success of our expedition. He showed 
me the horses destined for us, with his own travelling 
horse for myself. Once more I paid my respects to 
the young lion, who came forward to be stroked. A 
servant had this morning killed a pufFadder near the 
drosty. This venomous reptile was about three feet 
long, four inches in circumference, its head flat, the 
variegated spots on the back beautifully and regularly 
arranged, black upon a greenish-gray ground. 

Besides the oxen and horses provided for us, the land- 
drost sent drivers and guides, and two Hottentot soldiers, 
who should escort us through the Witte Revier Valley, 
and to Kourney. Before we set out, a number of persons, 
both whites and Hottentots, came to bid us farewell, and 
express their best wishes for our success. Our depar- 
ture was delayed till near nine o'clock. The caravan 
conisisted of our two wagons, each with ten oxen and a 



208 JOURNAL OF A 

guide, two of our own horses, three from the landdrost's 
stables, and two Hottentot soldiers, armed with musquets, 
and dressed in green jackets, with a powder-horn and 
knapsack. 

On quitting Uitenhagen, we soon entered the same kind 
of thicket of brush-wood and bushes, which surround the 
village on all sides, and cover every eminence. Our at- 
tention was again much engaged with the curious plants 
and flowers, growing luxuriantly among the bushes. 
Now and then we sent one of the men to fetch some re- 
markable flower for our inspection. Here, for the first 
time, we saw Hottentots riding on oxen. The halter or 
bridle is fastened to a piece of wood, passing through 
the cartilage of the nose, by which the beast is easily 
guided. In about two hours, we reached a farm, with a 
decent-looking dwelhng-house, and a mill. Brother 
Schmitt walked with me down the river-side, to the mill. 
The main wheel lay horizontally, the water taking the 
cogs sideways. This kind of water-mill is common here, 
of very simple construction, but has but httle power. 

The next place we touched at, was on the Kouga Re- 
vier, where we entered the house, and found a friendly 
family, from whom we purchased milk and butter. While 
I was admiring a large favourite cat, the farmer observ- 
ed, that he valued that creature as much as the best of 
his numerous dogs. She destroyed not only mice and 
rats, but even large snakes, which she attacked by beat- 
ing them about the head, till they were stupified, then, 
seizing them by the neck, killed them with her teeth. 

The road continued to lead through bushes, during the 
whole of the day, excepting where an opening occurred, 
with a few scattered copses of trees. On our approach- 
ing Geelhoutboom, which, according to the directions 
given, we were to make our first night's station, the Hot- 
tentot soldiers and old Paerl rode forward in full trot. 
This made us rather uneasy, especially when it grew 
dark, our own people being unacquainted with the road; 
but when we arrived, we forgave them, on finding that 
they had kindled a large fire in the wood, and fixed up* 
on a place of shelter for our tent. The weather now 
seemed to clear up, and the moon shone bright. Two 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 209 

fires were kindled, to which we dragged branches of trees, 
if possible, to keeptheui blazing through the night, as a 
guard against wild beasts, buffaloes having been observ- 
ed by our horsemen to enter the wood before them, and 
elephants being often seen in these parts. I slept in the 
baggage-wagon ; and towards morning heard, with con- 
cern, the rain violently beating against the covering. 

9th. When w^e rose, the clouds had dispersed. We 
were thankful for the return of fair weather, ag this was 
the day, when we hoped to see the spot on which, if it 
so pleased God, a congregation gathered from among the 
heathen, at some future period, may dwell, in the enjoy- 
ment of Christian privileges. 

One of our Hottentot soldiers having shot a brace of 
wild Guinea-fowl, brought them into the tent, and pre- 
sented them to Sister Schmitt. They were remarkably 
large and fleshy. 

^ We now surveyed the place where we had spent the 
night. It was an opening in a wild wood, with tall trees, 
and much underwood, not five minutes walk from the 
banks of the Sunday's river. A quantity of elephant's 
dung, partly fresh, lay between us and the river, which 
seemed to indicate that, even during the night, some of 
these huge creatures had passed that way. Tygers are 
said to be numerous in the thicket, but w^e neither heard 
nor saw any of these animals, so carefully do they avoid 
the presence of man. 

After breakfast, our party divided, according to the 
landdrost's direction. Brother Stein and Sister Schmitt 
remained with the wagons, and with one of the Hotten- 
tot soldiers, and the guides went straight to Kourney, 
Mr. Melville, Brother Schmitt, a soldier, and old Paerl, 
accompanied me on horseback to the Witte Revier. The 
Sunday's river flows here between high banks, covered 
with a forest of great extent on each side. Its bed is full 
of large round stones, which makes the ford unpleasant. 
The water was about three feet in depth, but in the rainy 
season the stream is very deep and rapid. As soon as 
we had mounted the heights, and got through the wood, 
Mr. Melville found some sport. Chase was made after 
antelopes, and wild hogs, but in vain : an unlucky falcon^ 

27 



210 JOURNAL OF A 

however^ perching upon a tree, was brought down by 
3. bullet. It was a large, handsome bird, about the 
size of a turkey, white and dark-brown being its princi- 
pal colours. After we had left the wood, the country 
appeared pleasant, with good grass and many bushes, 
either standing singly, or in chimps. We directed our 
p^urse towards a range of woody hills, and into a valley^ 
through which the Witte Revier runs into the Sunday's 
river. At the farm of Jacobus Scheper, senior, the val- 
ley contracts, so as to form a glen, its entrance shaded 
by large trees. Here a party of foot-soldiers occupied 
a military post. The old farmer was not at home, but 
his wife and daughter received us in a friendly way. We 
produced the order from the landdrost to her husband^ 
to show us his landmarks, and the unoccupied land, but 
did not trouble her to give us a guide, the Hottentot 
soldier being well acquainted wiTh the place. The 
English soldiers here behaved to us with great civility. 
They showed us several skins of animals they had shot 
jn the neighbourhood, among which were those of a buf- 
faloe, some tygers, a lynx, a jerboa, called springhaas by 
the Dutch, a creature of the didelphi kind with very long 
Jijnd-legs. 

We now proceeded on our journey, and entered the 
wood at the opening of the glen. The sun shone bright 
and the morning-showers had given new brilliancy to 
the rich verdure. We were charmed with the variety of 
trees and bushes, through which we rode, and noticed 
several large butterflies, with wings of the richest azure, 
sporting in the sun. Meeting with Mr. Jacobus Scheper, 
jun. we presented the landdrost's order. He begged to 
ride on to his father's farm on some business, but soon 
returned to us, when he gave us every information re- 
epecting the premises. The river, which we crossed 
several times, at fording-places, darkened by the shade 
of lofty trees, runs with a rapid stream over a stony bed, 
here and there dipping under heaps of stones. These, 
in ray opinion, having been brought down from the moun- 
tains by floods, have accumulated to a height above the 
common level of the water, as in Jackal's Kraal, (p. 161.) 
In some places, the river forms a fine broad surface, 



Vl^lt TO SOUtH AB^HICA. 211 

passing quietly, though rapidly, along. As this Was not 
the rainy season, there appears to be, at all times, d. 
sufficiency of water for every purpose, with fall enough^ 
either to work a mill, or to be led into any part of the 
more level ground. 

But much as we Were pleased, and almost enchanted, 
with the beauty of the glen. Brother Schmitt at first ob-* 
jected to its narrow width, which indeed, on entering^ 
appeared little more than a few hundred yards, till we 
had penetrated about a quarter of an English mile into 
it, when it spread considerably, the hills receding on both 
sides. To the left, they are high, and full of kloofs, 
containing large timber. A range of lovrer eminences 
lies at their foot; having, as we were informed, plenty 
of good pasturage upon them. To the right, the hills 
are lower, but more interesting in their appearance. 
Their tops are covered with bushes, the lower region 
steep, and, in many places, supported, as it were, by 
rocks of a deep red colour. These rocks are concrete 
masses of pebbles and clay, strongly impregnated with 
iron. The colour of some of them approaches even to 
pink or lake, with white or yellow veins. At every turn^ 
the outline of the hills varies, presenting some pictu-^ 
resque scenery. Leaving the path, which runs nearly 
through the middle of the valley, we rode towards the 
riirht and left boundaries, to examine the nature of the 
soil, or the course of the riverv or to ascend some emi-^ 
nence, affording a better view of the different situations 
beneath. About the middle of the vale, our attention be- 
ing attracted by the appearance of high red rock, we 
turned towards it, and found it rising perpendicularly 
beyond a large sheet of water. Between it and another 
rock on the opposite bank, a woody glen descend^d^ 
probably containing some stream, contributing towards 
the formation of the lake or pond. Both in and out of 
the wood, we had discovered abundant traces of ele- 
phants, both by their foot-marks, their sleeping-places^ 
their dung, and by several thorn-bushes, torn up by the 
roots and placed on their crowns, that these creatures 
might eat both the leaves and the more tender roots^ of 
which they are said to be particularly fond. We now 



212 JOURNAL OP A 

found the whole field near the pond covered with tlieir 
dung, which shows that they frequently resort to this 
place for water. In the day-time, they generally hide 
themselves in the large woods, and kloofs, but at nighty 
descend to quench their thirst. Leaving the pond, we 
crossed a stony eminence, and descended into the glen, 
w^here the Caffres in 1797 had their chief ehcamp- 
ment. 

This glen intersects the main valley. To the left, it 
forms a passage towards the high mountains, which are 
entirely covered wdth forest-trees, and to the right, di- 
vides a lower range of hills. They here assume singu- 
lar forms. Mr. Scheper justly compared one of them to 
a fortification ; semicircular caverns appearing in rows, 
much like some of the works seen in ancient strong- 
holds. Towards the end of the valley, the mountains, to 
the left, are higher and more imposing, and their num- 
berless kloofs, filled with wood, give them a peculiar 
character. After again several times crossing the bed 
of the river, we entered upon the premises belonging to 
our guide, Mr. Scheper, junior. The farm lies in a most 
romantic situation, at the bottom of an amphitheatre of 
lofty hills. 

It would be tedious to attempt to particularize all the 
various beautiful objects surrounding this place, but w^e 
all agreed, that it w^as one of the most singular spots we 
had seen during the whole journey. To the right, a 
steep woody bank terminates in a high black rock, on 
w^hich stood a tall tree, spreading its branches above the 
rest. Under this tree, Mr. Scheper had placed a seat, 
and there found a safe retreat, from whence he might 
fire at elephants passing through his premises, without 
danger of an attack from them, if not immediately killed. 

The old farm-house and out-houses were demolished 
by the Caffres, about fifteen years ago. The present 
dwelling, put up in place of the house burnt by those 
ferocious invaders, is a hovel, not much better than a 
Hottentot's bondhoek. We found Mrs. Scheper at home, 
and met with a friendly reception. Some dragoons 
stationed here, seemed likewise pleased with a visit from 
their countrymen. If this delightful spot were situated 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 213 

in a country where protection might be had from wild 
beasts, and still wilder men, it would be coveted by every 
lover of fine scenery, and fetch a great price. But here 
it is of little value, as long as the unhappy disturbances 
between the boors and the Caffres continue to exist, even 
when no actual war is carried on. Mrs. Scheper^ who 
was a person of better appearance and manners than 
many of her class, grew eloquent in describing their si- 
tuation : " What signifies," said she, " our building a 
good house to live in, and substantial and expensive pre- 
mises in a place like this, when, before we are aware, 
the Caffres push through the wood, set all on fire, and 
murder those who cannot save themselves by flight ? 
Again, what pleasure can we have in a fine garden, 
stocked with good fruit-trees, and garden-stuff, when, 
after all our trouble, the elephants descend from the 
kloofs, break through fences and railings, as if nothing 
was in their way, pull up or tear to pieces our trees, 
trample down or devour all our crops, and lay the whole 
garden waste ? No ! we must make shift as well as we 
can, and the less we have to lose, the less we have to 
regret." She seemed to speak from a feeling of much 
unhappiness, in being obliged to dwell in such a country. 
This beautiful valley is indeed, at present, the habita- 
tion of several wild animals, but would cease to be so, if 
inhabited by any number of human beings. It is now 
merely the passage of a few persons, between the farms 
at each end, except, that while they are military posts, 
some soldiers pass to and fro. We were told, that some 
time ago, a soldier, walking alone, came suddenly upon 
an elephant, (which may happen, if the creature is to lee- 
ward, so as not to perceive the approach of man by his 
smell.) Whether the soldier made the first attack or 
not, is not known, but the elephant, after treading off his 
leg and thigh, hip and all, threw the body into the bush- 
es. The limb, trodden to pieces, w^as found in the road, 
with his cap and accoutrements, but not the body, till af- 
ter some days. The elephant and rhinoceros consider 
large bushes no more as impediments to their pro- 
gress, than a man does tufts of grass in a field. They are 
not to be stopped by common fences or palings, and walk 



214 JOURNAL OF A 

unconcerned through the thickest underwooi^. in a 
straight line, tearing up or pressing down even stout 
thorn-bushes, with stems as thick as a man's leg. Of 
this we saw frequent proofs in the Witte Revier Valley. 
If, therefore, a settlement were made here, the first set- 
tlers might certainly be in danger of sometimes having 
their gardens and fields invaded, and even trodden down 
or grubbed up by these animals, and perhaps suifer other 
losses by ravenous beasts, who have hitherto considered 
the valley as their patrimony. But, in a fewjears, the 
mischief w^ould gradually cease, as these creatures re- 
tire from the habitations of man ; which they are always 
know^n to do. 

In the records of Riebeck, the first Dutch Governor 
at the Cape, we read of the ravages committed by lions, 
tygers, and other ferocious animals in Capetown itself, 
the whole country around being infested by them. But 
now, though the population is so thin, they have retreat- 
ed into the most distant parts of the colony. Before our 
missionaries settled at Bavians Kloof, the kloof was the 
haunt of hundreds of baboons and other wild animals. 
These also have, by degrees, retreated, and but seldom 
come from the mountains to steal peaches, or other fruit. 
The ringingof bells, cracking of whips, and firing of guns, 
often repeated, will at length drive them away, though 
they may, for a time, dispute the possession. 

When we left this beautiful spot, Mr. Scheper accom- 
panied us for several miles. Our road to Kourney lay 
over a steep, stony hill, thickly covered with almost ira- 
y)enetrable bushes, at the top of which, during the war, 
the CafFres placed a huge beam, at each end fastened 
with thongs to the trees, hoping thus to prevent the boors 
and soldiers in the valley from following them, to recover 
cattle, or to attack them. From this circumstance, the 
place has acquired the name of Slagboom, (or turnpike- 
par.) In riding up the hill, Mr. Scheper pointed out the 
plant, from which the Bosjesmans extract poison for 
their darts. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA- 215 



CHAPTER XIII. 



Arrival at Kourney. Ji cow devoured by a wolf. Sand 
Vlachte. JVighfs encampment on the Zuurberg. Cele- 
bration of Good-Friday. Burning Kraal. Forsaken 
post at Commadocha. Hospitality of the officers at a mili- 
tary station. Arrival at the Great Fish River. Peep 
into Caffraria. Proceed to Somerset. Dr. Mackrill. 
The Boschbergh. Easter-Sunday. Survey of Mr. P.^s 
farm. 

For some miles we passed through detached woods, 
then gained an open, uninteresting country, over w^hich, 
after bidding farew^ell to our friendly guide, we pushed 
on as fast as our weary and hungry horses could carry 
us, till after sunset, when w^e reached Kourney, and 
were joyfully w^elcomed by the rest of our company, w^ho 
had safely arrived with the wagons. They had been 
very civilly received and treated by the farmer, Mr. 
Osterhuysen, and by the officers of a detachment of infan- 
try stationed here, who had invited them to dinner, and 
were waiting for our arrival, to treat us with coffee. 
But as Captaio Terry was much fatigued by a ride from 
Graham's town, we only paid a complimentary visit, and 
went to the farmer's house, where we spent a very plea- 
sant evening. Mr. Osterhuysen is a man upwards of se* 
venty years of age, but remarkably lively, and full of anec- 
dotes, which he relates with great spirit. There is some- 
thing uncommonly benevolent and good humoured in his 
countenance, and whole manner. After supper, Brother 
Schmitt was desired to read and pray with the family, 
all the slaves and Hottentots being admitted. When he 
had read the lesson of the day, as prescribed in our 
Church, he addressed them in a short discourse, which, 
as we afterwards heard, made a salutary impression 
upon several of the audience. Many expressed a wish 
that we would form a settlement in this country. 

Before we went to rest, a wolf, prowling about the 
farm, set up a dreadful howl. The cattle had just been 
secured in different kraals ; but one unfortunate young 



216 JOURNAL OF A 

COW had strayed and could not be found. During the 
night, the bellowing of the poor beast proved, that she 
was suffering from the jaws of the ferocious monster. 
Brother Stein, who slept, as usual, in the tent, with the 
Hottentot soldiers and some others, set out for her res- 
cue ; but as the cries became fainter, and at length ceas- 
ed, they returned. In the morning, the mangled and 
gutted carcass was found among the bushes. 

11th. I wrote a letter to the landdrost, and sent it by 
the Hottentot soldiers, who returned with the guides, 
horses, and oxen, to Uitenhagen. Mr. Osterhuysen hav- 
ing provided us with two spanns, we set out about nine 
o'clock, and arrived by an uninteresting road, at Sand 
Vlachte, a farm in a dreary flat, with mean looking cot- 
tages, out-houses, and Hottentots' huts. Soldiers were 
quartered here, as security against the CafFres, whose de- 
predations were conducted at this time with great bold- 
ness. The military live in huts, constructed of reeds and 
rushes. The farmer and his wife were hardly civil to us, 
and we had to wait long for the relays, ordered to meet 
us at this place. Standing with Mr. Melville and Bro- 
ther Schmitt near a Hottentot hut, I heard a woman, with 
a good voice, singing a hymn to a very jiggish and 
trifling tune. I observed to my friends, how much it was 
to be regretted, that through ignorance and bad taste, 
such wretched compositions had been introduced, and 
were now sung by many congregations, instead of the 
grave and devotional old church tunes, upon which a 
soldier, who stood near us, and every now and then had 
put in his unasked-for opinion on the subject of our dis- 
course, interposed, and with much impertinence, cloaked 
in religious expressions, asserted that the tunes were 
very fine, and pleased him wonderfully; " but," added 
he, " mayhap you are one of those gentlemen who are 
enemies to the work of faith." After a vain attempt to 
convince him that an enemy of bad music might yet be a 
friend to a genuine work of faith, we left him to the en- 
joyment of the quavering song, and the satisfaction of 
having boldly opposed an unbeliever. It is by such 
rudeness that ignorant novices bring religion into dis* 
^ repute with the world, forgetting the courteousness 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 217 

taught and practised by our Saviour and his apostles, 
as consistent with that humilitj and lowHness of spirit, 
which those should learn of Him, who profess to take 
His joke upon them. 

We now proceeded towards the Zuurberg, and after 
some time, entered a woody country. In one piace, a road 
has been cut through the bushes and wood, parallel to 
the old worn-out track. The nearer we approached 
the mountain, the more were we entertained with the 
surrounding scenery, the road winding through narrow 
valleys, or over eminences, covered or crowned with 
wood. On arriving at the foot of the mountain, which is 
yery steep, the oxen made a dead stand, and it was long 
before they could be brought to go forward. When 
driven, they turned about, or backed, so as to endanger 
the safety of the wagons. Having thus extorted some 
resting-time from their impatient masters, and recovered 
strength, they patiently dragged the wagons up the hill, 
though towards the summit the road was extremely 
rough and stony. After quitting the wood, we found 
ourselves on a barren heath, from which the prospect 
was very extensive, and we could trace our route nearly 
all the way from Uitenhagen. Looking forward into 
the country, into which we were about to descend, our 
guides pointed out to us, at a vast distance, the Bosch- 
berg, the proposed extent of our journey. The sun had 
set, and we were anxious to reach the v^atley, the wind 
being high and very cold, but our guides declared it im- 
possible for the oxen to proceed a step farther. By 
blundering or ignorance, they also missed a place, where 
there was a sufficiency of water for their poor beasts ; 
thus, after searching in vain, we were obliged to encamp 
on a dry spot, where very little fuel was to be procured. 
The moon shone'bright, but the wind rose, and our tent 
was nearly blown down. 

12th. Glad to leave this uncomfortable night's lodg- 
ing, as soon as the day dawned, \^e descended into the 
valley. We were overtaken by ten dragoons, and pleas- 
ed to be able to serve one of them, by taking his and his 
horse's accoutrements into our wagon, the horse being 
sick, and obliged to be led. Among other singular 

28 



218 JOURNAL OF A 

plants on the Zuurberg, we noticed a species of the 
Wageboom, with a much broader leaf than that which 
we had hitherto seen on the hills about the Kromtn Re^ 
\'ier. The outside was a dark green, the inside silver- 
gray, covered with a w^hite down. At the bottom of the 
hill, we encamped near a farm destroyed by the Caffres, 
and forsaken, where we found the bed of a brook, with 
only a few puddles of muddy water remaining in it. 
This, however, was all we could procure, both for our- 
selves and our thirsty oxen. 

Being Good-Friday, we called to mind the great event 
celebrated on this day, in the Christian Church. We 
were in spirit with our congregations, met in so many 
other parts of the world, as it were, under the Cross of 
our Redeemer, and partaking of that consolation, which 
is to be found in the remembrance of His sufferings and 
death for us. But even here, in this lonely vale, se- 
cluded from all Christian society, we and our Hottentots 
were not forgotten by Him, who has promised, that He 
will be with His followers alway, even unto the end of 
the w^orld. Having seated ourselves, after breakfast, in 
a semicircular excavation of the bank of the brook, 
Brother Schmitt first read the lessons of the day, out of 
the Dutch translation of the Harmony of the Evangelists, 
while w^e followed our Lord, in spirit, through all the 
sceqes of His sufferings. We prayed, that the Holy 
Spirit might apply the merits of His passion and death 
to our souls, and convince us, that " He was wounded for 
our transgressions, and bruised for our iniquities," and 
that the word of His Cross might approve itself the 
Power of God in this country also, for the conversion of 
many heathen. No service in any church or chapel 
could be attended with more solemnity and true devo- 
tion, nor with a more heart-reviving sense of the pre- 
sence of the Lord, than our worship in this earthen tem- 
ple. 

On leaving this place, we ascended to a wide waste, 
similar to the Karroo, in- view of a range of hills, con- 
nected with the Zuurberg, and remarkable for that re- 
gular division by kloofs, so common in this country. 
Each has a hillock at its foot, shaped like a cushion, of 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 219 

which we counted above twenty, having almost exactly 
the same form and dimensions. Not nature herself, but 
some violence done to hea*, has produced this extraordi- 
nary phenomenon. 

We ought now to have directed our course, according 
to the landdrost's advice, to the farm of Cornelius Engel- 
brecht, but our ignorant and obstinate guides, notwith- 
standing all my protestations, carried us right out of the 
regular track. We passed a farm, said to be burnt by 
the CafFres. Either by accident or design, the beast- 
kraal was also fired. The immense quantity of dung, 
heaped up for years, and now as dry as chaff, was yet 
smothering, and volumes of smoke arising from it. The 
house, and several soldiers' huts, stood empty. About 
two in the afternoon, we reached Commadocha, a milita- 
ry post, lately forsaken. Viewing it at a distance, we 
pleased ourselves with the hopes of there procuring a 
fresh supply of good water, milk, and other articles, of 
which we were in want. But not a dog came forth to 
notice our arrival, much less a human being. The place 
was surrounded by a mud-wall and a ditch. The wall 
had loop-holes, and small bastions at the angles, suffi- 
cient to resist any attack of undisciplined Caffres. We 
entered this lonely place with some caution, but found 
every part of it completely emptied of furniture. Two 
or three old hats were lying about, which might have 
been very serviceable to our Hottentots, but they would 
not take them^ observing, that their owners were not 
there to permit it. We acted with the same honesty, in 
not seizing upon three pigs, and a number of hens and 
chickens, running about the garden and bushes. Three 
small dogs, nearly dead with hunger, were lying within 
the wall, A fine cat came purring towards us out of a 
bush, which we fed and intended to carry to the next 
post, but she would not stay in the wagon. 

The whole situation, with the surrounding country, 
looked dreary and comfortless in the extreme; and 
having rested about half an hour, we proceeded, and 
arrived about sunset at a military post, at that time 
commanded by a Lieutenant Forbes. The lieutenantj 
and Ensign Dingley, offered us every assistance. Being 



320 JOURNAL OF A 

in want of several articles, we procured them from 
the contractor, whose shop was situated on the other 
side of a narrow vale. Ihe Ensign, however, soon 
came to fetch us back to his hut, and insisted on get- 
ting a dinner cooked for us. Having been advised to 
take advantage of the full moon, and proceed to the 
next station, we were obliged to decline his offer, but 
accepted of that of the heutenant, to take coffee with 
him. He presented Sister Schmitt with a loaf of wheat- 
en bread of superior excellence, which proved a great 
treasure tp us. The road was good, and we arrived 
in about two hours at the post near the banks of the 
Great Fish tiiver, the boundary between the colony 
and Caffraria. Having pitched our tenr not far from 
the kraal, we spent the nigfit quietly, though we after- 
wards heard, that on that very day, the Cafllres had 
stolen fifty head of cattle from the neighbouring farm, 
and that several boors and soldiers were in pursuit of 
the thieves. Report added, that being overtaken, they 
quitted their prey, but wounded a boor in the neck with 
an assagay, and carried off* the fire-arms of two others. 

Some Hottentots from the kraal, visited us late in the 
evening, among whom were two women belonging to 
Gnadenthal, whose husbands were soldiers. Brother 
Schmitt had some conversation with them, admonishing 
them, so to conduct themselves in this strange country, 
that the cause of the gospel might be honoured, and not 
disgraced. 

13th. Rising at daybreak, we heard some people sing- 
ing hymns in one of the Hottentots' huts, near the farm. 
They belonged to Mr. Vanderhagen's congregation, at 
Grahamstown. Meanwhile Mr. Melville on foot, 
and Brother Schmitt on horseback, had set out for the 
river, being determined to cross it, if only for a few mo- 
ments, to set foot on Caffre ground. Thither we follow- 
ed them with Brother Stein. They had found the ford 
very bad, the bed of the river being full of sharp rocks. 
However, both gained their point, and stood some time 
on the opposite bank. The rest of our paity were satis- 
fied to get upon a sand-bank in the middle of the river, 
which was here no wider than a laro-e brook. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 221 

This part of Caffraria presents itself with hills of mo- 
derate height, and a smooth outline. The plain next the 
river, and ascent towards the hills, are studded with the 
mimosa, and seeixi to be good grazing ground. The 
road on the CafFre side was blocked up with thorn-bushes, 
as a signal that none are allowed to pass that way. On 
returning, Brother Schmitt found some difficulty in re- 
mounting his horse, and we felt rather in fear, lest the 
frightened animal should do some harm either to his rider 
or himself 

Our prayers, this morning, were ojfTered up with pecu- 
liar fervency, that the Lord might soon cause the light 
of His Gospel to shine upon that benighted country, in 
full view of which, we travelled nearly the whole of the 
day, at no great distance from the banks of the river, 
through a dry, barren waste. We halted near a farm, 
where we were long detained, to give our weary oxen 
time to pick some food. The young men from the farm 
paid us a visit. Our ignorant guides being quite unac- 
quainted with the road, we had to depend upon the saga- 
city of our own people, to bring us to the Boschberg. Mr. 
Melville had left us this morning, having received infor- 
mation that his friend Mr. Swann, a Surveyor to Govern- 
ment, was employed at a neighbouring farm. He intended 
to join us again at Somerset, the residence of Dr. Mack- 
rill, in Bruntjes Hoogte. 

At sunset we arrived at a farm, to which the road 
prescribed by Colonel Cuyler, would have brought us in 
the forenoon. The farmer, Van Klerk, received us 
civilly, and sent a lad to show us the way to Somerset. 
But on arriving at the ford of the Little Fish River, 
which we were now about to cross tor the third time, and 
not knowing whether Mr. Melville had reached Somerset 
to announce our approach, we thought best to encamp 
on its banks, lest we should prove troublesome to the 
Doctor, by an unexpected arrival, at so late an hour- 
Our people kindled two large fires, for which we found 
plenty of fuel. As it was very cold, and the wind rose 
so much as to threaten our tent with an overthrow, we 
spent the night rather uncomfortably. 

14th. Easter-Sunday morning. How different was 



222 JOURNAL OF A 

our situation to that of most of our Brethren on this 
great memorial-day ! Instead of being, with them, early 
engaged in declaring our joy over the glorious resurrec- 
tion of the Lord, and remembering, at the graves of our 
departed friends, the truly Christian hope of a blessed 
immortality, imparted to us by faith in our glorified Re- 
deemer, in whose likeness we once shall rise, we were 
here encamped on the banks of an African river, never 
before visited by a member of our Church, and consult- 
ing how we should best introduce ourselves to a man, 
with whom none of us but Mr. Melville had the smallest 
acquaintance. However, we were in spirit with our con- 
gregations, adoring our risen Lord and Saviour, who, 
though withdrawn from mortal sight, is present with His 
people in every corner of the earth. The result of our 
deliberations was, that I should take old Paerl, and ride 
to Dr. Mackrill's house, previously to announce the party. 
After crossing the river, and reaching the top of the 
bank, the country assumed the appearance of a park. 
The land was covered with short grass, and the thorn- 
bush, dispersed in clumps, or standing singly, its greatest 
ornament. The mountains of the Boschberg had a plea- 
sant appearance, illumined by a morning sun. Doctor 
Mackrill's house lies under one of the highest parts of 
the range, and is a small neat building of unburnt brick, 
stuccoed. x4djoining to it are several out-houses, and 
huts for his slaves. The premises have a much cleaner 
appearance than those of even the most respectable 
farmers in the country, with whom neatness and cleanli- 
ness seldom enter into calculation. One of them once 
answered an observation I made on the subject, thus; 
" What should I be the richer for it ? Plantations, and 
the other arrangements you propose, would cost me 
money, and do me no good." But Dr. Mackrill is an 
Englishman. The name of Somerset has been given to 
the place, in honour of the present Governor. 

On approaching the house, I was met by Mr. Melville, 
who had arrived last night, expecting that we should 
soon follow, preparations having been made for our ac- 
commodation. The Doctor, to whom I presented the 
letter from Colonel Cuyler, received me with great po« 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 223 

liteness, and immediately despatched a servant to the 
river^ to bring in the whole party. After breakfast, we 
went out to view the garden. It lies at the foot of the 
mountain, and is stored, not only with a great abundance 
of every kind of garden-produce, but, the Doctor, being 
a good botanist, has transplanted into it a great many of 
the flowering plants from the wilderness and woods, and, 
by culture, very much improved their quality and beau- 
ty. Here is every thing requisite for an excellent gar- 
den : great depth of the richest soil, water in abundance, 
and hands to work. The orange, and other fruit-trees, 
appear in great perfection. The Boschberg, rising im- 
mediately behind the garden, is a beautiful mountain, of 
considerable height, intersected by many kloofs, filled 
with wood, the intermediate eminences, like buttresses^ 
supporting the mountain. They swell, towards the 
bottom, into hills of fanciful shape, covered with green 
sod of the richest hue, excepting where the wood stretch- 
es from the kloofs over part of them. At the top of 
these buttresses runs a horizontal ledge of rock, partly 
covered with bushes and creepers. A precipice of a 
red colour, with gray veins, and overhanging a wide 
kloof filled with timber-trees, has a singular effect. The 
region, beyond the rocky ledge, is rough, but grassy. 
The mountain recedes to the right and left, and, towards 
the north-east, seems to rest upon another range, of 
similar character. It has an even outline, and, beyond 
the summit, on the side of Graaf Reynet, is said to shelve 
off more gradually. 

We observed two large baboons, sitting separately on 
projecting rocks, probably placed there by the troop, as 
sentinels, to guard against surprise. Though somewhat 
intimidated by our shouts and menacing gestures, they 
seemed determined to keep their station, sometimes slow- 
ly retreating a few paces, and then returning to their 
seats, showing their teeth and grinning defiance. 

When we left the garden, passing by a low shed, a 
serpent, of the most vivid green colour, beautifully mark- 
ed upon the back, and spangled with silver-coloured 
spots, reared its head from the thatched roof, and hissed 
at Brother vSchmitt. He killed it with his stick, and 



224 JOURNAL OF A 

brought it out. The Dutch call it, Dachslange, (roof- 
serpent,) as it seems to like to hide in old thatch, and is 
said to be very venomous. / 

We now visited the shop, containing every article, of 
which either the boors, the Hottentots, or Calfres in the 
neighbourhood might stand in need. It is under the su- 
perintendency of Dr. Mackrill. Here may be had iron 
and tin-ware, cloth, muslins, silks, pots and pans, and 
even tobacco and snuff. Government, in promoting; this 
speculation, had a benevolent design ; wishing to promote 
confidence among the neighbouring Caffres and other 
tribes, who, being in want of many articles of conveni- 
ence and comfort, might purchase them here by barter, 
or otherwise. Thus, friendly communication being esta- 
blished, and more wants created, or rather, a better 
knowledge given them of the advantages of the arts of 
civilization, a disposition to industry might, by degrees, 
be introduced. 

In this view, no objection can justly be raised to a cre- 
ation of additional wants among a savage and ignorant 
people, whatever some philosophers may say of the hap- 
piness of a state of nature. To assert, that at length, 
by abuse, it may end in greediness, covetousness, and ra- 
pacity, is no more than saying, that every faculty and dis- 
position of the human mind, may be turned, either to a 
good or bad use, as directed by a good, or perverted by 
an evil spirit. The original plan of the establishment at 
Somerset, was, to improve the extraordinary goodness of 
the ground belonging to the farm, for the cultivation of 
tobacco, which during the American war had risen to an 
enormous price in the colony. Dr. Mackrill being a man 
of extensive knowledge and active patriotism, proposed 
to Government the improvement of the growth of that 
article in this newly-acquired colony, not only with a 
view to cheapen it here, but to furnish a supply for ex- 
portation. Being permitted to fix upon a situation for 
that purpose, he wisely chose perhaps the finest in the 
whole district of Uitenhagen. But the war ceasing, and 
tobacco being again sold at a price so low, as to destroy 
every prospect of advantage to the colony, the plan was 
changed. Corn is to be the principal produce in future. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 225 

After dinner, we took a walk to see the land belong- 
ing to the farm. Its boundary, to the eastward, is a ra- 
pid brook, proceeding from the mountain, and emptying 
itself into the Little Fish River. The greatest part of 
the valley is sprinkled with thorn-bushes, some of which 
are of extraordinary size and beauty. The brook forms 
two very fine cascades before it enters the river, and the 
glen, through which it descends, is truly romantic. The 
upper fall is over eight or ten ledges of rocks, and the 
lower plunges, in several streams, into a deep basin. 
Large-timber trees, and wide-spreading bushes, adorn 
the steep banks of the brook. 

Our company accidentally dividing, I walked with Dr. 
Mackrill through the wood, in which he hoped to treat 
me with a sight of buschbocks, and some of the many 
monkeys that inhabit it. We saw none ; but the foot- 
steps of a tyger were distinctly marked on the sandy 
path; and two serpents were killed. 

After tea, many Hottentots and slaves came to the 
tent, to whom Brother Schmitt read the history of our 
Saviour's resurrection, and delivered a short discourse. 
The poor people seemed very attentive and thankful. 

15th. The aim of our visit to Somerset was, by Dr. 
Mackrill's assistance, to obtain some knowledge of the 
farm, belonging to a Mr. P., now taken from him by 
Government, on account of the part he took in the late 
rebellion, and, as above stated, proposed by the land- 
drost, as an eligible situation for a missiopary establish- 
ment, for which he thought it might be easily obtained, 
notwithstanding there had been some idea of making it 
a military post. Though we could not get over our ob- 
jections against applying for the possession of a confis- 
cated domain, yet we should not have felt satisfied here- 
after, had we not accepted of the landdrost's kind offer, 
to give us an opportunity of seeing its situation. We 
therefore left Somerset for Mr. P.'s place, about nine 
o'clock, Mr. Austin, the deputy farmer, and Mr. Oakely, 
a young gentleman, studying under the Surveyor Mr. 
Swann, accompanying us on horseback. Mr. Melville 
had gone to the house of Commandant Nels, to meet his 

29 



226 JOURNAL or ^ 

friend Mr. Swann, and we sent the baggage-wagon, to 
wait for us at Mr. Van Klerk's. 

Our conductors thought, that our aim in visiting Mr. 
P.'s farm, had better remain unknown, and the party be 
announced as only accompanying an English gentleman 
on his travels through the colony. 

We crossed the Little Fish River twice, keeping along 
the plain, in ^, line with the mountain, and in about an 
hour's time, reached the dwelling of this singular man. 
It was a poor cottage, no better than a Hottentot's 
house; but the vorhaus, or hall, w^as large enough to 
contain a pretty numerous company of rebels. 

Mr. P. is father to one of those lately executed : 
another son was transported; and one would feel more 
pity for the poor man, had he not been a principal pro- 
moter of the late disturbances, though prevented from 
taking an active part, on account of age and infirmities. 
His house, however, is said to have been the nursery of 
sedition, where the rebellious boors had frequent meet- 
ings, and were advised and encouraged by the old man. 
He had, throughout life, been noted for his opposition to 
Government, and more particularly hated the English, 
for making its measures more effective than the Dutch 
were able to do. 

Notwithstanding his escape from the fate which over- 
took his rebellious sons, yet both his former conduct in 
aiding and abetting, and even his present encourage- 
ment of every remaining disposition to revolt, has indu- 
ced Government to use the power vested in it, and, by 
cancelling his lease, to make him quit the farm, remu- 
neration being given for the opstall, that is, for the 
buildings and improvements. The official notice had 
pot yet reached him. 

I could not help contemplating the old man with much 
compassion. He spoke of the loss of his son, "who was 
no more," and of the other, " who had left the country," 
as having so discomposed his affairs, and disturbed his 
mindi that he intended to sell his farm, and move into 
some other part of the colony. He related, that he had 
teen settled in South Africa, ever since the year 1771, 
and for his own pleasure, travelled through it iq all di- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 227 

rection^, even among the Bosjesmen and Caffres, by 
whom he had always been treated with the greatest kind- 
ness and regard. He had a good deal of the cant of our 
English democrats, and self-named philanthropists about 
him. He behaved very civilly to us, though I was an-- 
nounced as an Englishman, but while I was walking over 
part of the grounds with Messrs. Austin, Schmitt, and 
Stein, not knowing that Sister Schmitt was an English 
woman, he betrayed his hatred against the nation ; 
^' The English," said he, " pretend to know, that this 
country lately belonged to the CafFres, but 1 know bet- 
ter. Not a CafFre lived here, when I first came into it, 
nor yet within a great many miles beyond the Great Fish 
River, but the English think themselves the wisest of 
men." 

This place is undoubtedly a most eligible situation for 
a missionary settlement, possessing corn-land and pas- 
turage, and well supplied with water. The valley is 
very extensive, and connected with others, enclosed 
by branches of the mountains. We looked at a wolf- 
house on a heathy eminence behind the garden. It 
is a walled trap, resembling a mouse-trap, with a fall- 
ing door, awkwardly constructed. In this trap, five 
wolves have been caught within the last three months* 
The Brethren Schmitt and Stein continued their walk to- 
wards the hills, and down the valley, while Mr. Aus- 
tin returned with me to the house. The buildings form 
a very unsightly group of hovels, bondhoeks, and 
ruinous walls. 6ung, rags, remnants of half-devoured 
carcasses, and other filth, surround the dwelling on 
all sides. 

Beyond this place we did not extend our reconnoi- 
tring journey. The landdrost had indeed most kindly 
expressed a wish, that we would go yet farther, and 
examine situations on Bavians Revier, in Graaf Reynet, 
a river flowing into the Great Fish River; but as he 
could not point out any particular place, yet unoccu- 
pied, and I had heard, that the only land worth pos- 
sessing, on that riVer, was on the Caffre side, where 
no Hottentot settlement could be formed with safety, 
and having likewise far exceeded the time appropri- 



228 JOURNAL OF A 

^ ated for this expedition, we resolved to return from hence 
to Gnadenthal. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Return to Uitenhagen. Commandant Mis. Ostriches. 
Wild Peacocks. A Pvf adder killed. Herds of Spring- 
bocks. Restless night spent at Engelbrechfs farm. Ta- 
rantula. Encampment on the Zuurberg. Jsighth lodg- 
ing at Kourney. Destruction of the garden by three ele- 
phants. Part of the company go to the Witte Revier. 
The Ados drift on Sunday's River. Arrival of both 
parties at Uitenhagen. Report concerning the Witte Re- 
vier Vale. Journey from Uitenhagen to the Chamtoos 
Revier. Visit to Klein Revier. Observations made by far- 
mers on the measures of Government. Wild oxen. Elland's 
Fonteyn. KUphubel. 

On arriving at Mr. Van Klerk's farm, we spanned out 
in the field. The provision made for us by Dr. Mackrill, 
was such as to render us independent of the assistance 
of the family. It was not till after sunset that we left this 
place, and set out for Commandant Nels' farm. Here we 
were kindly and hospitably received both by him and his 
wife. They have no family of their own, but have adopt- 
ed six children of poor neighbours. In this, as in other 
instances, they showed much superiority of character. 
Mr. Nels was sent by Colonel Cuyler to the rebellious 
boors, to endeavour to bring them to reason, and to pro- 
mise forgiveness of the past, if they would only return 
to their dwellings in peace; but they not only paid no 
attention to his remonstrances, but when he was gone, 
said, that they were sorry they had not shot him. As a 
reward for his courageous conduct on many occasions, 
he received a beautiful double-barrelled gun from Lord 
Charles Somerset. 

We found here, our friend Melville, Mr, Swann, Mr, 
Oakejy, and very comfortable accommodations. Nor 
would Mrs. Nels take any pay for our excellent supper, 
breakfast, provender for the horses, and several article? 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 229 

of housekeeping, given to us. Brother Stein had slept 
in the tent, but was much disturbed by the howHng of 
wolves, by the cattle breaking out of the kraai, and 
the attempts made to secure them again. Indeed we were 
thankful to find, that none of our loose oxen had fallen 
a prey to the nightly depredators. 

1 6th. We set out about nine o'clock, accompanied by 
Messrs. Swann and Oakely. The road was hilly and 
stony, and the country barren. After about three hours' 
ride, we halted on the waste to dine- The horsemen 
preceded us, in hopes of shooting some game, but were 
unsuccessful, though many ostriches, wild peacocks, kor- 
hans, (black-cocks,) and antelopes were seen. A large 
puffadder, however, received the contents of Brotlier 
Schmitt's gun. This powerful and venomous serpent was 
crossing the road, under the feet of the oxen. It was a 
novel sight to see him twining his clumsy body upon the 
sand, which he did with a scraping noise. The Hotten- 
tots were extremely eager to pursue and destroy him ; 
but to approach this serpent is dangerous, as, by throwing 
himself backward, he is sure to wound any object near 
him. He would have escaped, but for the gun being 
ready loaded. He was about three feet long, and three 
inches in diameter. 

We made halt for half an hour, at Mr. Van Vyver's 
farm, and proceeded across a flat country, covered with 
heath and a few low bushes. Here we were amused by 
the sight of some hundreds of springbocks, one of the 
most elegant antelopes of this country. They stood in 
parties of twenty or thirty together, and our sportsmen 
were all alive, endeavouring to approach near enough to 
make sure of their aim. But all attempts were vain. 
The bucks suffered them to approach to within gun-shot, 
when they set off full speed, leaping sometimes over each 
other. They bounded along, in a species of dance, 
springing with all four feet at once from the ground, then, 
swiftly facing about, surveyed their pursuers. Sixteen 
shot were fired at them, but not in a single instance did 
it appear that one had been wounded. 

This afforded me great pleasure, for as we had no dogs 
to run down and secure any one that might have had a 



230 JOURNAL OF A 

leg broken, or been otherwise hurt, it must have given 
pain to any feeling mind to know, that the poor animal 
was lamed, and grievously suffering, without benefit to 
us, and would most Hkely be made the prey of some 
cruel, ravenous beast. Could we have obtained one of 
them for our subsistence, the killing of it would have 
been excusable. The shot fired contributed, though not 
to our gain, yet to our pleasure, for it set them in motion, 
and the swiftness and elegance of their movements were 
well worth observing. Nor did we fail altogether, for 
Brother Schmitt brought down a wild peahen, which in- 
creased our stock of provisions. It was a beautiful bird, 
though not equal to the cock in brilliancy of colour, be- 
ing chiefly of a brownish gray and black. 

At night, we arrived at Cornelius Engelbrecht's farm. 
The old man w^as not at home, and the family, consisting 
of several young men and women, hardly bid us welcome, 
but suffered us to put up our tent on their dirty werft. 
We placed it between the wagons, and after a dish of 
coffee, went to rest, intending to set out as early as possi- 
ble in the morning. About one o'clock, I was waked by 
a snuffling and bellowing noise close to the tent. In a 
short time all were roused from sleep, by the frightful 
roar of a bull, which, having broke out of the kraal, was 
parading up and down the werft. Sister Schmitt rising 
and looking out, saw him coming straight towards us. 
He pushed on between the wagon and tent, and had his 
feet got entangled in the tent-ropes, the overthrow of our 
dormitory, and perhaps worse mischief, might have been 
the consequence. The whole place was soon in an up- 
roar. All the oxen in the kraal, availing themselves of 
the breach made by the bull, went off full trot into the 
wilderness. Our oxen did not stay behind. All the 
young men were up^ shouting and hallooing, calling the 
slaves, and, as the whole herd rushed with great impe- 
tuosity by the tent, they had the kindness to order them 
to be kept off, lest we should be overrun. The sheep 
and goats in an adjoining kraal, whether from fright, or 
envying the horned cattle their happy escape, bleated 
aloud, the dogs barked, the children screamed, and even 
the geese and ducks joined in the horrible concert. This 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 231 

hubbub lasted for more than two hours, and when we 
arose, in the morning of the 

17th, Not an ox was to be seen, far or near. Men were 
sent in every direction, but it was nine o'clock before our 
cattle were brought back. Meanwhile the young people 
had grown more friendly, and inquired for Gnadenthal 
knives, called Boschlemmer. 

Being anxious to get across the Zuurberg before dark, 
we thanked God, that the weather remained fine and clear, 
and about noon reached the same valley, which had 
been consecrated by our Good-Friday's service. But 
now we found the brook perfectly dry. The poor thirsty 
oxen, as soon as unyoked, rushed towards it, and thrust 
their noses into the reeds, which filled its bed ; first into 
one place, then into another, where they hoped to find 
water, but in vain. They then lifted up their heads in 
bitter disappointment, and bellowed forth their com- 
plaints. Having sent our people to the old forsaken 
kraal, to search for water, to our great joy a pond was 
discovered, with fresh water in abundance. When driven 
to it, the oxen could hardly leave off drinking. Mean- 
w^hile the wind rose, and before we arrived at the top 
of the mountain, it blew^ a hard gale. We therefore hur- 
ried down the other side into the woods. 

Having left the wagon, I walked down the steep decli- 
vity with Mr. Melville, at a little distance from the road ; 
he, in search of plants, and I, examining the stones. 
Having discovered some small crystals in a vein of quartz, 
I took up the stone, and feeling something soft under my 
thumb, turned it up, to see what it was. I found that I 
was pressing upon a young tarantula, about the size of 
a halfpenny. Its legs, which were chequered with brown 
and white, were doubled under its body, the creatwro be- 
ing probably asleep. I shook it off, and called my friend to 
inform me what sort of a spider I had encountered, when 
he congratulated me on my having escaped its bite. I 
felt, in truth, thankful to God for niy preservation. We 
descended till we arrived at a snug place, enclosed with 
high trees and bushes, where we pitched our tent, and 
made two large fires, partly with a view to keep off' wild 
beasts, with which these forests abound* Our weary 



.232 JOURNAL OF A 

oxen found good grass and some water in pools, and we 
suffered them to feed for two hours. They were then 
tethered to the wagons, for security's sake, but disturbed 
us much during the night. Some needless alarm had 
also seized our people, as to danger from CafFre thieves, 
who were said to be hid in the woods. We commended 
ourselves, with full trust, to the mercy and protection of 
our Almighty Preserver. 

I8th. We set off early, and at the place where, in the 
late Caffre war, the Caffres had their principal camp, we 
met five wagons with a detachment of infantry, going to 
establish a military post on the Boschberg. At Sand 
Vlachte, neither bread nor milk was to be procured, the 
soldiers having consumed the whole stock. After a short 
stay, we pushed on to Kourney, where we arrived at 
four o'clock, and resolved to spend the night. Mr. and 
Mrs. Osterhuysen received us with their usual friendship 
and hospitality. 

Our Hottentots having expressed a desire to see the 
valley of the Witte Revier, we held a consultation with 
them in the tent, to contrive how they, with Brother 
Stein and Sister Schmitt, might accomplish it. We wish- 
ed our people to judge of the fitness of the place by their 
own observation, as much depended upon the report 
they might make to their brethren, on their return to 
Gnadenthal. 

19th. We rose about five o'clock, and after another 
conference, resolved, that as our oxen were too much 
fatigued to undertake the journey, Mr. Osterhuysen 
should furnish a spann, which should convey the above- 
mentioned party to the Witte Revier, while Mr. Melville, 
with myself, Leonhard Paerl, and Johannes, should pro- 
ceed straight to Uitenhagen. 

During the night, three elephants had entered the of- 
ficer's garden, at the bottom of the eminence on which 
the farm was situated, and demolished nearly all the pro- 
duce. They had pushed down the gate and a fig-tree 
near it, trampled upon several beds of onions and cabba" 
ges, eaten what they liked, and marched off through the 
fence, towards a pool of water. Captain Terrey, who 
commanded here, walked with Mr. Melville and me 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 233 

^ through the garden and fig-orchard, where we measured 
the diameter of their round foot-marks. They were of 
three different sizes, of fourteen, ten, and eight inches in 
diameter, the latter probably of a calf. Having break- 
fasted with the captain, we set out and took the road to 
the Ados Drift, on Sunday's river. By the way, we saw 
abundant traces of recent works of elephants, trees 
pushed down or pulled up by the roots, and near the 
road a great quantity of fresh dung, as likewise a large 
thorn-tree, with a stem nearly a foot in diameter, stand- 
ing topsy-turvy, on its crown, with only one large root, 
at the top, all the smaller being devoured, as well as the 
more tender parts of the bush and the leaves. 

At noon we reached some hovels near the drift, where 
we found a slave, a Hottentot woman, and a few children, 
got some milk and butter, and a miserable dinner. Our 
few biscuits were spoiled by a poisonous lizard, which 
had crept into the basket, and were given to the hungry 
dogs. Near the place lay the horns of a large koodoo, 
with the tips cut off to make tobacco-pipes. I had hoped 
to have gained an opportunity of examining the steep 
banks of the river, but now saw with concern that I 
could not possibly reach the limestone-rocks on the oppo- 
site shore. They have many extraneous fossils imbedded 
in them. We found the ford very practicable, and in 
the evening, sought shelter from drizzling rain, behind a 
bush of speckboom, where we got a good night's rest in 
the wagon. 

> 20th. We set off early, got a little refreshment at 
^Sandfonteyn and reached Uitenhagen about noon, where 
'we were cordially received by Colonel Cuyler, and dined 
with him, in company of Major Fraser, the deputy-land- 
drost from Graham's-town, and two other officers. 

Our company returned from the Witte Revier late at 
night. — Their report was very satisfactory. The Hot- 
tentots were much pleased with the situation, and decla- 
red, that a settlement might be made there with every 
convenience required by a Hottentot congregation, there 
being much sweet grass, which, in their opinion, is a 
point of the first consideration. They had with much 
difficulty reached the Ados Drift yesterday night, and 



234 JOURNAL OF A 

spanned out among the bushes. Elephants and rhinoce- 
roses had left so many traces of their existence in the 
wood^ that they were not without apprehensions of be- 
ing disturbed. In the morning early, they forded the 
river, but the weariness of the oxen was so great, that 
they could hardly creep along. 

On leaving the Witte Revier, Brother Schmitt ad- 
dressed the party on the aim of our visit, and prayed the 
Lord, if it were His gracious will, to estabHsh here a 
place, in which his name might be glorified. He then 
opened the collection of Scripture-texts for every day in 
the year, and the text which immediately presented itself 
to his view, is so remarkable, that I cannot help quoting 
it. — It was the r2th verse of the 33d chapter of Jeremi- 
ah : " Again^ in this place^ which is desolate^ without man 
and without beasts and in all the cities thereof^ shall be a ha- 
bitation of shepherds^ causing their flocks to lie down.^^ We 
pray, that with respect to this desolate spot also, this en- 
couraging prediction may be fulfilled. 

21st. During the day, our old friends, and several Hot- 
tentots visited us. I called upon Colonel Cuyler, who 
kindly furnished me with the needful orders for relays, 
both through his district, and to George. The whole 
party dined with Mr. Buchenrode, who approved himself 
our true friend, both during our former and present 
abode at Uitenhagen. Mr. Allen, the secretary, again 
offered us every assistance in his power. 

22d, We left Uitenhagen at nine oVlock, and at half 
past three reached KafFre 'Kraal, Mr. Neukirch's farm, 
on Van Staades' Revier, where w^e were again hospita- 
bly treated. The charming glen and woods, through 
which the river runs, delighted us anew; and finding 
oxen ready, w^e proceeded, without much delay, to 
Klaarefonteyn. Mr. Neukirch's brother received us 
with expressions of much pleasure, and I found here time 
and opportunity to continue my diary, with ink, made of 
the leaves of the Wageboom. The process is simple. 
The leaves, dvy or fresh, are boiled, with a rusty iron 
nail, and a piece of sugar candy added, when the decoc- 
tion becomes a fine black ink, used for wanting, dying, 
or as a black-reviver. I purchased here from a poor te- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 235 

vnant, a pair of buffaloe-cow horns, and Mr. Neuklrch 
presented me with a beautiful pair of buschbock horns. 
I was happy to be able to return his civiiitj, by giving 
him an eight-bladed knife, which was greatly adaiired 
and valued. He had a buffaloe calf in a kraal, with 
other young cattle. Its hair looked very rough, and it 
was said to be wild and unruly. Among the mountains, 
there was much vivid lightning. 

23d. On leaving Klaarefonteyn, we again very much 
admired the beauties of that tract of country, called the 
Galgenbosch, and the weather being fine, w^e beheld it to 
great advantage. To the right of the road, and towards 
the hills, the character of the country is truly singu- 
lar. 

About noon, w^e arrived at the Louri Revier, when 
Mr. Melville and I, mounting our horses, crossed the ri- 
er, and rode up to the farm-house, half a mile distant, 
o pay a visit to the farmer, Mr. Van Roy, of whom we 
ad heard a good character from the Neukirchs. I had 
ikewise an intention of purchasing the horns of a buffa- 
loe bull, which he had shot some days ago. Having an 
opportunity of conveying such subjects of curiosity to 
^England, I had begun to make a collection of the horns 
k)f animals, peculiar to this country, which, with other cu- 
riosities, I wished to present to the College of the United 
[Brethren, at Nisky, in Saxony. 

We found Mr. and Mrs. Van Roy at home, and well 
.pleased with our visit. After some conversation, we in- 
quired about the horns. He related, that about ten 
idays ago, he had met with and shot at the buffaloe, in a 
Iwood not far off, and wounded him in the leg. The ani- 
mal fled, but being pursued and brought down by the 
idogs, was shot a second time through the head. When 
Mr. Van Roy showed us the head, he said, that he meant 
to make a tobacco-pipe of the points of the horns. We 
^expressed our regret, that so beautiful a pair of horns 
should be destroyed in that way; but he replied, that it 
would cost him five dollars to get a pipe of that kind. 
[Mr. Melville, supposing him to Dioan that each horn 
Iwould make one pipe, asked me, in English, Avhether I 
would a'lve ten dollars for the head, to wliich I agreed. 



236 JOURNAL OF A 

On hearing this, the truly honest farmer exclaimed:— 
*' Ten ! no, I said five would be required to get a tobac- 
co-pipe, and I will take no more from that gentleman.'^ 
A slave was then set to work to cut off the superfluous 
bone, and make it more portable. He now brought the 
head of a bufFaloe cow, shot some time ago, and would 
have given it into the bargain, but I paid him what I had 
given for the first of the kind I purchased. 

He invited us to stay and dine with him. Among other 
questions respecting England, and English customs, he 
laid a case before us, wishing to know how he was to 
act, consistently with English law. One of his Hotten- 
tots had shot his neighbour's bull, mistaking him in the 
dark for a wild buffaloe. The neighbour required, that 
he should pay the damage, which he refused, on the 
ground that he had not shot it, and the Hottentot had 
nothing to pay. We told him, that in England, a master 
was responsible for the deeds of his servant^ and the 
Hottentot having done it, while employed by him, and 
with his gun, we thought, that he would get nothing by a 
suit, but do best to compromise the affair, and pay for 
the bull. He spoke as a friend to the English, but re- 
gretted, that they were losing their popularity in the 
colony, by taxation, and the mode of settling the quit- 
rents. He thought it hard, that when a man had done 
every thing in his power to improve his farm, by making 
water-courses for irrigation, clearing land, &c. that those 
very improvements should tell against him, and he be 
charged a higher rent than his neighbour, who was an 
indolent man, suffering his estate to go to decay, when, 
in fact, it was better land, and more productive, and 
therefore more able to bear the burden; " But," added 
he, '^ we would bear taxation, if the English would only 
keep a large military force in the country, as by that 
means, we should obtain a ready sale for our corn and 
other produce, and have wherewith to pay. But now 
they are withdrawing their troops." As stanch friends 
to our country and its Government, we heard this man's 
very sensible remarks with concern, and wished, that 
means niight be devised, consistent with the just and be- 
nevolent disposition of our present administration, ta 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 237 

grant relief, and make the occupation of this land by the 
British, considered a blessing, and not a curse, as we 
have sometimes heard it called. 

We now returned to our encampment on the river, 
and found that Brother Schmitt had meanwhile proceed- 
ed with the baggage-wagon to the Chamtoos Wagendrift 
on Klein Revier, whither we immediately followed, and 
reached the ford about sunset. The farm-house was a 
miserable hovel, and could not afford a lodging to our 
party ; yet, as it lightened much, and threatened to rain, 
we were desirous of obtaining better shelter than the 
tent. After some search, we fixed upon a forsaken 
blacksmith's shop, consisting of two small rooms, one 
containing the forge and anvil, the other empty. We 
got them well swept, and put down our mattresses. 

Not feeling much disposed to sleep, I placed my desk 
upon the anvil, and, seated upon a wooden block, conti- 
nued writing, while my friends rested. It was a provi- 
dential circumstance that I remained awake. The door 
was made of rushes, fastened together with thongs, in a -fi| 
slender frame, and had no lock. The rushes did not 
reach to the top of the door-way, and I was twice dis- 
turbed by a cat, scrambling up from the outside, and 
jumping over into our dormitory. This, however, proved 
a slight disturbance. About midnight, the bull and other 
cattle broke out of the kraal, and the unruly beast came 
bellowing up to the door, which he began to push about 
with his horns. I was much alarmed, as very little force 
was required to throw it down, when we should have had 
a very troublesome guest in our quarters. Being afraid 
to face him in the dark, 1 made some noise within, when 
he took himself off, yet every now and then approaching 
in his perambulations. I therefore immediately fell to 
work, to make a fastening to the door, with a piece of 
iron, found in the forge, which I worked into the wall, 
and tied to the door with a strong thong. Yet, after all 
these precautions, I hardly ventured to lie down. Be- 
tween four and five in the morning, two thunder storms, 
with heavy rain, passed successively over us, and we 
were thankful for the shelter w^e had found. Thcvfo!- 



238 JOURNAL OF A 

lowed the course of the Chamtoos Revier from north to 
south. 

24th. The Klein Revier farm, mentioned above, as re- 
commended to me both by the Colonial Secretary, and 
the landdrost of Uitenhagen, as a place suitable for a 
missionary establishment, lies about two or three En- 
glish miles from the Chamtoos Wagendrift, in the hills, 
higher up the river. Though a farmer had applied for 
it, and it was therefore contrary to our views to take ad- 
vantage of his not having obtained a grant, yet I felt it 
my duty to go and look at it, both that it might not ap- 
pear as if we w^ere indifferent to the kindness that had 
dictated the offer, and that I might obtain more informa- 
tion on the spot, respecting the intentions of the present 
claimant. After breakfast, therefore, I rode with Bro- 
ther Schmitt and Marcus to the place, our host very ci- 
villy accompanying us. Brother Stein, and Lebrecht 
Aris followed on foot. We crossed the Klein Revier at 
two fords. The vale is full of bushes and large timber, 
and pleased us much. The hills on each side are not 
high, and covered with wood to their summits. Large 
thorn-bushes occupy the greatest part of the banks of the 
river. Tall Geelhoutboom trees and other ever-greens 
exhibited some fine forest scenery. As we approached the 
place, we met the farmer going with some Hottentots to 
cut down bushes, and open a better way from the drift. 
He sent his men on, ana returned with us. The dwell- 
ing-house was on a rising ground, and little better 
than a Hottentot bondhoek. A hut stood near it, and 
these two miserable tenements contained at present the 
whole family. The farnier's wife appeared to be a sen- 
sible and civil woman, and presented us with all her 
house afforded, sweet milk. The vale is not to be com- 
pared with that on the Witte Revier, either for extent, 
fertility, or beauty, but the Klein Revier is a clear, ever 
flowing, rapid stream. 

On our return, we were accompanied by the farmer, 
to whom, however, we did not explain the aim of our 
visit. The strata of red rocks, forming the western bank 
of the Chamtoos Revier, have a striking appearance, of 
Avhich, during our absence, Mr. Melville had made a 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 239 

drawing. We had to wait till noon, before the oxen 
were sent, according to order, to put us Ibrward on our 
journey, when we got well through the Wagondrift, the 
ford of the Chamtoos river, and the Soute Kloof, and 
passing by Mr. Simon Fereira's farm, arr-ived at night 
at a farm-house called the Ausilucht, (Emigration,) wliere 
we were accommodated with a chamber. Mr. Melvilh? 
went with the young farmer to the gardens, lying at a 
little distance, to hunt porcupines, which is done by 
night; but none made their appearance. 

25th. Before we set out, I took a walk with Mr, Mel- 
ville into the garden, where the dogs had killed one of 
these singular animals. We left this place at eight, called 
at Mr. Miller's farm, and provided ourselves with a sup- 
ply of necessaries. 

Between this and Essenbosch, we met Mr. Akkerraan, 
who returned with us, that he might not lose the bargain 
he proposed to himself, by selling us a spann of oxen, 
accordmg to a former oiler. By the way, we dined in a 
pleasant valley, under some trees. At Essenbosch we 
staid but a short time, to purchase some wheaten bread, 
and a rehbock antelope, shot by a Hottentot lad, for 
which he asked a dollar and a half. Brother Schmitt 
proposed to him to take a boschlemmer knife instead of 
the money, lest he should spend the latter in brandy, 
and lose all advantage of his day's work. Our Hotten- 
tots likewise urged him to take the knife, which, after 
long demur, he agreed to; but, still undetermined, fum- 
bled about, and among several knives, could not find 
one to suit his fancy, while his sheepish, suspicious looks, 
and confusion in examining the knives, allbrded much 
merriment to his countrymen. At last, he chose the worst, 
and sneaked off, with silent murmurs at not having turn- 
ed the rehbock into brandy. 

We had no time to pay a farewell-visit to the lady 
on the other side of the glen, (p. 189,) but after a tedious 
ride in the dark, along the Kromm Revier, and throu^I 



some deep ravines, reached a farm-house, pitched 
our tent near it, and enjoyed a quiet niglit's n^st. It 
lightened much in the east and north. 

2Gth. We set out before daybreak. It was a clear, 



210 JOURNAL OF A 

autumnal morning. The high peaked hills, to our leilt* 
had emerged from the dark mists, which surrounded 
them last night, and the sun broke forth with splendour. 
The farm we had just left was forsaken by the former 
possessor, who declared himself unable to pay the new 
duties, charges for measurement, and high quit rents. 
Another farm in the neighbourhood, was forsaken by the 
husband of the lady of Essenbosch, for the same reason. 
These effects of the present system seem to demand a 
revision of the mode of carrying it into execution, which 
so many farmers, in the interior, assert to be done, with- 
out due discrimination or knowledge of local circumstan- 
ces. We trust, that, as his Excellency the Governor is 
about to undertake a journey to the frontier, he will hear 
and judge for himself, how far these repeated complaints 
are well founded; for it is to be supposed, that as all 
innovation is generally resisted by uninstructed people, 
many may too soon have taken the alarm. 

After a pleasant ride through the Kromm Revier Val- 
ley, we reached Jagersbosch, Mr. Akkerman's farm, 
about nine o'clock. Mr. Melville had rode on to farmer 
Marcus, to procure oxen. 

27th. Mr. Akkerman's house was full of people. Some 
were sick, and every thing within the wretched rooms 
looked very uncomfortable. Sister Schmitt therefore 
prepared breakfast for us in front of the house. After 
some time, Mr. Akkerman's oxen arrived, and Brother 
Schmitt, assisted by our Hottentots, chose ten of them, 
for which, as they were picked, we paid what was asked, 
viz. two hundred and fifty dollars. Mr, Akkerman was 
satisfied to receive part of this sum in Gnadenthal knives, 
which, being a very saleable article, would leave him a 
further profit. The Hottentot, mentioned above, who 
had killed and skinned the tyger during our former visit, 
bad not forgotten my promise to purchase the skin, in 
case he tanned it properly. It was well done, and a 
beautiful skin. I gave the poor fellow the sum he asked 
and richly deserved. 

Lebrecht Aris being appointed driver of the new-pur- 
chased oxen, we set out. The road along the Kromm 
Revier is a succession of ups and downs, on a sloping 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 241 

bank, which, in some places, renders travelling danger- 
ous, on account of the sudden descent towards th \er. 
The scenery is, in many parts, singular, and a few spots 
appear fertile, especially where the vale widens. 

Mr. Mey's farm, our next station, laj at the head of 
the river, in a dreary glen. He is a German by birth. 
Mr. Melville was here, and having provided one spann 
of oxen, called to us to come down from the road, to see 
the place. The dwelling was miserable, with a car- 
penter's shop adjoining, but the people were friendly. 
No other spann arriving, we were obliged to employ the 
oxen we had purchased this morning. Among them 
w^ere two or three, which never before had submitted to 
the yoke. They now expressed their objections to serve 
the lords of the creation, in a manner that endangered 
the safety both of our wagons and persons. But here, 
the superior courage and skill of Hottentots, in the treat- 
ment of oxen, were manifest. They would not hear of 
permitting the unruly beasts quietly to follow, but, by 
dint of perseverance, at length brought them all to the 
yoke. Herein, they were assisted by the habits of the 
oxen themselves. Though they ran about, tossing their 
heads, and kicking furiously, and it sometimes seemed 
as if they would escape altogether, yet they were made 
to return, by driving two or three tame ones after them, 
whom they immediately joined ; w^hen, taking no particu- 
lar notice of the wild, and the tame ones being easily 
driven back to the wagon, the wild followed quietly, and 
were again caught, by passing a thong with a loop round 
their horns. Though they now threatened to run upon 
the person holding them, and more than once got loose, 
yet, by a repetition of the same stratagem, they were at 
length subdued, and stood still. When urged forward, 
feeling the yoke, they resisted so much, that the other 
spann was sent down to assist their refractory compa- 
nions, and after much hallooing, cracking of whips, and 
lashing, the wagons w^ere at length brought to the top 
of the hill. 

By this delay, we did not reach Ellandsfonteyn till 
long after sunset, but were received with civility by Mr. 

31 



2i2 JOURNx\L OP A 

Piet Fereira and his wife, and permitted to spread our 
bedding on the floor of the vorhaus, or hall. 

28th, The poor German farmer, Mey, having witness- 
ed the trouble we had with our oxen yesterday evening, 
of his own accord sent four tame, and, as they are here 
called, learned oxen, to our assistance, with which we 
proceeded, passing over the spot where, on the 29th of 
March, one of our wagons overturned. We remember- 
ed, with thankfulness, the merciful preservation then ex- 
perienced, and rejoiced with Brother Stein, that, except 
in some degree of weakness, he no longer felt the injury 
done to his arm. When we reached Olivier's farm, it 
was with difficulty that we prevailed on Mr. Mey to 
accept of some remuneration for the loan of his beasts. 
I gave him a certificate for two spanns, which he justly 
deserved, for, without his assistance, we should not have 
been able to proceed with our own oxen, without much 
trouble and delay. Fresh oxen being soon procured, 
we passed by two farms in the Lange Kloof. At one of 
them. Brother Schmitt and I endeavoured to gain en- 
trance, but a broad sheet of water prevented us. The 
people called out from the opposite side, desiring that 
we would come over with the wagons, but wishing to 
reach Kliphubel, before it grew dark, we thanked them 
for their kind offer, and pushed on as fast as our weary 
cattle would bear it. 

On our arrival, we met with a very dry reception. 
Card-playing occupied the attention of the family, and 
an officer of dragoons, contrary to the general practice 
of the military, bestowed no kind of attention upon his 
countrymen. No invitation was given, nor any assist- 
ance offered. Pitching our tent upon the werft could 
not well be refused, but we were left to get fuel where 
we could find it, and to cook our own victuals. Though, 
in general, we were most happy and independent in our 
tent, yet we could not but feel the affront as intended; 
and the night being very cold, it proved injurious to 
Sister Schmitt's health. Meanwhile, the Veldcornet's 
house rang with mirth and jollity. A miserable flute 
whistled in accompaniment to the heels of the merry 
party, the clatter of which disturbed our night's rest 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 243 

almost as much as the tournament performed by the 
bull and his associates at Engelbrecht's, in Bruntjes 
Hoogte. 

28th. While we were at breakfast, we had the ho- 
nour of a visit from our ungracious host. He came with 
his pipe in his mouth, and squatting down on the ground, 
commenced a conversation on various subjects. But he 
seemed principally to wish to know, whether we had 
found a place suitable for a settlement. He was told, 
that we had seen several, but fixed on none. He then 
surveyed the wagons, observed, that they were wel! 
constructed for a long journey, and made a great merit 
of putting us forward immediately, with two spanns of 
cows. His slaves and domestics, by his own order, 
durst not take any notice of, or assist us, and the En- 
glish officer afterwards pretended to say, that he had 
not known that Englishmen were on the werft, though 
he had spoken with both Mr. Melville and me. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Departure from KliphubeL Instance of persecution. Bru- 
tality of a boor. Avantur. Civility of Mr. Zondag and 
his family. Bush-cats. JVighfs lodging at Veldcornet 
Rendsberg'^s. Eseljagd'^s Revier. Hartebeest-hoiise at 
David Friers farm. Runaway slave. Delay at Great 
Dorn Revier. Unsuccessful attempt in surgery. Sajran'^s 
Revier. •Attaqua'^s Kloof. Caverns. Saffranskraal. 
German farmer and his baboon^ at Groote Pacrdekraal. 

We left Kliphubel about nine o'clock, and found the 
cows to perform their duty with great alacrity. As we 
were passing slowly over a hill, we saw a woman mak- 
ing towards us, across the heath. When she reached 
the wagons, she appeared alwiost convulsed with weep- 
ing, and we could scarcely pacify her, so as to make her 
speech intelligible. She said, that she was the most 
miserable of beings, a slave, and sold by the Veldcornet, 
whom we had just left, to a neighbouring boor- because 



244 JOURNAL OF A 

she went to hear the word of God. The boor himself 
was a riioderate man, but his wife a most inveterate 
enemj of the gospel, who beat her slaves and depend- 
ants, if tbej showed any disposition that way. That, 
hovi^ever. was not the worst, but her son and daughter- 
in-law, were hkewise slaves to the Veldcornet, and to 
be sold on account of their love of religion, especially as 
her son spoke to the other slaves. They were to be 
separated from each other, the husband being disposed 
of to one, and the wife to another farmer, living at a 
distance from each other; that the thoughts of it made 
her distracted, and she spent her time running to and 
fro among the bushes, crying to God for mercy, but that, 
if she, or any other slaves, were found kneehng behind a 
bush in prayer, they were sure to be unmercifully treated. 
We spoke to her in as consoling a manner as we could, 
encouraged her to persevere in crying to the Lord for de- 
liverance from such distress, and for the conversion of her 
mistress and other enemies of His word, and meanwhile 
to be faithful and diligent in her service. As she seemed 
to lay a great stress upon kneeling, and to think that the 
only posture of body in which prayer could be made 
acceptably, we told her, that our Saviour was every 
where and at all times present and ready to hear the cry 
that proceeded from the heart, whether she was at work, 
in the house, or field, sitting or standing, or in any other 
attitude, and that no authority or circumstance could 
prevent the heart from holding communion with God ; 
but that He had foretold His disciples, that they would 
be hated and persecuted for His name's sake. It must 
therefore be expected, and we have to look to Him alone, 
for that peace, which He promised to them in the midst 
of the tribulations of this world. The poor woman 
seemed to take comfort, and to be truly in earnest in 
seeking the salvation of her soul. By this circumstance, 
we gained some insight into the cause of our treatment 
last night, when we were shut out, as being engaged with 
missionary affairs, not to mention the inconvenience and 
disturbance which might have been occasioned to the 
hop, by the intrusion of such grave faces. We reaped, 
however, a \ery essential advantage from Mr. F.'s aver- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 245 

sion to such company, for he was the more ready to help 
us oflfhis premises, and his cows carried us, with great 
speed, to a farm belonging to a Mr. H. The master be- 
ing absent, we were very civilly treated by his black 
slave, and soon provided with tvvo spanns of oxen, to 
bring us forward to Mr. Zondag's farm, at Avantur. 

During the short time of our stay at Mr. H.'s misera- 
ble place, Mr. Melville had the unexpected pleasure of 
meeting with an officer in the Cape regiment, who had 
been his school-fellow. Strolling about the premises, I 
noticed a trap-flur, better built, and larger than any I had 
yet seen. This is a circular piece of ground, surrounded 
by alowwall, and made as hard as a threshing floor, in- 
to which the corn is put, and the grain trodden out by 
from ten to twenty or more horses, driven round it in a 
sharp trot. Whether this is a mode better calculated to 
secure the crop than threshing, or a barbarous, wasteful 
custom, founded on prejudice, the straw being thus de- 
stroyed and lost, I leave better judges to determine. 

All the other buildings in this farm were wretched huts, 
and the premises covered with filth, and the remnants of 
carcasses, as is too generally the case in this country. Yet 
the proprietor was possessed of what many English gen- 
tlemen cannot boast. He had been at the funeral of a 
neighbour's child, unfortunately burnt to death, and met 
us on the road in his state-wagon, drawn by six beautiful 
horses of equal size and colour, driven by himself In- 
stead of greeting us, he jumped off the box, and demand- 
ed of his black lad, what business he had to give us 
Vorspann. The poor slave had hardly time to reply, 
that he had acted conformably to his own commands, to 
furnish Vorspann in his absence, if ordered by the Veld- 
cornet, when he put himself into a furious rage, attended 
with hideous grimaces, so as to make himself truly ridicu- 
lous, and threatening what he would do to his slave, 
when he got home, mounted his box, without paying any 
respect to our party, and drove off. The poor slave was 
exceedingly terrified, told us, that his master was a cruel 
tyrant, and would certainly give him a hard flogging on 
his return, with the achter shambock, the thickest whip 
cut out of the hippopotamus skin, and used to beat the 



246 JOURNAL OF A 

shaft-oxen with. In passing, we called on the friendly 
family at Wellgelegen, who treated us with tea-water. 
Here we found a dark-coloured man, who travels about 
as a schoolmaster, to teach the farmers' children their 
letters and a little ciphering, spending a few weeks at a 
time at one place, then going to another, for the same 
purpose, there being no schools in the country. Of 
course, the proficiency made is very small, and hardly 
sufficient to qualify the scholars for the most common 
uses of reading, writing, and ciphering. To this want 
of instruction must be ascribed the general state of igno- 
rance prevailing, with few exceptions, among the inhabit- 
ants of the interior. The schoolmaster was a very inqui- 
sitive man, and a shrewd politician. 

By the specimens we had just seen of the behaviour of 
certain fanners in the Lange Kloof, we augured but un- 
favourably of the reception we were likely to meet with 
at Avantur, and afraid that we should be obliged to 
spend a cold, windy night, in our tent ; but herein we 
'were most agreeably disappointed. Nothing could ex- 
ceed the cordial welcome we experienced from Mr. 
Zondag. He stood like an ancient patriarch before his 
door, and as w^e walked up to the house, held out 
his hand, inviting us in the most friendly manner, to 
enter, and make his house our home. His wife was 
worthy of him, and in the kindest manner received Sis- 
ter Schmitt and the whole party. Perhaps their friend- 
liness and hospitality was rendered the more conspi- 
cuous and gratifying, in contrast with the savage con- 
duct of those we had left; but the general behaviour 
of the Zondags towards all persons in the house, prov- 
ed them to have benevolent dispositions. The children, 
who were yet young, seemed to partake of the vir- 
tues of their parents, and behaved with unaffected 
good-will and confidence towards us. Two dragoons, 
entering the room, came up to us, shook hands, and, 
in lively terms, expressed their joy to see English faces, 
and hear their own language spoken. They were civil, 
well-bred young men. After much agreeable conver- 
sation, we were entertained by looking over a large 
Dutch bible, in folio, admirably well printed, and full 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 247 

of good cuts, which was valued as the chief jewel in 
the family. Little Peter, a favourite boy, was employed 
to read some portions of its contents, which he did 
well, but the want of schools in the country was much 
lamented by the parents. That we might be the bet- 
ter accommodated, Mr. and Mis. Zondag, unknown to 
us, gave up their own room, and retired into the 
dragoons' house to sleep. The latter went into the 
garret. 

29th. We seemed in no great hurry to leave so 
agreeable a mansion, and did not set off till half past 
nine. Meanwhile all kind of business was carrying 
on. The slaves, and others wanted Gnadenthal knives, 
which brother Schmitt furnished. A dragoon gave me 
the skin of a bush-cat, shot a few days ago. This is 
a fierce, but beautiful animal, about three feet and a 
half long. It has a rougher skin, and a shorter tail 
than the tyger. Its general colour is a brownish-yel- 
low. From the forehead along the back, three jet- 
black streaks run towards the tail ; the sides are mark- 
ed with large single spots of the same colour ; the tail 
has five black rings, and each ear two streaks. Broad 
black bands descend a little way, in curved lines, down 
the shoulders. It generally climbs trees, watching for 
some unfortunate antelope or other creature to approach 
for shade, or near enough to be sprung upon. Perceiv- 
ing that I was much pleased with the skin, Mr. Zondag's 
nephew brought me another still more beautiful, and 
well dressed. I inquired of the other dragoon how I 
might reward his comrade for his generosity, for he had 
declined receiving any remuneration. He replied, that 
as he was " a great writer," but could get no paper, and 
was obliged to write on any odd scrap he could find on 
the premises, some paper would be most acceptable. I 
gave him half a quire of foolscap, and a few pencils and 
pens, with which he seemed extremely delighted. Sister 
Schmitt got here a supply of butter, apples, and other 
necessaries, and we left this hospitable family with ex- 
pressions of mutual esteem and affection. We were also 
supplied with excellent oxen, and Marcus, without much 



m 



248 JOURNAL OF A 

use of the whip, brought them frequently, on even road, 
into a sharp trot. 

Our next stage was Jacomima Barkhuis's farm, on 
Kierboom's Revier. The family received us kindly, as 
old acquaintances, and as the old lady pleaded inability 
to furnish oxen, Mr. Zondag had permitted us, in that 
case, to proceed with his spanns to the house of the 
Veldcornet Michael Rendsberg, at Gaensekraal. We 
again entered the premises with some suspicion, lest we 
might be left to spend a cold night on the werft, but 
though the house was full of company, we met with a 
cordial welcome. The Veldcornet and his wife were 
remarkably attentive to us. Coffee was served, and the 
evening spent in lively and agreeable conversation be- 
tween thoge who could speak Dutch. 

An English dragoon, who had arrived from Kliphubel, 
told us, that the manner in which we were received in 
that place, had given much offence to our brave country- 
men, but they durst not show their good-will towards 
us, without their officer's leave. From hence, we in- 
tended to go by the new-made road across the mountains 
to George, but heard, to our sorrow, that the landdrost, 
Mr. Van Kervel, had gone to Plettenberg Bay. We 
therefore resolved to take the nearer road, by Attaqua's 
kloof, and sent Johannes to George to bring the oxen we 
had left in that place to the Gowritz river, where we 
should join the main road. 

30th. After breakfast. Brother Schmitt was requested 
by Mrs. Rendsberg to deliver a discourse to their slaves 
and Hottentots, which he did on the words of our Sa- 
viour's parable; ^'' Go out into the highways and hedges^ 
and compel them to come in.^'^ He addressed both the 
Christians and heathen present, in a serious and impres- 
sive manner, for which the ladies in the family more 
particularly expressed many thanks. The oxen fur- 
nished here were small and weak, and brought us for- 
ward but very slowly. We found ourselves encom- 
passed with mountains of singular shapes, but, like the 
country through which we passed, barren in the extreme. 
Our dinner was cooked on the banks of the Eselsjagd 
river, (or Zebra-hunting river,) which at present con- 



VISIT Tp SOUTH AFRICA. 219^ 

sisted only of a few stagnant pools. After quitting this 
place, we entered a narrow glen, bordered by ledges of 
rocks, bushes of various kinds, and Wageboom-trees, 
growing luxuriantly wherever any soil was left to sup- 
port them. The large fragments of white quartz, co- 
vered in some places with vermilion-coloured moss, and 
the diversified tints, produced by the layers and masses of 
ferruginous sand-stone, intermixed with the foliage of the 
trees and bushes, gave to the whole a picturesque ap- 
pearance. The road was very rough, till we emerged 
from the kloof and got into the Karroo-field, so called 
from its resemblance to the great Karroo. We had now 
the mountains on the north side of the Oliphant's river 
in view, with other ranges of higher or lower hills. 

After a tedious ride through a flat country, covered 
with rhinoceros-bushes, and here and there with aloes 
and Wageboom, we arrived at a farm called Plaisir, 
where the Veldcornet had advised us to stop, if it were 
too late to reach Mr. Heyns's farm on Dorn Kevier. As 
it was a light evening, we determined to proceed ; and 
crossing the river, entered a kloof between low, heathy 
hills. It lightened much, and the road was very uneven ; 
and perceiving, that we could not well reach Dorn 
Revier, we despatched old Leonhard to a farm called 
Klippedrift, to announce our intention of honouring the 
proprietor, David Frie, with our company. The road 
to it was dreadfully bad, and in crossing a narrow ra- 
vine, with a deep brook at the bottom, we were in some 
danger of oversetting, but the good people came out 
with lights, to show us the way to the house. The far^ 
mer immediately gave us the only room he could spare, 
which was at one end of what is called a hartebeest 
house, being a roof, put upon a wall about two feet in 
height. But the building, though very small, was new, 
and clean, with two bedsteads in it. Of these Brother 
and Sister Schmitt occupied one, I the other, arwi Mr. 
Melville the floor. Brother Stein put up with the only 
vacant spot remaining, under the bedsteads. But we 
were thankful to be under good cover. It lightened in- 
cessantly; and during the night the s.torm passpd over 
us, with loud thunder. 

32 



250 JOtJR^'AL OF A 

May 1st. We rose early, the weather havino; cleareiJ 
up, that we might reach Mr. Heyns's on Dorn Revier to 
breakfast. A runaway slave, chained to a post in the 
farmer's kitchen, was this morning sent forward to the 
drosty for punishment. He belonged to a place at some 
distance. In this manner, deserters are passed, from 
one farm to the other, till they reach the prison. We 
expressed to him our pity, and Brother Schmitt gave him 
some good advice, but he seemed quite stupified. The 
family behaved with great civility, and presented Sifter 
Schmitt with a fine tortoise, and some eggs. 

A pleasant morning's ride brought us to Great Dorn 
Revier; but no Vorspann having arrived, we were de- 
tained here all day. We found here a pleasant family, 
and spent the day in writing, drawing, and other useful 
employments. In the neighbourhood of this place, es- 
pecially on some rocky hills to the south, many wild 
horses are yet seen. 1 obtained the skin of one, in bar- 
ter for some gunpowder. A Koodoo-skin was likewise 
purchased for five rix-dollars. They are used for 
lashes, and sold at a much higher price near the Cape. 

Brother Stein had here an opportunity of serving some 
of the family with medical advice, bled a black female 
slave, and attempted to extract a tooth, which had lono; 
tormented the mistress. But no sooner had he brought 
his instrument to bear upon it, than she pushed him 
away, leaving the tooth half-drawn ; nor would she suf- 
fer him to finish his work, the bleeding of the lacerated 
gum having brought her some relief No persuasion 
from her wiser husband could prevail, to let him make a 
second attempt. 

Though the Vorsf)ann system was sometimes attended 
with unforeseen delays, we generally contrived to make 
good use of our time, nor did the people at this place 
seem to wish to get rid of us. In the evening, the light- 
ning was vivid all round the horizon. Our dormitory 
was a lumber-room, with a mud-floor, where we enjoyed 
a quiet night. 

2d. After breakfast, we were glad to see two spanns 
of oxen arrive for our use. The country through which 
Ave passed, was one continued waste, thickly covered 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 251 

With plants and bushes. Some species of the thorn-bush 
and speckboom were new to me. In two hours, we ar- 
rived at the Veldcornet Wolfran's farm, but made no 
stay. He came out to us, and gave us a letter to the 
farmer at Saffran's Revier to furnish us with fresh cattle, 
as his were too voung and weak to take us through At- 
taqua's Kloof. But when we arrived at that place, the 
farmer pretended, that he had no oxen at home, though 
the dragoons informed us, that he had enough (or 
five spanns, but had driven them across the river, ag 
soon as he saw our wagons coming down the hill. He 
seemed to be completely under the control of his wile, a 
woman of a most surly temper, who, when her more hos- 
pitable daughter set a plate of apples before us, snatched 
them angrily away, and would hardly allow us to eat our 
own bread and butter under her roof. Mr. Barrow must 
have encountered many of that description, when he 
drew his picture of the African boors and their ladies. 
We met with but few, for, in general, they treated us 
with civility. 

Near this place, I found some very singular fossils in 
iron-stone, resembling screws, and in several places, the 
stones were covered with a bituminous crust. 

We perceived now, that the best way would be, quiet- 
ly to move on, and to endeavour to work our way 
through the kloof, with our weary oxen, as well as we 
could. Having reached the first steep ascent, we left 
the wagons, and, by a foot-path, joined the road on the 
other side of the hill. Here we rested long, before the 
wagons overtook us. Some curiows caverns attracting- 
our attention, we entered them. By some foot-marks in 
the sand, we perceived, that they afforded retreat to 
tyger-cats. They also provided shelters for travellers 
in rainy weather, there being here an outspann-place, 
and fireplaces made under the overhanging rocks. For- 
getting the caution I had prescribed to myself, when I 
touched a tarantula spider, on the Zuurberg, I lifted up 
a stone to examine it, and saw a young scorpion lying 
under it. I was thankful that I had escaped putting my 
hand upon it. Finding it impossible to reach any habir 
tation to-night, the weather bejog very dark and cloudy, 



252 JOURNAL OF A 

and seeing a fire on the mountain, we made towards it. 
It had been kindled by Lebrecht Aris, who had brought 
our purchased oxen thus far, and was preparing to rest 
here. We put up our tent, and though somewhat an- 
noyed by passing mists, commended ourselves to the 
protection of God, and spent a very quiet night in this 
wild place. 

3d. Brother Stein, thinking the morning about to 
dawn, at half past three roused us out of a sound sleep, 
and announced the day. Though unnecessarily disturb- 
ed, we took advantage of it, and prepared for our depar- 
ture. When it grew light, we saw high peaked moun- 
tains to our left, and found ourselves in a romantic situ- 
ation. It was six o'clock before we set off. As we pro- 
ceeded, we were surrounded by rocky eminences of con- 
siderable height, and the views became still more inte- 
resting, especially when we reached the highest part of 
the kloof, where the mountains exhibited very singular 
scenery. 

Mr. Melville and I were so long engaged in drawing, 
that we could not overtake the wagons, and were obliged 
to walk the whole way to the next farm, a distance of 
little less than ten English miles. Mr. Rutter, the pro- 
prietor of the Groote Paerdekraal, is a German by birth. 
His house lies about a field's length from the road, and 
both he and his wife received us most civilly. Indeed, 
our visit seemed to put him into high spirits. Though 
seventy-five years old, he was remarkably strong and 
lively, and full of merry jokes. I felt at first much fa- 
tigued, but soon recovered. Our host came from the 
neighbourhood of Gotha in Saxony, and had been pre- 
sent at the building of the settlement of the Brethren in 
that neighbourhood, called Neudietendorf, of which he 
gave us an entertaining account, according to the notions 
he had formed of its institutions, though not quite like 
those of Madam de Stael. He related also some part of 
his own history, and the manner in which he had been 
decoyed at Amsterdam by a Dutch crimp, and brought at 
last as a soldier to the Cape. Our having noticed a 
tame baboon on his promises, led him to tell us the fol- 
lowing story : Doing duty at the castle at Capetown, he 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 253 

kept one of these comical animals for his amusement. 
One evening, some boys and girls entered the place where 
it was confined, and played with it, unknown to him, till 
it broke its chain. In the night, climbing up into the bel- 
fry, it began to play with and ring the bell. Immedi- 
ately the whole place was in an uproar : some great 
danger was apprehended. Many thought, that the cas- 
tle was on fire, others, that an enemy had entered the 
bay, and the soldiers began to turn out, when it w^as dis- 
covered, that his baboon had caused the disturbance. 
On the following morning, a court-martial was held, when 
Cape justice dictated, that w^iereas Master Rutter's ba- 
boon had unnecessarily put the castle into a state of 
alarm, its master should receive fifty Jashes : ^' but,'' ad- 
ded he, " among these mountains, and under British go- 
vernment, I hope, that my baboon and I may make as 
much noise as we please, without either of us endanger- 
ing his back." 

Brother Schmitt, struck with the general levity of thfs 
honest man's manner, began to speak seriously with him 
about his advanced age, and observed, that though he 
was blessed with such good health and flow of spirits, it 
was high time to think of the approach of death. He 
replied, that as to religion, he understood more about it 
than all the people that travelled that way, and would 
immediately enter the lists with him, to prove, that the 
Lutheran faith was the right one* Having brought three 
or four quarto volumes from an adjoining room, he de- 
clared, that he had read them all through, and by them 
could settle any dispute. Brother Schmitt declined all 
dispute, and wished only to impress upon his mind the 
necessity of true conversion of heart and assurance of 
acceptance with God, through the merits of Jesus Christ. 
But the old man either would, or could not understand 
him, and turned the conversation to other subjects. 

Our cattle were completely fatigued, and Mr. Rutter 
obliged us much, by sending for two spanns, and putting 
us forward, w^ithout an express order from the Veldcor- 
net. The road from the Groote Paerdekraal led through 
a very rough cou-ntry, to the Haagekraal. That part of 
the mountains which will admit of any verdure, is well 



254 JOURNAL OF A 

covered with it. Wageboom is frequent, and in other 
places, the sugar-bush, being now in full flower, adorned 
the slopes of the hills, with great splendour. At six we 
reached Haagekraal, and though the proprietors, Mr. 
and Mrs. Meyer, were not at home, their son gave us a 
hearty welcome. The night turned out windy and rainy, 
and we were again thankful to be under shelter. 

Our driver Marcus, who had expressed much joy at 
our resolution to pass this way, as it would give him an 
opportunity of once more seeing his aged father, who 
was a hundred and four years old, was, to our sorrow, 
disappointed ; being informed, that the old man and hi$ 
wife were gone to see his sick sister, at the missionary 
institution at Hoogte Kraal, near George ; but he spent 
the evening with another of his sisters, and her four 
children. 



CHAPTER XVL 

Haagekraal Account of Wild horses. Gowritz Revier. 
Meeting with Johannes from George. Baboons. Irish 
hospitality. Klein Vat Revier. Turbulent housewife. 
Pass the farms of Messrs. Du Preez and Lombard. The 
family at Schlangen Revier going " op de tocht.'^^ Bunte- 
bock antelopes. Dangerous ford. Reach Zwellendam. 
Church-affairs. Mr. Koster^ an independent missionary. 
Heavy ruins. Ferry over the Breede Revier. Mr. Hei- 
mane's account of icild Buffaloes. Manner of crossing the 
river. Mr. Van Helsland. The plant Vlachdorn. Ar- 
rival at Gnadenthal. 

May 4th. The Haagekraal farm lies pleasantly on a 
green, surrounded by low hills, and watered by a large 
brook. The proprietor is brother to Mr. Meyer of Har- 
tenbosch, near Mossel Bay, with whom we found such 
pleasant accommodations. 

We met here the son of our merry host at Groote 
Paerdekraal. Speaking of the singular situation of his 
father's house, he told some curious anecdotes of the 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 255 

wild horses in the Attaqaa's Kloof. He once followed 
a young filly of that description, and had nearly come 
up with it, when he was charged with great fury by the 
wild stallion, and obliged to quit his horse. The stallion 
seized the horse by the mane with his teeth, and threw 
him down ; birt, satisfied with his victory, ran off wMth 
the filly. Both the wild horse, and even the quagga, 
are a match for the tame horse, but do not easily corh- 
nience an attack. There are also ellands in the moun- 
tains ; but, besides rehbocks and a few bushbocks, very 
little game is seen in the plain. ^ 

The rain, which still continued to fall now and then 
•in drizzling showers, made the roads so slippery, that 
the oxen could scarcely drag the wagons up any ascent^ 
and w^e were thankful that this weather had not over- 
taken us while we were yet in the kloof. After a ride 
of three hours through a dull and naked country, we 
descended into a glen called HunyklifF Kloof. On an 
eminence to the left, lies a farm, belonging to a German of 
the name of Krieg. He received us kindly, and insisted 
on our partaking of his dinner, which was just ready to 
be served up. Never have I rehshed a dish of bean-soup 
more than in this forlorn place. To me it was quite 
new. This man had travelled through a great part of 
the north of Europe, and was at length persuaded by 
some crimps at Hamburg, to enter into the Dutch East- 
India Company's service. He described the situation of 
their sailors to have been most deplorable, and the atten- 
tion paid to their health and comfort so deficient, that no 
less than one hundred and forty men had died on board 
the ship he served in, during the voyage. He was thank- 
ful to be released by being left at the Cape in the sick- 
house ; and by degrees recovering, his industry put him 
in possession of this erf^ a name given to a small lot of 
ground, not being a complete farm. I purchased of him 
a hat, made by one of his slaves, of a Water-plant called 
palmite, which was an excellent piece of workmanship. 
We left this hospitable cottage about two o'clock, and 
continued our route through the glen to the Gowritz 
river. Brother Schmitt, Stein^ and I, walked to the 
farm-house, about a musket shot from the road, and 



^56 JOURNAL OF A. 

found a friendly family at dinner, who immediately in-^ 
vited us to partake of their humble meal, but we had 
dined. They seemed to be poor people, and the object 
of our visit was not attained. We could purchase neither 
butter, fowls, eggs, nor a spann of oxen. The latter 
were dearer by five dollars per head than in Uitenhagen 
district. On reaching the banks of the river, we over- 
took Lebrecht Aris with our new purchase, and on the 
river side, saw Johannes coming across the heath with 
the oxen left at George. 

He brought me a most obliging letter from Mr. Van 
Kervel, regretting his absence in Plettenberg Bay, and 
desiring, that if we returned by George, we would con- 
sider his house as our home. This he had left with the 
secretary, Mr. Stopforth, to be delivered to me at my 
expected arrival at George. The cattle-keeper had 
suffered our Gnadenthal oxen to stray, and Johannes 
was obliged to follow five of them as far as Kayman's 
Gat. Not far from us, on the steep bank of the river, be- 
tween twenty and thirty baboons, large and small, sat 
watching our movements. Marcus approached towards 
them, cracking his long whip, when the old dams took up 
their young, some in their mouths, others on their backs, 
and all scrambled up the steep with astonishing swiftness. 
Some had one young one in their mouth, and another 
sitting on their backs. 

The shores of the Gowritz river are covered with 
bushes, for about two miles in breadth. Many large 
aloes mixed with, and rising above them, showed their 
magnificent radiant crown of scarlet flowers to much ad- 
vantage. In the evening, by moonlight, we reached Mr. 
Lombard's farm, where we meant to take up our night's 
lodging. We went to the house, in which we heard 
laughing, clapping of hands, and other tokens of merri- 
ment. Our humble knock was often repeated, before it 
procured us admission. Now general silence ensued. 
After giving a proper account of ourselves, we requested 
to know, whether we might have a room to sleep in, 
which was answered in the affirmative, yet with hesita- 
tion enough to prove, that we were not welcome guests. 
This was also plainly to be traced in the countenances of 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA« 



257 



the women, who did not speak a word, but eyed us with 
fallen looks, as intruders, spoiling sport, and perhaps dis- 
turbing some family festivity. Hearing, therefore, that 
the Veldcornet's house was only one hour's distance, and 
the moon shining bright, we determined to leave the 
merry party to enjoy their frolics, and drove off. The 
women could not dissemble their joy at our departure^ 
but dismissed us with a hearty horse-laugh. 

We reached the Veldcornet's place about half past 
nine, and accidentally stopped at the dwelling of his part- 
ner, an Irishman, Mr. John Miller. Late as it was^ he 
and his wife rose, and did every thing in their power to 
show that we were welcome. Milk, dried peaches, 
eggs, and cold meat, were provided, and an empty room 
appropriated for our sleeping-place. Irish hospitality 
was exerted in full vigour, even here in South Africa; 
and if some of the Africans themselves were inoculated 
with it, it would do them no harm* 

5th. After a quiet night's rest, we found oxen provi- 
ded by the Veldcornet, got breakfast, paid a visit to the 
latter in his own house, and procured several articles of 
provision for ourselves and our Hottentots. Our Irish 
host left nothing undone, that he thought would be a 
benefit to us. He has lived twenty-five years in this 
country. 

The mountains present here a very magnificent out- 
line. They are crowned with rocks of singular forms. 
Nothing particular occurred, till we reached the KafTre 
Kuyls Revier, where we halted on its banks. Some of 
us crossed the river, to visit the farmer, but he was ab- 
sent, and his farm and mill in dirty plight. From hence, 
passing by the farm of Mi\ Cobus Du rreez, we hastened 
to the Veldcornet's place on the Klein Vat Revier. Our 
reception by the men was civil, but the women behaved 
towards Sister Schmitt and our whole party with de- 
termined coolness. The mistress of the house had a 
most stentorian voice, and in ordinary conversation kept 
up a continual bawl. As the Veldcornet's brother pos- 
sessed the same strength of lungs, the uproar was great, 
while she at one table, and he at another, were exerting 
their utmost powers to entertain their friends. It was 

33 



2j8 journal of a 

a novel scene, and we retired into our chamber, stunned 
with the noise ; but as it blew and rained hard all night, 
we were thankful for a room, even in an inhospitable 
dwelling. 

6th. When we rose in the morning, no notice was 
taken of us. Sister Schmitt, for once, did not succeed, 
by her conciHating manners, in winning the affections of 
the turbulent housewife. The dragoons, quartered here, 
had a miserable hole to sleep in, and described the 
Veldcornet's dislike of the English and of missionaries 
to be very great. 

Oxen having been ordered at the next station, we em- 
ployed our two spanns, both of which had arrived during 
the night, to convey us thither. The Hottentots had 
again some trouble to make our young oxen submit to 
the yoke, but managed it with their usual dexterity. 
Wheii subdued, they behaved well, and notwithstanding 
the rain had made the road, which was a greasy clay^ 
almost as slippery as ice, they brought us, about noon, 
to the farm of our old friend, Mr. P. Du Preez. By the 
way, we remembered our breakfast in the vale of v«U 
tures, and several pleasant and useful conversations, 
which passed between us, about two months ago. We 
found a large party at the house, but not the worthy fa- 
ther of the family. His son received us kindly, and we 
were invited to dinner. The parents were gone to Zvvel- 
lendam, to attend the sacrament. 

A report having been spread, that the rivers had 
swollen, we hastened to cross the Duivenhoeks Revier, at 
Mr. Lombard's farm, which we did without any trouble. 
Calling on our old friend, Mr. Lombard, he and his fami- 
ly used all their eloquence to prevail upon us to spend the 
night at their house, but as it was yet early, and feeling 
impatient to get home, we made but a short stay; and 
passing by the next farm, reached a place on the Schlan- 
gen Revier after sunset, to which we repaired for lodg- 
ings, the night being cold. 

The master of the house, having purchased a quantity 
of arrack from the wreck of the Arniston East-Indiaman, 
stranded on the coast near Cape Aguillas, was about to 
set off in the morning, on a trip into the interior, and to 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 259 

Graaf Rejnet, to dispose of it, in barter lor oxen and 
other articles of trade. Thej call this, going op de tocht. 
Two wagons were ready packed, into which the family 
had retreated, to be ready to start early in the morning. 
The house, therefore, ^^as at our service, and, indeed, but 
just large enough to hold us, without the family; for, be- 
sides a little dark kitchen, in which lay tw^o or three 
slaves, it had only two rooms, not much larger than clo- 
sets. William Sluiter's psalm-book lying on a shelf, and 
an old pewter coffee-pot, appeared to be the only move- 
ables left in the house; for the few articles, which serve 
them at home, were also their travelling equipage. We 
did not see one of the family, to thank them for the use of 
their house, as they were yet fast asleep in their wagons, 
when we set out, before daybreak. 

7th. We passed through a country, where formerly 
that beautiful antelope, the buntebock, was found in great 
numbers. The destruction made among them has caused 
the Governor to prohibit the shooting of them, under a 
penalty of five hundred rix-dollars. They are therefore 
again multiplying, and we saw several of them, not far 
from the road. They are very stately-looking animals. 
Ostriches also made their appearance, and were followed, 
but without success. 

The mountains, to our right, being by degrees disen- 
cumbered of clouds, afforded us a most agreeable pros- 
pect. About two o'clock, we reached Mr. Buissini's 
farm on the Bueffeljagd's Revier, and hoped to have been 
able to get to Zwellendam that night ; but the river had 
swollen, and was not fordable. The people treated us 
with civility, and we spent the evening in a variety of 
useful employments. Mr. Melville, however, anxious to 
get home, and to meet his .family as soon as possible, left 
us here, swam across the river with his horse, and pro- 
ceeded through Zwellendam to Gnadenthal. The 
wolves howled dreadfully, and we were afraid, lest our 
oxen, running loose on the waste, might be attacked in 
the night ; but on the 

8th, Early, they were all brought safe to the yojie. 
On examination, the river had fallen sufficiently to allow 



260 JOURNAL OF A 

US to venture to ford it. For about a quarter of a mile 
in breadth its banks are covered with thorn, and other 
bushes. 

Every thing likely to suffer by wet being put upon the 
seatsof the wagons, we entered the river. The passage 
is not easily found by persons not acquainted with its bed, 
as, unless an island in the midst of the stream is doubled 
on the right side, there is danger of getting into deep 
holes and oversetting. We were rather under some ap- 
prehension, as to the strength of our cattle. The Gna- 
denthal oxen in the baggage-wagon w^ere weak, and the 
pew spann young, and not used to cross so large a river, 
the stream of which was very rapid and strong. Mar- 
cus also, having once, in crossing the Bueifeljagds Revier, 
at this very place, overset, and lost seven oxen, express- 
ed some fears ; but, by God's mercy, we reached the op- 
posite shore in safety. Poor Rambler, our faithful dog, 
who had been our companion and pet during this whole 
journey, happened to be left behind, but swam across, 
following the wagons by the same circuitous course round 
the island. For this exertion, he was rewarded with a 
larger portion of meat than usual. The weather con- 
tinuing fair, w^e much enjojed the view of the Zwellen- 
dam range of mountains, with their peaked, square, and 
round tops, deep gullies, and w^oody kloofs, which ap- 
peared to great advantage, illumined by a bright morn^ 
ing sun. 

About noon we arrived at the drosty. The landdrost 
and his lady received us w^ith their wonted kindness, 
and, by their hospitality, made us feel quite at home with 
them. 

After dinner, we accompanied Mr. Buissini on a visit 
to the clergyman, lately appointed to this living, who 
but lately arrived from Holland. With him we went to 
see the church. It is a convenient building, in form of 
a cross, without a steeple. The organ, being but small, 
and out of repair, stood in the vestry. Government 
have not as yet done much towards the support of the 
ecclesiastical establishment in this colony, of which many 
complain, thinking it neither consistent with their usual 
liberality, nor with that union, which, under British do^ 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 261 

minion, exists between church and state. I believe 
it would tend much to concihate, and stop the mouths of 
the disaffected, if the Government at home should think 
fit to authorize more assistance to be given towards its 
maintenance. 

In the evening:, Brother Schmitt was desired to deliver 
a discourse to the Hottentots and slaves belonging to 
the family; which he did, much to their edification. 
They expressed their gratitude in lively terms. The 
moon shone bright till midnight, when, most unexpect- 
edly, a storm of wind arose, black clouds covered the 
mountains, and the w^eather underwent a total change. 

9th. Our generous host and hostess insisted upon our 
taking an English breakfast with them, before we left 
Zwellendam, though we felt rather in haste to get across 
the Breede Revier, before the heavy rain had swelled 
its waters. 

Having received every possible mark of attention from 
the landdrost and his lady, w^e took leave about ten 
o'clock. In passing, we called upon Mr. Koster, who 
went out as a missionary under the direction of the Mis- 
sionary Society in London, and had been both at Bethels- 
dorp and Latakkun; but afterwards, with a view to a 
more independent maintenance, commenced business in 
this place as an apothecary and surgeon, and now sup^ 
ports himself and his family with credit : at the same 
time holding meetings with the Hottentots and slaves, 
and endeavouring to do the work he was called to, 
though no longer directed and supported by the Society. 

It rained now so hard, that we made all haste to reach 
the Breede river. It is crossed by a ferry. The cattle, 
all but the shaft oxen, being unyoked, are driven into 
the river, and swim across. On landing, the road was 
rendered so slippery by the rain, that, with every exer- 
tion, ten oxen could not drag the wagon up the steep as^ 
cent, but frequently fell down. Both spanns were neces- 
sary to bring each wagon to the level. No attention 
seems to be paid to the road, which might very easily 
be cut down, so as to make the approach to the water 
more convenient. In the evening, we reached a farm 
near the Sonderend. belonging to a Mr. Heiman, where 



262 JOURNAL OF A 

we met with a hospitable reception, being recommended 
by the landdrost. Our host had formerly been in the in- 
terior, and speaking of the wild buiFalde, mentioned a 
singular stratagem, practised by that fierce animal, 
when hunted in the woods. It runs forward, till it is 
out of sight. The huntsman follows its l^rack, assured 
that the animal is before him. Meanwhile, entering the 
underwood, it returns part of the way, under cover of 
the bushes, waiting in ambush for its unwary pursuer, 
who finds himself suddenly attacked in flank, and some- 
times loses his life in the conflict. 

10th. We crossed the place, where, on the 7th of 
March, we had suffered so much from the heat, as to 
make us call it the Hot Outspann, got fresh oxen at 
Veldcornet Van Eckstein's, and reached the ford about 
two o'clock. The water was too deep to pass through 
it. The wagons having been emptied of their loading, 
and empty casks placed within, to buoy them up, they 
were floated across. The oxen swam, and the travellers 
and baggage went over in a small boat. The weather 
favoured us, and we reached Mr. Van Helsland's hospi- 
table mansion in the afternoon, without any harm to our 
goods by water or rain. His lady was gone to Cape- 
town, but we spent a very agreeable evening in his com- 
pany. 

11th. Rising early, we walked for some time about 
the premises. The mountains present themselves here in 
all their grandeur. Mr. Van Helsland made me at- 
tentive to a singular plant, called Vlachdorn, or 
Flat-thorn. Its leaves lie horizontally, close to the 
ground, forming a kind of star. They are studded 
with small thorns or prickles. From the centre is- 
sues a naked stem, ordinarily about a foot in length, 
with a small flower. Its root, like the roots of many 
plants and bushes in this country, is disproportionately 
thick, and strikes deep into the ground, like a carrot. A 
decoction of it is considered an efficient remedy against 
the stranguary in cattle, a distemper of which many die, 
at a season of the year when a certain herb, ripening 
among the common grass, is supposed to be the cause of 
it. Brother Schmitt knew it, as used by the Hottentots 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 263 

in the cure of similar disorders in man, but Mr. Van 
Helsland told us, that he had saved twenty oxen last 
year, who must otherwise have died of that terrible 
disorder. 

About half past nine, we left Bock Revier, and pro- 
ceeded with Mr. Eckstein's oxen to a place beyond Har- 
tebeestkraal, where we again met our own. The moun- 
tains increase in singularity of shape, and picturesque com- 
binations, the nearer we approach to Gnadenthal. When 
we bad arrived in the neighbourhood of Mrs. Giebeler's 
farm, we saw about a hundred Hottentots on foot and on 
horseback, coming to meet us, headed by the missionaries 
Leitner and Lemmerz, with Mr. and Mrs. Melville and 
two children. It was truly affecting to hear the ex- 
pressions of sincere joy and gratitude for our safe return, 
which burst upon us from old and young ; and we all 
joined in humble thanks to God, our Saviour and Pro- 
tector, whose mercies unto us during the whole journey, 
had been every morning new. About three o'clock we 
entered Gnadenthal, and the renewed impression made 
upon my mind, by the view of this charming place, ac- 
companied by all the reflections on its origin, aim, and 
progress, filled my eyes again with tears of gratitude to 
God, for such a visible display of his mercy and power. 
While we were at dinner, a large company of Hottentots 
assembled before the dining-room, and sung a hymn of 
praise to the Lord, for having brought us safe home 
again. In the usual evening-service, the whole congre- 
gation joined in our thanksgivings. 



264 JOURNAL OF A 



CHAPTER XVIL 

Gnadenthal. Account of Peter Batje. Hottentots^ mode of 
tanning. Appeal in behalf of the poor. Mr. Melville'^s 
plan of Gnadenthal. Regulations proposed by the Hot- 
tentots for the prevention of disorder. Appointment of 
overseers. Approval of JUr. Fraiienfelder^ deputy land- 
drost of Caledon. Mr. Melville and Schmitfs return to 
the Cape. Recovery of a long-lost parcel of letters. 
Statutes of the congregation. Walks about the settlement. 
Instance of discipline. The Lord'^s Supper on Whitsun- 
day. Remarks on the Bi^ethren^s manner of preaching. 
Expression of affection by the Hottentots. The Cutlery. 
Account of Philippus Appell. A Hottentofs attempt to 
obtain the captaincy of Hesqua tribe. Conversation with 
Captain Koopman about Hottentot'^ s Land. Prepare to 
leave Gnadenthal. 

May 12th. On our return to Gnadenthal, I found letters 
from England and from Capetown, which afforded me 
agreeable information concerning the well-being of mj 
family and friends. A packet of letters from Labrador, 
which ought to have arrived before I went into the inte- 
rior, was missing. Being Sunday, the services at church 
were as usual, and several parties of Hottentots, both 
men and women, came during the day to bid us welcome. 
13th. In the afternoon. Brother Leitner accompanied 
me on a walk down the west-side of the valley, to see a 
place, formerly belonging to a Hottentot, Peter Batje. 
He had planted many fruit and other trees, and made a 
good garden on the premises. His wife was a woman 
of superior intellect, and an exemplary Christian, and 
kept the place in excellent order. After her death, he 
seemed to lose all his former good qualities, and took to 
drinking. No admonitions had any effect, and as his 
house and premises lay at some distance from the other 
dwellings, and in a by-path, leading to Robyntjes Kraal, 
young people of dubious characters, both Hottentots and 
boors, began to make it a place of rendezvous, and resort- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 265 

ed to it at night, taking advantage of a situation which 
eluded immediate detection. Thus it became a haunt of 
^sorderly persons, and Peter received warning to quit. 
He refused to leave the place, and gave the missionaries 
much trouble. Notice was therefore sent to the Veld- 
cornet, who expelled him. Since that time, the premises 
have not been occupied, the missionaries fearinr, that 
they might be turned to the same use, if let to improper 
persons, and the Hottentots being, in general, too poor 
to keep them m repair. We spent part of this day in 
conierence. "^ 

1 ah. I walked with Brother Schmitt to the Caffre 
Kraal, and engaged a CaiFre, Ernest Apolli, to tan and 
dress some tjger and other skins 1 had brought with me 
irom the mter.or. This is done by spreading them on 
the grass, covenng them with sheep's fat, strewing a 
species of chalk over them, and with a sand-stone, by a 
circular motion of the hand, rubbing them, till the skin 
becomes as soft and pliable as wash-leather. The hair 
remains undisturbed. Any laceration by shot or other 
violence, they contrive to mend with great neatness, so as 
hardly to be perceived. 

I wrote to-day to Mr. Von Buissini, the landdrost of 
Zwellendam, in behalf of the poor, who cannot possibly 
pay the new poll-tax of five rix-dollars per man. The 
tax seemed to be levied without any discrimination, or 
proportionate distribution. I was the more anxious to 
do away any impression unfavourable to the present 
Government, as I have, to my sorrow, perceived in the 
minds of many people in the interior, considerable aliena- 
tion from that attachment to the English, which, in the 
beginning, seemed sincere, but has suffered much, proba- 
bly from misapprehension, as they are not acquainted 
with English forms, nor easily turned from their old cus- 
toms. I have been credibly informed, that there is not 
much difference as to the amount of their contributions 
towards the public expenditure; but they have very 
imperfect ideas of commutation. 

15th and Itith. Mr. Melville had kindly undertaken 
to make a correct plan of the whole settlement of Gna- 



266 JOURNAL OF A 

denthal, which he executed in the most finished manner, 
with uncommon accuracy and neatness. 

I7th. A boor^ whose house is not far off, and a sink of 
every abomination, came to Gnadenthal on business. 
Father Marsveld addressed him on the diabolical de- 
light he finds in seducing our unsteady young people 
to drunkenness, and the commission of all manner of lewd- 
ness, when at work at his farm. He is said to live in his 
cellar, to be near to his idol, the brandy-cask, and sel- 
dom sober. He had not a word to say in his own defence^ 
but immediately quitted the place. 

This morning we desired the five Hottentots, who had 
accompanied us into the interior, to inform us what re- 
ward they expected for their trouble. Their remarks 
would have done credit to the most disinterested and ge- 
nerous hearted Europeans. As it was but just that they 
should reap the benefit of their labours, and be recom- 
pensed for their uniform good behaviour, by which they did 
honour to their Christian profession, we gave them about 
as much again as the sum with which they had declared 
themselves satisfied, not wishing to take advantage of 
their willingness to serve a good cause, exerted at the 
expense of the duties they owed to their families. 

In the evening, we met, to confer about a proposal, 
made by the Hottentots themselves, in consequence of 
the disorders before alluded to, which in so large a settle- 
ment cannot be prevented, without strict attention and 
watchfulness. It may be supposed, where there are 
many young people, that not all of them are willing to 
tread in the steps of their Christian parents, but rather 
disposed to follow the ways of the world, and to give 
free vent to their unruly passions. To keep them in 
order had sometimes proved a \ery difficult task to the 
parents, who were unable to defeat the attempts conti- 
nually made by unprincipled white people, and others, to 
entrap the unwary. 

During my journey into the interior, several chapel- 
servants had waited upon Father Marsveld, who, by com- 
mon consent, acts the part of Justice of the Peace in the 
settlement, and expressed a wish, that a company of 
Brethren might be appointed to maintain order through- 
out the village. This was particularly necessary during 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 267 

the evening-services, and at night, to prevent slaves and 
others, who have no business here, from entering the 
houses, and keeping company with the idle and dis'- 
solute. 

The Hottentots proposed, that the missionaries should 
choose men, approved for their good behaviour, and re- 
spected by the people in the village, to be nominated 
opzieners, (overseers.) They should then mention to 
the chapel-servants the names of those whom they had 
chosen, when they would acquaint their teachers with 
the general opinion conceived of each. As they had ap- 
pealed to me, I approved and recommended the measure. 
A list was then prepared of fifty-four men, chiefly fathers 
of families, acknowledged to be capable of holding such 
an office. The Hottentots had also suggested that the 
deputy-landdrost of Caledon, Mr. Von Frauenfelder, 
should be requested to give his sanction to such a regu- 
lation of police. Though we always expect tares to 
grow up with the wheat, yet we may trust, that such 
exertions may be made, as will, by the Lord's mercy, 
keep them down, and prevent their choking the good 
seed. 

19th. Brother Schmitt preached, and in the evening, 
both he and Mr. Melville, with their families, set out on 
their return to the Cape. A large party accompanied 
them to the Sonderend. 

I was this afternoon present at the baptism of three 
children, of from one to three years old. It was con- 
ducted nearly in the same manner as that of adults. At 
night I felt unwell with a violent cold, and on the 2{)th5 
for the first time, did not rise at the stroke of tlie bell, 
nor attended the service in the chapel. The greatest 
anxiety was shown on the part of the missionaries, that 
nothing might be neglected for my relief To Sister 
Leitner I owe the benefit I received from a decoction 
of elder-flowers and bukku-leaves, used here to promote 
perspiration. 

24th. Having made a report of the before-mentioned 
plan of appointing overseers (opziener) to the deputy- 
landdrost, Mr. Von Frauenfelder, I received to-day a 
very satisfactory answer from him, fully approving of 



268 JOURNAL OF L 

the measure, and promising every assistance in his 
power. 

25th. Though I still felt the effects of the cold, yet I 
persevered in taking my usual walks, and to-day went, 
with Brother Lemmerz, to the top of the lower hills be- 
hind the Caffre Kraal, from whence the chief part of 
the stones, used in laying the foundation of the new 
house, had been brought. They are strongly impreg- 
nated with iron. Large blocks lie scattered all over 
these hills, some covered with a lichen of a deep ver- 
milion-colour. We proceeded towards the foot of the 
great mountain, hoping to reach a stony kloof to the 
eastward of it, but were obliged to return, for want of 
time. By the way, we called at some Hottentots' hou- 
ses, and conversed with the inhabitants. In the after- 
noon, we rode to the Sonderend. 

26th. To-day, thirty-two of the fifty-four men ap- 
pointed to be overseers, met, the remainder being en- 
gaged at the farms. They were addressed by Brother 
Leitner, and the nature of the commission, with its re- 
sponsibilities, explained to them. They declared them- 
selves wiUing to accept of it, and several of them spoke, 
with much good sense, of the necessity of providing for 
the maintenance of order in so large a place. Father 
Marsveld represented to them, how careful they ought 
to be, in accepting of, and holding this office, that their 
own lives and conversation should exhibit proofs of real 
conversion of heart, that what they recommended and 
required of others, might be enforced by good example. 
The letter addressed to me by the deputy-landdrost of 
Caledon was then read and explained, and they ex- 
pressed great thankfulness for the countenance to be 
given them by the magistrate. I received, to-day, a 
letter from the landdrost of Zwellendam, Mr. Von 
Buisslna, in which he generously accedes to my wishes 
respecting the poor at Gnadenthal, granting them cer- 
taia exemptions, and directing in what manner the de- 
claration of their disabilities must be made to the col- 
lee or of taxes. 

In the following days, I was busily engaged at home 
Tvitii writing letters, and business relating to the Mission. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 269 

29th. I had been requested to draw up rules or sta- 
tutes, to be read to the congregation, at stated times, 
and particularly to new people, that they might know 
what was required of every one, who desired to become 
and remain an inhabitant of this place. For this purpose, 
I had a conversation with all the missionaries, and heard 
the remarks of each, made on every subject, connect- 
ed with the internal and external state of the settlement. 
From these, and from the regulations of the settlements 
of the Brethren in Europe, as detailed in Loretz's Ratio 
Discipline Fratrum, I compiled a set of rules, suited to 
the peculiar circumstances of this Mission. Having re- 
ceived the approbation of the missionaries, they were 
communicated and explained, first to the company of 
overseers, and afterwards, to the whole congregation, 
and agreed to with thankfulness. All promised obedi- 
ence to them, and some, who had not understood every 
particular instruction, in the following days came to ask 
explanation, to which they had been invited by the mis- 
sionaries. I was pleased with the simplicity and confi- 
dence many of them showed on this occasion. 

30th. I took a walk to the hill behind the Beastkraal, 
from whence a good view of the church, the missionaries' 
gardens, the burial-ground, the kloof, and the great 
mountain, presents itself. While I was making my 
sketch, clouds came rolling from the north, through the 
kloof, and enveloped the lower region of the mountain, 
the different peaks on its summit appearing above them. 
3Jst. For some time the oaks, poplars, and other fo- 
reign trees, had exhibited a beautiful variety of the 
richest autumnal tints, but to-day, the heavy rain and 
wind caused a great falling of the leaves, and, in a few 
days more, winter seemed to have assumed its reign. 

This afternoon, a young man, Francis H. was brought 
before us, to answer for his having struck another man's 
wife. He was expected to be very sulky, but confessed 
the charge, without an attempt to defend himself, and 
heard the sentence of exclusion from the meetings of the 
baptized people, with many tears. He was apparently 
not able to speak for grief, and it was with great rekic- 
tance that he retired, when dismissed. On such occa- 



270 JOURNAL OF A 

sions, I generally remained a silent hearer, and found 
much to approve and admire in the manner in which 
Father Marsveld administered justice. But after Fran- 
cis was gone, I took the Hberty to observe, that, though 
he had confessed the charge brought against him, the 
party offended had not been present, to be examined 
respecting the occasion given for the offence, when pro- 
bably some circumstances might have been discovered, 
which would have caused the sentence to be less rigor- 
ous. It is not in the manner of the punishment that 
its severity is felt, so much as in the effect produced in 
the mind or feelings of the person receiving it. Most of 
the Christian Hottentots, negroes, or other converts from 
among the heathen, in our missionary settlements, would 
rather endure any corporeal chastisement, than be ex- 
cluded from the meetings of their class or division in the 
congregation. The missionaries, acknowledging the 
truth of these remarks, appointed a second hearing in 
Father Marsveld's room, in presence of two or three of 
their number, and a summons was sent to the woman, to 
meet the accused in the morning. 

June 1st. They both appeared before us. Here again 
I was witness to that great influence, which the missiona- 
ries will ever possess over the minds of their converts, 
while the latter are convinced, that all they do and di- 
rect, IS meant only for their good, and that even the se- 
verest reproofs proceed from the sincerest regard for 
their welfare. We now obtained a true account of the 
transaction, which, though in itself of small consequence, 
I relate, as an instance of the manner in which affairs of 
this nature are treated in our settlements. 

By a rule long established, every inhabitant is bound 
to make good the damage done by his cattle in his neigh- 
bour's grounds. To prevent such mischief, they are 
continually exhorted to keep their hedges and other 
fences in repair; the neglect of which operates against 
the complainant in awarding damages. The husband of 
this woman had suffered his horse to enter Francis's gar- 
den, and do considerable mischief. Francis complained, 
and the man agreed, that, to compensate for the damage 
done, he should have twenty or thirty cabbages, with 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA^ 271 

which he was satisfied. On coming to claim them, he 
found the best of them cut off and carried away. He en- 
tered the house, and found only the wife at home, who 
answered to his remonstrance in a manner so affronting, 
that he gave the woman a push, not a blow, according to 
her own admission, when some high words passed be- 
tween them. On cross-examination, the woman confess- 
ed, that, hearing the bargain made between her husband 
and Francis, she had thought it no harm, to save as 
much of her husband's property as she could, and there- 
fore secured the best cabbages. The injustice of such 
deceitful conduct being represented to her, and that she 
deserved to be excluded, as v/ell as Francis, she seemed 
terrified, and offered to make any reparation in her powd- 
er. They were then, after some further exhortation, 
asked, whether they could heartily forgive each other. 
This they did with great sincerity, shaking hands, promi- 
sing never more to remember the offence given. The 
sentence, passed on Francis yesterday, w^as now revoked, 
and both expressed their thanks with great humility. 

2d. Whitsunday. The services usual on this festival- 
day, were attended by the families of some farmers in 
the neighbourhood, and a large audience of Hottentots 
and slaves. In the evening, the Holy Sacrament was ad- 
ministered to about three hundred and fifty commu- 
nicants. 

This was the last time I was favoured to be present, 
and to assist at this sacred ordinance, in the church at 
Gnadenthal. When I entered and took my seat, and be- 
held the congregation sitting before me, in silent expec- 
tation of that great blessing, which attends the celebra- 
tion of this sacramental feast, instituted by our Lord him- 
self, in remembrance of His sufferings and death, I felt 
quite overwhelmed, and almost totally lost in contempla- 
tion. Nor were my feelings free from pain, when I re- 
flected, that, in a few days, I must leave this place and 
people, duty requiring, that 1 should not inuch longer in* 
dulge in the delight my abode at Gnadenthal had afford- 
ed to my mind, but proceed to Groenekloof, where I had 
more business to transact than at this place. 

I could not help drawing a comparison between the 



272 JOURNAL or a 

condition of these Hottentots, and that of the poor, squa- 
lid, and ignorant wretches I had seen during my late 
journey. And these had been in the same state, but for 
the preaching of the Gospel. If this be not a miracle, 
wrought by the power of God alone, I know not what is ! 

Effects so striking may prove to all men, that it is not 
by enticing words of man's wisdom, nor by any human 
systems and contrivances, but by the preaching of the 
cross of Christ, in demonstration of the Spirit, that the 
heart of man is changed, and he is made a new creature. 
And, as I humbly hope, that, through the mercy of God, 
1 have been taught to believe in Jesus, as my only trust 
and refuge in life and death, my faith was greatly 
strengthened, and my mind filled anew with assurance, 
that we are doing right, in determining " to know noth- 
ing amongst men, save Christ Jesus and Him crucified." 
Yet I do not wonder, that some good men reprove us for 
dwelling too much on this subject Its ejQTects are not ta 
be explained by the common rules of reasoning. Experi^ 
ence alone can justify the practice, as consistent witn the 
will and wisdom of God. Even to these poor Hottentots 
the words of St. Peter may be addressed : " Ye are come 
into Mount Zion, and to the city of the living God, and 
to Jesus, the Mediator of the new covenant, and to the 
blood of sprinkling." 

Though despised by most men, and often liable to err 
and fail, yet, as received and reconciled by Him, with 
whom there is no respect of persons, I felt myself unwor- 
thy to serve this congregation, whose attentive, devout 
deportment, and unaffected fervency of spirit is scarcely 
equalled in any Christian community. 

3d. As Whit-Monday is celebrated in this colony, as in 
most parts of the continent of Europe, the usual service 
was performed at the church. In the afternoon, two 
adults, and two children, were baptized. 

After this solemnity, the chapel-servants came in a 
body to pay me a visit. Brother Leitner being interpre- 
ter, I had some very agreeable conversation with them. 
In the evening, the opzieners met, by appointment, in our 
dining-room, when the rules or statutes mentioned 
(p. 269,) were again read and explained. The remarks 



VISI'T to SOUTH AFRICA* ^73 

ahdWed much good sense, and confirmed the opinion I 
have already conceived of the Hottentots, that they are, 
in general, more sensible, and possess better judgment, 
than most Europeans equally destitute of the means of 
instruction. 

4th. Having heard that 1 intended next week to leave 
Gnadenthal, the Hottentots, both men and women, alone, 
or in parties, came to take leave of me, or rather to beg 
me not to leave them. Some said : "* You seem so much at 
home among us, that you had better go and fetch your 
wife and children and take up your abode in this place." 
I replied, that I thought I could do them more service by 
going to England, and reporting to my Brethren, what I 
had here seen and heard of the effects of the gospel, 
which would excite them to send out more teachers, to 
instruct those of their nation who were yet in darkness* 
When they perceived that nothing would prevail to de- 
tain me, many shed tears, saying, that as they must now 
return to the farms, they should see me tio more. Their 
behaviour towards me has, indeed, from the beginning, 
been most kind and affectionate, and if I happened not 
to be in my place at church, which, however, occurred 
only tw^o or three times, their inquiries after ray health 
were continued for three or four days successively. I 
w^as engaged part of this day with Brother Beinbrech, 
who has the charge of the cutlery and smithy. Fourteea 
Hottentots were employed in these branches of business. 
Their busy hammers, files, and polishing-wheel, made me 
often fancy myself living in a London street, and forget, 
that I was in a part of Africa, but lately a horrid and 
! lonely desert. Room being wanted, both for stores and 
ifamily use, some arrangements were made, whicli were 
irendered practicable by the building of the new house, 
ito the satisfaction of all parties. 

This being the birthday of our venerable sovereign, 
•we remembered him in our prayers, according to the 
direction given by the apostle, 1 Tim. ii. 2, with thanks- 
giving, that under him, and a Government disposed to 
promote the interests of religion and virtue, we may lead 
a quiet and peaceable life, in all godliness and honesty. 
5th. A Hottentot, Philip Appell, who had returne(} 



# 



/ 

/ 

274 JOURNAL OF A 

from the interior, was summoned before Father Mars- 
veld and three other Brethren, to be informed that he 
couid not be permitted to live at Gnadenthal. This was 
a new case, which involved a difficult question. 

Philip had formerly belonged to the congregation, 
and, for some time after his baptism, conducted himself 
with propriety.! His wife was a woman of a very turbu- 
lent spirit, and fiad held her former husband incomplete 
subjection. When she married Philip, she made several 
attempts to ti-ieat him in the same manner; but after 
long patience, he at length sought his remedy in his 
superior strepgth, and every now and then their house 
was a scene of confusion and uproar. Added to this, 
they both began to indulge in liquor, and exhortations 
being fruitless, he was ordered to quit the settlement. 
His first expijlsion seemed to produce within him, a show 
of sincere repentance, and he was so earnest in his en- 
treaties for admission, and promises of amendment, that 
he was permitted to return. This happened twice. But 
when he fell ^ third time into the same transgression, he 
refused to depart, and became a terror to the peaceable 
inhabitants. The missionaries had now no means of 
ridding themselves of such disturbers of the public peace, 
but by an application to the landdrost. That magis- 
trate was very ready to lend his aid, and ordered Philip 
instantly to leave Gnadenthal, and not to enter the set- 
tlement within a twelvemonth, on pain of imprisonment. 
But this was not the intention of the missionaries and 
their congregation, who dreaded his return. Whenever 
the subject occurred in conversation. Father Marsveld, 
knowing the cliaracter of the man, assured us, that on 
the very day on which the year of his banishment was 
completed, he would make his appearance; which he did 
accordingly, furnished with a handsome testimonial from 
the farmer by whom he had been employed. 

Though F had heard much to his disadvantage, I could 
not help admiring the address of this Hottentot. He 
was a man of superior intellect, great bodily strength, 
six feet high, and had an imposing appearance. To 
Father Marsveld's just and severe representation of the 
wicked conduct both of himself and his wife, disgraceful 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. / 275 

I 

to the Christian name given him in bap/ism, hurtful to 
the youth in the congregation, annoying /in the extreme 
to ail the iniiabitants, he made a reply, tull of contession 
and contrition, not pretending to defend hijrnself, but only 
craving mercy, patience, and another trial, with so much 
eloquence, that to us, who were novices in these things, 
he appeared truly sincere, and deserving of attention. 
We were rather surprised to hear Fatli^r iMarsveld an- 
swer, with unrelenting severity, to the following effect: 
*^ This speech we have now heard a third time, not one 
word of which we can admit to be true; Do you mean 
a third time to deceive us with hypocritical pretences and 
professions, which proceed not from your heart, but are 
made for your own convenience; because you feel the 
effect of the disgrace you have incurred with your own 
people, and throughout the w^hole country, by yofjr 
abominable practices, which you now seek to wipe off, 
by being again received as an inhabitant of Gnadenthal ? 
But your contrivances are vain. You are dreaded by 
the whole congregation, and there are few who would 
forofive us^ if we were to admit so dangerous a man to 
dwell in this place ; out of which, drunkenness, lewd- 
ness, brawling and fighting, shall, by God's blessing upon 
our present regulations, be totally expelled, together 
with every one, who does not choose to lead a life con- 
sistent with Christian principles." I thought it was all 
over with Philip, whose countenance showed the deep- 
est conviction and humility. But I was mistaken. He 
granted every word the venerable missionary had spo- 
ken, to be true, and that he deserved to be suspected of 
falsehood and pretence, but proceeded to make such 
protestations of his sincerity, and the remorse he felt, on 
account of his former transgressions, that Father Mars- 
veld, perceiving by our looks, that we w^ere disposed to 
relent, ordered Philip to withdraw, that we might con- 
sult together in private. He then observed, that he did 
not wonder at our being moved by the Hottentot's 
speech, since we were yet unacquainted with that par- 
ticular character, but that, if a real change was wrouglit 
in the man's heart, it would appear to him one of the 
greatest miracles he had ever heard of, or seen. The 



376 JOURNAL OF A 

result was, that Philip was permitted to stay till Monday, 
when we should inform him of our decision. Mean- 
while, the opzieners were convened, and the case laid 
before them. The missionaries supposed, that they 
would unanicaously protest against his re-admission, 
when, to our surprise, they all pleaded for a third trial. 
We afterwards discovered, that Philip had informed him- 
self of their appointment, and waited upon each, when, 
hj his penitential declarations, he had quieted their 
minds and moved their compassion. 

On Monday morning, he appeared before us, to hear 
our determination, being directed to bring his wife with 
him. She was addressed by Father Marsveld in a suit-, 
able manner, but looked very sulky, and made no reply, 
Philip then spoke to her in our presence, confessing hi^ 
own sins, and that he had often provoked her bad be- 
haviour, by his conduct, asked her pardon, and exhorted 
her to take warning, and to pray to God to convert her 
heart, that they might in future avoid giving such offence 
to a Christian people, and such pain to their teachers. 
She seemed to relent, and promised obedience and sub- 
mission to the rules of the place. They now obtained 
leave to erect a hut, and cultivate some garden-ground, 
to be appointed for them by Brother Leitner, but were 
told, that for the first breaking out of their former war- 
fare^ or the first symptoms of drunkenness and disorder, 
they would be expelled by the landdrost, never more to 
return. As long as 1 remained in Africa, no complaint was 
made against them, nor have I heard any since my re- 
turn, and we may hope, that the professions of Philip 
Appell have been sincere, and, by the grace of God, 
evinced their reality. He seemed particularly thankful 
to me^ though I had xiot interfered much in pleading his 
cause, and he accompanied me for several miles, when 
I left Gnadenthal. 

On this occasion, I could not but again notice that 
easy flow of speech so natural to many Hottentots, and 
which is indeed increased by Christian instruction; but, 
if not directed by the Spirit of tr'ith, may make a Hot- 
tentot, even without gcnuMe convers'on of heart, ap^ 
pear qualified to preach tc\ and teach others. Great 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 277 

caution ought therefore to be applied, if it be thought 
proper, consistent with convenience or other considera- 
tions, to appoint any of them to that office. Hitherto the 
Brethren have not employed either Hottentots or negroes 
as assistants in the ministry, but only as visiters and 
chapel-servants. 

6th. Having discovered the man who was the chief 
instigator of the uneasiness of the Hesqua people, in 
wishing to appoint a Captain of that tribe, in opposition 
to Captain Koopman, who is regularly appointed by 
Government, he was summoned and examined as to his 
late proceedings at Capetown, where he had waited on 
some members of the Government, and endeavoured to 
obtain the Captain's staff for his tribe. We told him, 
that, had he obtained it, he should immediately have 
quitted the settlement, and might have exercised his 
authority among the wolves and jackals, the only in- 
habitants at present in the Hesqua Kloof, where for- 
merly that tribe had its residence. That, also, the 
first disturbance he should occasion, would be punished 
with expulsion. After much prevarication, he was 
brought to confession, and promises of his future peace- 
able demeanour. 

7th. I visited the girls' school, and heard some of them 
read very well. Dr. Bell's plan is followed as much as 
possible, but not in all its parts. Some have made tole- 
rable progress in writing. 

In the afternoon, 1 rode with Brother Lemmerz, across 
the Sonderend, to a hill beyond Badenhorst's farm. 
The river was so much swollen, that it was impossible to 
ford it without being wet. 

As the time of my departure drew near, the farewell- 
visits of the Hottentots became more frequent, and many 
parties of men, women, and children, followed each other 
during the day. 

In the evening, captain Koopman and two other Hot- 
tentots paid me a formal visit. They began the conver 
sation by expressing the regard and affection they felt 
for me, and their sorrow for my departure. Having 
made portraits of the two venerable Fathers, Marsveld 
and Schwinn, which lay on my table', they immediately 



278 JOURNAL OF A 

knew them, and seemed delighted to see them ^' written 
dovvn on paper." Captain Ivoopman then said, that he 
had still something to observe about the land belonging 
to the Hottentots, in consequence of my having lately 
asserted, " that the land was given by Government to 
the Brethren^ lor the Hottentots, and that, if it had not 
been for the Mission, the Hottentots would have lost it 
all." He entered into a long demonstration to prove, 
that not only this land, but two neighboui'ing farms, 
w^hich he named, had, in old times, been Hottentots' 
land, being secured to one of his ancestors by some 
Dutch Governor, but to which ancestor, and by what 
Governor, he could not tell. He added, that there was 
now not land enough for pasture, and that if, according 
to my recommendation, still more were to be brought 
under tillage for fields and gardens, they must keep 
fewer cattle, and that, if those spots, which appeared fit 
for the rearing of corn, were ploughed and sown, they 
would be surrounded by pasture-ground, and the pro- 
duce trodden down by beasts. 

He therefore wMshed me to apply to the English Go- 
vernment, to restore to the Hottentots the two farms in 
question. Brother Leitner being interpreter, I explained 
to him, that the English Government must and would act 
justly; that they had already greatly favoured the Chris- 
tian Hottentots ; that what I said about the land being 
given " to the Brethren," for the Hottentots, was strictly 
true, for they had the right granted them of giving it to, 
or withholding it from, any Hottentot, at their discretion ; 
and that the occupation of it by the Brethren, as land- 
lords, was the only sure way of preserving it for the use 
of the Hottentots; for he must know, that but for the 
English Government, not only the two farms he men- 
tioned, but Bavians-kloof itself, would have been seized 
upon by some white landholder. Moreover, that the 
English Government could not in justice dispossess the 
farmers of their property, unless by purchase, which 
could not be expected. Brother Leitner then showed, 
that the Brethren had spent above a thousand rix-dol- 
lars, in securing land for the Hottentots, and could do 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 279 

no more, since they received no interest or benefit what- 
ever from it. 

With these explanations they appeared quite satis- 
fied, but added some very sensible remarks on the pre- 
sent degraded state of their countrymen, v^ho lived with 
the boors, since all the country had been taken from 
them, and was possessed by intruders. I endeavoured 
to make them understand, " that though I by no means 
meant to justify such encroachment and robbery, yet 
they might, as Christian people, find some consolation in 
the reflection, that, had it not been for the occupation 
of their country by Europeans, they would have remain- 
ed in gross ignorance and darkness, and been ' led cap- 
tive by Satan at his will,' in the service of sin ; the 
consequence of which, even to the richest and most 
powerful nation, was misery both here and hereafter." 
We then explained to them the state of the negroes 
in the West Indies, who had not only lost their land 
and liberty, but were carried as slaves into a foreign 
country ; and yet many of those, who had received the 
gospel, now rejoiced in that which, to man, seemed the 
greatest misfortune, because it had been the means of 
preparing them, by faith in Jesus, for the possession of 
an inheritance incorruptible and eternal. They heard 
us with great attention, and, during the latter part of 
the address, tears filled their eyes, and they declared 
their thankfulness to God for their present privileges : 
adding, that in conversation among themselves, they fre- 
quently reminded each other of these benefits. 

It was to me a most interesting discovery, showing, 
that these poor people likewise reason about the rights 
of man, though with rather more coolness and good sense, 
than some among our English demagogues have done. 

8th. To-day I was much engaged in making prepara- 
tions for my departure, and finished a farewell-address 
to the congregation, in Dutch, which I meant to read to 
them on Sunday. For though I had learned to read and 
pronounce this language tolerably well, I could not ven- 
ture to speak extempore in a public assembly. I read it 
on the 

9th, in the afternoon, to a crowded audience, and was 



280 JOURNAL aF A 

glad to hear, that it was well understood by the Hotteii- 
tots. When I had finished, and left the desk, Father 
Marsveld addressed the congregation, and offered up a 
prayer in my behalf. 

The pain felt at parting was, I believe, mutual ; nor 
would my feelings have suffered me to read my speech, 
had I not been obliged to pay as much attention to read- 
ing and right pronunciation, as to the subject itself. 

During the whole day, parties of Hottentots came into 
my room, to express their afifection, thanks, and good 
wishes. 

1 0th., The weather being rainy, and every prospect 
of the rivers in the high mountains being impassable, I 
gave up my intention of going to Groenekloof by Rode- 
sand and Tulbach. 

The missionaries Clemens and Leitner, with Sister 
Leitner, having resolved to accompany me to Groene- 
kloof, our departure was fixed for the following morning. 
But hearing that it was no longer possible to pass the 
ford of the Sonderend, I confess I felt pleased with the 
prospect of delay; for my regret at leaving Gnadenthal 
and its worthy inhabitants was hourly on the increase. 

In the evening, the family met to take leave of me. I 
endeavoured, as well as I was able, to express to all, 
and each of them, the grateful sense I had, and shall 
ever retain, of the undissembled brotherly love and con- 
fidence which I enjoyed during my abode in this place, 
as likewise my view of the present state of the Mission, 
and my heartfelt, fervent, and never-ceasing desire and 
prayer, that a special blessing might rest upon the la- 
bours of each of the Brethren and Sisters employed in 
it, both now and in succession. Brother Clemens, the 
warden, in the name of all the missionaries, answered me 
in a most affectionate address. Of this last evening at 
Gnadenthal, I spent part with Father Schwinn, and part 
with Father Marsveld, in pleasant and profitable conver- 
sation. 

The state of Father Schwinn's health was very pre- 
carious. It did not appear as if we should much longer 
enjoy the services of this faithful labourer in the Lord's 
vineyard. Father Marsveld was above seventy years 



tlSlT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 281 



old, and begins, in various ways, to feel the infirmities of 
age, but his spirit is lively, and both his fellow labourers, 
and the Hottentots, prayed that he might be preserved 
in health and Activity many years longer. 



CHAPTER XVIIL 

Departure from Gnadenthal. Acccnnpnnied by Hottentots 
and Missionaries. Warmbaths. Dr. Hassner loses his 
best slave. Caledon. Bontjeskraal. JVigh^s lodging at 
Servas de Kok'^s farm. Ford of the Botte Revier. Mn 
Uriels farm and inn. Battle of baboons. Bridge over 
the Palmite Revier. Hottentot-Hollands-Kloof. Brenk'^s 
Inn. Might spent at Mr. Delporfs farm. Remarkable 
mountains. Farms of Mr. Dirk Cloete^ Mr. JVeukirch^ 
and Mr. Bruckman. Ji Boor'^s opinion of the Caffres 
and Hottefitots. Arrival at Groenekloof Mr. Slabbert. 
Consultation about the new Church. Mr. Kotzee. Re- 
marks on intruders. Arrival at Capetown. Mr. Hoetz^s. 
villa. Return of my travelling companions to Gnaden- 
thal. Visit at JYewlands. Mr. Sebastian van Rhenen. 
Observations on Church-music. Return to Groenekloof 

June llth* I did not feel quite well, and had almost 
given up the hopes of being able to set out this morning, 
on account of the reported fulness of the Sonderend, 
when Solomon Pfeiffer, who had been sent to examine the 
state of that river, returned with the news, that it might 
be forded with great ease. We therefore prepared for 
the journey. 

After I had paid an early visit to the two venerable 
Fathers, Marsveld and Schwinn, in their rooms, the fami- 
ly breakfasted together in the dining-hall, and once more 
commended me and my fellow travellers to the grace and 
protection of God, in a short prayer by Father Mars- 
veld. 

Meanwhile, about two hundred Hottentots had assem- 
bled in the grove. All would press forward, and their 

eagerness onco more to shake hands and bid me farewell 
o 

3G 



282 JOURNAL OF A 

was so great, that a general scramble was avoided only 
by my calling to them, that I would not pass by any one, 
but admit them all in due order. At length we reached 
and entered the wagon, when they began, with one voice^ 
to sing their farewell-hymn. 

At this moment, I felt all resistance to my feelings 
give way. Never have I experienced a keener pang, on 
leaving any place, or any friends, to whom I was attach- 
ed. Gnadenthal is indeed a spot, where I have found 
myself so much at home, and where almost every object 
conspired to fill my mind with grateful remembrances and 
contemplations, that, though convinced of my duty to 
proceed to Groenekloof, where business of importance 
to that settlement demanded my presence, I found it ne- 
cessary to do violence to my feelings, to tear myself 
loose. But my spirit will often dwell in those hallowed 
groves, accompany the congregation into the house of 
prayer, attend them during their truly solemn assemblies, 
behold with affection and delight the pious labours of 
their teachers^ participate in their joys, their sorrows, 
and their cares, and enjoy an aftertaste of the heavenly 
comfort attending the administration of the holy sacra- 
ments, by the presence and power of our Lord and Sa- 
viour. 

The whole missionary family, and about a hundred and 
fifty Hottentots, small and great, on foot or on horseback, 
accompanied us beyond the Sonderend, as far as Baden- 
horst's farm, where, placing themselves in a semicircle^ 
they sang another farewell-hymn, and finally bade adieu. 
The Brethren Thomson and Lemmerz kept us company 
till we arrived at Mr. Klemm's, on Serjeants Revier. 

The Gnadenthal range of mountains was covered with 
snow, upon which the sun shone with great splendour. 
We reached the Warmbaths about five in the evening, 
but, to our sorrow, found our good friend. Dr. Hassner, 
very ailing. His spirits, however, revived, and we spent 
a pleasant evening at his house. 

12th. In the morning, the doctor was better. He had 
met with a serious loss, by the death of a slave, who, 
besides being a useful and sensible servant, was a good 
joiner, and cost him three thousand rix-dollars. The 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 283 

poor fellow seems to have been seduced to take too much 
liquor, fell from his horse into a ditch, and broke his 
back. 

After breakfast we set out, and called upon Mr, Von 
Frauenfelder, the deputy-landdrost of Caledon. He was 
glad to hear our report of the new regulations at Gna- 
denthal, and to relieve the poor of that place, by a di- 
rection from Mr. Von Buissini, who had most kindly at- 
tended to jmy representation. 

The landdrost delivered to me a letter froii) Colonel 
Bird, just arrived, in answer to my application made to 
his Excellency the Governor, for the possession of the 
land on the Witte Revier, which is granted, in terms 
most obliging. 

Our next visit was to the Rev. Mr Voss, the minister 
of Caledon. He showed us the church, which is a good, 

Klain building, and gave us some information respecting 
lessrs. Read's and Williams's visit to CafFraria, wheie 
they seemed to have met with encouraging success. 

From hence we proceeded to Bontjeskraal. On an 
eminence near the farm, I found a fine view of four 
ranges of mountains, those of Gnadenthal, the Zwarteir 
berg near Caledon, the Tower of Babel and its compa- 
nions, and the Great and Little Haue Hock. Our road, 
from this place to Mr. Servas de Kok's farm on the 
Botte Revier, lay over a barren waste. He received 
us drily, but gave us a good sup^per, good beds, and in 
conversation was friendly. 

13th. We set out early, and forded the Botte Revier 
without difficulty. Formerly, rocks rendered this ford- 
ing-place almost impassable, but about a year ago, by a 
sudden inundation, earth and sand was carried down 
from the mountain in such quantities, that the rocks were 
covered, the holes filled up, and a good road made 
through the river. Mr. de Kok, however, was a 
great sufferer. His vineyards wer^ completely ruined, 
the water-course and mil! destroyed, and the well, which 
supplied the family, choked up. 

In about an hour, we reached the toll-house, at t!ie 
foot of the Haue Hoek, over which we had a pleasant 
walk of about three English miles, the morning beinjs" 



284 JOURNAL OF A 

remarkably fine. We halted at Mr. Urie's farm. While 
dinner was preparing, we walked with our landlord into 
his grounds. He had laid out a large garden and vine- 
yard, and was now^ planting wood, and making other im- 
provements, by which, if he succeeds, his place will be- 
come a little paradise, in the midst- of a wilderness. 

The great Haue Hoek presents itself here, with many 
small peaks. Its rocks are the habitations of baboons, 
which, indeed, occupy the summits of all the neighbour- 
ing hills. Mr. Urie enteitained us with an account of a 
combat he had lately beheld, on the waste, adjoining 
his gardens, between a large herd of baboons from the 
Haue Hoek, and a party from the opposite range. It 
was maintained on both sides Avith great fury, and with 
horrid yells and barkings, when, suddenly, a stop w^as 
put to it, by an unfortunate jackal running in among 
them. The poor animal was seized by one party and 
thrown towards the other, then back again. His cries, 
added to those of the combatants, filled the air with the 
most discordant sounds, till the death of the intruder 
seemed to give the signal for a general retreat. 

Healing that the ford of the Palmite Revier was im- 
passable, we drove to the bridge. At the toll-house we 
found a miserable night's lodging, rose early on the 

14th, and passed over the bridge, which is of wood, 
and the only bridge in all South Africa. It rests upon 
stone piers, thought sufficiently strong to resist the force 
of the stream, which sometimes, in the rainy season, be- 
comes extremely rapid and fierce, but was now nearly 
hid among palmite-plants and low bushes, growing in its 
bed. To prevent the wood-work from being washed off 
the piers in great floods, the timbers are fastened to them 
by strong chains, on the side of the waters descent. 
The bridge is furnished with railings, and on the floor- 
planks, the tliick spungy stalks of the palmite-plant are 
laid in abundance, partly to atford an easier passage for 
the bullock's feet, and partly to deaden the sound of the 
wood, by which they are apt to be frightened. Two 
wagoners had spanned out on the opposite bank, and 
both they and their dogs seemed much alarmed at our 
<^ar]y approach. The moori shone bright, and its re- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 285 

flection upon the eastern ascent of the mountain, ^rhich 
is covered with decomposed quartz, frittered into white 
sand, gave it the appearance of a field covered with 
snow. In one place, the road is steep, and full of rocky 
ledges. 

The eastern approach to the top of Hottentot-Hol- 
lands-Kloof is guarded on each side bj fragments of rocks, 
thrown into a variety of fanciful groupes, and odd shapes. 
The road down the western declivity, though irremedia- 
bly steep, has been much improved by the English. The 
adjoining precipices are rugged in the extreme, but 
every practicable spot is covered with a profusion of cu- 
rious plants and shrubs. The sugar-bush grows here 
in great plenty, and, with its magnificent starry flower, 
adorns the wild region. At the top of the western de- 
scent, I noticed a vein of iron-stone, with sand-stone and 
indurated clay, of a reddish or violet colour, which forms 
the mass of that part of the hill, called the Rothe Hochte. 
Towards the bottom, all the fragments of rock (for there 
are no large masses visible) are of a coarse grit or 
granite. 

About nine, we reached Mr. Brenk's inn, where we 
were obliged to remain four hours, to let our poor famish- 
ed oxen enjoy some food and rest. At two, we proceed- 
ed, called at Mr. Morgel's farm, and reached Mr. Del- 
port's house at the Moddergat. Darkness and fatigue 
made us glad to find here a comfortable night's lodging. 
We -were all put into one room, where we had also the 
honour of having our host and a boy in the same dormi- 
tory with us. The good man went to bed with a pipe 
in his mouth. When he felt sleep coming on, he placed 
it in a chair, to be ready in the morning. Between two 
and three o'clock, he struck a light, without quitting his 
bed, and fell to smoking again. It proved, however, no 
annoyance, for there being no ceiling to the apartment, 
the volumes of smoke, which rose curling from his lips, 
had room to spread to the top of the roof. 

1 5th. Our oxen having strayed far away, in search of 
food, we were detained some hours after dawn of day. 
1 improved the time, in viewing a remarks^blo mountain. 



28B JOURNAL OF A 

called the Helderberg or Simonsberg, belonging to the 
Stellenbosch range, the rocky summit of which exhibits a 
most singular variety of peaks and copulas. The village 
of Stellenbosch presents itself beautifully, with its groves, 
avenues, and plantations of fir and other trees. While 
the wagon followed slowly, I walked through some of its 
streets. We were hospitably received and entertained 
at Mr. Dirk Cloete's farm, and, in tl^ afternoon, contin- 
ued our route to Mr. Neukirch's house, where we met 
with a reception equally kind, and spent an agreeable 
evening. The house is new, and when completed, and 
the grounds improved by plantations and gardens, the 
situation promises to be one of the most pleasant in the 
whole country. Over the principal door, in a medallion, 
iare the words, "memento mori." w\ 

Our driver, Marcus, and the leader, had meanwhiloP 
driven the oxen to a feeding-place at some distance. 
The poor beasts were so much fatigued, that we hardly 
expected them to bring us to-day to Groenekloof. We 
proceeded through an uninteresting country, to an out- 
spann-place, near Diep Revier, where Sister Leitner pro- I 
vided us both w^ith breakfast and dinner. Between these ^ 
two meals, I walked about the waste, and found some 
situations, from which the Stellenbosch hills are seen to 
advantage, as likewise the Table-Mountain, and the 
lower ranges of the Tygerberg, Koeberg, and Paerde- 
berg. I found some odd varieties of iron-stone. 

Thus employed, I seldom found time to hang heavy 
upon my hands, during the many tiresome delays by out- 
spanning and other circumstances, connected with an Af- 
rican journey; and may I never be wanting in gratitude 
to God, for granting to me such health, liveliness and ac- 
tivity of mind, during this whole period, insomuch that I 
never felt disposed to take an African nap after din- 
ner. 

Our evening worship consisted in singing several 
verses in the wagon, which I should not notice, were 
it not to record the behaviour of the Hottentots, who, 
though before obliged by continual shouting and cracking 
of whips, to keep our wearied cattle from stopping, or 



VISIT to SOUTH AFHICA,^ 287 

even lying down, v^alked quietly and devoutly near tliQ 
wagon, and left the poor beasts to take their time. 

We reached the miller Bruckman's bouse at eight 
o'clock, and found good quarters. A loquacious country- 
man, who had come in to spend the night, treated us with 
his opinions on the state of the Hottentots and CafFres, 
whom he considered as the Canaanites of this land, des- 
tined to be destroyed by the white people, who were 
the Israelites of God! It is strange, that the same notions 
haunted the brains of many wicked fanatics in North 
America, about seventy years ago, who, on that account, 
opposed the Missions of our Church among the Indians, 
as may be seen in LoskiePs history. 

17th. We did not reach Groenekloof till eleven 
o'clock. The day was spent in visiting some of the 
famihes, and making various arrangements. 

18th. We were visited by Mr. Slabbert, the proprietor 
of the Langefonteyn farm. Vaillant has made honour- 
able mention of this family, and I was glad to become ac- 
quainted with a man who, in many respects, is superior to 
most so-called Jifricaner^ in intellect and liberality of 
sentiment. Speaking of Vaillant, he was rather surprised 
to hear, that his own account states him to have been a 
man of an undaunted spirit, whereas he passed with the 
Slabberts for a very timid and fainted-hearted traveller. 

19th. We conferred together about the site of the new 
church, and made a calculation of the wood required 
for that, and the repairs of one of the ont-house^, which 
had been burnt some years before the missionaries were 
put in possession of the premises by the Earl of Caledon> 
Sister Schmitt had, at her own expense, fitted up one 
end of it for a school-room, but now the increase of the 
establishment rendered more dwellings necessary. 1 
likewise resolved to accompany my Gnadenthal friends 
to Capetown, with a, view to transact some business 
relating to this setdement Avith His Excellency the 
Governor. 

20th. We set out after dinner, and arrived, about 
seven, atBlauberg, Mr. Kotzee's house, where we spent 
the night. We soon perceived that our visit was not 
very agreeable, for Mr. Kotzee's mother-in-law being so 



288 JOURNAL OF A 

ill, that her death was shortly expected, and his wife 
likewise unwell, it was no wonder that such intrusion 
was not well-timed. Not every rnan has the gift of im- 
mediately smothering unpleasant feelings, when stran- 
gers interrupt the usual course of the family, by com- 
ing unannounced, and demanding quarters for the night. 
Nor can the inmate know, whether these intruders may 
not, as is sometimes the case, fill the house with noise 
and restlessness. Had the slave, whom we first ac- 
costed, informed us of the state of the family, we 
should have quietly remained in our wagons, notwith- 
standing the general invitation formerly given by Mr. 
Kotzee to the missionaries at Groenekloof, when he 
visited that place. However, after the first expres- 
sions of displeasure had passed by, he behaved towards 
us with the greatest civility and hospitahty. His house 
is one of the best in the country, and elegant in its ar- 
rangements and furniture. Every thing in it is conducted 
with great order. 

21st. After breakfasting with the family, we left Blau- 
berg at eight o'clock. This being the shortest day, we 
were glad that the weather turned out fine, and had as 
pleasant a ride to Capetown as the dreary country and 
sandy road would allow. The tediousness of the jour- 
ney around the bay is considerably reheved by the mag- 
nificent view of the Table-Mountain audits associates, on 
a fine day. 

We arrived at Mrs. Disandt's house about two o'clock^ 
and soon had the pleasure to see our wordiy friends Mr. 
Hanck and Mr. Melville. I also found here Mr. Edward 
Grant, from Bombay, with whom I contracted a very 
agreeable acquaintance. 

22d. This day was spent in visiting friends, old and 
new. I likewise increased my collection of horns, by the 
purchase of those of a koodoo, gnou, hartebeesl, and 
gemsbock. 

23d. We attended divine service in the Lutheran 
church. The hymns are sung in German, but the ser- 
mon delivered in Dutch. I did not understand much of 
ihe Rev. Mr. Hesse's discourse, though, by this time, I 
am tolerably well acquainted with Gnadenthal Dutch. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 289 

This is a very convenient variety of that ancient lan- 
guage, and much to be recommended ; for as our mission- 
aries have learned Dutch, chiefly by books, and from each 
other, their dialect is so well mixed with German, both 
as to words and pronunciation, that it is easily understood, 
both by a person acquainted with the German language 
only, and by a native Dutchman, ignorant of German y 
and surely no one will deny, that a language so construct- 
ed, that of two different nations, each may understand it, 
is a most desirable medium of conveying ideas, which is 
the proper use of speech. 

24th. At nine in the morning, Brother Leitner and his 
wife accompanied me, by invitation, to the villa of our 
friend, Mr. Hoetz, who sent his carriage for us. The 
morning was delightful. The villa is situated about three 
English miles from Capetown, on the road to Newlands, 
at the back of the Table-Mountain. From the gardens, 
the view of the house, with so magnificent a back-ground, 
is charming. Its elegant portico is half hid by the 
branches of large trees, with which the premises abound. 
Many singular varieties of the aloe and Indian fig are 
found in the gardens. The plantations of oak and firs, 
between the house and the mountain, are extensive, and 
kept in good order by Mr. Hoetz, who took the trouble 
to walk with us through the greatest part of his grounds. 
About a fortnight /igo, a male tyger was shot near the 
back-wall, the skin of which was remarkably beautiful. 
Considering the quantity of cover, both of rock and 
wood, which tygers and other ravenous beasts might find 
in this wild region, it is surprising that not more of thern 
are seen and taken. We returned to town about twelve, 
when I went to the Colonial Office, and called upon the 
Governor, Colonel Bird, and Mr. Melville. 

25th. To-day mj travelling companions from Gnaden- 
thal prepared for their return, and after waiting long for 
their wagon, owing to the usual tardiness of Hottentot 
drivers, they set out at three in the afternoon. A slave, 
emancipated by the will of his master, on condition of his 
living at Gnadenthal, and receiving Christian instruction, 
went with them. Mr. Melville and I walked with them 
as far as the turnpike. There 1 took a last leave of my 

37 



29U JOURNAL OP A 

Gnadenthai friends, who still vainly hoped, that I should 
visit them once more, no opportunity offering for my 
speedy departure for England. But travelling at this 
time of the year is connected with so much delay, incon- 
venience, and uncertainty, that, far from indulging the 
idea af returning to Gnadenthai, I am almost of opinion, 
that I have been too much attached to that place, and 
staid in it too long. Our best wishes and prayers attend 
each other in our several employments and travels. I 
parted with some regret from Marcus, who had so long 
been my faithful coachman, and always approved himself 
worthy of his Christian name and profession. Brother 
Schmitt and his wife arrived to-day from Groenekloof 

26th. I w^ent in Mr. Hancke's sociable, with Mr. Ed- 
ward Grant, to Newlands, to pay a morning visit to the 
Governor, but was unsuccessful. In the evening, his 
Excellency sent me an invitation to attend him on the fol- 
lowing day. 

27th. This morning, I had the pleasure to receive let- 
ters from England, by which I was informed of the safe 
arrival of all my letters written at sea. The Spaniard 
and Dane had been the most tardy in forwarding them. 

In the afternoon, I set out for Newlands, with Mr. 
Edward Grant for my companion. I found there Mr. 
Von Rhyneveld, the landdrost of Stellenbosch, his lady, 
and Colonel Monkton. My visit proved very pleasant 
and useful, as both during the course of the evening, and 
in the morning of the 

28th. I was favoured with much conversation with his 
Excellency, concerning affairs of consequence to the 
Mission, when I again had many proofs of his favourable 
disposition towards it. Having an engagement at Cape- 
town in the evening, I returned on horseback, though 
it rained hard, 

29th. My Groenekloof friends introduced me to Mr. 
Sebastian Van Rhenen, where we dined. This gentle- 
man has been a friend to the Groenekloof Mission from 
its beginning. Having formerly travelled all over the 
colony, he gave us some interesting information on seve- 
ral topics, but particularly on the state of agriculture in 
the colony. His remarks, founded on long experience, 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 291 

respecting the regulations now adopted to improve the 
rearing of produce, and the breed of cattle and sheep, 
the introduction of better implements of husbandry, the 
frequent change of Governors, and the new taxation, 
appeared just and well supported. 

30th. We attended divine worship at the Lutheran 
church, where, as the Rev. Mr. Hesse informed me, 
some extraordinary music was to be performed, to so- 
lemnize the commemoration of the delivery of the Augs- 
burg Confession. I expected some ecclesiastical anthem 
in the good old Lutheran style, but was sadiy disap- 
pointed. By way of a prelude, the organist, a very 
clever performer both on the piano-forte and violin, as- 
sisted by about six or eight of the military band, treated 
us with the middle movement of Haydn's military sym- 
phony. The performance of this martial piece was 
surely a very improper preparation for religious wor- 
ship. On Mr. Hesse's entering the church, and stepping 
before the altar, he pronounced the words ; " Holy is 
God ! Holy is God ! the Lord of Sabaoth !" Between 
each sentence, a choir, consisting of four or five men, 
sung the same words to music, pretending to be the 
Sanctus in Haydn's first mass, but strangely altered and 
mangled. The singers had no copies written out for 
their use, but, turning their backs to the congregation, 
looked over the organist's shoulders into his book. The 
majestic simplicity of the Lutheran hymn-tunes was lost, 
in a display of the most flourishing decollations. Still I 
hoped, that, during some part of the service, which, as 
far as the preacher and congregation were concerned, 
was conducted with great solemnity, some anthem would 
be performed. I was mistaken; for, as a prelude to one 
of the four hymns appointed for the occasion, we were 
treated with another instrumental piece of Haydn, beau- 
tiful in its composition, and well executed by the band, 
but rather suited to accompany a dance than to excite 
devotional feelings. Of Mr. Hesse's most impressive 
discourse I understood more than on a former occasion, 
having seated myself near the pulpit. He closed it with 
a serious, and indeed mournful, consideration of the 
great degeneracy now prevailing throughout the Pro- 



292 JOURNAL OF A 

testant communion, and with an earnest, but affectionate 
address to his congregation, and especially to the youth, 
exhorting them to consider their ways, and return unto 
the Lord, who had granted thera such great privileges, 
and the free use of His Holy Word and Sacraments. 
But, as if to efface all due impression made upon the 
audience by the solemnity of Mr. Hesse's discourse, the 
organist struck up the last movement of the military 
symphony, which half the congregation staid to hear. 

I must confess, that I left the church with pain and 
disgust. Though blame may attach to the persons en- 
gaged in this degradation of the service, and of that no- 
ble art, which is so suitably and acceptably employed to 
promote devotion, w^heh under the influence of a proper 
spirit, yet the cause of grief and regret in the heart of 
every sincere Christian, on account of such incongruities, 
lies deeper. That such things exist, is one convincing 
proof, among many, of the truth of the reverend preach- 
er's description of the present degeneracy. In those 
days, when the Protestant Confession Avas presented at 
Augsburg, would such performances have been borne in 
a place of worship? 

Luther knew the value of music, and the strong influ- 
ence it has upon the mind and affections, and therefore 
wisely retained the use of it in the Church. He increased 
the number of hymns, and by these means caused the 
knowledge of evangelical truth to spread fast among the 
people. Nor did he object to those antiphonal and choral 
performances, which accompanied both the Jewish and 
the primitive Christian worship, and furnish an agree- 
able variety and relief. But it was never the design of 
this great reformer, that the church should be the theatre, 
upon which music-masters and singers might exhibit the 
swiftness of their fingers, or the powers of their voice. 
There are other opportunities and places, where this 
may be done with propriety, and give delight to the most 
religious scientific admirer of the art. But in the house 
of prayer, these exhibitions are out of place, and the skill 
and taste of the performer should rather be discovered, 
by his knowing how to give majesty and effect to simpli- 
city, without drawing the attention of the congregation 



V[SIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 293 

from the worship of God, to the admiration of himself. 
Instrumental music speaks a language, and expresses 
affections, as well as vocal. This is understood but im- 
perfectly; yet there are few who will not grant, that a 
march or a jig, performed by instruments, though it may 
afford pleasure in the field, or in a concert-room, speaks 
a language as little calculated to promote devotion as an 
entertaining story, or a sally of wit. 

We dined with Mr. Poleman, whose friendship I learned 
to value more and more, the better I became acquainted 
with him. Our evening was very agreeably spent with 
the Rev. Mr. Hesse. 

July 1st. Having taken leave of our worthy friend, 
Mrs. Disandt, at whose house we had been most hospi- 
tably entertained, we assembled at Mr. Melville's, and 
about ten o'clock left Capetown for Groenekloof In 
the evening, we reached Mr. Kaus's farm, called Lange 
Ruck, where we found good quarters for the night. 

2d. We arrived safe at Groenekloof I was pleased 
to observe the growth of Indian ligs, planted as a fence 
to the burial-ground. Some new attempts to raise plan- 
tations of young trees had been made, but did not seem 
to succeed. 

3d. A trap having been set in a ravine, to catch mause- 
hand, a muskiliat-cat was found in it, which Brother Stein 
brought home. It was extremely fierce, and had nearly 
escaped, when brought out of the trap. The skin was 
beautifully variegated with stripes and spots. The 
ground-colour a blueish gray, the spots black, with some 
admixture of brown. It is a species of viverra, with a 
long snout, and very sharp fangs. That, now caught, 
measured a foot and a half from its snowt to the root of 
the tail; the latter was of the same length as the body, 
with black and gray rings from the root to the tip. The 
smell of musk was very powerful in its skin, even after 
hanging five or six weeks in the open air. 

4th. The trap being again set, a mausehund was 
caught, and preserved alive. It was a pretty creature, 
fierce and restless, uttering a sharp, barking noise, but 
being yet young, easily tamed, and, after some time, 
brought to take its meat out of any man's hand. After 



294 JOURiNAL OF A 

having for some weeks patiently borne its confinement 
in a small kennel, it had the good fortune one night to 
gnaw off the thong, by which it was fastened, and thus 
to regain its liberty. 

6th. The Lord's Supper was administered. Though 
this congregation is smaller, and consequently the com- 
municants fewer in number than at Gnadenthal, yet, 
having first at Groenekloof seen a congregation of Chris- 
tian Hottentots, and received the first strong impres- 
sions in my mind of the inestimable value of that work 
of God, by which the conversion of these poor people is 
effected, I perceived, that no subsequent circumstances 
had effaced them. 1 enjoyed an aftertaste of that pecu- 
liar delight which I then experienced, in seeing this con- 
gregation, met on so solemn an occasion. The external 
appearance of the communicants is here remarkably 
neat and clean. Both men and women were dressed in 
white cottons, and their deportment was very devout and 
respectful. He, who has promised, that, where two or 
three are gathered together in His name, He will be in 
the midst of them, blessed us with an encouraging per- 
ception of His divine presence. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Return to England deferred. Consultations about the new 
Church. Visit to the Groote Post. Mr. Croucher, Visit 
Cruywagens Kraal and Lauweskloof. Particular ac- 
count of Brother Schmitfs encounter with a tyger. Of 
the first sermon in the Poplar wood. Earth-hogs under- 
mining Captain Klapmus'^s dwelling. Cape lark. Jour- 
ney to the Cape. Puffadders. Cape Butchers. Engage 
a passage in the Brilliant. Account of a Whale. Mr. 
Zorn. Mr. Buck. Antelopes. Mr. Hesse. Ride to 
Green Point. Granite and Schistus. Return to Groene- 
kloof. Rocky eminences. Hartebeest Kopf Cornland. 
Hottentot manner of sowing corn. Father Schwinn^s de- 
cease. Violent storm. 

On the 7th, I received a letter from Mr. Hancke, in- 
forming me, that in consequence of my having desired a 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICAp 21)5 

passage to England to be secured for me, on board the 
first homeward-bound ship, he had provisionally done it 
in the Francis and Eliza, which w^ould sail in a few days ; 
yet subject to my own decision. The notice being so 
short, I was brought into some dilemma, but resolved 
to go to Capetown, and make further inquiry. In the 
night I was seized with headach, and felt too unwell to 
think of setting off in the morning. 

8th. My indisposition confined me to the room, both 
this and the following day. The weather likewise be- 
came unfavourable, and the rainy season seemed to set 
in with violence. 

lOth. Instead, therefore, of going, I sent a messenger 
to the Cape, and declined the offer of a passage oa 
board the above-mentioned vessel. Nor had I finished 
all 1 had yet to do at Groenekloof. I had afterwards 
reason to believe, that it was providential that I was 
detained. 

llth. In the afternoon, Mr. Melville arrived here, 
being engaged to make a general survey of the Groene- 
kloof district, and as w^e were now daily considering of 
thebestmanner of procuring men and means to build the 
new church, we were glad to have so able a counsellor 
to assist in our deliberations. 

12th. I drew up a writing, to be placed in the founda- 
tion-stone, which, in the sequel, was approved and signed 
by all the missionaries. After Mr. Melville had left us. 
Brother Schmitt rode with me to the Groote Post, to 
engage Mr. Croucher, the overseer, to come to Groene- 
kloof on a survey of the wood, that we might know what 
trees might be useful for spars and scaffolding. 

The Groote Post, which is a Government farm, and 
hunting-seat of the Governor, lies nearly north of Groene- 
kloof. On ascending the heights, it appears, at about an 
hour's distance, pleasantly situated, under a range of 
low heathy hills. The road passes through a wilder- 
ness, covered with rhinocerous and other bushes, har- 
bouring various kinds of game. We started some reh- 
bock antelopes, and several black cocks or Korhans, 
which betray themselves by a loud chattering noise, in 
endeavouring to escape. On the hills lie many huge 



29 G JOURNAL OF A 

fragments of stones, loosely thrown together, affording^ 
shelter to baboons, wolves, and jackals. But these ani- 
mals are seldom seen, without going into their haunts. 
They prove their presence in the country, by their fre- 
quent depredations and other misdeeds. At night, the 
two latter sally forth on predatory expeditions; the 
baboon retires into his strono:-hold at sunset. 

o 

The Conterberg is the highest mountain in this part 
of the country ; then follows the Lauweskloof hill. 
The lower ranges take a direction from south-west to 
north-east. 

Much ground has been cultivated at the Groote Post, 
and its fields and gardens look like a green carpet, 
spread on the brown waste. The house is not large, 
and, though said to be built under English direction, is 
wholly Dutch in its arrangements. A clumsy flight of 
steps leads to the main entrance. The kitchen and ser- 
vants' hall are close to the sitting-room, which has a huge 
fire-place, quite out of proportion w^ith the size of the 
room. One of the wings is divided into cells for visiters, 
each containing a neat camp-bed, table and chair. The 
building is not worthy to be the country residence of the 
Governor of this colony, and his Excellency resides 
chiefly at Newlands. 

We were welcomed with much civility by the over- 
seer, Mr. Croucher. He showed us a flock of about two 
hundred lambs, between the Spanish and Cape breed. 

The stone, used for building, and brought ofl'the ad- 
joining hills and waste, is a variety of grit or granite, its 
component parts being remarkably small ! Having 
agreed to meet Mr. Croucher on the day following, we 
returned, and in passing, saw the Cornland belonging 
to our Hottentots, situated on an eminence, called the 
Hartebeest Kopf, w^here many of them were diligently 
employed, under the inspection of Brother Fritsch. 

12th. We walked through the wood with Mn 
Croucher. He very obligingly yielded to all our wishes, 
and desired, that the trees we thought useful for our 
buildings might be marked. He also pointed out a mode 
of constructing Hottentot houses in a more expeditious, 
convenient, and durable manner, than is done atpresentiL 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 297 

and offered to come with a slave, and help to build the 
next house to be added to the village ; and otherwise to 
render any service to the mission. I mention this with 
the more satisfaction, as an opinion had been entertained 
at Groenekloof, that he was not friendly to the Mission, 
which some former transactions, in which, however, he 
was not personally to blame, seemed to justify. How 
often do we perceive, that opinions formed from appear- 
ances are fallacious ! Nothing, surely, would more pro- 
mote the peace of society and goodwill among men, than 
frequent and unreserved explanations. Mr. Croucher 
came from the neighbourhood of Guildford in Surry, and 
is well skilled in the art of rearing and preserving trees. 

After dinner. Brother Schmitt rode with me to Cruy- 
wagens Kraal and Lauweskloof, both belonging to 
Groenekloof By the way, we visited a plantation on 
the waste, begun some time ago by Brother Bonatz, 
which the heat and dryness of the sand will not permit to 
thrive. Cruywagens Kraal is an old Hottentot station, 
in a pleasant, fruitful valley, with a supply of water 
from a fountain, but now only used for pasture. A con- 
siderable number of oxen were feeding upon it. As we 
ascended the hill, an extensive view of the Zwartland 
presented itself, appearing like a heathy and desolate 
plain, with a few scattered farms. The mountains of 
Tulbach and Rodesand lay in the back ground, the 
highest of which was covered with snow. After cross- 
ing the head of the valley, we turned towards that part 
of the Lauweskloof hill, where Brother Schmitt, in the 
year 1811, had an encounter with a tyger. I had been 
very desirous to visit that spot in his company, where he 
might describe to me all the particulars of that terrible 
conflict. Though a pretty full account of it is inserted 
in the Periodical Accounts of the Missions of the Breth- 
ren, vol. v. p. 118, in an extract of a letter from his wife 
to me, yet 1 believe I shall not be thought to trespass on 
the patience of my readers, if I repeat it here, as related 
to me by himself, standing on the scene of action. 

Wolves having done much mischief at Groenekloof, 
where they even entered the yard and took away a 
sheep, and in the fields worried several boasts belonging 

.30 



298 JOURNAL OF A 

to the Hottentots, an attempt was made, on the 6th of 
August, to find out their haunts, and, if possible, to de- 
stroy them. For that purpose, the missionaries Bonatz 
and Schmitt, with about thirty Hottentots, set out early 
in the morning, towards the Lauweskloof hill, where 
they are mostly met with. One of these animals was 
seen and lamed by a shot, but escaped and entered the 
bushes. The Hottentots followed, but the missionaries, 
not expecting to succeed, were returning, when the 
party called to them, that the wounded wolf was in 
the thicket. Brother Schmitt, rode back, and alight- 
ing, entered with a Hottentot of the name of Philip 
Moses. The dog started some animal, which those with- 
in the bushes could not see; but the Hottentots remain- 
ing on the outside, perceiving it to be a tyger, called aloud 
to the missionary to return. He therefore, with Philip, 
began to retreat backwards, pointing his gun, and ready 
to fire, in case the animal made his appearance. 
Suddenly a tyger sprang forward, but from a quarter not 
expected, and by a flying leap over the bushes, fastened 
upon the Hottentot, seizing his nose and face with claws 
and teeth. I measured the distance of the place, from 
whence the tyger made his spring, to that on which the 
Hottentot stood, and found it full twenty (eet^ over bushes 
from six to eight feet high. Brother Schmitt observed, 
that if it had not been for the horror of the scene, it 
would have been a most amusing sight, to behold the en- 
raged creature fly, like a bird, over that length of ground 
and bushes, with open jaw and lashing tail, screaming 
with the greatest violence. Poor Philip was thrown 
down, and in the conflict lay now upon, and then under, 
the tyger. The missionary might easily have effected his 
escape, but his own safety never entered his thoughts. 
Duty and pity made him instantly run forward to the as- 
sistance of the sufferer. He pointed his gun, but the mo- 
tions of both the Hottentot and the tyger, in rolling 
about and struggling, were so swift, that he durst not 
venture to pull the trigger, lest he should injure Philip. 
The tyger, perceiving him take aim, instantly quitted his 
hold, worked himself from under the Hottentot, and flew 
like lightning upon Brother Schmitt As the gun was 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 299 

of no use in such close quarters, he let it fall, and pre- 
sented his left arm, to shield his face. The tjger instant- 
ly seized it with his jaw, Brother Schmitt with the same 
arm catching one of his paws, to prevent his outstretched 
claws from reaching his body. With the other paw, 
however, the tjger continued striking towards his breast, 
and tearing his clothes. Both fell in the scuffle and pro- 
videntially, in such a position, that the missionary's knee, 
without design, came to rest on the pit of the tyger's sto- 
mach. At the same time, he grasped the animal's throat 
with his right hand, keeping him down with all his might. 
The seizure of his throat, made the tyger instantly let 
go his hold, but not before Brother Schmitt had received 
another bite, nearer the elbow. His face lay right over 
that of the tyger's, whose open mouth, from the pressure 
of his wind-pipe, sent forth the most hideous, hoarse, aneJ 
convulsive groans, while his starting eyes, like live coals, 
seemed to flash with fire. 

In this situation. Brother Schmitt called aloud to the 
Hottentots^ to come to his rescue, for his strength was 
fast failing, rage and agony supplying to the animal ex- 
traordinary force, in his attempts to disengage himself. 
The Hottentots at length ventured to enter the thicket, 
and one of them, snatching the loaded gun, which lay on 
the ground, presented it and shot the tyger, under the 
missionary's hand, right through the heart. His death 
was instantaneous, his eyes shut, his jaw fell, and he lay 
motionless. Had any life been left, his dying struggles 
might yet have proved fatal to some of his assailants. 

Then first Brother Schmitt began to feel the extent of 
the injury done to his arm, but his chief concern was to 
know, how poor Philip had fared. He found, that he 
had exerted himself to rise and help his teacher; but his 
face being terribly lacerated, and his eyes filled with 
blood, he could not render any assistance. Horses being 
provided, they were both brought home. 

Sister Schmitt instantly despatched a messenger to 
Capetown, to request the attendance of Dr. Cairns, of 
the Naval Hospital. The doctor was so much engaged, 
that he could not come, till after three days had eJapsecJ. 
Meanwhile, the Brethren bad done all in their power to 



300 JOURNAL OP A 

afford relief, but ^vithout success. The fever and inflfim 
mation increased daily. The patient grew dehrious, and 
told me, that in his delirium, nothing appeared so dread- 
ful to him, as the picture of the tygcr^s open jaws and 
fiery eyes, presented to his disordered imagination. He 
thought himself still in that position. On the arrival of 
Dr. Cairns, every possible means were used to bring 
down the inflammation. There were seven deep wounds 
in the arm. In two or three places, the tyger's fangs 
had penetrated into the bone. For several weeks, the 
life of this valuable man w as in the greatest danger, but 
by God*s blessing on the unwearied exertions of Dr. 
Cairns, and the excellent nursing of his faithful wife, he 
recovered. 

Standing in the thicket, while I w^as listening to my 
friend's account of his adventure, the sun was fast sink- 
ing towards the horizon : lengthened shades and evening 
gloom overspread the place; imagination began its 
work : we thought we heard something stirring among 
the bushes, and retreating faster than we had entered, 
mounted our horses, and made the best of our way 
down a rough road, towards the few Hottentot houses 
in the vale. 

About a month after the event here related had taken 
place, a Groenekloof Hottentot, passing through the 
same thicket, saw a large male tyger crouching beneath 
a bush, and hoped to be able to shoot it, but his g;un 
missed tire. The tyger, however, lay still, keeping his 
eyes lixed upon the man, who was glad to retreat back- 
wards and make his escape. 

Having^ reached the little poplar wood in the vale, 
Brother fechmitt showed me the place where Brother 
Kohrhammer, on visiting this spot in 1807, by desire of 
the Earl of Caledon, delivered the first sermon to about 
an hundred Heathen Hottentots, then inhabiting the 
Lauweskloot. He stood under a tree, and his congrega- 
tion near a pool of w ater in the wood. 

Here we were accosted by an old woman, the most 
us:ly and detormed Hottentot female I had ever beheld. 
She told us, that a slave, by a charm, had destroyed her 
beauty, and caused her face to exhibit such bulbous ex- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 301 

crescences. Brother Schmitt, who knew her, replied^ 
that she ought not to endeavour to set her conscience to 
rest with that idle and wicked tale, but rather repent of 
her profligate life, by which she had brought misery and 
ugliness upon herself. She called God to witness, that 
the stories told and believed, respecting her wicked life, 
were totally false, and used such language, that one 
might have supposed her to have been under Christian 
instruction, whereas she is a sworn enemy of the gospel, 
and never would even enter the chapel at Groenekloof 

We next called upon old Captain Klapmus, who inha- 
bits a miserable bondhoek, though he aflects to behave 
with all the pride of a man of consequence. To see this 
poor blind man, groping his way out of his dark abode 
to bid us welcome, was a truly pitiable sight. Still more 
tlind as to those things which are of most importance to 
the soul, he now paid no attention to Brother Schmitt's 
friendly invitation to come to Groenekloof. The mis- 
sionary reminded him of his daughter's baptism, and the 
hopes then entertained by us all, that he would follow 
her example, and, in his old age, turn to the Lord. He 
excused himself with a lameness in his back, but all good 
impression, made upon him at that time, seemed to have 
vanished. Yet he expressed himself pleased and thank- 
ful for our visit 

Earth-hogs had made approaches towards his hut, 
which they seemed disposed to undermine. Several of 
their holes were not far off, and being aware of the dan- 
ger, he made some inquiry about them. We advised him, 
either to get his |>eople to destroy them, or to remove 
his hut, as otherwise, before he was aware, he and the 
old woman that attended him, might be suddenly let down 
alive into their sepulchral caverns. 

These singular creatures are about as large as a com- 
mon pig. They have a long snout, long sharp claws, 
very little hair, and a rough skin. Their food is the 
ants, and probably other insects. The ants carry their 
nests under ground, sometimes to a depth of from live to 
eiglit and more feet. The earth-hogs therefore follow 
them, and, putting in their long tongue, draw them out 
and devour them. The holes made bv these creatures. 



3,02 JOURNAL OF A 

are often hid among the bushes, and a huntsman cross- 
ing the waste, may meet with an unexpected overthrow, 
either by faUing into them, or by the earth being under- 
mined near the entrance, giving way under the horse's 
feet 

During this ride, I was likewise made attentive to a 
bird, improperly called a lark, • It is about the size of a 
lark, flies up with a rustling noise, rises to a moderate 
height, and lying on its wings, descends, uttering a 
mournful whoop or whistle. Its melancholy note pro- 
duces the reverse of the cheering effect of the spirited 
song of our European larks. 

The sugar-bush grows plentifully in the wilderness, 
and in increasing quantity. It has a magnificent flower, 
and the wood and roots are good fuel. 

1 6th. Letters from Capetown, mentioning a brig, the 
Brilliant, Captain Young, as likely soon to sail for Eng- 
land, I set out for the Cape, with a sensible Hottentot for 
my groom, about eight o'clock. I contrived to converse 
with him during the journey in Dutch, and found con- 
siderable entertainment in the remarks he made on vari- 
ous subjects. 

Many tortoises crawl about the waste. They are not 
large, generally from six to eight inches long. A small 
species called Patlooper, is from four to five inches. In 
warm weather, incHning to rain, they are often seen 
crawling from one bush to another across the road. Ob- 
serving to my Hottentot, that they were the best pro- 
tected of all the innoxious animals of this howlino- wil- 
derness, he was of a different opinion. The jackals, he 
replied, watch for the young tortoises, crack their tender 
shell as easily as a nut, and devour them: again, the 
crows attack the larger ones, as they are passing over a 
place, unprotected by bushes, turn them over, and by in- 
serting their long bills into the open parts of the shell, 
seize their feet and heads, and most dexterously contrive, 
by degrees, to pick out the whole animal. Of that most 
venomous reptile,* the puffadder, he gave me several 
strange accounts, hardly to be credited. It is said, that 
the production of the young brood is the death of the 
dam. as they begin their murderous career, by gnawing 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 303' 

their way out. of her body. 1 should not mentton thb 
circumstance, if 1 had not heard it asserted by men of 
credit. 

We baited at a farm, belonging to a Mr. Monnick, 
who was absent. I walked about the premises, and 
found some curious varieties of ferruginous sand-stone, 
in scattered fragments. Near theRiet valley, we met a 
Groenekloof Hottentot, Immanuel, returning with hi* 
wagon from Capetown. He very civilly alighted, and 
came up to me, but forgot to deliver a parcel of letters 
he had for me. I gladly pardoned his forgetfuloess, 
^"which was altogether the consequence of extreme mo- 
desty. He is one of the most obliging, sensible, well- 
behaved men, I have ever met with in any country. Often 
have I admired the manner in which he performed every 
part of his office, as a chapel-servant; and in his family 
and intercourse with mankind, he is a pattern of good 
conduct. 

As we were about to ford the Soute Revier, which 
was rather swollen, we were overtaken by a butcher in 
his cart or curricle,^ driving six horses in hand. As he 
had seen me at Groenekloof^ he hailed and oifered me a 
seat, to bring me dry through the river, of which I ac- 
cepted. The Cape butchers are considered to be some 
of the richest men in the country. They fetch their cat- 
tle from the interior, pay little for them, run the risk 
of getting them safe to town, and sell the meat at a high 
price. 

With my worthy Cape friends I found a cordial wel- 
come. 

17th. A passage to England was offered me on board 
the Revolutionaire frigate, but though I was assured, 
that the man of war w^ould bring me much sooner home, 
I felt some misgiving ab©ut accepting the offer. The 
evening was most agreeably spent with the Rev. Mr. 
Hesse. 

18th. This morning I met Captain Young of the Bril- 
liant, by appointment, on the pier. We had long to wait 
for the boat, and were meanwhile joined by Mr. and 
Mrs. Shaw, belonging to Mr. Wesley's connexion, and 
sent out on a Mission to the Namaquas. The Captain 



304 JOURNAL OF A 

invited them to go on board. The Brilliant is a very 
fine brig, and I soon made up my mind to engage a pas- 
sage on board her, both for myself and Brother Bo- 
natz's son, having promised the parents to take him 
with me. 

Three boats were towing a whale into the bay, and 
on our return to shore, we rowed up to it, and took a 
view of this enormous fish. It was a female, and pro- 
nounced to be but young. She lay on her back, and 
measured about twenty-five feet in length, and ten in 
breadth across the middle. Having pushed the boat 
between a fin and the body, we took off a number of 
white, round, living animals, of the barnacle kind, about 
an inch in diameter, cleaving to her skin ; as likewise a 
creature armed with fangs and tweezers, said to be a 
whale-louse. The whales frequent these bays chiefly 
to spawn, and almost all those caught here are females. 

The delay occasioned by this circumstance, prevented 
my accompanying the Rev. Mr. Hesse and his family to 
the residence of Mr. Zorn, late landdrost of the Cape 
district. Mr. Polemau, however, took me out in his gig. 
I met there Mr. Bresler, formerly landdrost of Graaf 
Reynet, and Mr. Matthiesen, a member of the Court of 
Justice. I was glad of an opportunity of expressing the 
thanks of our Society to Mr. Zorn, for the kindness he 
always showed to our missionaries, when they first oc- 
^cupied Groenekloof. The afternoon was pleasantly 
spent, and we all returned to town on foot. The night 
was warm, and the heavens brilliantly bespangled with 
stars. But for the absence of the leaves of the oaks, 
poplars, and other foreign trees, the weather about this 
time was equal to the finest summer-weather in Europe. 

Mr. Hesse walking with me, we entered into much in- 
teresting conversation concerning the difference, more of 
expressions and forms, than of opinions and doctrines, 
which distinguish the Lutheran and the Brethren's 
Churches. He thought, however, that there existed 
some material difference, as to our views of certain re- 
ligious tenets, and that, at least, the Brethren had ex- 
pressed their sentiments very unintelligibly. This is 
granted to have been the case in former times, for which 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 305 

many apologies have passed unnoticed. But as to those 
peculiar doctrines, which constitute the very essence of 
Christianity, the divinity and atonement of Christ, salva- 
tion by grace alone, justification by faith, and the neces- 
sity of a walk conformable to the word of God, we and 
all true believers of every denomination, have always 
agreed, however we may otherwise difler in non-essen- 
tials. The more the former are valued, and practically 
known, the farther the latter will recede into the back- 
ground. 

1 9th. This forenoon, I accompanied the Rev. Mr. 
Hesse to the free-school, which is conducted on Dr. Bell's 
plan. We saw the scholars write and cipher. 

Mr. Matthiesen had invited the whole of Mr. Zorn's 
yesterday's party, with others, to dinner at his house in 
de Heere-Kracht, near the parade. With him and Mr. 
Zorn I had much conversation, concerning the present 
state and future prospects of this colony. They differed 
widely in their opinions, respecting the policy of present 
measures, but both seemed to be equally desirous of pro- 
moting their country's welfare. 

20th. This forenoon I visited my pleasant ship's-com- 
panion, Mr. Buck. He had been on a hunting expedi- 
tion to Saldanha bay, and informed me that he and his 
party had shot a hundred and six antelopes. This 
led once more to a subject, frequently discussed on board 
the Albion, the useless waste of animal life. Very few 
of these antelopes could become food, either for the 
huntsmen or their dogs ; the rest were left miserably to 
perish in the wilderness, killed or maimed, merely to 
gratify the momentary vanity of being a good marksman. 
But is not this disposition in mankind owing to a diabo- 
lical influence ? The least that can be said of it, is this, 
that it belongs to those inordinate desires, which, for a 
time, seem to suppress all proper feeling, even in a heart 
otherwise benevolent and kind. 

To-day I was introduced by Mr. Alexander to Mr. 
Dash wood, the proprietor of a farm, called Gaensekraal, 
near Groenekloof 

21st. Having promised the Rev. Mr. Hesse that I 
would play the organ during the morning-service, at the 

30 



# 



306 JOURNAL OF A 

Lutheran church, I went early, but found the great or- 
gan quite out of tune, and was obliged to be contented 
with the choir-organ and swell. A hundred dollars per 
annum is paid to a person to keep it in order. I spent 
the whole day with my reverend friend-and his family, 
and, in the evening, took a short ride with them to Sea 
Point and Green Point, on the coast, west of the Lion's 
head. 

Since the English have been here, the great consump- 
tion of grain had encouraged many inhabitants to culti- 
vate the land between the mountains and the sea, though 
rather unfruitful, the sward of earth upon the rocks 
being only between one and two feet in thickness. 
Trees, therefore, will not thrive, but the situation is 
well studded with small neat houses and villas, and with 
gardens and hedges of low bushes. Mr. Alexander's 
premises on Green Point exhibit some very beautiful 
geraniums, from three to four feet in height. Here we 
alighted, and walked to the rocks. Limpets, of from 
four to five inches in diameter, cleave to them, which, 
when cleaned and polished, have brilliant colours. At 
Sea Point, the rocks are chiefly granite, in huge masses, 
or in strata. Blue schistus appears to lie under them, 
and inserts itself into the fissures and crevices of the 
granite. Some men of science here insist upon it, that 
this schistus is the ground-work of all these mountains, 
and that the Lion's head and other granite mountains 
are strata lying upon it. 1 will not attempt to decide 
the question, from the imperfect observation I had an 
opportunity of making. The situation we had visited, 
not having a single spring of fresh water in it, is denomi- 
nated, De Kleene Zwartland. The inhabitants either 
collect rain-water, or send for water to the town. The 
coast is a favourite promenade of the town's-people, and 
we met several parties on foot, or in carriages. 

22d. Having paid short morning-visits to some friends, 
I took leave of my kind hostess^ Mrs. Disandt, about ten 
o'clock, and left Capetown, in company of Mr. Melville, 
on horseback, intending to reach Groenekloof to-night. 
We halted at a farmer's house, to the right of the main 
ro.^d^ but, not finding him at home, would not be trouble- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 307 

some to his family. A dead ox, just skinned, lay near 
the house-door, a sight not well calculated to create an 
appetite, nor to give a very elevated idea of the gentility 
of the inhabitants. We therefore, after a short rest, 
proceeded, trusting to the strength and patient abstemi- 
ousness of our horses, and reached Groenekloof early in 
the morning. 

23d. Brother Fritsch's birthday was celebrated by the 
Hottentots and the family, nearly in the same manner as 
mentioned page 99. In the afternoon, he accompanied 
me to some eminences, about two or three miles north 
of the settlement. Upon the first, a curious assemblage 
of large blocks of granite form a mass of a singular 
kind; some, of a pyramidal form, stand upright, others 
lie horizontally. The interstices between them are filled 
with many kinds of bushes, and a variety of plants, inte- 
resting to a botanist. The second is called the Bavians- 
terg, belonging to the Groenekloof estate. Its summit 
is likewise covered with rocks and masses of granite, 
among high bushes. I was made particularly.attentive 
to the great quantity of olive-bushes growing upon it, 
some of which have stems six or eight inches in diameter, 
and rise to twelve or more feet in height. A variety of 
the speckboom attracted my notice. The stem and 
boughs are easily broken, having hardly the consistency 
of a carrot or parsnip; the leaf is light-green, waxy, 
oval, and about two inches by one in surface.. The 
whole upper part of the hill or hills, of which the 
Baviansberg consists, is covered with a wilderness of 
every kind of bush and shrub, common to this country, 
forming an almost impenetrable thicket. In endeavour- 
ing to penetrate into it, to have a nearer view of some of 
the rocks, we soon found resistance made to our pro- 
gress by thorny plants of various kinds, particularly by 
one, called Warn en beetgen^ or " Stop a little,'' as it 
catches the stockings, or some other part of dress, and 
patience is required to extricate one's self from its barbed 
hold. Some thorns lie low enough to tear away shoe- 
strings or knee-bands, and others penetrate the skin. 
We were glad, after much trouble, to get back into the 
r>pad. 



308 JOURNAL OF A 

On the Hartebeest Kopf hill, we found several of our 
people busily at work^ sowing corn. Their manner of 
doing it is singular. They first cast the corn upon the 
waste, then plough over it ; but as they seldom plough 
as much land as they overcast, the seed, thus exposed 
during the night, becomes the prey of birds or field-mice, 
which they patiently suffer. When I represented to 
them the injury they sustained, they insisted upon it, 
that it must be so done in this country, and endeavoured 
to explain the reason, which 1 must confess myself too 
dull to have comprehended. 

The harrow they use is a triangular frame, formed of 
three pieces of wood, furnished with teeth, four or six 
inches asunder, and doing very little execution. But pre- 
judice defends even this bungling contrivance. 

I observed in that part of the waste, over which I walk- 
ed to-day, a great quantity of Vlachdorn, a decoction of 
which is so useful in the stranguary, as mentioned above, 
(page 262.) But its use is hardly known in these parts, 
where many an ox dies of that horrid disease. 

My conversation with Brother Fritsch, led me better 
to understand many subjects connected with the peculiar 
circun^stances and situation of this missionary establish- 
ment ; and I may here observe, that the confidence, with 
which all the Brethren treated me, both here and at 
Gnadenthal, contributed more to that knowledge which 
I obtained of the external and internal state of the Mis- 
sion, than any official statements, I feel myself truly 
thankful for their unreserved communications. 

The Groenekloof farm comprehends a large lot of 
ground. The Hottentots enjoy the benefit of it, and 
keep, altogether, about four hundred head of cattle ; but 
as to paying any, the most reasonable, consideration for 
their fields, gardens, and other advantages, it never en- 
ters into their thoughts. Hitherto, the Mission must bear 
^11 expenses, but by degrees, they should be taught to 
understand the justice and necessity of paying a small 
rent, to cover expenses, incurred merely for their sakes. 

26th. Having received from Capetown the leadenrbox, 
meant to contain the writing to be placed in the founda- 
VipR-stpne, Brother Schnaitt weijt with me to the hill near 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 309 

the ravine, where, having fixed upon a large block of gra- 
nite, he marked the square hole to be cut into it, to con- 
tain the box. The Hottentot mason set about it very 
dexterously. 

At home, I was busily employed both with correspon- 
dence, and other affairs relating to the Mission. Towards 
evening it began to rain hard, and the wind rose conside- 
rably. During the night the gale increased. 

27 th. The new wall of the dwelling-house, now rebuild- 
ing, was so much injured, that great part of the new 
work must be taken down. Mr. Melville returned to us. 

In the evening, Carl Stompje, came express from Gna- 
denthal, by the short road over the Fransche Hoek, in 
two days and a half, and brought the news of the decease 
of Father Schwinn, on the 25th, early. Though, when 
I left Gnadenthal, he seemed to be fast declining, under 
a complication of disorders, yet we did not so soon expect 
his final release, and felt deeply affected on reading the 
letters received from our brethren, containing a circum- 
stantial account of his last illness and departure, and of 
the great sensation produced among the Hottentot con- 
gregation by this event. 

When, in 1792, leave was granted by the Dutch Go- 
vernment, to renew the Mission, he, with his two col- 
leagues, Marsveld and Kuehnel, arrived at the Cape in 
November of the same year. On the 24th of December, 
they fixed upon the spot, where the first founder of the 
Mission, the late George Schmidt, had resided in 1737. 
The deceased visited Germany in 1799, but returned to 
his station in 1800. 

He was a man of a remarkably cheerful and active 
mind, and possessed great courage and firmness. His 
public ministry was distinguished by many bold and con- 
vincing testimonies of his taith, which he delivered with 
peculiar energy, speaking from the abundance of his 
heart, with demonstration of the Spirit, and conviction to 
the hearts of his hearers. The Christian Hottentots will 
always revere his rxnemory. He baptized three hundred 
and thirty-two persons, old and young, many of whom 
have departed before him in the faith of Christ. 

Qn the afternoon of the day of his departure, the 



310 JOURNAL OF A 

mournful event was announced to the congregation by 
Brother Clemens, and caused many tears to flow. The 
Hottentots were afterwards admitted, in order, into the 
chamber, to see the corpse of their beloved teacher. 
They reminded each other of many exhortations given 
them by him, on so many occasions, and mourned as 
over the loss of a father. 

On the day preceding the funeral, a great number as- 
sembled around the corpse, and under the grove before 
the door, and sung hymns expressive of the happiness 
of those, who depart this life, trusting in the merits of 
their Redeemer, and of the blessedness of that commu- 
nion of saints, which unites all true believers with the 
spirits of just men made perfect. 

The funeral was attended by a crowded congregation, 
and by many neighbours, who highly respeeted the 
character of the deceased. Many more would have 
joined the company, had the river Sonderend been ford- 
able at the time. Brother P. Leitner delivered the fune- 
ral discourse on Rev. v. 13, 14, and the strictest order 
and attention was maintained throughout the whole of 
the service. 

28th. The congregation at Groenekloof was likewise 
much affected, on being informed this morning, at church, 
of the loss the Mission had sustained by the departure of 
Father Schwinn. They expressed their sorrow v/ith 
many tears. 

In the afternoon, two persons were baptized. The 
bumble, but fervent manner, in which the solemn ques- 
tions put to the catechumens are answered by them, 
again affected me so much, that some exertion of mind 
\Yas required to permit me to attend to the ceremonial 
of the transaction. 

After they had returned thanks, as is their usual cus- 
tom, the husband of the baptized woman, being yet un- 
baptized, but a man of orderly conduct, came to the 
missionaries, to express his gratitude for the favour 
granted to his wife, whom he earnestly wished to fol- 
low in obtaining the same privilege. This was rather 
unusual ; for, in general, they cannot well bear a partner 
to precede, in any advance in the church. During the 



■'m-. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 311 

night, the gale increased to a violent storm. It blew 
down the vine-bower before the dwelling-house, but did 
no more damage to the new building. 

29th. Carl Stompje set out on his return, notwith- 
standing the unfavourable appearance of the weather, 
loaded with letters for Gnadenthal. During the day, it 
rained and hailed much, and towards evening, we were 
alarmed for the safety of our roofs. A violent squall, 
with lightning, thunder, and hail, some of the stones 
being as large as a walnut, passed over us. The hail 
seemed to be whirled about by the violence of the wind, 
and tore a part of the reed-thatch from the roof. The 
cessation of the storm was almost instantaneous. About 
midnight all was still. Till then, the lightning was re- 
markably vivid. 

31st. The Governor called here in his way to the 
Groote Post. His Excellency informed us, that, during 
the late violent gale, the Revolutionaire frigate, the 
Zebra, and some more ships, in Simon's bay, had been 
driven on shore, as likewise two ships in Table bay. 
This is an uncommon effect of a storm at the Cape, 
for, as the land is very high, between Simon's and 
Table bay, the one is generally considered safe, when 
the wind sets into the other ; but, on this occasion, the 
storm was more like a hurricane, the wind shifting seven 
ral times to different points. 



312 JOURNAL OF A 



CHAPTER XX. 

Hard frost. Account of Sister SchmMs school. Visit to 
the Governor at the Groote Post. Destruction of trees 
by Hottentots. Their diligence at work among the rocks. 
Jlnts'^ nests^ used as ovens- Quarry. Aloe garden de- 
stroyed. Cuytges^ salamanders^ and serpents found. Foun- 
dation of the new church. Zaccheus Deba^ a Caffre from 
Gnadenthal. Journey to Capetown. Reflections on the en- 
joyment of earthly comforts. Mr. Sieurvogel. Capetown 
dogs. Rev. Dr. Jones^ Senior chaplain. Apologies not 
attended to. Mr. Slabberfs wagon and ten horses. Yel- 
low finches. Chameleons. Elephant-stones. AIoy-Mack^s 
Revier. Farewell discourse. Laying the foujidatton-^ 
stone of the new church. Mr. Schroeder. Dacha^ a 
poisonous plant. 

August 1st. It had frozen very hard last night, and the 
ice was in some places nearly an inch thick. The air, 
however, was perfectly clear, and the sun shone warm. 
As I was making a sketch of the rocks behind the stables, 
Sister Schmitt's school-girls came towards me, one carry- 
ing a plate, with a piece of ice in it, fast melting in the 
sun. They asked me, whether the water, flowing from 
the ice, might be drank with safety, as they thought that 
it was poisonous. I gave them some information on the 
subject, and when I described the quantity and thickness 
of the ice in the northern regions, and told them of the 
immense ice-mountains and fields, floating in the ocean, I 
perceived, by their astonished looks, that, had they not 
thought one of their teachers incapable of falsehood or 
exaggeration, they would have suspected me of sporting 
w^ith their credulity. 

These children are from ten to fourteen years old, and 
instructed, out of pure charity, by Sister Schmitt, in sa- 
tin-stitch, tambour, and plain work. It is surprising, with 
what neatness they have learned to execute it. When 
Sister Schmitt first arrived at Groenekloof, and saw the 
wretched state of most of the Hottentot children, it ex- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 313 

ceedingly distressed her, and having perceived, that 
most ofthe Hottentot women are good seamstresses, and 
teach their girls early the use ofthe needle, it occurred 
to her mind, that they might soon learn to work satin- 
stitch, which she herself perfectly well understood. She 
therefore tried the experiment with one or two, and suc- 
ceeding, added more to the number. By these means^ 
she taught the children to earn their own bread, and 
even to afford relief to their poor parents.^ Her country- 
woman. Sister Leitner, has done the same atGnadenthaL 

Being invited to dine with the Governor at the Groote 
Post, I met there Captain Cloete, Mr. Bentinck, and Mr. 
Ward. We were spending the afternoon very pleasant- 
ly, when a despatch announced to his Excellency the 
death of his brother at Lisbon. Some time after he had 
left the room, he sent the letter for our perusal. The 
mournful news was heard by the company with sincere 
sympathy, and we spent the remainder of the day in si« 
lence and reading. 

2d. While I was waiting for my horse, to return to 
Groenekloof, the Governor, coming into the room, de- 
sired me to spend the day with him. I had much con- 
versation with his Excellency, concerning various sub- 
jects, and thought my time not unprofitably spent. He 
kindly acceded to some proposals, laid before him, tend- 
ing to remove unpleasant disagreements between neigh- 
bours. 

During the forenoon, Mr. Croucher, by his orders, 
showed me a new plough, made of cast iron, worked with 
only two horses, or four, if more depth of furrows is re- 
quired, without holding the shafts. He wished me to 
recommend it to our missionaries. In the evening, I took 
a solitary walk to the hills, and went up to some rocks, 
or large fragments of granite. They form a good fore- 
ground to a view of the Groote Post, lying in the plain. 
The Table-Mountain and its companions adorn the 
horizon. 

3d. I set out early, and was followed by the Gover- 
nor, who, after breakfast, passed through Groenekloof, 
on his return to Capetown. He was in better health 
and spirits. 1 had caught a violent cold, and felt unwelL, 

40 



314 JOURNAL OF 4 

But a packet of letters from England made me forget all 
indisposition. 

5th. In the afternoon, visiting some Hottentot families. 
I observed an unfinished house, the v^alls of stone, and 
well built, and inquired into the reason of its being left 
in that state, when I found, that it was owing to a want of 
wood for the doors, roof, and furniture. This led to an 
explanation respecting the possession of the wood, and 
prevented the poor people appealing to the landdrost 
against the overseer, who had very properly prohibited 
their cutting wood at their pleasure, by which, formerly, 
a great many trees have been destroyed. Till better 
instructed, the Hottentots have no thought beyond the 
present moment, and being too lazy to stoop aiwl apply 
their axe to the bottom of the stem, they chop it off as 
high as they can stand to it, besides maiming others by 
cutting off their branches, or tops, without any attention 
to the growth of the tree. The general scarcity of wood 
makes it therefore highly necessary to prevent such mis- 
chief, and as they may have what wood they want, to 
build their huts, if they only apply to the overseer, there 
is no hardship in their asking for it. They were satisfi^ 
ed, when Brother Schmitt explained the matter to them. 

In the evening, the family met to a consultation re- 
specting the commencement of the building of the new 
church, and the means of providing food anddwelhng for 
any additional hands. 

6th. To-day we began to carry stones from the rocks 
behind the stables, to lay the foundation of the church, 
and I was much pleased to see the zeal and spirit, with 
which the Hottentots went to work. There w^as indeed 
a good deal of amusement connected with it, which, with 
them, is a great stimulus to exertion. Many very large 
stones were dislodged, and dragged to the building, on a 
strong sledge, by ten oxen. In separating two parts of 
an immense block, which, by some violence not account- 
ed for, had a crack right through the middle, a nest of 
ar ts of the largest size was laid open. They were from 
half, to near three quarters of an inch long. Almost 
every stone seemed to afford protection to larger or 
smafiler ants. They differed from those, which raise 



w 



VISIT TO SOtJtH AFRICA* 315 

solid nests of clay in all parts of the wilderness, in shape 
like a baker's oven, and used for that purpose in the in- 
'terior. The Caffres, when first permitted to settle at 
Gnadenthal, before they could build ovens, according to 
the custom of their country, availed themselves of these 
tumuli, and having expelled or destroyed the inhabitants 
by fire and smoke, scooped them out hollow, leaving a 
crust of a few inches in thickness, and used them for ba- 
king, putting in three loaves at a time. The clay of 
which the nests are formed, is so well prepared by these 
industrious insects, that it is used for the floors of rooms, 
both by Hottentots and farmers. 

7th. The people continued their work at the stones as 
long as the weather remained fine, and I frequently ac*- 
companied Brother Schmitt, when he attended them. 
No European labourers could work with greater dili- 
gence and effect. We had engaged a Dambra Hotten*- 
tot, called Ephraim, to work in a quarry at the top of 
the eminence, where the granite was split into irregular 
strata, nearly in a perpendicular direction. The quarry 
yielded good stone for building walls. The large masses 
above ground, were of a harder texture than the stones 
under the surface. Thin layers of schistus cleaved to 
some part of the latter. Ephraim distinguished himself 
by his steadiness and persevering diligence. The Dam- 
bras differ much in their manners from the Hottentots of 
this country, they are of a more swarthy complexion, 
and have features better formed. 

When a large stone was dislodged, I generally 
met with something deserving attention. To-day I saw, 
for the first time, that singular animal, called by the Hot- 
tentots the mountain-salamander. It is shaped like a li- 
zard, but broader, seven or eight inches long, and scaly. 
The scales on the tail are pointed, and stand off from the 
body, but whether generally, or only in fright or anger, 
I cannot tell. A nest of young cuytges was uncovered. 
This is a small species of newt or asker ; its bite is said 
to be very venomous, and as it lodges in old thatch, the 
Hottentots are very cautious in taking down an old roof. 
Ur^der some of the stones we found caterpillars, black and 
hairy. 



316 JOURNAL OF A 

By the operation of grubbing up, and removing these 
stones, which may have lain there since the deluge, many 
flovi^ers, much beautiful shrubbery, and a great quantity 
of aloes, were destroyed. 1 defended them as long as I 
could, but was obliged to submit to the necessity of using 
the stones. The ground was strewed with flowers and 
bulbs, shattered aloe-leaves and beautiful plants, but 
I was assured, for my comfort, that, after a short rest, 
the earth would bring forth abundantly, and the aloes 
and fahlblar again adorn the spot. By far the greater 
part of the masses of stone, being beyond the power of 
man to move, they still present a singular and beautiful 
group of rocks, and the removal of the smaller fragments, 
laying the larger masses more open, gave them more 
picturesque dignity. 

9th. Brother Bonatz, after the meeting for instruction, 
having proposed to the men, that they should begin to 
dig the foundation of the church, they immediately fell 
to work, with great alacrity. 

The ground opened easily, but some remnants of old 
walls were discovered, the farm-house belonging to the 
Dutch Company having occupied this spot, previous to 
the building of the present dwelling-house. At the west 
corner, water appeared, not proceeding from a spring, 
but oozing out of a sandy stratum. Beneath the sand 
Was a layer of a kind of pipe-clay, and to this we were 
obliged to penetrate, to get a firm foundation. In the 
afternoon, I visited several families in the village. 

10th. After breakfast, I went to the people at work 
among the rocks. Between two large flat stones, one 
laying on the other, leaving a small space between them, 
we discovered the nest of the serpent, called here, cobra 
di capella. A Hottentot lad, who had fortified himself 
against the poison of a serpent's bite, was called, and 
took out three young ones. One of them I put into a 
bottle of brandy. We had scarcely disposed of them, 
before a bergadder made his appearance. It was seized 
by the neck, and sent after the cobra di capella, into the 
bottle. Under the same stone, a scorpion, and several 
large spiders were found. In the evening, Ephraim 
killed and sent me a young Nachtschlange, or night-ser- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 317 

pent, beautifully marked with yellow, vermilion, and 
dark-blue rings. 

11th. Many Hottentots attended the public service. 
Brother Schmitt delivered an animated discourse on the 
gospel of the day; and in his prayer commended the 
building of the new church, and all who take share in 
it, to the blessing and protection of our Heavenly 
Father. 

12th. Mr. Melville surprised us very agreeably, by 
his unexpected arrival. 1 delivered to him the Govern- 
or's order, to make a diagram of this place, by which I 
had the satisfaction to detain him. To-day, a Caffre, 
Zaccheus Deba, arrived here from Gnadenthal, with let- 
iers and journals. The letters from our missionaries 
described the impression made upon the Hottentots, by 
the departure of their beloved Father Schwinn, as very 
great. They still wept tears of remorse, when they 
ealled to mind his affectionate zeal and admonitions, and 
his tender concern for the salvation of their souls, and 
for their improvement in all things that adorn the Chris- 
tian character. We hope that the effect pf this contri- 
tion will be salutary and permanent. 

13th. Being a memorial-day in the Church of the Uni- 
ted Brethren, it was celebrated with due solemnity. At 
nine we met in the chapel. I had never seen this place 
so well filled, nor a more attentive auditory. Every 
bench was crowded, and the children sat on the ground. 
Brother Schmitt delivered a suitable discourse, in which 
he introduced a most luminous, and, even to Hottentots, 
intelligible, account of the event which gave rise to 
this festival. (^See Crantz^s History of the Brethren. Part 
I. p. 115.) 

Mr. and Mrs. Slabbert were present, on their return 
from the Cape, and expressed great satisfaction and asto- 
nishment at the devout behaviour of the congregation. 
He informed us, that the sailing of the Brilliant was put 
off till the 7th of September; a delay which I then much 
regretted. 

In the evening, the Holy Communion was administer- 
ed, the Missionaries having previously met, to encourage 
each other to brotherly love, and that union oi spirit, 



318 JOURNAL OF A 

without which the best intentions, plans, and talents, 
remain unprofitable in the service of God; for only 
" where brethren dwell together in unity, there the Lord 
commandeth his blessing." 

14th. In the evening, the CafFre, Zaccheus Deba, 
came into my room, to take the letters I had written to 
GnadenthaL One object he had in view, in offering 
himself to go as messenger to Groenekloof, was to see 
me once more, and to tell me, that his wife had departed 
this life, rejoicing in God her Saviour. He added, that 
before her departure, she had particularly requested 
to be remembered to me, with that assurance, that she 
had continued to pray for me, that the Lord would bless 
me, and grant me a safe passage to England. 1 felt 
thankful for the prayers of this worthy woman, whom I 
had frequently seen, and conversed with, and knew as a 
very exemplary character. The mild, humble deport- 
ment of Zaccheus, was particularly noticed by a gentle- 
man present. 

15th. I accompanied Mr. Melville to Capetown. We 
proceeded gently, engaged in pleasant conversation, and 
were seven hours on the road. At Mr. Melville's house, 
we found two gentlemen, just arrived from Van Diemen's 
Land. They gave an entertaining account of that earthly 
paradise. 

It would be tedious to relate, in order, all the various 
occupations and visits, by which my time was employed, 
during my present stay at Capetown. I will, therefore, 
only observe, that the society of my friends, the Disandt 
family, Mr. Hancke, Mr. Poleman, and the reverend 
Mr. Hesse, proved a source of great enjoyment to my 
mind. 

18th. I attended divine worship, at the Lutheran 
church. The organist played more soberly than usual, 
but could not refrain from performing a very brilliant 
rondo, from one of Haydn's symphonies, when the ser- 
vice was over. I felt the impropriety of introducing it 
into the church, but could not help admiring the very 
great dexterity with which he executed the most difficult 
passages, and made them tell on the organ. I was dis- 



I 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 319 

leased with myself, for not being more displeased with 
ira. 

With a very highly esteemed friend, I had a conver- 
sation on several subjects, which made a deep impres- 
sion upon me. Being rather of an anxious turn of mind, 
he expressed surprise at the confidence and cheerfulness 
of some Christians. He related, that he was educated 
in the celebrated Paedagogium at Halle in Saxony, 
where, contrary to the intention of its founders, he and 
others were taught to entertain scruples concerning the 
principal doctrines of Christianity, and to explain away 
those scriptures, which the JYeologen^ or Socinians and 
Deists, found to bear against their favourite opinions. But 
as he could find no comfort and peace in the new doctrines 
of self-enhghtened men, he began well to consider those 
which they had rejected, and, by slow degrees, seemed 
to obtain more faith in them, and to consider them as the 
basis of all sound religion. He wished, however, to 
know my views of that real and convincing experience 
of the efficacy of faith in Jesus, and the atonement made 
for sin, which a true believer o»ght to possess. I gave 
him a plain and faithful account of the manner, in which 
" it pleased God to reveal his Son in me," though natu- 
rally averse to religion, falsely supposing, that it tended 
to check all cheerfulness, and the enjoyment of the plea- 
sures of this life, whereas I now knew, that the only 
way to live happy, and innocently to enjoy that good, 
which God has left to us in this world, as " a witness for 
himself,'' for our use, improvement, and comfort, was to 
make sure, that He is our Father, Friend, and Deliverer 
from the curse and punishment of sin, as declared in the 
Gospel. 

My friend observed, that ever since he had become ac- 
quainted with me, he had wondered how a man of so 
lively a disposition, could belong to a community so re- 
cluse and religious as that of the Church of the Brethren, 
in which there were so many checks, by particular rules 
and regulations, against the ways of the world, and 
its pleasures and amusements. He added, however, 
that, in general, he had always found those members 
of our Church, with whom he had become acquainted, 



320 JOURNAL OP A 

lively and cheerful people, and attentive to the inno- 
cent means of making their lives and dwellings on 
earth comfortable. This led to a consideration of 
the effects of true conversion of heart, when a man is 
turned from the love of the world and sin to his 
God and Saviour, and has his " conversation in hea- 
ven." To him it is no act of painful self-denial to 
avoid the things that lead from God, and no punish- 
ment to be excluded from them. Surely no one has 
more reason to be happy and contented than the man 
who expects, that better things than those, which he 
now possesses, will shortly be his portion : he uses the 
world, yet as not abusing or cleaving to it; and 
enjoys all the gifts of his Creator with a thankful heart 
But I felt, that I ought to take his remark as a kin^ 
admonition, to beware, lest too much vivacity and at- 
tention to objects, which afford pleasure to the mind, 
and engage the activity of the intellectual part of 
man, though sinless in themselves, should sometimes lead 
to forgetfulness of higher and more important spiritual 
concerns. 

With his Excellency the Governor, 1 had an opportu- 
nity of conversing on some arrangements at Groenekloof, 
by which real service was done to the Mission. From 
Colonel Bird, I experienced the same kindness. 

Brother Schmitt found Mr. Sieurvogel, a timber-mer- 
chant, disposed most honourably to abide by a verbal 
agreement respecting the price of the timber, wanted 
for the building of the church at Groenekloof, though by 
the loss of his vessel, the Young Phoenix, in the late 
storm, tuHber had risen considerably in price. But a 
conscientious man needs no legal tie, to bind him to a 
promise. 

For several nights I was much disturbed in my sleep 
by the continual barking and howhng of dogs in the 
street, about which the inhabitants seem not to trouble 
themselves. A large number of these animals have no 
masters, but find food, shelter, and places to litter in, 
wherever they can. The people go and pick out such 
puppies as they think will turn out well, and leave the 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 321 

rest The heavy rain may have been troublesome to 
these stray-dogs, and the cause of their nightly vocifera- 
tions. 

Before I left Capetown, I visited the Rev. Mr. Thorn, 
employed by the Missionary Society in London, with 
whom I had much friendly conversation, concerning the 
state of their, and our Missions. I also waited upon the 
Senior Chaplain, the Rev. Dr. Jones, who returned to 
the Cape some time ago. His services to the colony 
have been highly beneficial, especially as it regards the 
improvement of schools. To his benevolent exertions, 
we owe the building of the school-house at Gnadenthal, 
and the introduction of Dr. Bell's plan of teaching, as 
far as it is practicable among Hottentot children. 

Brother Schmitt engaged a master-builder, Mr. 
Schroeder, to undertake the building of the new church 
at Groenekloof, who advised us to make as many bricks 
as we could. 

After a very pleasant visit, having transacted all our 
business with satisfaction, we took leave of our worthy 
friend and hospitable hostess, Mrs. Disandt, and return- 
ed, on the 

22d, to Groenekloof with Mr. Slabbert, in his travel- 
ling wagon, he driving ten horses in hand. The four 
nearest to the wagon are guided by a servant with reins, 
while his master, sitting beside him on the box, governs 
the other six, by a dexterous use of the long whip. 

23d. I was engaged with packing, intending to send a,ll 
our baggage on board the Brilliant, which, as the Cap- 
tain informed us, would be ready to sail by the «ftth of 
September. The Hottentots had not forgotten the bot- 
tle of serpents, but brought me a young pufFadder, and 
three chameleons. The chameleons were found in the 
nest of a yellow finch. The poplar wood at Groenekloof 
abounds with these nests. They are like bags, suspend- 
ed from the ends of the smaller branches of trees, to 
render them secure against serpents and vermin, but 
the chameleons had contrived to dislodge the poor birds, 
and seize upon the nest. The lateness of the sea- 
son prevented my taking any animals alive. My 
friends had provided for me several tortoises, chameleons, 

41 



322 JOURNAL OF A 

fresh water turtles, (a gmall turtle about four inches 
square,) and even a 3^oung baboon. 

25th. In the afternoon the whole family, accompanied 
by Mr. Melville, visited the Oliphants' Klippen, (Ele- 
phants' stones,) near the Klaberfalg, Mr. Duckett's farm. 
They are detached masses of granite, erect, or in a lean- 
ing posture, situated in a valley, as if they had been 
thrown from an adjoining hill, or rather, left there by 
the washing away of the ground, when the valley was 
formed. Every eminence in this neighbourhood also, is 
crowned with a collection of stoqes, forming a kind of 
rock among the bushes. Many beautiful flowers were 
now beginning to peep out, as the spring was fast ad- 
vancing. 

26th. Mr. Melville's wagon conveyed all my heavy 
baggage to Capetown. In the afternoon. Brother Bo- 
natz accompanied me on a visit to that part of the set-' 
tlement called Moy Mack's Revier, which lies to the 
right of the Cape road, on entering the farm. A small 
stream passes through it, crosses the road, and, skirting 
the little wood, helps to irrigate the grounds in that part 
of the village under the hill. 

The cottages are of the meaner kind : the gardens 
slope down towards the brook: the soil is a dry sand, 
and will require much culture, before it is turned into a 
fruitful mould. Peter, a Dambra Hottentot, has the best 
garden, and is an active man. The people seemed much 
pleased with our visit. We then went to the upper row 
of cottages, to the left of the road, and there saw a 
woman upwards of a hundred years old. Sister Schraitt, 
who had joined us, accosted her, but she appeared quite 
stupid. Her children and grandchildren live with her. 
She had been an inhabitant for six years, but seemed 
perfectly indifferent about religion. Of late, how- 
ever, she sometimes asked a person, in whom she had 
confidence, whether it were still possible for her to be 
saved. 

The people now begin to dig in their grounds, and in 
a short time they will look well. But for want of 
hedges, they cannot prevent their neighbours' cattle 
from entering their grounds, which sometimes produces 



Visit TO SOUTH AI'RICJA. 32S 

great uneasiness. Since, by the Governor's kindness, the 
boundary is now defined, and there need be no more 
contention about the wood, 1 endeavoured to impress 
upon the people the necessity of attending to the mak- 
ing of hedges, and that plantations should be promoted 
as much as possible, yet under proper regulations, that 
there may be no useless waste, or even destruction of the 
young trees, by improper* treatment, Mr. Croucher, 
who visited us about this time, gave the best advice^ 
being well versed in the management of woods. 

27th. We visited that part of the village which we 
could not reach yesterday, for the inhabitants would have 
been greatly disappointed and grieved, if 1 had not called 
at every house and hut. In the evening, a couple were 
married at the church. 

30th. Our friend, Mr. Slabbert, returning from the 
Cape, brought with him the master-builder, Mr. Schroe- 
der. With the latter, Mr. Melville and I conferred 
about the plan of the new church. In the valley to the 
north of the farm, we sought and found brick-earth, and^ 
on examination of the premises, Mr. Schroeder declared^ 
to our great satisfaction, that every facility existed here 
within reach: good clay for bricks, a sufficient quan*^ 
tity of stone, water, and the right sort of sand. He also 
pronounced the pipe-clay under the sand, to be a good 
foundation. 

I read my farewell-address this evening to a crowded 
auditory. After I had finished. Brother Bonatz took 
the chair; and, after making some observations on my 
visit and voyage, concluded with prayer, commending 
me and his son Adolph to the protection and blessing of 
the Lord. 

31st. This was the day appointed for laying the foun- 
dation-stone of the new church. The ceremony took place 
at 10 A. M. Early in the mornings a number of Hotten-* 
tots had conveyed the stone from the hill to the spot 
They delighted in the work, and there was no want df 
hands. The stone was of a triangular shape, its south 
side, four feet five inches; east side, three feet six inches; 
north-east side, five feet six inches ; and one foot four 



324 JOURNAL OF A 

inches in thickness. A square hole had been punched into 
it, to hold the leaden box, with the writing. 

The service was conducted in the following manner : 
Brother Schmitt opened it with that hymn;^^ASm^ hallelu- 
jah^ honour^ praise^ &c. and then addressed the congrega- 
tion in a suitable discourse. The people stood, both 
about the ditch, and within the space enclosed. He then 
read the texts of Scripture appointed for the day ; ^'' Re- 
joice^ because your names are wiitten in heaven, Luke x. 10. 
Many^ O Lord my God^ are Thy wonderful works^ which 
Thou hast done^ and Thy thoughts which are to us-ward: they 
cannot be reckoned up in oi'der unto Thee : if I would declare 
and speak of them^ they are more than can be numbered. Ps. 
xl. 5.'' Brother Fritsch read the Dutch translation of the 
contents of the parchment, which he held in his hand, 
and having delivered it to me, I placed it in the leaden 
box; Brother Stein deposited it in the foundation-stone. 
Mr. Schroeder followed, put a fiat stone over it, and gave 
a stroke upon it with a mallet. Each of us followed, re- 
peating the stroke, as is usually done on such occasions. 
A verse being sung, Brother Bonatz, kneeling upon the 
stone, offered up a prayer. The congregation then sung 
that hymn, JYow let us praise the Lord^ &c. and the bless- 
ing being pronounced, the assembly dispersed. 

It was a solemn and delightful service. The Hotten- 
tots seemed fixed to their places in attention and devo- 
tion ; and several friends, who were present, expressed 
their admiration both of their behaviour, their joyful 
songs of praise, and their fervent expressions of grati- 
tude to -God for the mercies bestowed upon them. A 
spirit of joy and gladness prevailed on this occasion, 
which, by God's blessing, gave a new stimulus to the ex- 
ertions of all engaged in the building, and contributed 
not a little to its completion, in a manner which has given 
general satisfaction. 

Mr. Schroeder, having given us some good advice, left 
us in the afternoon. We met this evening to make ar- 
rangements previous to my departure. 

There is in this country a plant, called by the Hotten- 
tots Dacha, a species of wild hemp, (cicuta.) Some of 
, them smoke it like tobacco, or mix it witli the latter herb, 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 325 

and are exceedingly fond of it. Its effects upon the hu- 
man body are dreadful. It not only takes away the sen- 
ses for a season, even more completely than drunkenness^ 
but, by degrees, undermines the constitution, weakens 
every faculty of mind and body, and makes cripples of 
those that continue in the practice. It is necessary, 
therefore, that most determined resistance should be 
made against this destructive propensity, and by a rule 
estabhshed in our settlements, the use of dacha is to be 
entirely abandoned. Whoever is guilty of smoking it, 
is excluded ; but a seducer of others to the abominable 
practice, expelled. The chief complaint against the 
Hottentots is, that they are incorrigibly lazy, and unfit 
for labour. In most instances, the cause of it is the use 
of this poisonous herb. Who would believe, therefore, 
that the very men who complain, should encourage the 
growth of it in their grounds, and sell it to the Hottentots ! 
Yet this I have seen with my own eyes, even where I 
least suspected it. 

September 1st. Being Sunday, the Hottentots came in 
parties, between the services, to take leave of me^ and 
with many of them I entered into pleasant conversation. 
There Were some good spokesmen among them, who ex- 
pressed the sentiments of their brethren in very affec- 
tionate terms. Two Dambras, Ephraim and Peter, gave 
me particular satisfaction, by the modest, unaffected man- 
ner, in which they declared their gratitude and good- 
will. 

In the afternoon, all the missionaries met, when I had 
an opportunity of delivering my sentiments to them con- 
cerning the Mission in general, and their situation in par- 
ticular. In the evening, the Lord's Supper was adminis- 
tered to the communicant congregation, at which I assist- 
ed. If I were to express my feelings on this occasion, it 
would be but a repetition of what I have written concern- 
ing my last communion at Gnadenthal. The appearance, 
devotion, and attention of the Hottentot congregation at 
this place, was anew the subject of my admiration and 
thanksgiving for such a miracle of God's power and 
mercy. 



326 JOURNAL OP A 



CHAPTER XXL 

Departurefrom Groenekloof. Detained at Veldcornet Ver^ 
wey. The Governor'' s offer of a passage in the Zebra sloop 
of war. Consequent arrangements. Visit to^ and de- 
scription of Constantia. Its Vineyards^ cellars^ and beau-- 
tiful situation. Return to Groenekloof 

September 2d was the day, when I expected to close 
my abode at Groenekloof. The visits of the Hottentots 
continued to the last moment before my departure. Mr. 
StoU, the landdrost of the Cape district, arriving here in 
the forenoon, expressed great satisfaction with the pre- 
sent state and progress of the Mission. He has always 
approved himself a friend, readj to give advice and as- 
sistance. 

Jacob Conrad, a Hottentot, of his own accord, offered 
his spann of eight horses, to convey me and my travel- 
ling companions to Capetown ; and as his wagon was a 
very inconvenient vehicle, Mr. Melville, who had given us 
the pleasure of his company for several days, lent us his 
travelHng wagon. 

After dinner, the family met in my room, and after a 
short address by Brother Bonatz, commended me and my 
young companion Adolph, to the grace and protection 
of God our Saviour, on our journey and voyage to En- 
gland. A considerable number of Hottentots had mean- 
while assembled before the door, with every one of 
whom I shook hands, and bid them farewell, not ex- 
pecting that I should so soon see them again. While 
we were entering the wagon, they sung a farewell-hymn, 
and accompanied us for about two miles, to Papkulls- 
fonteyn, not intimidated by the rain, which kept us shut 
up in the wagon. 

Sister Bonatz having taken an affectionate leave of her 
son Adolph, returned with the Hottentots, and the Bre- 
thren Fntsch and Stein. Her husband, and Brother 
Schmitt and his wife, accompanied us to the Cape. Mr. 
Melville rode on, to bespeak a night's lodging for us at 
the Veldcornet Mr. Verwey's, where we met with a cor- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 327 

dial welcome, and good accommodations. It blew and 
rained hard all night, and in the morning of the 

3d, we found it impossible to proceed. We were, 
however, well housed, in good spirits, and, contrary to 
expectation, spent the day very pleasantly, as each felt 
disposed. 

An old man, going from place to place, to teach 
the children reading, writing, and ciphering, but not 
good manners, which are not required, was at this time 
an inmate of the house, and, like most of these itinerant 
schoolmasters, seemed to lay down the law on all ques- 
tions of importance. It would be cruel and unwise to 
detract from their consequence or authority, by inter- 
ference or contradiction. 

The rain ceasing for an hour in the afternoon, we 
went to see the little Sout Revier, (Salt river,) which, 
even in winter, is but a small stream, but now, by the 
heavy rain, was swollen into a very deep and rapid tor- 
rent of considerable breadth. It is chieny owing to the 
want of the smaller streams and brooks, which, in Europe, 
descending from the hills, intersect the plains in all 
directions, that South Africa remains, and I fear must, 
in a great degree, remain a wilderness. After all the 
observations I have been able to make and to collect, 
during my journey through great part of the colony, I 
must ascribe this deficiency to the character of the South 
African mountains. Almost all their summits consist of 
precipitous rocks. Very little earth, consequently very 
few morasses are found upon them, and the rain, which 
is abundant in the rainy season, instead of falling on a 
spongy soil, retaining the water for a considerable time, 
and gradually dealing it out in rivulets and brooks, 
dashes with violence, from the rocks, down the steep 
declivities, and in destructive torrents sweeps along the 
kloofs and valleys, frequently and suddenly destroying 
the labours of many years in places, where, in summer. 
a small streamlet scarcely furnishes water suflicient for 
the use of a family. The bushes, covering a great part 
of the waste, preserve, by their shade, some moisture on 
the ground, and are providentially furnished with roots 
of disproportionate thickness, which, imbibing the water, 



328 JOURNAL OF A 

give them sustenance, and maintain their verdure in the 
dry season. It is also said, that in many beds of tor- 
rents, by digging, water may be found, though the heat 
of the sun has banished all appearance of it from the 
surface. 

4th. Though the rain had continued violent all night, 
we ventured to proceed. Heavy showers occurred all 
day; but when we proposed to spend the night at the 
Riet Valley, the friendly farmer advised us rather to 
push on, and, avoiding the Drift, which was by this time 
an unsafe fording-place, to cross the Sandhills, and drive 
along the beach. We followed his advice, found the 
beach a good hard road, and though the surf looked 
rather wild, and in some places rushed in upon us as 
high as the axle-trees, we got on well, Mr. Melville and 
his groom Jephtha riding before us. By God's mercy, 
we passed safely through the little Drift, and the broad 
sheet of water at the Great Salt river, which were both 
of considerable depth. 

5th. My friend, Mr. Hancke, informed me, that owing 
to the rough weather, the Brilliant had not been able 
to take all her cargo on board, and would not sail as 
soon as first intended. All our baggage was yet on 
shore, which afterwards proved of advantage to me. 

I was engaged all day in visiting my friends. At the 
Colonial Office I called upon Colonel Bird to thank him 
for the many civilities experienced from him during my 
stay in the colony. The Governor was not at home, 
but in the evening, wrote a note to inquire, whether I 
would return to England in the Zebra sloop of war. In 
answer, I informed his Excellency, that I had taken my 
passage on board the Brilliant brig. Captain Young. 

We spent a very pleasant evening with the Rev. Mr. 
Hesse, where we met the Rev. Mr. Thom, who declar- 
ed his intention of making a journey into the interior, to 
visit Kango cave, and endeavour to ascertain the geo- 
graphical position of sundry places. His object also was 
to preach to the Hottentots and slaves, wherever he 
might find an opportunity, 

6th. After breakfast, having received a note from his 
Excellency, I waited upon him at the Government-house. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 329 

He observed, that he deserved no thanks for offering me^ 
a passage on board the Zebra, as he was seeking his 
own profit by it, wishing me to accompany his son Flan- 
tagenet, who was going to England in that vessel. I 
felt greatly distressed not to be able immediately to com- 
ply with his wish, the more so, as it was my duty to 
show, by every means consistent with prior obligations^ 
my gratitude to him for the great kindness he had shown 
me, during my stay in the colony. The engagement I 
had made with Captain Young was easily dissolved, but 
my promise to take home the son of my friend Bonatz 
seemed an insurmountable obstacle. It is needless here 
to enter into a detail of the conversations and negotia- 
tions that passed on this subject, suffice it to say, that 
though the father's disappointment and uneasiness were 
great, on first mentioning to him his Excellency's pro- 
posals, yet as both he, and the rest of my companions, 
were desirous that I might yield to the Governor's 
wishes, an arrangement was made, by which I was set 
at liberty, to the entire satisfaction of the father, to w hom 
I considered myself bound by previous promise. The 
Captain was a man, in whose faithfulness he could place 
full rehance, and a family, going home as passengers on 
board the Brilliant, were wiHing to pay every attention 
to his son. Having paid the Captain half of the passage- 
money, I put myself under the direction of the Governor^ 
and of Captain Henry Forbes, commander of the Zebra^ 
to whom his Excellency had previously introduced me* 
The Zebra was to sail on the 20th. 

8th. Though the termination of this affair had been 
completely satisfactory to all parties, yet some gloomy 
thoughts continued to haunt my mind, regarding the ex- 
traordinary situation, into which I had been so unexpect- 
edly thrown. Nor did I willingly part with my young 
friend Adolph, whose affectionate disposition and good 
sense had made his constant attendance in my various 
walks about Groenekloof very pleasant to me. But as I 
verily believe that nothing happens to me, but by the 
permission of God, to whom I have fully committed my- 
self in all my ways, I endeavoured to "cast my burden 
upon the Lord," and to believe, that all things would 

4^ 



330 JOURNAL OF A 

work together for my good. Of this I have now made 
full experience. 

Mr. and Mrs. Melville set out this morning for Groene- 
kloof After thej^ were gone, we went to the parade, 
where the military were drawn up to receive General 
Sir Alexander Campbell. 1 spent a good part of the 
forenoon with Mr. Polenian, in whose company I always 
receive much pleasure and information. We dined at 
home, to celebrate Mr. Grant's birthday, and spent the 
evening most agreeably with the Rev. Mr. Hesse. He 
and his family were going into the country, and fearing 
that I should not see them again, I took leave of them. 

9th. This day was devoted to a trip to Constantia. 
Mr. Hancke was the contriver and director of this ex- 
cursion. He had provided two sociables and six. The 
company consisted of Mr. Hancke, a lady of his acquaint- 
ance. Brother Schmitt and his wife, Brother Bonatz and 
his son, and myself We set out at six o'clock, and took 
the road by Newlands. The weather was delightful. 
The oaks and other foreign trees were fast getting into 
leaf, and throughout all nature, spring showed itself 
swiftly approaching. 

Our conductor ordered the carriages to proceed by a 
road, which gave us a view of several romantic situations. 
We passed through the Wynberg-camp, a place I was 
glad to see, as having been the residence of our late 
i^issionary, P. Kohrhammer, when, in 1805, he was ap- 
pointed Chaplain to the Hottentot regiment by Governor 
Jansen. The camp lies in an elevated situation, and is 
considered the most healthy spot in the neighbourhood 
of Capetown. The soldiers are quartered in barracks. 
An extensive prospect opens from hence across the 
Cape Downs, towards the mountains of Stellenbosgh and 
Simon's Bay. 

About half past nine we arrived at the house of Mr. 
Colin, one of the proprietors of Constantia and soq-in- 
law to Mr. Cloete, by whose family we were kindly and 
hospitably received. After a short introductory conver- 
sation, we walked out to see the gardens. They lie in 
a hollow, below the house, and are laid out in tlxe Dutch 
style, with a covered walk. The vineyards are situated 



VISIT TO SOUTH APRICA. 331 

on an eminence, gently sloping towards the east Many 
of the vines are old, and will be removed next year, to 
make room for others. They are without spaliers or 
poles, standing singly, like currant-bushes in a garden. 
The rich, sweet, Constantia vine grows only within a 
certain boundary. Mr. Colin, junior, pointed out a 
hedge, behind which, all attempts to raise the same 
grape have failed. 

We now walked across part of a farm, belonging to 
Mr. Sebastian Van Rhenen, who is preparing to make^ 
vineyards, and hopes, in a few years, successfully to vie 
with Messrs. Cloete and Colin, as he supposes the soil to 
be of the same quality. On the road we met a Hottentot 
boy, who had just killed a black serpent, about five feet 
long, and an inch and a half in diameter. 

After a pleasant walk, we reached Mrs. Van Hel- 
stinge's house. The old lady received us very politely, 
and insisted upon our tasting all the different wines made 
on her property. Among them were Hahnen Pootgen, 
white and red ; Frontiniac ; Klipp-wine, and another, of 
a rough taste. From her garden, a charming view pre- 
sents itself A narrow, woody glen, with a pretty villa 
at the farther end, belonging to one of her relations, runs 
up to the south-east side of the Table Mountain. Over 
the woods to the left, are seen the rocks and mountains 
forming Hout-bay. Near the dwelling, an avenue of 
large oaks affords some shade, but little attention has 
been paid, either to convenience or elegance. 

We returned through a forest of Witteboom, in which 
the late storm had done much mischief Many hundred 
trees were thrown down, or torn up by the roots. On 
our return, Mr. Colin took us into his cellar, or rather 
warehouse, a long building, containing casks holding 
several tuns of wine, standing upon racks, in rows, down 
each side, leaving a wide passage between them. In the 
centre stands a table, set round with sophas and chairs, 
where the company is regaled with some of the choicest 
Constantia, at the fountain-head. 

After dinner, as soon as the cloth was removed, a 
merry fellow entered the room, took a chair, and seat- 
ing himself between two ladies, began to talk, laugh. 



333 JOURNAL OF A 

and drink wine, as if he were one of the party. This 
man was an old slave, of a frolicsome turn, kept for the 
amusement of the family. He addressed me, in gib- 
berish, which I did not understand, but suppose I lost 
no instruction by it. Though his office seemed to be 
that of a jester, kept to fill up the vacuities occurring in 
African conversation, his presence was very annoying. 
Much rather would we have seen the natural grimaces 
and tricks of a tame baboon, generally holding the same 
situation with many farmers in the interior, than such a 
prostitution of human intellect. 

After dinner, we visited Mr. Cloete. His house, which 
is not far from that of his son-in-law, is situated on an 
eminence, commanding an extensive prospect over the 
Cape Downs, to the Hangeklip, on False-bay. The 
house and premises are well built, and prove the long- 
existing wealth of the owners. 

Constantia was built and settled by the celebrated 
Governor Van Stell, the founder of Stellenbosch, who, 
by his superior sense and liberal mind, proved a great 
promoter of the welfare of this colony. He named the 
place Constantia, in honour of his wife, that being her 
Christian name. He was a man of great activity; en- 
terprising, and generous. Many of the best situations in 
the colony owe their origin to him. But it is said, that 
the Company gained nothing under him, as he studied 
only his own private interest. Be it so ; they have, how- 
ever, been great gainers by the effects of his industry, 
and, no doubt, he deserved to reap the benefit of his 
talents, while he lived. Two statues, in niches, one over 
the door of the mansion, and the other over the cellar- 
door, are intended to represent the lady Constantia. 

After walking out to see the vineyards, which are 
very extensive, we spent an hour in pleasant conversa-^ 
tion. The cellar is constructed lik^ that of Mr. Colin, 
and his wine not superior. 

Adjoining the cellar, is a room with a billiard-table. 
From the back-door, a flight of stone steps leads to a 
l^rook in a close vale. 

Mr. Cloete has always been a friend to the missionaries 
^t Groenekloof, and vyas some time ago their neighbour^ 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 333 

He is now lame, and thought that he could not return 
the visit at Groenekloof. 

A large grove of old oaks, planted in quincunx, affords 
shade to the premises, and the plantations are kept ia 
good order. There is an appearance of ancient gran- 
deur about the place, v^^hich pleased us much. In the 
hall stands a stalactite, taken out of a cave near Caledon, 
about eight or nine feet in length. It is set upon its 
broad top, and narrowing fast towards the middle, made 
a Dutchman think that its beauty consisted in its resem- 
blance to a huge candlestick, with the candle in it. That 
vitiated taste, however, is fast declining among the 
Dutch, and nature is no longer outraged as formerly, 
when trees and hedges, cut into all manner of shapes, 
constituted the beauty of a Dutch garden. At this ab- 
surdity we Enghsh laugh, while we are committing a far 
greater outrage, in cruelly maiming horses, dogs, and 
cats, by cutting off their tails and ears, to improve their 
beauty ! 

After taking a dish of tea in the English fashion, we 
bid adieu to our hospitable host, and returned to town. 
The evening of this bright and very hot day, turned out 
so cold, that we were glad to get soon housed, and com- 
fortably seated at Mrs. Disandt's fireside. 

10th. I had a long conversation at the Government- 
house with the Rev. Mr. Hough, and afterwards with his 
Excellency in his study. We dined with Mr. Sebastian 
Van Rhenen, and spent the rest of the day agreeably 
with our friends. 

12th. I dined with the Governor. A mail having arri- 
ved from England, much interesting intelligence was 
communicated. Captain Forbes informed me, that the 
Zebra would come round to Table-bay at the end of the 
week, and that I might entertain hopes of soon following 
the Brilliant. I then prepared to return to Groenekloof, 
where I intended patiently to wait, till summoned to go 
on board. 

14th. Having paid several short farewell-visits, we left 
Capetown in Mr. Slabbert's wagon, w^ith ten horses in 
hand. 

When we arrived at the Drift, near the Riet Valley^ 



334 JOURNAL OF A 

seven oxen were lying dead on its bank. They belong- 
ed to a wagon with fourteen, which had attempted to cross 
the Drift, when, by advice of the farmer, we took the 
road along the beach, as mentioned above (p. 328.) 
The water being very deep, and the stream too powerful, 
the poor creatures were taken off their feet. The wagon 
was saved with difficulty, and seven of the fourteen oxen 
were drowned. The carcasses had been skinned, and left 
to tbe^wolves and jackals. Our horses took fright at the 
disgusting sight, and set off with us into the bushes, but 
the skill of our driver soon brought them again into order. 



CHAPTER XXIL 

Sailing of the Brilliant. Iron plough. Seacoast near 
GaensekraaL Mr, Dashwood'^s farm. Shells used for lime. 
Account of the Dunen. Waxberry bushes^ and manner of 
boiling wax. Laatste Stuiver. Brick-making. Visit 
Fapkulls'fonteyn^ Wolfskloof Burger'^s post^ and Lange- 
fonteyn. Sand-fies. Arrival of Gnadenthal masons. 
Mr. Melville. Second farewell at Groenekloof. Hotten^ 
tots'^ manner of setting a brick-kiln. Departure from Groe- 
nekloof 

September 15th. My return to Groenekloof was unex- 

Eected ; but I was again welcomed with much cordiality, 
oth by the missionaries and the Hottentots. 
By a letter from Brother Bonatz, we were informed 
that the Brilliant sailed to-day. The sailing of this ves- 
sel raised the first serious disquietude in my mind, as I had 
very slight hopes of soon following and overtaking her, 
before she reached England. Pleasant as my stay at 
the Cape has been, yet, thinking that I had executed my 
commission, I now felt somewhat restless, wishing to re- 
turn to my duties at home. 

17th. I rode with Brother Fritsch to the Groote Post, 
to show him the new iron plough mentioned above, 
(p. 313,) hoping that it might, with advantage, be intro- 
duced at Groenekloof, where agriculture is yet conducted 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 335 

after the Hottentot fashion. Mr. Croucher being absent, 
a Serjeant of dragoons attended us. We looked at seve- 
ral ploughs of English construction, and I was glad to 
be informed, that the manufactory, established here, can- 
not furnish them fast enough for the increasing calls from 
the interior. Some have lately been sent to Uitenhagen. 
This shows an increase of good sense, and a decrease of 
prejudice in favour of the old, clumsy, wooden, Hotten- 
tot plough. 

On our road home, we passed through the Klaberfalg, 
the residence of Mr. Duckett. 

18th. Mr. Duckett, jun. called upon us, with an invi- 
tation from his father to dinner. As I expected every 
day to be my last at Groenekloof, we declined it, but in 
the afternoon. Brother Schmitt took a ride with me to 
his house. The road leads thTough the upper or eastern 
part of the village. After passing the Elephant-stones, the 
valley is narrow, but rich and fertile, and Mr. Duckett, 
being an excellent farmer, makes the most of it. The low- 
hills to the right are adorned with a profusion of wild bush- 
es, with huge blocks of granite, fancifully dispersed among 
them. Their summits are crowned with assemblages of 
the same stone, forming broken rocks. We saw Mr. 
Duckett in his garden, alighted, and joined him. Groene- 
kloof being this year rather scantily supplied with gar- 
den-produce, he kindly offered, out of his abundance, to 
give us what we might send for. 

When we arrived at the house, we were kindly re- 
ceived by Mrs. Duckett, who treated us with the most 
friendly attention. The conversation turned upon im- 
provements in farming, and furnished an opportunity of 
removing some misunderstanding. Perceiving that I was 
an admirer of natural curiosities, Mr. Duckett presented 
me with the tail of a pylstort, (arrow-tail,) a fish caught 
in Simon's-bay. The tail itself is slender, and about 
fourteen inches in length. From the upper part of its in- 
sertion into the body, proceed two sharp bones, serrated 
on both sides, placed above each other, the lower, three, 
the upper, two inches long, which the fish can turn in 
any direction, inflicting a most severe and dangerous 
wound on its enemy. Every tooth of this bony saw acts 



336 JOURNAL OF A 

as a barb, and if once inserted, cannot be extracted witii- 
out great laceration of the flesh. It attacks sharks and 
other large fish with impunity, as all dread the experi- 
ment of having their throats pierced by such formidable 
weapons. The specimen given to me was taken with 
a shark. 

I was glad to have paid this visit, which seemed, for 
the future, to ensure the friendship of a very respectable 
neighbour. 

19th. This morning, Mr. Fisher, the mason, with a 
party of our own Hottentots, and a slave belonging to 
Mr. Schroeder, began to work at the foundation of the 
new church. The huge stones, brought from the aloe- 
garden, now came into use, and were placed in the 
trench. They form a foundation unusually strong. 
Though I was much engaged w^ith writing, I could not 
forbear going out sometimes to see the people at work, 
and was highly gratified with their cheerful diligence. 
In the evening. Brother Bonatz returning from the 
Cape, brought me the unpleasant intelligence, that 
the Zebra would not sail before the beeinnino: of Oc- 

1 O t) 

tober. 

20th. Though it rained all day, our Hottentot masons 
went on with their work at the foundation. In the eve- 
ning, a Government messenger arrived, on his way to 
Saldanha-bay. He had fallen from his horse and hurt his 
thigh and arm, but found here relief and good quarters. 
Two plans of the front of the new church, one proposed 
by the builder, Mr. Schroeder, and the other by Mr. Mel- 
ville, were submitted to the family. The latter, being 
the most tasteful, was unanimously approved ; a decision 
worthy to be imitated by parish-vestries and building- 
committees, in our enlightened country. I was desired 
to write to Gnadenthal and encourage the Hottentots to 
come to the assistance of their brethren in forwarding 
the work. 

21st. Mr. Melville accompanied me on a walk through 
the settlement. We conversed with several families, 
and I thought I perceived a rising disposition for the 
improvement of their grounds, which deserves encourage- 
ment. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 337 

22d. A young woman departed this life in the faith of 
Christ, bearing witness to all present of the happiness of 
those, who find mercy, and obtain assurance of their 
being accepted, through His merits and all-sufficient 
atonement. Her funeral was attended by a numerous 
company. Brother Schmitt addressed himself particu- 
larly to the young people, whom he exhorted to follow 
the example of their deceased friend, to forsake the 
world with its vanities and pollutions, and to press for- 
ward to the attainment of tnat same faith and hope of 
eternal life, which had supported her during a linger- 
ing illness, and in the awful moment of death, and en- 
abled her to leave the world, rejoicing in her God 
and Redeemer. His serious and affectionate discourse 
seemed to make a deep impression on the audience. 
The funeral was conducted with the greatest order 
and devotion, as described in my account of Gnaden- 
thai, (p. 91.) 

23d. Having written a letter to the congregation at 
Gnadenthal, as requested above. Brother Stein set out 
this morning, as our envoy, to convey our wishes to our 
Brethren, and to the Hottentots, in that settlement. 
Immanuel went with him, as groom. The weather 
turning out fine, the Brethren Schmitt and Fritsch ac- 
companied me to Gaensekraal, near the seacoast, on 
a visit to Mr. Dashwood. The road is uninteresting, 
leading through a barren, sandy wilderness, with not a 
cultivated spot on either side. But the bountiful Creator 
has likewise here clothed the waste with an incompara- 
ble profusion of flowers, which, in some places, cover the 
sand between the bushes, as with a rich carpet. We 
discovered several tortoises waddling along, and took up 
five, being varieties of the same species, but of different 
shades of colouring. One was new to us, having pro- 
tuberances on the seams enclosing each compartment ol 
the shell. 

To our great disappointment, we found an empty 
house at Gaensekraal. We therefore left our prey nnd 
our great coats with a dragoon, and proceeded through 
a level country, overgrown with large bushes, to the sea- 
coast. The mole-holes not a little annoyed us and our 

43 



ySB JOURNAL OF A 

horses. Several antelopes started up close to us, and 
the ne3,rer we approached the coast, the more dense 
was the thicket, so as to render it difficult to penetrate 
to the water's edge, which, where nearest, may be about 
two miles from the farm. Many speckbooms, olive, and 
milk-bushes, are intermixed with the rhinoceros bushes, 
in wild Goofusion. The coast is not high, but rocky, with 
a broken beach and sand. A strong westerly wind 
caused a considerable swell and surf, which, after dis- 
mounting on the beach, kept us at a respectful distance 
from the advancing surges. On their retreat, we discor 
vered a fine hard sand, but durst not venture to walk 
upon its smooth surface. An innumerable quantity of 
large muscles coyer the coast every where, mixed here 
and there with the beautiful sea-ear and other shells, 
peculiar to these regions, but all in a broken state. The 
shells are brought by cart-loads to the farms, and burnt 
in kilns, as lime for mortar. The rocks are a dark-gray 
schistus, with narrow veins of quarts. 

Finding it too troublesome to lead the horses more 
than about an English mile over the rough shells and 
pebbles, we returned to Gaensekraal. The sandy road 
exhibited the fresh track of a wolf. This bushy coast is 
infested by wolves and leopards, which commit many de- 
predations in the neighbouring farms. 

While we rested at the house, I wrote a letter to Mr. 
Dashwood, to explain a mistake respecting a strange 
Hottentot in his service, who pretended to belong to 
Groeneklqof. This fellow having been guilty of pilfer- 
ing, in his flight, passing through Groenekloof, left the 
stolen property on the roof of a cottage, which caused 
the inhabitant to be suspected by Mr. Dashwood, as be- 
ing in league with the thief, though quite ignorant of the 
transaction. Mr. Dashwood expressed himself perfectly 
satisfied with the explanation given, and I felt anxious to 
remove the unpleasant impression made by misrepresen- 
tation, purposely employed by a known enemy to the 
Mission, in the mind of a man, who always had been well- 
disposed towards it. 

Gaensekraal is a good farm ; the buildings are supe- 
rior to many in the country, and the grounds extensive. 



VISIT t«0 SOUTH APIllCA;^ 339 

but bare of trees. The little wood, which formerly 
adorned the premises, was cut down, under an idea, that 
it harboured birds, particularly a kind of starlings, that 
do great mischief in the fields. But no where have I 
seen such flights of these birds as in Mr. Dashwood's 
grounds. Thus the place had been robbed of its beauty, 
to little purpose. On our journey home, we did not see 
one tortoise to add to our collection, but some curious 
beetles and lizards. 

24th. Every morning I am greeted by the pleasant 
chirping of two swallows, cock and hen, which have a 
nest in a corner of the room, under the ceiling. There 
is hardly a room, kitchen, or out-house in the country 
without these inmates, and it would be thought next ta 
murder to kill them. They build their nests of clay, in 
the shape of a bottle, the bottom being fixed to the wallf 
and the neck serving for the entrance. Into these bottle- 
shaped nests, they convey the softest down. As far as I 
was able to watch them, both cock and hen assist in the 
construction, or repairs of the nest, which remains for 
their use during their emigration. The same birds al« 
ways return to the same nests, and if it happens, that, by 
white- washing the room, the outside of the nest has beeti 
whitened, they carefully cover about half the length of 
the neck with fresh clay, before they make a new bed* 

As the upper half of the room-door generally stands 
open during the day, they go in and out whenever they 
please, but if the door is shut, they give notice of their 
wish to go abroad, to fetch either materials or food, by a 
gentle piping and flying about the room, and none think 
it too troublesome to let them out. At dawn of day, they 
are heard chirping their morning-song, before they leave 
the nest. I have often left my bed, to open the door for 
them. 

These birds are shaped like the European swallows^ 
but, under their wings, of a red-brown colour. They 
leave the country during the winter. They are persecu- 
ted by a bird called the wild swallow, black and white irt 
colour, which is said to kill the domestic one, and seize 
upon its nest. The wild are on that account shot, or 
otherwise destroyed by the Hottentots* 



340 JOtJRNAL OP A 

This being Sister Schmitf s birth-day, the Hottentots, 
particularly the girls belonging to her school, did every 
thing in their power to show their affection and esteem 
for her, and I was again delighted with the sincere and 
%vell-merited expression of their gratitude for her faith- 
fulness and kindness towards them. 

We had an agreeable visit from Mr. Stoll, landdrost of 
the Cape district, Dr. Liesching, and Mr. Gieh, who 
walked through every part of the settlement with appro- 
bation. It afforded a desirable opportunity of giving 
explanations, and rectifying some erroneous notions. 

25th. Having heard much of the singular appearance 
of the range of Dunen, or sand-hills, along the coast, I 
rode thither with Brother Fritsch, and was struck with 
surprise, when we entered among them. Their appear- 
ance from Groenekloof is rather unpleasant, and not un- 
like a low sandy dyke, skirting the waste in a straight 
line. But I found them occupying a very wide field, ex- 
tending to several miles from the seacoast. The fine 
sand, which is chiefly pulverized quartz, and as white as 
snow, is here blown about, like sleet on a frozen surface, 
forming hillocks of considerable height, and in shape re- 
sembling huge drifts of snow. The flats between them 
are destitute of any verdure, the surface being almost 
constantly in motion. To-day the south-east wind blew 
pretty strong, and small parallel ridges were continually 
forming over the whole surface, by its operation upon the 
sand. In other parts, especially where deep recesses or 
glen^ are defended by the hillocks, the waxberry-bush 
has found shelter, sChd growls in great abundance. To 
a superficial observer, it appears not unlike box. Some 
of the stems are as thick as a man's leg, and the bushes 
from eight to ten ket in height. 

Our path wound round between the hillocks, sometimes 
over soft sand, through which the horses waded heavily, 
and again over a hard bottom, like frozen snow. In a 
deep glen, we saw several of our people from Groene- 
kloof, diligently employed in gathering wax-berries. 
They sent a little boy to show us the way to a place sur- 
rounded by high banks, where they had erected a hut^ 
and kept their apparatus for boiling the berries, and ex- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 341 

tracting the wax. The renters of the neighbouring farms 
claim a right to this property, and our people were re- 
quired to ask their permission to gather the berries. 
Though this had been done, a man had yesterday warn- 
ed off the women engaged in boiling wax ; they had 
therefore hid their iron pot, for fear of seizure. But on 
discovering us to be friends, they produced it, and show- 
ed us the process, which is perfectly simple. The pot is 
hung over the fire, by running a thick stick through its 
handle, which is supported at each end, by a fork placed 
in the ground, at a convenient distance from the fire. 
After the berries have boiled some time, the wax appears 
on the surface of the water, and is skimmed off with a 
spoon. Two kinds of wax-berry bushes grow here, one 
smaller than the other. The berries of both have much 
the appearance of those of the juniper. 

From hence we rode to the Laatste Stuiver, a parcel 
of land containing much sweet grass, and wax-berry 
bushes, for the possession ^f which the missionaries had 
applied to Government, that they and their Hottentots 
might have a change of food for the cattle. But it had 
already been advertised to be disposed of to the best 
bidder. 

27th. In the afternoon, I walked out to see the brick- 
makers. A number of girls had offered their services, 
to place the new-made bricks in rows to dry, and as 
amusement accompanied the work, nothing could exceed 
their diligence. Some, who think working in their fields 
and gardens a labour too great to be supported for any 
length of time, work here and in the quarry, for many hours 
successively, with a zeal, activity, ,and good-humour, 
which surprised me. Hitherto the weather had favoured 
us, but most of the bricks, in drying, cracked by the heat 
of the sun. This was afterwards avoided, by different 
management in mixing the clay. 

During the latter days of the month, I spent my time 
chiefly at my desk, relieved by a daily morning-walk to 
the masons and brick-makers, and an evening's visit to 
the quarry, which proved more and more productive. 

October 2d. Brother Fritsch rode with me to Pap- 
kulls-fonteyn farm, inhabited by a friendly neighbour. 



342 JOURNAL OF A 

We took the road round Cruy vvagens-kraal hill, crowned, 
hke others, with loose masses of granite, som;e of which 
have fanciful shapes. Not finding our friend at home-, 
we conversed some time with the family at the door, 
without quitting our horses. They showed us a young 
cub of a baboon, brought from the mountain, which, of 
all creatures I have yet seen, was the most frightfully 
disgusting object, and in its manners equally unpleasant, 
squeaking, jabbering, and twinkling its eyes in a head 
and wrinkled face too large for the body. 

We kept on the north side of the hills with the im- 
mense waste of Zwartland to our right, and beyond it 
the beautiful ranges of mountains from the Piquetberg to 
the Hangeklip. At the back of the Lauweskloof hill, is 
the Wolfskloof, into which we penetrated as far as we 
were able. The singular rocks or fragments of stone 
lying, or standing upright, either on the summit or de- 
clivity, deserve notice. Cattle were feeding among the 
bushes, and, as the herdsmen informed us, safely, though 
the whole region is considered as the haunt of wolves 
and tygers. Several ledges of rocks, which overhang 
dells, filled with high bushes, form here snug retreats for 
wild beasts of every description. Formerly it was a 
noted haunt, and now and then one of the above-men- 
tioned animals is seen and hunted in the kloof. From 
hence we rode to the Burgers Post, and paid a short 
visit to Mr. Eckstein. On the road. Brother Fritsch was 
thrown from his horse, and we were thankful that no 
harm was done. 

In the afternoon the Governor, with his usual retinue, 
passed through our premises. He informed me that Cap- 
tain Forbes, in going to Simon's bay, had met with a 
severe fall, which would confine him for some days, but 
that the first lieutenant would bring the ship round to 
Table-bay. 

3d. Brother Stein, having returned from Gnadenthal, 
gave us a very interesting account of his visit. Many 
Hottentots, on hearing my letter, had declared their in- 
tention to come and help their brethren here in the build- 
ing of the new church. I much regretted, that I had not 
accompanied him. During the forenoon, I rode with 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. SV3 

Brother Schmitt to Langefonteyn, to pay a farewell-visit 
to our worthy friend, Mr. Dirk Slabbert, but we did not 
find him at home. The sun shining very warm, we were 
much troubled with a species of sand-fly, which fixes 
upon the face, ears, and neck, if not defended by crape 
or some other means, to the great annoyance of tra- 
vellers. 

4th. Our good-natured Hottentots, perceiving that I 
had begun to collect serpents, brought me several kinds, 
among which were the nachtschlange, (night-serpent ;) 
earth-serpent ; eyerfreter, (egg-eater ;) schaapsteker, 
(sheep-stinger ;) and cobra di capella. 

5th. Brother Schmitt went to town, to attend a sale 
of iron, and several articles useful for the building. I had 
the pleasure of Mr. Melville's company, who was still dili- 
gently employed in measuring the whole district ofGroe- 
jnekloof. Several Hottentot workmen arrived from Gna- 
denthal, for whose board and lodging provision had been 
made. They visited all the missionaries on the 

6th, and expressed their willingness to assist in build- 
ing the church, and their happiness to make acquaintance 
with their Groenekloof brethren, in a manner which gave 
me renewed pleasure, for it was a display of that union 
of heart, which exists among real Christians of all classes. 
In their behaviour, that blessed truth seemed, in a great 
degree, established, that the " fruits of the Spirit are 
love, joy, peace, long-suffering, gentleness, goodness, 
faith, meekness, temperance." Nothing surely is more 
encouraging, than to behold these effects of the preach- 
ing of the gospel to the heathen, as sure proofs, that it 
has been received in faith. 

7th. Mr. Melville was obliged to leave us for some 
time. We parted from each other with mutual regret. 
I shall ever remember with gratitude to God, by what 
unforeseen circumstances we were made acquainted with 
each other, that he might be led to accompany us on 
our reconnoitring-journey into the interior. In a variety 
of ways, his presence afforded us assistance, comfort, and 
delight, and I pray, that he may be rewarded with a full 
enjoyment of every temporal and spiritual blessing. 

8th. In the morning, at tvvo o'clock, Brother Schmitt 



344 JOURNAL OP A 

returned from the Cape, and informed me, that the Zebra 
was to sail on Sunday next. This made me resolve to 
go to-morrow to Capetown, to be in readiness. In the 
forenoon, Mr. Slabbert, in his travelling-wagon and ten 
horses, passing through Groenekloof to the Cape, offered 
to take me with him, but the missionaries prevailed upon 
me to decline it, and to follow in the mornmg on horse- 
back : nor was my impatience to proceed homeward 
powerful enough to repress the rising regret I felt at 
parting a second time from friends, endeared to me by 
so many considerations. 

I spent the greater part of the day in once more walk- 
ing through the settlement, and visiting its inhabitants. I 
was accompanied by one or other of the missionaries in 
my different walks. The Hottentots, at work at the 
brick-kiln, gave me a last proof of their attachment to 
old habits. While I was watching their setting it up^ 
a boor, who is much engaged in the same work, came 
riding towards us, and began to take them to task : 
" You must do so and so,'' said he ; " you know nothing 
about setting up a kiln, your bricks will never get burnt, 
&c.'' To every sentence, their answer was, '^ Ya, Myn- 
heer! Ya, Mynheer !" Having finished his lecture, the 
boor rode off in a gallop, but was no sooner out of hearing 
than they began to make their remarks : " That man," 
said they, '' thinks himself very wise, because he is a 
rich boor ; but we must do our own way, or the bricks 
will never be burnt. His bricks are accustomed to his 
way, but our bricks can only be burnt in our way." 
They seem to have been in the right, for I have since 
heard, that their kiln answered perfectly well, and their 
bricks were remarkably good. 

In the evening-meeting at the chapel, Brother Schmitt 
once more commended me to the blessing and protection 
of God, in fervent prayer, and the congregation again 
expressed their best wishes for me. 

9th. I rose, intending to set out early, to prevent any 
stir, but in vain. The Hottentots came early to bid me 
a last adieu, and to show their affection, by every token 
of good-will. Young and old would give me their hands, 
and then joined in singing a farewell-hymn. The mis- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 345 

sionaries likewise assembled, as before, and I truly felt 
the value of their love and intercession. Every one o£ 
ihem has shown the greatest kindness towards me, and 
none with more unabated faithfulness and zeal than 
Brother Schmitt and his wife, w^ith whom I have spent 
most of my time at the Capp, JBut it is time to set bounds 
to my expressions of gratitude towards them, which may 
already appear to some of my readers tedious and im- 
pertinent 

About half past seven o'clock, I left Groenekloof, ac- 
companied by Brother Schmitt as far as Brakfonteyn. 
There I parted from that worthy man, who returned to 
his zealous and indefatigable labours. May God's bless- 
ing attend him yet for many years, with health and 
strength, equal to his devotedness and desire to serve the 
cause of his Saviour, either here, or in any other part of 
South Africa. Brother Fritsch proceeded with me to 
the Cape. We halted about an hour at Mr. Beester's 
house at the Riet Valley, and though it began to rain 
hard, rode on, and arrived, thoroughly soaked, with our 
friends, at Mrs. Disandt's house, where we were receiv- 
ed with their wonted kindness and cordiality. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

Capetown. Visits to friends. Mr. and Mrs. Sheridan. 
Arrangements on board the Zebra. Rev. Mr. Hesse^s 
return to Europe regretted at the Cape. Duties of a 
Lutheran minister. Pedestrian expedition round the 
Lion^s head. Visit the eountry-residences of Messrs. 
Horak^ Beek^ Ziegler and Dr. Liesching. Vieio of the 
coast to the south. Final conversations with the Gover- 
nor. Mr. Wilberforce Bird. Take leave, and go on 
board the Zebra. Manner of receiving the Governor on 
board. 

October 10th. I waited on Captain Forbes at the 
Government-house, and obtained a letter from him to 
the first lieutenant of the Zebra, with which I went on 

44 



346 JOURNAL OF A 

board, accompanied by Mr. Daniel Disandt, and Brother 
Fritsch, to see the accommodations prepared for me. I 
found them quite sufficient for my purpose. By the 
Captain's kind attention to my wishes, 1 had a small 
cabin to retire into, which held my bed, a chair, and 
wash-stand ; besides being with the Captain during the 
day. After my return, I went w^ith Mr. Hancke to pay 
some visits, and spent as much time as I could with my 
worthy friends, the Rev. Mr. Hesse and Mr. Poleman. 
1 dined with the Governor, and there met Mr. and Mrs. 
Sheridan. With the latter, I had much pleasant conver- 
sation. The party then attended an instrumental con- 
cert, given by Mr. Lemming. When we entered the 
hall, ''^ God save the khifr'''^ was played, in honour of his 
Excellency, as the King's representative, I admired 
Mr. Lemming's performance on the violin; the band 
consisted partly of dilettanti. 

11th. Time was too short to attend to all the engage- 
ments made, but we spent a very agreeable afternoon 
with the Rev. Mr. Hesse, Mr. Poleman being of the 
party. 

12th. In the morning, Brother Fritsch returned to 
Groenekloof. I felt a pecuHar pang at parting from the 
last of my dear Cape Brethren. I then walked towards 
the Government-house, to finally settle with Captain 
Forbes about my going on board, but was met by the 
Governor, who informed, me, that precisely at day- 
break, on Wednesday morning, the Zebra would leave 
the bay. This prolongation of time I wished to improve 
as much as possible, in the enjoyment of the company 
and conversation of friends. 

I. 3th. In the forenoon, Mr. Edward Grant and Mr. 
D. Disandt accompanied me on board the Zebra, where 
we met Captain Forbes and several officers. I found 
every attention paid to my convenience. Into my little 
private cabin, sufficient light is admitted by a bull's eye. 

I dined at the Rev. Mr. Hesse's, who entered upon the 
object of his intended return to Europe. Mr. Poleman, 
anxious to retain so valuable a character at the Cape, 
made friendly remonstrances, which led our friend into 
,a detail, to show his reasons for taking such a step. 



ViaiT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 34/ 

Thej were sufficiently cogent. To me it was interest- 
ing, on this occasion, to obtain some information con- 
cerning the duties of a Lutheran minister, which are by 
no means small, nor in their performance optional. Far 
from wishing to withdraw from these obligations, Mr. 
Hesse lamented, that the indifference of the congrega- 
tion had long ago caused many of them, which were for- 
merly considered as of the greatest importance, to be 
abandoned, and that, if the minister were entirely to 
relax in the performance of his duties, it would give to 
most of them very little concern. He is now required once 
a year to visit the families in their dwellings, in company 
of an oudering or deacon. This is generally done about 
Passion-week, but by many of his parishioners considered 
an intrusion. 

They have, however, built a spacious parsonage-house^ 
and a large, handsome church, and, in general, behave 
towards their minister w^ith generous attention to his 
comforts. Externally, therefore, our reverend friend 
had no hopes of a better situation, but that was not his 
object. The state of his health also, and the education 
of his children seemed to require his return. My long 
visit to this colony had made me so far participate in its 
welfare, that I joined Mr. Poleman in his objections, as 
both his congregation, the public, and aur Mission, will 
experience great loss by Mr. Hesse's removal. During 
my last stay at Capetown, I made a point of returning 
home every evening to supper, that I might enjoy the 
society of my worthy hostess, Mrs. Disandt, and her 
family. 

14th. A pedestrian expedition round the Lion's head 
having been planned by Mr. Hancke, we were not deter- 
red by the appearance of a rainy day, but having met at 
Mr. Poleman's house, set out. The company consisted 
of Messrs. Hancke, Poleman, Hesse, and myself. It was 
their intention to reach Weilerskloof to breakfast, but 
we could get no farther than Mr. Schmitt's^ on the north- 
east ascent of the hill. There a heavy shower kept us 
prisoners for some time, when we proceeded, in hopes 
of better weather. The air was clear, and, as we walk- 
ed up the klqof, between the Lion's head and Table- 



348 JOURNAL OF A 

Mountain, we had a good view of the town and bay. 
The summits of the mountains were enveloped in clouds. 
Amends, however, was made by the coolness of the air, 
which made walking pleasant On reaching the top of 
the kloof, an extensive prospect rewards the traveller, 
and the range of rocks and precipices, forming the south- 
west side of Table-Mountain, with the promontories of 
Hout-bay, have a grand appearance. Turning to the 
light, round the Lion's head, we arrived at a villa, be- 
longing to Mr. Horak. This place, given to him by the 
Earl of Caledon, has been greatly improved, by clothing 
the steep ascent with plantations of Witteboom and other 
trees. The gardens surround the circular mansion in 
concentric circles. Behind the house, stone steps lead 
to a picturesque group of rocks. Here, under the shade 
of various trees, planted on every practicable shelf, and 
between the masses of stone, a cool retreat is afforded 
on a hot summer's day. 

After some rest, and pleasant conversation with the 
owner, we continued our walk, on a good road, to the 
villa of Mr. Beck. Rocks of singular shape hover over 
the dwelhng. The gardens, which in terraces slope 
down towards the sea, are well stocked with a variety 
of flowers. By a continuation of the road, dug into the 
steep declivity of the mountain, we reached the villa of 
Dr. Lieschlng and Mr. Ziegler to dinner. 

This is a romantic spot, with a great variety of gar- 
den-ground, laid out in terraces, down a very rugged 
kloof, and containing a large collection of scarce plants 
and flowering shrubs. At the bottom of these grounds, 
the rocks form a grotto, in which is a cold bath. Walk- 
ing alone on the heath, I found some singular groups 
of large stones, with the Lion's head above them, in 
profile, resembling a cupola, and to the south, an exten- 
sive view of the coast beyond Camp-bay and Hout-bay, 
of which I endeavoured to make a sketch. After din- 
ner we returned to Capetown, in the doctor's barouche 
and four. 

Ii5th. I went to the Government-house, where I found 
Captain Forbes, who assured me, that he meant to set 
sail on the morning of the 16th. Having obtained ad- 



VISI,T TO SOUTH AFRICA. 349 

mission to the Governor, I had a final, and very satisfac- 
tory conversation with his Excellency, on some points 
of importance to the Mission, and thus closed the busi- 
ness committed to me by the Directors of the Missionary 
concerns of our Church, with thankfulness to God, to 
whom alone I ascribe all my undeserved success. 

I dined to-day with Mr. Wilberforce Bird, and met 
Dr. Hussey and a captain of artillery. Mrs. Bird made 
many inquiries concerning Mr. Wilberforce and his fami- 
ly, and I was delighted to hear that excellent man made 
the subject of conversation and just adniiration. At nine 
o'clock, the company went to a ball at the Government- 
house. I returned home to my lodgings at Mrs. Di- 
sandt's. 

16th. This being my last day at Capetown, I spent 
the morning in taking leave of my friends, Mr. Hancke, 
the Rev. Mr. Hesse, Mr. Poleman, and their families. 
While I live, I shall retain the most grateful sense of their 
kindness towards me. 

Meeting Captain Forbes, he desired me to be ready 
at four o'clock, as he then expected the Governor to 
bring his son on board, and should immediately set sail. 

After dinner, therefore, having taken a last farewell 
of my kind hostess, Mrs. Disandt, her family, and son-in- 
law, Mr. Edward Grant, whose presence has added much 
to the pleasure and comfort I always enjoyed in that 
house, I was accompanied to the pier by Mr. Hancke, 
Mr. Daniel Disandt, and Mr. Bestaendig. There 1 
bid adieu to the former, with sentiments of the sincerest 
affection and gratitude for the essential and disinterested 
services he has rendered me, during the whole of my 
abode in the colony. The two latter gentlemen gave 
me the pleasure of their company, till we reached the 
ship. Stephen, a Hottentot from Groenekloof, by whom 
I had yesterday received letters, was on the pier, and 
saw me enter the boat, according to orders received. 

When 1 arrived on board, 1 found every thing pre- 
pared to receive the Governor. The ship was dressed 
out with an awning and flags, and the table in the cabin 
covered with a profusion of viands. The first lieu- 
tenant being confined by a hurt, received some days ago. 



350 JOURNAL OF A 

the second lieutenant had the command. Captain Forbes' 
was on shore, and it was so settled, that if his gig re- 
turned without him, then the Governor would not come 
on board that afternoon. Bj some mistake the gig was 
reported to be coming off empty, and the lieutenant or- 
dered the flags and awnings to be taken down. This 
was instantly done, when the gig was seen swiftly ap- 
proaching the ship, with the Governor, his son, Miss 
Somerset, and the Captain in it. There was now no 
time, either for replacing the flags, or for firing a salute, 
before they were all on board. His Excellency seemed 
pleased with the ship, and the arrangements made, and 
sat down to the cold collation. When they returned to 
shore, a salute of seventeen guns was fired, a company 
of artillery onboard performing that service. During 
the short conversation I had with his Excellency, he once 
more assured me of his favourable disposition towards 
the Mission; and added, that he still hoped that I should 
land in England before the passengers in the Brilliant. 
His prediction proved true. 

The wind having turned right against us, and blowing 
fresh, the Captain resolved not to work against it so late 
in the evening, and returned with the Governor. I 
would not go again on shore, but spent the evening in 
writing. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 351 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



Departure from Table-bay. View of the coast and moun^ 
tains. Reflections. Contents of the Zebra. General Bo^ 
naparte^s part of the cargo. Officers. Convenience of a 
private cabin. Letter to the Rev. Mr. Hesse^ respecting 
the Church of the United Brethren. First appearance of 
St. Helena. Its rocky coasts. Visited by Captain Wallis 
of the Podargus sloop. Landing. James-town described. 
Sir Thomas Reade. Invitation to Plantation-house. 
Ladder-hill. High-knole. Volcanic appearances. Beau- 
ty of the interior. Sir Hudson Lowe^ Governor of St. 
Helena. Mr. Brook. Morning-walk through the Go- 
vernor'^s grounds. 

October 17th. About eight o'clock, Captain Forbes 
came on board with Mr. Somerset, Captain Cloete, and 
Major Blake. The two officers soon returned to shore. 
Every thing being prepared, we immediately set sail, and 
beat out of the harbour, the wind being right against us. 
The sky looked wild. 

1 stood on deck, engaged with various contemplations, 
but having so often, in the course of this narrative, ex- 
pressed my feelings, they may be guessed at without the 
necessity of a tedious recapitulation. Though the hea- 
vens were beclouded, the air w^as clear, and the surround- 
ing objects presented themselves distinctly to view ; 
Capetown, with its immense back-ground of mountains, 
or rather huge cliffs, shelving off towards the south; and 
to the east, the beautiful outline of mountains from the 
Hangeklip to the Piquetberg, enclosing the Tigerberg, 
Kuhberg, Blauberg, and Groenekloof hills. On the lat- 
ter, my spirit seemed to hover with a mixture of pleasure 
and pain, and my prayers arose for a blessing on all, 
whom I have there left behind. My spirit then fled over 
the mountains of Hottentot's Holland into the sacred 
groves of Gnadenthal, and I felt a pang on reflecting, 
that, by being kept in constant suspense during the last 
two months, 1 have been prevented paying another visit 
to those who dwell under their shade. 



352 JOURNAL OF A 

As we were a long time working out of the bay, I quietly 
enjoyed these reveries for some hours, till the more rest- 
less waves ofthe open sea began to affect me^ and feeling 
myself quite overpowered by a kind of giddiness, I was 
glad to reach ray private cabin, and take to my bed, out 
of which, after a restless night, I could hardly crawl into 
**the great cabin on the 

1 8th, when I felt only half alive. Meanwhile the wind 
had turned in our favour, and we had made one hundred 
and twentj^-six miles by twelve o'clock, going at the rate 
of nine and ten knots an hour. I began already to com- 
fort myself with some faint hopes of our being not much 
behind the Brilliant, when she reached England. 

19th. I had spent a miserable night; the breeze fresh- 
ened so much, that the rolling of the ship became very 
troublesome. A soldier, who had obtained a free passage? 
as Captain's servant, was particularly anxious to render 
me every assistance; and, during the whole voyage, 
considered himself as attached to me. He attended me 
every morning, and seemed even to watch my wishes, that 
I might never want any thing. His name was John 
M'Klosky. By twelve o'clock, we had made two hun- 
dred and twenty miles. Thankfulness for such swift pro- 
gress, made me quite satisfied with all the tumbling and 
railing we had to endure. The wind abated a little, but 
remained fair. 

20th. The articles of war were read, and a general 
muster and inspection of the crew took place, as is usual 
on Sundays. 

21st. Being restored to a tolerable state of health and 
spirits, I began to notice the contents of our ship, and 
the heterogeneous nature ofthe objects brought together. 
General Bonaparte's property filled great part of the 
deck, and as it has been insinuated that he was left in 
a starving condition, it may not be uninteresting to know, 
w^hat the Zebra alone added to his store, of which I took 
some account, a hundred bags of corn and oats, twelve 
bales of hay, ten casks of wine, six barrels of butter, and 
forty or fifty sheep, several of which died on the passage* 
Every man of war, sailing from the Cape, was charged 
with some articles, either of provision or manufacture, 
for this celebrated captive. But how are the mighty 



r 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 353 

fallen ! Fallen indeed, in every sense, even in mind, so as 
not to be able to restrain a species of fretfulness, which 
leads him to encourage complaints, founded on falsehood. 
Bonaparte's goods were all marked with a Bp, by his 
own direction. Among other live stock on board, was 
a young jackal. This savage cub, a moment after he 
was brought on board, seeing an unfortunate cock walk- 
ing on deck, seized it by the neck, and sprang w^ith it 
overboard, supposing the green ocean to be a field. The 
boat being out, both were soon taken up, and the jackal 
saved. 

22d. The wind continued strong and fair, and all were 
thankful for the progress we made. 

I shall ever remember with gratitude, the civility and 
kind attention of Captain Forbes and the officers of the 
Zebra. Many of them had seen much service, and fought 
nobly in their king and country's cause. Some had 
travelled to almost every part of the known world, and I 
could not fail to derive much entertainment and infor- 
mation from their occasional relations of remarkable 
events, which were always unaffi^cted and unassuming. 
A passenger, Captain Brabyn of the infantry, who had 
spent sixteen years in New South Wales, and was obliged 
to visit England, to settle some family affairs, gave me 
much interesting information both of that singular coun- 
try, and of my friend the Rev. Mr. Marsden. Thus I 
never felt time hang heavy on my bands. If I was not 
disposed to write or read, I always found such society 
and conversation on deck, as afforded me great grati- 
fication. 

My little cabin was my sanctuary, and the hurry and 
noise in the gun-room seldom, if ever, disturbed me in 
my meditations. Whatever is not within my reach or 
control, in things not quite consistent with religious 
propriety, I leave to Him, who judgeth righteously, not 
being answerable for what is not committed to me, or in 
my power to alter in the conduct of others. To reprove, 
in a spirit of Christian meekness and true charity, being 
more disposed to excuse and make allowances, than to 
find fault and judge severely, is certainly the duty of a 
true Christian, but the manner of doing it, with any 

45 



354 JOURNAL OF A 

hopes of success, is not the gift of every one who feels 
the obligation. But there was not an officer on board 
who would not take in good part, any remark made 
on subjects, on which we differed in sentiment or ex- 
pression. 

A small shelf had been put up in my cabin, which con- 
tained a few books. Every morning, when I awoke, the 
bull's eye giving me sufficient Hght, I read the Scripture- 
texts appointed for every day in our Church, with the two 
chapters from which they were taken, adding sometimes 
larger portions of the Scriptures, as I was led on by the 
importance of the subjects, and the great delight and 
comfort 1 enjoyed in this practice. Never did the Bible 
appear to me so precious a treasure, when read with 
prayer, and under the enlightening influence of the Spirit 
of God, by whose divine assistance, I was frequently led 
into a clearer understanding of many of the great truths 
contained in it, than I had ever before possessed. To 
enter largely upon the subject, would be here out of 
place, but I trust some abiding impressions have been 
made upon my soul, during my soUtary devotions in that 
narrow cell. 

Every day, two officers were invited by the Captain 
to dinner, and, according to the usual practice in a man 
of war, the Captain dined with the officers on Sundays, 
when Mr. Somerset and 1 were likewise invited. 

25th. The wind becoming more moderate, the ship's 
motion permitted me to spend my time quietly in the 
cabin, preparing letters to send from St. Helena to the 
Cape. I began likewise to make a circumstantial report 
of all my proceedings at the Cape, for the Directors of 
our Missions. 

26th. 1 wrote to my highly valued friend, the Rev. 
Mr. Hesse, at Capetown, having been led into a reca- 
pitulation of many subjects, which occurred in conversa- 
tion between us at his house. Part of my letter related 
to the Church to which I belong. Concessions are the 
best defence, where we are, or have formerly been, to 
blame, in expressions or proceedings founded on mista- 
ken notions. Such concessions have been repeatedly 
iriade, but in general to Uttle purpose; and we must be 



TISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 355 

satisfied to hear the old, wretched, and contradictory ac- 
cusations, repeated in '' Accounts of all Religions, En- 
cyclopedias, Notes on Church History," and other com- 
pilations. Be it so, since it cannot be otherwise ex- 
pected; let us live them down, since we have not been 
able to write them down. To some, however, who wil- 
fully continue to deal in that species of slander against 
the Brethren, or other religious communities, the answer 
of a friend of mine, a nobleman in Saxony, to his brethren, 
the States of Upper Lusatia, assembled at the Diet at 
Bautzen, may be given, consistently with truth. With a 
view to irritate his feehngs, or, as the vulgar phrase is, 
to quiz him, they pretended to believe all the infamous 
stories, related by certain authors concerning the practi- 
ces of the Brethren at Herrnhut, representing them as a 
very profligate and licentious sect; and challenged him 
to deny them. '^ Pray, gentlemen," he replied, " do not 
assert, that you believe these things, for I know you all 
so well, that if you really did believe, that all manner of 
licentiousness might be practised at Herrnhut with im^ 
punity, there is not one of you, who would not long ago 
have requested to be received as a member of such a 
community." 

27th. Evening-prayers were read in the cabin before 
dinner. While we were dining with the officers in the 
gun-room, the master came down with the good news, 
that 8t. Helena was in sight. The information was re- 
ceived with great coolness by the old mariners, and as 
we could not anchor there after sunset, we remained un- 
der an easy sail all night, standing offhand on. 

28th. I was early on deck, expecting to find a huge 
peak rising out of the sea, as St. Helena is often repre- 
sented. I was surprised, therefore, to see a long, high, 
and, from that distance, smooth-looking land, exhibiting 
nothing striking or picturesque; but, as we approached, 
more of its peculiar features were visible, and its ap- 
pearance became interesting. No coast I have ever 
seen looks more desolate; and one may easily conceive 
the anguish of the ladies wlio accompanied Bonaparte 
to have been as great as described, when they beheld 
the black dismal precipices, without a blade of grass or 



356 JOURNAL OF A 

bush upon them, among which they were perhaps to spend 
the remainder of their Hves. Several kloofs (to keep 
up the old favourite appellation) divide the masses of 
ragged rocks. They appear filled with a black mould, 
the crumbling fragments of decomposed volcanic sub- 
stances. 

We soon discovered the Podargus sloop of war, 
cruizing off the island, andj by signal, sailed towards 
her. Captain Wallis, her commander, came off in his 
boat, and paid a long visit to Captain Forbes. 

On a nearer approach, several curious peaks, rocks of 
fanciful shape, and caverns near the sea, attracted my 
attention. The general colour of the rocks is dark-gray, 
with fissures and veins of a brown-yellow tint. Batte- 
ries are placed on several eminences, forming a line of 
defence all round the accessible part of the island. As 
we sailed round the point, James-town burst upon our 
view, with a neat church, clean-looking houses, and a row 
of trees near the beach. Some groves of cocoa and 
other trees adorn the gardens. 

When we had come to an anchor, the officer of the 
guard came on board, with whom Mr. Somerset and 
Captain Forbes went on shore, to make arrangements. 
I preferred spending the day on board, wishing to write 
letters, and complete my journal. On their return, how- 
ever. Captain Forbes, who had procured permission for 
me to land, reported, that having seen the Governor, 
Sir Hudson Lowe, he had invited him to dinner at Plan- 
tation-house, his country-residence, and that I might, 
meanwhile, find amusement of various kinds on shore. 
I was thus persuaded to accompany him. 

The weather was so mild, that there was hardly any 
surf, which is sometimes very troublesome, even at the 
jetty. The landing-place lies under vast and almost 

f)erpendicular rocks. About three hundred yards to the 
eft, an abutment of the rock forms an arch, like that of a 
flying buttress. To the right, the road passes over a 
drawbridge, along the beach, to a battery of heavy guns, 
commanding the entrance of the harbour. To the left, 
storehouses and offices range behind an avenue of trees, 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 357 

the stems of which are remarkably crooked and ill- 
grown. 

About the middle of this range of buildings, a gate ad- 
mits the traveller into the town, w^ithout any examina- 
tion, but he is required immediately to repair to the 
town-major's office, to sign his name, and declare his 
business. Our first visit was to Captain Stansfield, the 
senior naval officer, acting as commodore, in absence of 
the admiral. Sir Pultney Malcolm. 

I was received with great politeness by Captain Stans- 
field, and, as Sir Pultney had offered Captain Forbes a 
bed at his house, 1 was likewise provided with accommo- 
dations, as his companion. During his absence, I de- 
termined to spend the afternoon in examining the stones 
on the hills surrounding the town, being pretty sure, that 
I should find enough to amuse me for some hours, when 
the arrival of Sir Thomas Reade, the Adjutant-general, 
delivered me from the burden of my contrivances. When 
he heard the plan I had formed, he protested, that I 
should not quit my company, but accompany the captain 
and Mr. Somerset to Plantation-house to dinner. With 
the most obliging opposition to all my remonstrances, he 
fairly compelled me to join the cavalcade, and we set out 
with the Governor's adjutant, Lieutenant Pritchard, all 
well mounted. 

The road up Ladder-hill is a steep zigzag, and were 
there not a parapet of about three feet in height skirting 
it towards the declivity, the view downwards would be 
frightful. At the top of the hill, a battery commands 
both the road, and the gate leading to it from the plain 
above. The mass of rocks, and the innumerable frag- 
ments lying on the hill, bear evident marks of their 
having once been in a state of fusion. The traces of 
that dreadful eruption, by which this singular island was 
lifted up above the surface of the ocean, appear in all 
directions. To the right, on the waste above, we were 
made particularly attentive to a number of gullies, in 
parallel lines, resembling torrents of burning lava. An 
attempt has been made to plant a hedge of Indian fig, on 
each side of the road, but it docs not seem to thrive well. 
Leaving High-knole, a steep conical hill, to the left. 



358 JOURNAL OF A 

with a fort and guard on the summit, the whole face of 
the country changes from a wilderness to a garden. The 
declivities of the hills are covered with short grass of the 
most lively green, and their summits with bushes and 
trees. On a plain below, the camp of the 66th regiment 
presented itself. It is called Francis-plain camp, and, as 
the military was just then on parade, the sound of mar- 
tial music greeted our ears, as we rode along the hill.. 
Plantation-house lies to the right, and is approached be- 
tween two handsome lodges, with a guard-house, signal- 
house, and flags. The road leads through a grove to 
the main entrance. The house is a spacious building, 
facing an opening towards the sea, and bounded by low 
hills, planted with a variety of trees and bushes. An 
extensive lawn and garden slope down the gentle de- 
clivity. 

On entering the drawing-room, we met a large compa- 
ny, chiefly officers of different regiments, now stationed 
in the island, waiting for the Governor. I confess I felt 
rather uncomfortable, not seeing Sir Thomas Reade 
arrive, to account for the appearance of a stranger 
among these miHtary men in full dress. But w^hen Sir 
Hudson entered the apartment, and Captain Forbes in- 
troduced me to him, his Excellency made me truly wel- 
come, assuring me, that he should have felt much hurt, if 
I had not accompanied my friends. To my astonishment, 
I found here a gentleman, with whom 1 had contracted 
some acquaintance in England, Mr. Brook, Secretary to 
the colony. 

Sir Thomas Reade having joined us, we sat down to 
dinner, twenty-one in number. The conversation was 
free, and conducted throughout with the most correct 
attention to propriety. Sir Hudson had the kindness to 
place me next to the Secretary, that we might renew our 
acquaintance. Lady Lowe had been confined about a 
month ago, and did not attend to-day. About nine 
o'clock the party broke up, and the moon shining bright, 
all the officers returned, either on foot or on horseback, 
to their stations in different parts of the island. Sir Hud- 
son desired us to make his house our home. 

29th. I awoke at daybreak, and feeling no inclination 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 359 

to waste my time in sleep, in a place so remarkable in 
itself, and rendered much more so by recent events, I 
instantly quitted my bed, and left the house before sun- 
rise, to form acquaintance with as much of the surround- 
ing country as the time before breakfast would permit. 

I first went to the pleasure-grounds. They are laid 
out in terraces, descending towards a valley, in which 
some cottages are inhabited by Chinese gardeners and 
labourers. A flower-garden, in the Dutch style, is pre- 
paring for Lady Lowe, who delights in curious plants. 
It is sheltered from the east wind, by a rock of a white 
gritty substance. My attention was for some time di- 
rected to an assemblage of stones, brought together for 
building. They were varieties of scoriae, some contain- 
ing crystals of shoerl and olivin, and, as 1 apprehend, 
magnetic iron, quite similar in appearance to many I 
have seen from the neighbourhood of iEtna and Vesu* 
vius. Some of the cavities were filled wnth a bright yel- 
low coating, but I found no zeolith in any of them. 

Pursuing my walk, under beautiful groves of trees of 
various descriptions, I arrived at the hill, which is cover- 
ed with a young plantation of firs and other evergreens. 
From the upper walk observing a black rock at some 
distance, I made towards it, and found it to consist of 
amorphous basaltes. While I was employed, without 
proper tools, in knocking off some specimens, the bark- 
ing of a dog at the door of a neighbouring house, 
brought out the proprietor, with whom I had some con*^ 
versation. 

Turning down a footpath to the bottom of the rock, I 
found a quarry, and in it a vein of a substance by the 
Germans called Steinmark, (stone-marrow,) but of so 
brittle a nature, that I could get but very small speci- 
mens. Two hours passed swiftly and pleasantly away, 
and when I returned to the house, I found the Governor 
in his library, and we soon met to breakfast. On Captain 
Forbes requesting, that his Excellency would furnish us 
with the means of visiting Longwood, he declared his 
intention of accompanying us thither himself, and, if pos- 
sible, obtaining for us a sight of General Bonaparte. 



360 JOURNAL OF A 



CHAPTER XXV. 

The Governors gardens described. Excursion in company 
of his Excellency, by Sandy-bay^ to Lons^wood, High 
Peak. Diana^s Peak. The DeviVs Ptmch-bowL Ac- 
count of Longwood. General Bonaparte confined to his 
room by illness. Bertrand. Monthollon. Lieutenant 
Pritchard. Description of Sandy-bay and other parts of 
the island. Furze. Black-berries. Wild goats. Houses 
of English settlers. The Friar Rock and valley. Obser- 
vatio)is on General Bonaparte^ s conduct. Departure from 
St. Helena. 

When Captain Wallis of the Podargus came on board 
the Zebra, and inquiry was made about General Bona- 
parte, the captain seemed very unwilling to allow, that 
he was any longer an object of curiosity at St. Helena, 
though in England we were all so eager to hear and 
speak about him. But on landing we found, that his 
words and actions formed a considerable part of the con- 
versation of all classes. Captain Wallis was first lieute- 
nant to Captain Wright, whose history is well known ; 
and though Bonaparte denies knowing any thing about 
the torture he is said to have suffered before his death, 
yet his great wrath at the appointment of Captain Wallis 
to this station, which, he says, w^as purposely done to 
mortify him, shows no very clear conscience. In Captain 
Wallis he cannot expect to have a sincere friend, unless 
he conceives him to be a Christian of such consummate 
piety, that he can forgive and forget all the cruel and 
insulting treatment which he himself experienced, when 
taken prisoner with Captain Wright. 

Lord Charles Somerset had expressed his wish to 
Sir Hudson Lowe, that, if it were possible, his son might 
have, if not an interview with, yet an opportunity of 
seeing General Bonaparte. But unfortunately for us, he 
was just now not only highly displeased with the Gover- 
nor and the English in general, on account of some ne- 
cessary restrictions put upon him, but truly ill with a 
swelling of the gums, ^d a breaking out in the lower 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 361 

art of his face, which had confined him to his room for 
several dajs. 

Before we set out, Sir Hudson proposed a walk 
through his own grounds, part of which I had previously 
seen. His Excellency pointed out many foreign trees, 
growing here in great perfection, among which, some 
have not yet been described by botanists. The Chinese 
yew; the cofFee-tree; cinnamon and clove-bushes; the 
Norfolk-island-pine, a most beautiful species, growing in 
its native soil to the enormous height of from three hun- 
dred and fifty to three hundred and eighty feet ; the 
gum-tree ; cabbage-tree ; dog-tree, and goblekeer, bear- 
ing a small sky-blue flower, and others, deserve particu^ 
lar attention. Some oaks of vast magnitude and spread, 
form a delightful bower, under which, in that hot climate, 
one may enjoy the comfort of a shady retreat, inhaling an 
atmosphere, perfumed by the fragrance of a profusion 
of the sweetest plants and flowers. We noticed a pecu- 
liar kind of grass, called mat-grass, from its spreading 
most luxuriantly over the ground, in such thickness, that 
it forms a cover resembling thick matting, with long ten- 
drils like quick-grass. The Governor ordered a large 
sod, covered with it, to be put into a tub and sent on 
board, which I brought to England, 

The kitchen-gardens are large and well-watered by 
springs from the adjoining hills. The water is conveyed 
in narrow troughs, cut in a red lava, easily wrought, by 
being in a state of half-decomposition. By this means, 
the water is saved from being lost in the sand, or loose 
earth, as it passes along. Where this method is practi- 
cable, it should be adopted in South Africa, and in other 
places, for the purpose of irrigation. I am confident, 
that such a measure would greatly increase the quantity 
o( produce in many South African farms- 

We now set out for Longwood : the Governor, 
Colonel Sir Thomas Reade, Lieutenant Pritchard, Cap- 
tain Forbes, Mr. Somerset, and I, with a dragoon and 
groom. Sir Hudson proposed first to ride to Sandy-bay, 
one of the most romantic spots in the island. The views 
on all sides are singularly beautiful. Many fertile and 
well-wooded hills present themselves to the right, one 

4G 



362 JOURNAL OF A 

of which is called High Peak. Diana's Peak lies mor^* 
to the left, and is considered the highest point in the 
whole island. After crossing several hills and dales, by 
a zigzag road, their steepness never admitting of a strait 
line, we reached the ridge, overlooking the bay. The 
view of the valley is beyond description grand. Hills 
and rocks of most singular forms surround a deep hol- 
low, within which rises a woody hill with two peaks, 
one ascending considerably above the other. Between 
them, surrounded by gardens and shrubberies, lies the 
elegant villa of Mr. Doveton. He was born in this 
island, and is one of the members of council. Behind 
the house, seen, from the place where we stood, between 
the two peaks, rises a huge rock, like a sugar-loaf, called 
Lot. In the back-ground, is a range of hills, truly vol- 
canic in their appearance, intersected by numerous glens 
and gullies, of almost every colour, but chiefly violet, 
with tinges of yellow, red, dark-brown, and a greenish* 
gray ; the summit of the range is crowned with peaks 
of brown and black rocks, rising in succession. On its 
most elevated part, a rock, considerably higher than the 
rest, and leaning towards the right, has the odd name of 
Lot's wife ; the lower row of rocks, of different shapes 
and sizes, are called Lot's children. The whole land- 
scape is the most strange combination of objects imagina- 
ble, and Sir Hudson, perceiving that I wished to make 
3. sketch of it, proposed that I should make it the business 
of to-morrow, as our time to-day was too short. 

Leaving therefore this enchanting spot, we turned to- 
wards Longwood, which, after a ride of a few miles, 
presents itself over a deep, barren glen, called the 
^' Devil's Punch-bowl." General Bonaparte's premises 
appear, at first sight, to be placed near its rim. After 
rounding the edge of the Punch-bowl, we reached the 
outer gate and guard-house. Sir Hudson pointed out 
tons the situation of Longwood, as pecuHarly calcula- 
ted to prevent unobserved escape. The grounds, which 
occupy a space of about twelve miles in circumference, 
lie upon a kind of inland peninsula, the only practicable 
access to which, is between the Devil's Punch-bowl, and 
a deep glen to the right, descending towards the sea, 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 363 

or between the flag-staff hill, and the other end of the 
Punch-bowl. Both these roads are sufficiently defend- 
ed by troops. As far as the guard-house, and within the 
twelve miles. General Bonaparte may ride, and amuse 
himself as he pleases ; but if he wishes to exceed those 
limits, an officer must accompany him. He finds this ex- 
tremely unpleasant, and requested the officer to dress 
like a common gentleman, which, however, being on du- 
ty, the latter was obliged to refuse. 

After entering the gate, we rode up to another en*' 
closure, where Sir Hudson desired us to wait, till he had 
obtained information respecting the General's actual 
situation. The interior of the premises is well stocked 
w^ith ornamental and other trees, forming a pleasant 
shrubbery, the rest of the domain being principally 
covered with gum trees standing singly. In a short 
time, Sir Hudson returned from the house, with an ac- 
count, that General Bonaparte was very ill with a swell* 
ed face and gums, and could not leave his room. This 
answer we had expected, and contented ourselves with 
riding about the park, if I may so call it, sind obtaining 
a good idea of the situation of the dwelling of this re- 
markable man. He and his friends complain of it, but I 
can only declare, that in the whole island of St. Helena 
I have not seen a spot, more convenient and airy, and 
where there is so much opportunity for taking a ride in 
a carriage or on horseback, without interruption. The 
park is even and grassy, and General Bonaparte fre- 
quently rides out in a cabriolet and six, generally in full 
gallop. In the shrubbery, near the house, stands a large 
marquee, in which he commonly breakfasts, and spends a 
good deal of time. 

Bertrand has a separate house, a little lower down the 
declivity, at a small distance from his master's. We saw 
him and Monthollon, with their ladies, walking in the 
park. The mansion itself is rather an assemblage of 
buildings, than one whole house. The dining-room, with 
its viranda, is the principal feature, and has three large 
windows. Connected with it, are General Bonaparte's 
own apartments, the principal one turning its gable-end 
towards the entrance. Behind that, if I am correct, fol- 



364 JOURNAL OF A 

low those of the Captain on guard, Las Casas, Gourgeon^ 
and Monthollon. The latter has four windows. They 
are all one story high, whitened, with gray roofs. 

To the north-east, is a remarkable rock, from its shape 
called the Barn, rising perpendicularly from the sea to a 
great height, black, rugged, and without any trees. Far- 
ther inland, lies a peaked hill, called the Flag-staflf. 
Towards the Barn descends a narrow vale, covered Avith 
gravel of decomposed volcanic matter, in some parts so 
red, that it furnishes the imagination with the idea of a 
burning torrent. Here and there are patches of blue, 
yellow, and violet, increasing the deception. We had no 
time to fatigue our horses by riding into it ; and on our 
return to the guard-house. Sir Hudson very obligingly 
directed his adjutant. Lieutenant Pritchard, to attend me 
to any place, from which I might wish to make a sketch 
of the house and premises. He then returned home. 
Captain Forbes and Sir Thomas Reade rode to James- 
town, and Mr. Somerset favoured me with his company. 

We Vv^ent round the north-east end of the Punch-bowl, 
through the camp of the 53d regiment, but finding no 
good situation for a view, turned back towards the oppo- 
site height. Not far from the gate, I dismounted, and 
got a good general view of the house, or houses. 

When we arrived at plantation-house, Lady Lowe had 
taken an airing in a close carriage, and was in the draw- 
ing-room, where we were introduced to her. Her Lady- 
ship likewise attended to-day at the head of her table. 
Some military and other gentlemen joined us at dinner. 
My neighbour was Colonel Lister, w^ho having been in 
the interior of South Africa, as commander of a corps of 
Hottentots, had visited Gnadenthal, and was interested 
in obtaining an account of the present state of the Mis- 
sion. The afternoon could not be but pleasantly spent 
in the company of men so well informed and intelligent. 
After they w^ere gone, I retired into my own room, and 
finished my memorandums. 

30th. I rose early, and began my morning's walk by a 
scramble up the hill to the right, to obtain a general view 
of the house and premises ; then turning through the 
gates, went down the hill on the road to Long wood. 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 3G5 

High-knole, with its fort, supported by steep, black, rug- 
ged rocks, only wants trees to make it appear a very 
picturesque object. Francis-plain camp lies in a very 
solitary situation. But I have seldom listened with more 
pleasure to military music, than this morning, though 
performed only by some fifes, and a smaller and larger 
drum. The composition, as well as the performance, 
were excellent. 1 returned through the gates, and, as- 
cending by the zigzag walks behind the house, to the 
churchyard adjoining the chapel of ease, a good view 
of a range of hills from the Governor's grounds to the 
Barn rock, rewarded my labours. 

At breakfast. Sir Hudson proposed, that Mr. Somerset 
should make another attempt at Longwood, by the good 
offices of Dr. O'Meara, to see General Bonaparte. I 
set out in company of Lieutenant Pritchard, for Sandy- 
bay, taking a different route from that of yesterday. 
We made halt at a guard-house and flag-staff, and having 
given our horses in charge of a lad, got over a wall, and 
obtained a fine view of the valley, but not equal to that 
from the other side, towards which, therefore, we bent 
our course. Here I attempted to take a very accurate 
view of this singular spot. 

From hence we made a circuit towards the western 
coast of the island, passing along a sharp ridge, with 
beautiful glens on each side, in which several gentlemen's 
houses and plantations are well contrasted with the rug- 
ged masses of rock in their neighbourhood, and the wild 
waste around them. Yet even this waste was glorious- 
ly decorated with bushes of most luxuriant growth, 
chiefly of furze, now in full bloom, and, both in the size 
and colour of its flowers, incomparably superior to that 
of Europe. Blackberry-bushes, likewise, which were 
first introduced as a rarity in a garden, have now become 
so plentiful, that they are considered as the worst of 
weeds, intruding themselves every where into gardens 
and plantations. The summits of some of the hills are 
crowned with groves of gum and cabbage-trees, but the 
havock made of the wood, with which this island was 
formerly clothed, has been such, that, comparatively, but 
little of it is left. Formerly every passing ship sent men 



366 JOURNAL OF A 

on shore to cut as much as they wanted. Of course rto carfe^ 
was taken to prevent waste. The subsequent introduce 
tion of goats, which ran wild, and multiplied very fast, 
was most ruinous to the growth of young plants and 
sprouts. These creatures proved at last so great a nui- 
sance, that they were hunted, and almost destroyed. 
There are no quadrupeds here, which may be called abo- 
rigines. Rats and mice have been brought hither by 
ships. Of other creatures, except birds and reptiles, we 
have no account. Scorpions and centipedes are said to 
have always abounded. 

The houses of the English settlers in St. Helena, are 
very different in their appearance from those of the 
Dutch at the Cape- They are neat and cleanly, with 
lawns and plantations; and prove, that their possessors, 
whether richer or poorer, are directed by some good 
taste, and do not always first ask, whether what they 
build or plant will bring in money, or afford too much 
pleasure or convenience to a neighbour, without gain or 
reward to themselves. 

The views on the western shore are equally inte- 
resting, though not so wild. Roseberry hill, the villa 
of Colonel Smith, is charmingly situated. A singular 
rock, from its shape called the Friar, and giving name 
to a valley, presents itself between two huge masses of 
stone, about the north-west corner of the island. We 
had no time to approach nearer. The heat was to-day 
greater than we had experienced it for a long time*^ 
The Governor could not have given me a more agree- 
able companion than Lieutenant Pritchard, who made it 
his study to render my ride agreeable and instructive. 

After our return, I found his Excellency in the hbrary, 
busily engaged in preparing despatches to go by the 
Zebra. My view of the house and surrounding scenery 
happening to meet with Lady Lowe's approbation, I 
finished my sketch for her. Captain Forbes had re- 
turned from James-town, and Dr. O'Meara having sent 
word, that General Bonaparte was too ill to appear 
abroad, Mr. Somerset was disappointed. Mr. Brook, 
the Secretary, paid a short visit. We sat down to din- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA- 367 

lier without any additional guests, and the afternoon was 
spent in lively conversation. 

Every account we heard of the disposition and conduct 
of General Bonaparte in this island, showed but little of 
that greatness of character, which he would affect, and 
his admirers represent as inherent in him. That which 
belongs to the natural construction of a man's mind will 
be discovered in every situation of hfe. Not only in 
prosperity, but in adversity, it will cleave to him, and 
generally influence his conduct. But in a day of ease 
and victory, it is much easier to support a pretence, and 
wear a mask, than in a state of affliction. While Gene- 
ral Bonaparte was dictating laws to every nation but 
England, and crowned heads were bowing before him, 
he could assume a character superior to his own, and af^ 
feet, in every thing, to rise higher than other men. It 
would be unjust to deny him the merit of having ex- 
hibited a degree of comprehension and skill in military 
affairs, which has perhaps seldom, if ever, been equalled 
among ancient or modern warriors. In civil arrange- 
ments, also, who will deny, that his plans were vast, and 
that he had the wisdom to search out and employ the 
best agents for the accomplishment of his designs ! Had 
these properties of his mind been accompanied and di- 
rected by what constitutes true greatness, by generosity, 
goodness of heart, a conscientious principle, and reli- 
gious attention to justice and truth in his dealings, he 
would indeed have deserved all the praise bestowed 
upon him, either by those who were dazzled by his 
meteoric splendour, or by men who, in our own country, 
set him up, more, I trust, to please their party, than to 
sound the trumpet, and further the designs of the most 
determined and illiberal enemy England ever had. But 
now we see, that in adversity, that species of greatness 
which he possessed will not support him. It cannot in- 
deed be supposed, that he should feel happy in his pre- 
sent situation, and I could not visit his present domain, 
without feeling pity for a man, fallen so low, and who, 
had his senses not forsaken him in that (to him) most 
evil hour, might yet, after all his defeats, by honestly 
yielding to necessity, ^nd signing the proposed treaty of 



368 JOUKNAL OF A 

Chauraont, have been left in possession of more power 
and military glory, than any other Potentate in Eu- 
rope. But the old adage, ^^ Quern Deus vult perdere, 
prius dementat," was never more completely verified^ 
than in the case of this singular man. He was, no doubts 
an instrument in the hands of a just God, to chastise the 
nations for their apostacy, and laid aside, when his work 
M^as done. If any thing tends to lessen or destroy that 
compassion, which one must feel even for the greatest de- 
linquent, under the lash of well-merited punishment, it is 
that petulance and irritability, which he shows in his 
present situation, and which a mind truly great would 
know how to suppress. 

Ever grumbling, finding fault with every person and 
every thing about him, dissatisfied with his food, peevish- 
ly complaining of neglect, when circumstances alone 
perhaps produced some transient disappointment, and, if 
not the author, yet the promoter of the most unjust ac- 
cusations against Sir Hudson Lowe, the Governor, who, 
though he knows and does his duty to his Sovereign, in 
guarding the charge committed to him, has, in more than 
one instance, spared and befriended his prisoner ! Can 
such conduct proceed from what is called greatness of 
mind ! I will quote one instance of the effect of his dis- 
satisfaction about things of minor importance, which 
came to my knowledge from the best authority. A 
butcher at James-town, who used to deliver meat for 
his table, being at length wearied out with continual 
repetition of complaints, though he furnished the best 
meat he could procure, directed the following laconic 
epistle to the Governor: "Sir Hudson! May it please 
your Excellency, this same General Bonaparte is hard 
to please. I begs to be excused sarving him any long- 
er with meat." 

As he hates Sir Hudson Lowe, the latter does not un- 
necessarily trouble him with his presence, but delivers 
all notices to him by Sir Thomas Reade, whose polished 
manners, good-humoured disposition, and knowledge of 
the Italian language, which General Bonaparte is said 
to prefer to French in conversation, makes him a plea- 
sant messenger. Sir Thomas has therefore had more 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 369 

opportunities of becoming acquainted with him, in the 
various affections of his mind, than most Englishmen 
with whom he has conversed. 

A proof of great meanness is this, that he will not 
give credit to the English for any great warlike action. 
He says, that by all the rules of war, he ought to 
have gained the battle of Waterloo, and that the Duke 
of Wellington ought, if he had been a good General, 
to have retreated, and not made his stand where he 
did. Yet at other times, feeling peculiarly indignant 
at the Prussians, he, of course, will not allow them 
to have had any share in the result of that action, 
but describes his defeat to the firmness of the English 
infantry alone, by which all his plans were disconcerted. 

It is not my intention to add to the numberless ac- 
counts given of this celebrated captive, who thinks that he 
has friends and defenders enough among the EngHsh 
nation. Not having seen and spoken with him myself, I 
can only repeat what has been said by others, and as to 
those communications, w^hich are made in the course of 
friendly and unguarded conversation, I am of opinion, 
that, without special permission, common civility requires, 
that they should not be published, lest, by any uninten- 
tional misstatement, uneasiness might be created in the 
minds of men, whose kindness and liberality deserve to 
be rewarded with the most scrupulous attention to their 
feelings. 

General Bonaparte once observed to a gentleman, at 
whose house he seemed to bear his lot with considerable 
composure, that so many extraordinary things had hap- 
pened to him in his life, which had happened to no other 
man, that he should not be surprised if, some time hence, 
the English Government were to recall him. 



47 



370 JOURNAL OF A 



CHAPTER XXVL 

Preparations to leave St. Helena, Rumours of a war be- 
tween England and Jilgiers. Exercises at great guns and 
small arms. Appearance of Ascension island. Singular 
colouring of its rocks and hills. Captain Rich of the 
Racoon sloop of war. Landing. Great mountain. VoU 
canic scoriae and cinders. Scanty supply of water. Lava. 
Obsidien. Spotted crabs. Cockscomb oysters. Broken 
shells. Beautiful moonlight view. Water-spout. Re- 
Viarks on reading the history of Greece and Rome. 
Strange noises on board. Character of my late Father. 
Conversations with Captain Forbes. Stormy weather. 
Accuracy of reckoning by the chronometer. Enter the 
Bvitish Channel. Arrival at Spithead. 

October 31. Captain Forbes, on his return from town, 
yesterday, informed us, that he should sail in the fore- 
noon, and we prepared to leave this hospitable mansion, 
which, but for the strong drawing felt towards home, I 
should have done with the most sensible regret. Deter- 
mined, however, to lose no time, I was ready for my 
IPorning's walk before sunrise, and having found a good 
road to the top of the hill above the cave, I once more 
treated myself with a general view of this lovely spot 
and the surrounding country; after which, I once more 
examined the heap of stones in the garden, and got some 
good specimens of volcanic scoriae. 

After breakfast. Captain Forbes rode to town, Mr. 
Somerset and I followed, and in about an hour. Sir 
Hudson and his retinue. We alighted at Sir Thomas 
Readers, and finding that we could not immediately go 
on board, Captain Forbes and Mr. Somerset rode up 
Rupert's hill, to pay a visit to Mr. Balcome. I intended 
to write one or two letters to be sent to the Cape, but 
the servant having locked the room at the Admiral's 
house, where I had deposited my writing apparatus, I 
took a walk a little way up Ladderhill, and back to the 
j^tty, intending to proceed along the rocks to the arch 



ViSiT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 371 

I had observed on our landings but found it inaccessible 
bj land. 

On the Captain's return, we went with Sir Thomas 
to the castle, to take leave of the Governor. The castle 
IS an old building, possessing no beautj or pecuhar fea- 
ture. It lies to the left, on entering the gate from the 
jettj. Having expressed to his Excellency^ as well as to 
Sir Thomas and the other officers, the grateful sense we 
shall ever retain of that kind attention which we had so 
largely experienced, we entered the Captain's gig, and 
went on board. Sir Thomas took charge of our letters^ 
an opportunity soon offering for the Cape. But if the 
plan of obtaining provisions from the Portuguese settle- 
ments of Angola and Benguela, on the opposite coast of 
Africa, succeeds, the communication between St. Helena 
and the Cape will not be so frequent. The loss in live 
stock imported from the Cape, is found to be too great. 
We had a good and swift passage, and yet lost twenty of 
our sheep, and not long ago, out of thirty brought from 
the Cape for the use of the officers, nine-and-twenty died 
during the voyage. 

The weather was fine, the sea smooth, and the wind 
as fair as we could wish. We had been threatened with 
a repetition of a fit of sea-sickness, after spending three 
days on shore, but felt no symptoms of that unpleasant 
malady. St. Helena remained in sight all day, and for 
some hours we could see Longvvood through an opening 
behind the Barn-rock. In the evening, the moon shone 
bright, and we sat long on deck. 

Of our fellow passengers, only Ca^ptain Crawford and 
Lieutenant Keeling had been on shore. The former 
complained sadly of the expense he had been put to at a 
tavern. Lieutenant Keeling had been in camp with the 
fifty-third regiment, called with Dr. O'Meara on Ber- 
trand, and walked over the grounds at Longwood. 

November 1st. We had entirely lost sight of St. He- 
lena, and were gently gliding along towards the island 
of Ascension. Having got rid of General Bonaparte's 
goods, our decks were clear, and we had room to walk 
two abreast from the wheel to the ladder. Having been 
informed, that we were at war with the Algerines, our 



372 JOURNAL OF A 

valiant tars conceived good hopes, that we should " have 
a brush'' with some of them. 

In the afternoon the Captain ordered a general exer- 
cise of great guns and small arms, without firing, 

2d. A target being fixed at the end of the fore-top- 
sail-yard, the marines and artillery-men fired at it. A 
general exercise took place. The whole operation of 
calling the men to quarters, mustering at the guns, each 
officer taking his particular station, was put in practice ; 
firing with great guns; resisting boarders; extinguish- 
ing fire; falling down to avoid raking broadsides; jump- 
ing up to fire ; &c. The manoeuvres were directed by 
the captain, unexpectedly, as he thought fit, and the men 
seemed to go through their work with great spirit. The 
whole represented a naval engagement, and was to me 
a very entertaining exhibition. In the sequel, this exer- 
cise was frequently repeated. 

4th. Every preparation was made, and I was informed^ 
that in case of an attack, in a few minutes we might be 
ready for the fight. For some days past, I had per- 
ceived a slight pain in my left leg, which to-day increased, 
with some swelling. I submitted it to the surgeon's in- 
spection, who pronounced it to be of not much conse- 
quence, and gave me a lotion, which I believe was of 
service, though the pain haunted me for some time. The 
clouds seemed to announce a change of weather, and the 
wind freshened; for which we were thankful. Some 
showers passed over us in the afternoon. 

6th. At breakfast, the master announced land from the 
masthead, and in about an hour after, we could discern it 
from on deck. Running with a fine breeze, at the rate 
of eight knots an hour, we hoped to cast anchor at the 
island of Ascension early in the afternoon. 

Most of the officers on board saw this island for the 
first time. We expected to see a low, flat, uninteresting 
country, noted merely as a resort for turtles ; and were 
therefore agreeably disappointed, when, at a distance of 
forty miles, we beheld an outline, much more varied and 
picturesque than that of St. Helena, and the volcanic 
origin more perceptible. Sailing along the coast from 
the south-east, the whole island appeared dreary in the 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 373 

extreme. The sandy beach was as white as snow,-with 
black rugged rocks interspersed. Behind it a horrid waste, 
withblackguUies between the hillocks. The latter differed 
in height, and seemed chiefly heaps of scoriae, of a coni- 
cal form, one set up above the other, and enclosing higher 
hills of a dark-brown colour. A high mountain rising in 
the centre of the island, showed three peaks. A black 
cloud rested upon it for some time, and is said generally 
to obscure the summit, but we were favoured with so 
clear a sky, that the cloud, though hovering above, sel- 
dom descended upon it. 

One headland after the other presented itself, as we 
ran down ; and no vessel being seen for some time, the 
Captain began to entertain doubts, respecting the situa- 
tion of the anchoring ground, as pointed out in Hos- 
burgh's Directory. At length, the masts of the Racoon 
sloop of war were discovered rising behind a promontory^ 
but more to the westward than expected. Various sig- 
nals were made and answered from a signal-house on one 
of the hills, by which the arrival of the Zebra was an- 
nounced to the Racoon. 

Some of the strata of the rocks along the coast are 
singular, both as to form and colour. They lie chiefly 
horizontally, or dipping a little towards the south, in 
some places in curved lines. The colours generally fol- 
low each other downwards, thus : blueish-black ; dark- 
brown; light-red; yellow; gray; earthy; and white, 
near the beach. All seem to consist of a rotten, crum- 
bling stone. Not a green spot is to be seen. The whole 
island is a huge mass of cinders and hardened lava. 

Large flights of the frigate-bird, and other sea-fowl, 
kept hovering about the ship. 

On doubling the point, we saw Captain Rich, of the 
Racoon, coming towards us in his boat. He was soon on 
board, and directed us where to cast anchor. We did 
not arrive at the anchoring-place till seven P. M. and, af- 
ter a late dinner. Captain Forbes accompanied Captain 
Rich on board the Racoon. 

7th. Though I felt a considerable degree of pain in 
my left leg, and the surgeon advised my staying on 
board, yet in so extraordinary a situation, in view of one 



374 JOURNAL OF A 

of the most remarkable islands in the Atlantic, encoura 
ged by the finest weather, with little wind and surf, and 
every convenience for landing, I hope I may be forgiven 
for disregarding the surgeon's advice; nor blamed as 
presumptuous, in venturing, at the risk of a Httle increase 
of pain, to visit a place of such an inviting character. 
Captain Forbes and Captain Crawford went to break- 
fast on board the Racoon, but the gig was ordered to 
attend Mr. Somerset and me. 

To land on the sandy beach, even when the surf is 
least violent, would be attended w'ith great danger. The 
only safe way is to back the boat into some cove be- 
tween rocks, and as the swell heaves its stern towards 
the rock, without touching, to leap on shore. 

On landing, some people showed us to Lieutenant 
Roberts's tent. This officer had the command on shore, 
in the absence of Captain Rich. The tents of the gar- 
rison are placed among heaps of volcanic matter, resem- 
bling cinder-heaps in the neighbourhood of London* 
Every hill, both near the coast and in the interior, con- 
sists of the same substance, chiefly of a deeper or lighter 
brow^n colowr. Some look yellow and violet. At a dis- 
tance, the brown tints change to a deep purple. On the 
great mountain, the colour is a blueish-gray, with green- 
ish spots, owing to the growth of a species of milk-bush, 
here called parsley, and considered poisonous. The 
white colour of some of the rocks seems to proceed from 
calcareous substances. 

We were informed by the officers, that there may be 
about twenty acres in the island fit for cultivation. They 
have made a garden on the great mountain, but they 
must fetch their supply of garden-stuff, turf for firing, and 
fresh water, from a distance of from seven to nine miles. 
No tree is to be seen throughout the whole island. Two 
small springs of fresh water are known, the nearest, 
seven miles from the tents. But it is rather a continual 
dropping from a rock, than a regular spring, and yields 
two tons in twenty-four hours. The second is at the 
garden near the summit of the great mountain, nine miles 
distant from the battery, and, in the same space of time, 
yields one hundred and forty gallons. As our water on 



^^ 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 375 

board sent forth a very unpleasant smell, and could not 
be used, the sweet water of this island was considered by 
us as a great luxury. 

The two naval Captains having joined us on shore, we 
took a walk with Lieutenant Roberts towards the spring, 
but the heat was so great, being 115 degrees Fahren- 
heit by one, and 122 by another thermometer, and the 
sand, or rather powdered cinders, so troublesome to the 
feet, that after forcing ourselves forward for about two 
miles, we were obliged to return. In all directions, 
nothing but the most barren and desolate region met our 
view. It appeared as if the tremendous eruption, by 
which this island has been raised from the depths of the 
ocean, had but lately ceased. 

When we had regained the coast, the Captains re- 
turned on board. Mr. Somerset walked with me to 
the battery and store-houses, and along the coast, exami- 
ning the rocks. They are a black lava, full of pores, 
cavities, and crevices. Innumerable spotted crabs crawl- 
ed about them, and many of the cavities were filled with 
cockscomb oyster-shells, which stuck so fast, that it was 
with difficulty I obtained one whole specimen. In some 
places, the rocks are covered with a vitreous matter, 
like glazing. Lieutenant Roberts presented me with 
several large lumps of obsidien, or volcanic glass, found 
in the interior. 

The sand on the beach consists chiefly, and I may al- 
most say wholly, of fragments of small shells, among 
which were several broken parts of beautiful varieties of 
a larger sort, but not one of them left whole. 

There are no animals on the island but wild goat?, 
and numberless rats, which proved very troublesome to 
our people. Lieutenant Roberts having showed us the 
officers' tents and mess-room, carried us on board the 
Zebra in his boat, where we found several of the officeis 
of the Racoon on a visit to those of our vessel. 

The establishment at Ascension, was made in conse- 
quence of General Bonaparte's confinement in St. Helena, 
and under an apprehension, that unless we took fornjal 
possession pf this isknd, some other power, or adventu- 



376 JOURNAL OF A 

rer, might make it a stepping-stone to forward his es- 
cape. 

The sun shone in full splendour, and illumined the 
whole island. It is a beautiful object^ as far as outline 
and colouring are concerned. One would not imagine 
that nature's pencil could give such effect to so desolate 
a spot. I endeavoured to obtain an exact sketch of the 
whole coast, before which we lay, and as the cloud had 
entirely withdrawn from the great mountain, nothing 
w^as wanted to render it complete. The colours were 
inimitably beautiful, and as the sun began to decline, al- 
most every shade of red, brown, purple, lilac, blueish- 
gray, yellow, orange, black, and white, was produced, in 
one or other part of the landscape. 

About four o'clock, the two Captains, Mr. Somerset^ 
and I, went on board the Racoon to dinner. She is a 
very handsome ship, large for her class, rated at 
eighteen guns, but carrying twenty-six, with a roomy 
cabin, state-room, and quarter-galleries. 

A boat having been sent to some distance, to procure 
fish for Captain Forbes, we were detained on board till 
long after sunset, when Captain Rich accompanied us on 
board the Zebra, in his own boat. The anchor was 
now discovered to be foul, and it lasted a considerable 
time, before we w^ere disengaged, and could set sail. At 
length, the buoy-rope being cut, we launched forth. I 
had meanwhile enjoyed the pleasure of long contempla- 
ting one of the finest nocturnal views ever seen. The 
peaks of the great mountain were enveloped in black 
clouds, of threatening aspect, but appearing stationary. 
The full moon distinctly showed the whole outline of the 
island, illumining the edges of the many loose airy 
clouds, which, disengaging themselves from the grand 
mass, by degrees spread over the heavens. The Racoon 
in the fore-ground, with the play of the distant surf and 
of the nearer waves, enlightened by the moon's rays, add- 
ed greatly to the enchanting beauty of the scene. As 
the wind rose with the increase of clouds, we did not 
carry much sail during the night. 

10th. Being Sunday, the Captain read prayers on 
deck. The service was conducted with the greatest or- 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 377 

der and solemnity. Immediatelj after, a strange sail 
was announced, which proved to be a large merchant- 
man, coming from the eastward, and standing athwart 
our course. This is the first vessel we have seen at 
sea, since we left the Cape. 

15th. Porpoises and albicores were frequently about 
the ship, and by the appearance of the clouds, calms and 
squalls were expected. A heavy shower overtook us 
about noon, and the sailors gained a good deal of fresh 
water for washing. 

16th. A water-spout appeared in the south-west, the 
course of which we watched for some time, but it passed 
a great way astern of us. The south-east trade-wind 
had remained steady and fair, to this day, but after a 
violent shower at noon, it suddenly fell calm, and we be- 
gan to fear, that we had got into the region of calms 
and squalls. But in about an hour's time, a breeze 
sprung up from the north-east, which continued fair and 
strong. 

21st. Some showers passed over us. Every prepara- 
tion was made for any unforeseen event, in reference to 
the war with the Algerines. Blue lights were got ready, 
and shot brought on deck. 

22d. A merchant ship hove in sight, and a square- 
rigged vessel was seen to windward. Boxes of case and 
grape-shot were brought on deck. About noon, a sea- 
man fell from the fore-top, and bruised his head exceed- 
ingly. The loss of his services was much regretted, as 
he was a remarkably clever and active man, and captaiu 
of the top. 

23d. Captain Forbes and I have been lately, at our 
leisure, reading Goldsmith's compendium of the histories 
of Greece and Rome, which Mr. Somerset had brought 
with him. I cannot devest myself of the party feelings I 
had, w^hen a boy at school. 1 then took a dislike to the 
character of the Romans, and always wished success to 
their enemies, more especially to Hannibal. Goldsmith's 
great admiration of them therefore did not accord with 
my sentiments. But the history of Rome is pecuharly in- 
structive to an Englishman, and he may thereby learn, 
what real enemies of the happiness of m:if)kind nil do^ 

48 



378 JOURNAL OF A 

tnagogues have ever been, however plausible their pre-^ 
tences. 

25th. This morning, about four o'clock, the sky being 
covered with dark clouds, and the moon set, a ship 
coming from the eastward, approached us within two 
cable-lengths. She hoisted lights, but the night was so 
dark, that she was not immediately perceived by the 
men on the look-out. By God's providence, she did not 
run foul of us, which, as she was coming in full sail, and 
right before the wind, might have proved a serious injury 
to both vessels. The wind freshened towards evening, 
and w^e ran at the rate of from eight and a half to ten 
knots an hour. 

26th. In sleepless nights, I was both disturbed and 
amused by the various noises on board a ship of war. 
First, the sentinel before our door cried. Log-time ! the 
officer of the watch on deck : Heave the log ! Hold the 
reel ! Shortly after: Strike the bell ! The Zebra's bell, 
however, being broken when she went on shore in 
Simon's bay, it sounded like an old tin kettle, till the 
broken piece fell out, by which its tone was improved. 
This lasted about a fortnight, when by some means it 
got another crack, and lost its voice entirely. As make- 
shifts are very common among sailors, they found, on 
trial, that striking with the hammer on the flook of the 
anchor, answered the purpose as well, and that was now 
our belL It is struck every half hour, but not in imitation 
of a clock. The day is divided into six parts. At twelve 
at noon, it strikes eight times, or eight bells, as the 
phrase is, two and two strokes distinct, „.„.„.„. at 
half after twelve, one stroke ; at one, two strokes ; at 
half-past one, three; and so on till four o'clock; when, 
of course, the eight strokes return. Then, beginning 
with one at half past eight o'clock, they are again com- 
plete at twelve. If the officer says to the Captain, it is 
twelve or six o'clock, the answer is, " make it so." When 
the King was sailing in a frigate at Weymouth, hearing 
the commander use that expression, he observed : ^^ You, 
Sir, have more power than I have ; I cannot make it what 
time / please." After the bell has struck, the sailors 
placed as watch on the shrouds, and forecastle, cry out, 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 379 

as loud as they can, lest they should be suspected of 
sleeping: Larboard quarter; Starboard quarter ; Lar- 
board bow. In the morning, there is pumping, scrub- 
bing, trampling overhead, and the noise increases. 

27th. The wind was variable with short calms, and 
much lightning. 

29th. It may seem impertinent, that I again introduce 
a memorial of my late father on this anniversary of his 
death, having already in my account of the same day, 
spent at sea, on my voyage to the Cape, expressed my 
feelings on that subject; but as I wrote this journal for 
the perusal of my children, I could not help adding a 
few lines in reference to it; and now, on revision, can- 
not resolve to omit them, requesting the indulgence of 
such, to whom they may appear obtrusive. 

I have seen and known some persons, who possessed 
one or other quality of my father's mind and heart, in an 
equal, and, perhaps, superior degree; but never any 
man, in whom so many excellent and useful qualifications 
were combined. In his conversation with those, over 
whom the situation he held in our Church had placed 
him, he understood the rare art of gaining their esteem 
and respect, and even securing perfect submission to his 
superior judgment, without ever, in the least degree, 
appealing to his station or authority ! He was open and 
communicative, heard patiently the opinions of others, 
though differing from his own; received their instruc- 
tions, when needed, and felt no hesitation in confessing, 
that he had been guided by the judgment of an inferior 
in situation and ability. He was the friend of all, and 
from the lowest to the highest, all felt at ease in his com- 
pany. The lowest placed confidence in his sincerity, as 
addressing a man, attentive to and interested in his 
concerns, and ever willing to advise and assist. Again, 
I might quote many instances, in which even the King's 
ministers treated him with marked regard and attention, 
honouring the uprightness of his heart, and the nobleness 
of his spirit. In conversing with inferiors, he had no- 
thing of that affectation of condescension, which gene- 
rally proves a cobweb too thin to hide the pride lurking 
beneath; and before men in power, his courteonsnesf5 



380 JOURNAL OF A 

partook of nothing like fear or cringing. As a man of 
strong feelings, he may have felt strong partialities; but 
he never suffered them to interfere with his judgment, 
nor did I ever hear him express dislike, much less re- 
sentment, against any individual, not even against a few, 
who treated him ill. Though strong in his declarations 
of abhorrence against vice, and especially against un- 
truth and insincerity, he never directed his displeasure 
against the sinner, but only against the sin. As a peace- 
maker, he possessed an extraordinary talent, and it was 
ever his heart's delight, to bring about reconciliation 
and good-will. God's blessing attended his labours of 
love, and what seemed incurable hatred was often 
changed into perfect friendship, through his mediation. 

In disinterested devotedness to the cause to which he 
had dedicated his talents and his life, he set a noble ex- 
ample to all in public stations of every description. He 
never sought worldly advantage, either for himself or his 
family, in any thing he undertook. But for the tempo-* 
ral as well as spiritual welfare of others, he was at all 
times ready to use his influence and best exertions. 

In native eloquence, improved by study, we have never 
seen his equal in our Church, and those who have heard 
him in the pulpit, will grant, that his pre-eminence over 
most preachers in his day, was great. His language 
flowed with such ease, that, even when he raised his 
audience to the highest enjoyment of the most sublime 
and rapturous subjects, it was perfectly intelligible to all 
classes, without ever descending into what might be con- 
sidered too colloquial or vulgar. His manner was al- 
ways luminous, powerful, and full of fine imagery, ex- 
planatory of the subject before him. 

In setting forth the great doctrines of Christianity, of 
the depravity and helplessness of man, the necessity and 
all-sufliciency of the atonement made by Jesus Christ, 
justification by faith, and the hope of glory, he spoke 
with an energy and unction, which never failed to arrest 
attention, and touch the heart. 

Being possessed of a soul truly musical, while he en- 
couraged the use and practice of music in the church, by 
every means within his reach, he resisted all innovation, 
tending to destroy the grandeur and simplicity of the 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 381 

true church-style, and his remarks on that part of the 
service were most judicious. 

In his whole deportment was seen, what a combina- 
tion of natural talent diligently improved, sweetness of 
temper, and the grace and love of God in the heart, may 
effect. 

There are now but few remaining, to whom I may 
appeal for the truth of this account of my dear and 
honoured father. He wished on his death-bed, that no- 
thing might be said of him, for he thought it wrong to 
give any praise to man, when the whole was due to God ; 
yet we may be allowed to thank God for sending such a 
servant, to benefit his cause on earth, and express our 
heartfelt regret, that he was so soon removed, for he had 
not yet completed his fifty-ninth year. 

The cause of his death was an excrescence in the vi- 
tals, of the nature of a common wen, which, had it ga- 
thered in any external part, according to the opinion of 
the surgeons, might have been removed without much, 
if any pain. 

May my end, whenever it pleases God to call me 
hence, be hke his, as full of peace and assurance of eter- 
nal bliss, through the merits of my Redeemer. 

30th. We were to-day in the latitude of Corvo, one 
of the Azores, but too far to the westward to see it. 
The wind was rather high, and the sea turbulent. I 
finished reading Goldsmith's history of Greece. Both 
that, and his history of Rome, are excellent, luminous 
compendiums. They show what the boasted preten- 
sions of man are, without the influence of the Spirit of 
God. Can there be any thing more diabolical than the 
conduct of these people, once the most enlightened of 
mankind by the powers of human reason. 

December 1st. Advent-Sunday. I read with peculiar 
delight the portions of Scripture appointed in our Church 
for this day, and was in spirit among those, who witli 
heart and voice sing "Hosanna, blessed is He that 
cometh in the name of the Lord." In a conversation 
with the Captain this evening, I was led to express my 
thoughts concerning the present mode of education in 
the world, which, in gei^eral, rather forbids, than •' suf- 



382 JOURNAL OF A 

fers little children to come to Jesus,'' though not from 
the same generous, but mistaken views, which made His 
disciples consider them troublesome. But it is said, that 
if men are to live in the world, and to be a match for it, 
they ought to be made acquainted with its ways in early 
youth, and not brought up too religiously. I sometimes 
thought, that by the care; taken to preserve me from the 
ways, lusts, fashions, and ensnaring pleasures of the 
world, I had missed much ; but from what 1 have seen, 
since it has been in my power to know more of the 
world, I find I have no cause to regret my very late ac- 
quaintance with it, having still to learn^ where the great 
happiness, so much boasted of, is to be found ; and as I 
wish myself and every human creature to be completely 
happy, I pray, that we all may find the true and only 
source of that joy, which, as our Saviour expressed it, 
" no man can take from us," and which, through Him, 
may become the portion of us all. 

2d. The sea was restless, and the ship pitched heavi- 
ly. In the afternoon, the breeze freshened, and the spray 
kept flying over the bulwarks, and on to the quarter 
deck. The sky looked wild, and we took in sail. 

3d. I did not feel well, but went on deck to behold 
the sea, which appeared rather furious. Mighty waves 
assailed us on all sides, and every precaution was taken. 
During the forenoon, we sprung our main-yard, and ran 
under close-reefed top-sails. The wind getting more aft, 
the ship began to roll very much. The hatch-ways 
w^ere closed, and tarpawlings put upon the sky-light of 
the cabin ; but we were proceeding fast in the right 
track. The clouds in the west had long looked very 
black, and now rose with lightning and thunder, and a 
heavy squall. All hands were turned up, as a severe 
gale was expected. I retreated into my cabin. Both 
this and the following day, the weather was very boiste- 
rous and rainy. 

5th. Though " well roused about,'' as the sailors call 
it, and not able to sleep, I was truly thankful for the 
swiftness with which we were approaching our dear na- 
tive country. Surely the mercies of the Lord have been 
every morning new. Not a blast of contrary wind have 



VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 383 

we had since we left the Cape, and this morning, just 
when we wanted it, the wind shifted to the north-west, 
and we ran at the rate of twelve knots for several hours. 
All hands were employed in getting out a spar to fish 
the main-yard. In these operations, the artillery-men 
are of great service, and work with cheerfulness. The 
waves rose higher to-day than I had ever yet seen, and 
it was a great amusement to me to watch the ship's pas- 
sage over them. 

6th. We had proceeded swiftly and steadily during the 
night. About eight in the morning, it began to blow what 
even the sailors called a hard gale. But the sky was 
perfectly clear and the sun shone upon the boisterous 
ocean with great brightness. The waves seemed to roll 
in upon us like mountains. The royal masts were struck, 
and we ran under close-reefed top-sails and a storm stay- 
sail. During the forenoon, the Captain was making 
great exertions to get up the main-yard, which had been 
fished yesterday, but was obliged to give it up till four 
in the afternoon, when the wind abated a little. 

7th. We were now in the chops of the Channel ; and 
in the afternoon, on sounding, found ourselves in ninety- 
eight fathoms water. Our calculations by the chronome- 
ter have been so correct, that we were exactly where it 
was supposed we should be. We sounded every four 
hours during the night. 

8th. The morning set in with a heavy squall, but in 
our favour. During the forenoon, showers passed over 
us. I was amused with observing the sand cleaving to 
the bottom of the lead. The most minute shells, among 
which were star-fish not above a quarter of an inch in 
diameter, were brought up from a depth of from eighty 
to sixty fathoms. 

About two o'clock, a fishing-boat came to us. The 
man brought two newspapers. We were sorry to hear 
of some serious disturbances in several parts of England. 
We learned also, that a severe engagement had taken 
place between the English and Algerines, in which our 
countrymen were victorious; and that, during a dread- 
ful storm, about three weeks ago, many ships had been 
wrecked in the Channel. 



384 JOURNAL, &C. 

9th. In the afternoon, we saw the Lizard point, and 
entered the Channel with a gentle breeze at north-west. 
About nydnight, the wind changed to south-west, increas- 
ing in strength. We ran at the rate of nine and ten 
knots an hour, and though it began to grow hazy with 
drizzHng rain, discovered the different promontories, as 
we passed swiftly along. About four miles to the west- 
ward of the Isle of Wight, a pilot-boat hove in sight, and 
a gun being fired to bring her to, the pilot soon came on 
board. All crowded around him to hear the news. He 
gave an account of Lord Exmouth's victory, and the sub- 
mission of the Dey of Algiers. With a fine steady 
breeze, we crossed the bridge between the Needles and 
the main land, over which the sea plays in a terrible 
manner, and reached the anchorage at Cowes about six 
in the evening. During the night it blew hard, and we 
were thankful to be in safety. 

10th. Early, we weighed, and about eight A. M. an- 
chored at Spithead. The Captain, Mr. Somerset, and I, 
went on shore in the gig, and landed at the Sally Port. 
Mr. Somerset set out from Portsmouth for the Duke of 
Beaufort's seat, and I took leave of Captain Forbes with 
sentiments of the greatest esteem and gratitude, nor shall 
I ever forget the kindness experienced from him during 
the whole voyage. The evening after our arrival, it blew 
a terrible gale. While I heard the tempest roaring 
without, I cannot express in words my thankfulness to 
God for the extraordinary success, which attended us du- 
ring the voyage, and for having been brought in safety 
to shore, even at a season, when storms are most dreaded. 

13th. I left Portsmouth, and in the evening arrived 
safe in London, where I found my young friend Adolph, 
who had but that day landed from the Brilliant. Thus 
Lord Charles Somerset's hopes were verified ; for, 
though I left the Cape a month and a day later than the 
Brilliant, I landed in England three days sooner than I 
should have done, had I sailed with that vessel. 



THE END. 



385 



LIST OF TREES, SHRUBS, AND PLANTS, 

Noticed in this Journal. 

WITTEBOOM — Leucadendron argenteum. 

Speckboom — Portulacaria afra, (or tree purslane.) 

Wageboom — Protea grandiflora. 

Geelhout — Podocarpus clongata. 

Stinkhout — Laurus hullata B. 

Melkhout — Sideroxylon inerme. 

Eysterhout — Olea undulata B. 

Dornbush — Acacia capensis, is the common sort. 

Kreupel-bosch — Leucospermum conocarpum, (the firewood grown 

under Table Mountain.) 
Roth-els — Cunonia capensis. 
Witt-els — Weinmannia trifoliata. 
Gomassi-hout — ^a plant of the order Contortas.) 
Taaibosch — a species of Rhus, of which genus several bear the 

name of Taaibosch. 
Camphor-wood — Laurus camphora, (is not a native of the Cape.) 
Oliven-hout — Olea similis B. (a large tree with long narrow leaves.) 
Rhinosteros-bosch — Stoebe rhinocerotis. 
Zuyker-bosch — Protea mellifera. 
Chinese Rose — Rosa semperflorens. 
Waxberry-bush — Myrica cordifolia. 
Poison-apple — Solanum sodomeum, (a prickly shrub.) 
Bosch-tau or Bavianstau — Cynanchum obtusifolium, (other plants 

are also called so.) 
Bamboo — Bambusa arundinacea. 
Spanish Riet — Arundo donax. 
Aloes, several sorts — Of the genus Aloe, nearly all the species are 

indigenous at the Cape. 
Agave Americana is found about Capetown. 
Fahlblar — A small species of Aloe, blueish leaf, scarlet flower. 
Farkblar — (pig-leaf,) Calla Ethiopica. 
Pisang — The sort growing wild in the Zuureveld, is Strelitzia 

reginae ; that which grows in Plettenberg-bay, is Strelitzia 

augusta. 
Indian Fig — Cactus opuntiae, used for fences. 
Hottentot Fig — Mesembryanthemum edule. 
Chandelier — Brunsvigia multiflora. 
Seven-years-flower — Gnaphahum eximium, with a leaf like woollen 

cloth. Several kinds. 
Riet Reed Rush — Restio. Various sorts are used for thatching. 
Palmite — Juncus serratus, of Thunberg. 
Papkull— Typha latifolia. 

Baviansblom — Is a name given to various species of Babiana's. 

49 



386 

Hottentot food — A bulb with a long stalk. 

Moss — The long-hanging kind is a species of Usnea. 

Bukku — A medicinal plant of singular virtue. 

hi the Island of St, Helena, 
Mat-grass, 
Chinese Yew, 
Dog tree^ 
Cabbage tree, 
Gum tree, 
Coffee tree, 

Goblekeur, with a small blue floweif. 
Cinnamon, 
Cloves, 
Norfolk Island Pine. 

BEASTS. 
ELEPHANT— Elephas Africanus. 
Lion — Felis Leo. 

Tyger, not the East India, but a large panther. 
Leopard — Felis Leopardus. 
Wolf — Hyena Crocuta. 
Buffaloe — Bos caffer. 
Jackal — Canis mesomelas. 
Koodoo — Antilope strepsiceros. 
Gnoo — Antilope Gnu. 
Hartebeest — Antilope bubalis. 
Springbock — Antilope saltans. 
Buntebock — Antilope. 
Boschbock — Antilope sylvatica. 
Blaubock— Antilope leucophaga. This is a large animal, and very 

different from the little one of the Zuureveld. 
Dog. 

Wild-dog — Hyena Venatica. B. 
Rehbock — Antilope. 
Elland — Antilope Oreas. 
Cape-ox is a variety of Bos Taurus, 
Sheep — Capra Capensis. 

Aardfark, Earth-hog — Myrmecophaga capensis. 
Porcupine— -Hystrix cristata. 
Mole— The large sort is Myotalpha maritima. The smaller i- 

Myotalpha capensis. 
Zebra — Equus Zebra. 
Quagga — Equus Q,uagga. 
Steenbock — Antilope. 
Baboon — Cercopithecus ursinus. 
Monkey. 

BIRDS. 
Albatross — A species of Diomedea. 
Frigate-bird-^Pelecanus Aquilus of Linneus. 



387 

Cape-pigeon is probably a species of Sterna, a sea-bird. 
Hawk. 
Falcon. 

Spreuw— Starling. 

Wittegat Spreuw — Turdus morio of Linneus. 
Groene Spreuw — Turdus nitens. 
Yellow finch. 

Zuyker Vogel, (Sugar-bird,) a species of humming-bird. The 
different species of Zuyker Vogelen^ that have received 
names, are 
Certhia Caifra, the large, brown, long-tailed. 
■ famosa. Green. 

violacea. > small, with yellow, red, and blue breasts ; a 

chalybea. \ common sort. 

Swallow, domestic. 

Do. wild — Hirundo capensis. 
Secretary-bird — Falco serpentarius of Linneus. 
Fiscal — Lanius coUaris. 
Green Cuckoo. 

Louri or Touraco — is the Cuculus Persa of Linneus. 
Cape-lark — Alanda capensis. 
Korhan — a species of Otis. 
Guinea-fowl, wild — Numida mitrata. 
Partridge — Perdix. 
Wild Peacock — a species of Otis. 
Penguin-^^Aptenodytes demersa. 
Turtle dove — Columba. 
Crow — Corvus. 

SERPENTS, &c. 
COBRA di capella, not crested. This is very different from the 

true Cobra di capella of India. 
Nachtschlange. 

Schaapstecher, unnamed species of the genus Coluber of Linneus-. 
Bergadder. Do. 

Puffadder. Do. 

Erdschlange, earth-serpent — a species of Anguis. 
Cuytges, in thatch, Lacerta Geitje, of Sparmann. 
Salamander. 

Chameleon — Trapsoetges. Chameleon. 

Tarantula — species of Aranea, (not the true tarantula of Europe.) 
Scorpion — Scorpio. 
Ants, large and small — Formica. 
Buschlouse, resembling the Acarus ricinus. 
Whale-louse. 

Lizards — Most of the lizards are at present unnamed. 
Crocodile, or Kayman — Lacerta riparia B. 



I N D E X. 



ABUE, Mr. at Mossel-bay, 135. 

Accidents, 130, 152, 164, 177. 

Adder, Berg-adder, Puff-adder. See 

Serpents, 
Addison's Spectator, 13. 
Ados Drift, on Sunday's river, 233. 
Address to Hottentots, 108, 279, 323. 
Akkerman, Mr. a farmer, 18 1, 240. 
Albatross, bird, 26. 
Albicore, fish, 18. 
Alexander, H. Esq. Colonial Secretary, 

33,49,50,51, 101, 135,306. 
Algerines, war with England, 371, 383. 
Algoa-bay, 204. 
Aloes, 35, 44, 125. Decoction of, 136. 

Large, 189. 
Ants' nests, 57. Used as ovens, 315. 

In the ground, 301. Flying ants, 138. 

Large, 314. 
Appell, Philip, a Hottentot, account of, 

273. 
Appetite, total want of, useful, 2. 21. 
Aris, Lebrecht, a Hottentot, 114. Case 

of, 119. 
Arniston, East Indiaman, lost off Cape 

Aguillas, account of, by Dr. Hassner, 

76, 258. 
Ascension Island, described, 372. 
Ass, Van, Mr. 127. 
Assistants, 71. 
Attaquas-kloof, 251. 
Ausflucht Farm, 239. 
Austin, Mr. at Somerset, 225. 
Authors, German, sentimental, 17. 
Azores Islands, 381. 

BAAKENS, or boundary-stores, 110. 
Baboons, 54, 96^ 111, 174, 223, 252, 

284. 
Baptism of children, 44. Of adults, 48, 

81. 
Barbiers Kraal, 149. 
Barkhuis, Mr. 172. Mrs. J. 173, 248. 
Bartlett, Mr. of the Missionary Society 

in London, 111. 
Basaltes, St. Helena, 359. 
Batje, Peter, a Hottentot, account of, 

264. 
Ba viands Kloof, 57, 61, 69, 82. 
B avian's Mountain, 57. 



B avian's Revier, in Graaf Reynet, 227. 
Baviau's Tau, or Bushrope, a creeper, 

149. 
Beetles, black, 133. 
Belfry at Gnadenthal, 63. 

Bentinck, , Esq. 101. 

Bethelsdorp, visit to, 200. Described, 

201. 
Bird, Colonel, Colonial Secretary, 34, 

101, 320. 
Bird, Wilberforce, Esq. 349. 
Birthday, celebration of, 99. 
Blauberg, 39, 287. 
Bluebock antelope, 164, 
Bock Revier, 118, 263. 
Bonatz, J. Gottlieb, missionary, 45, 69, 

82, 105. Leaves Gnadenthal, 112, 

114. Adolph, his son, 326. 
Bonavista, Island, Cape de Verd, 15. 
Bonaparte, General, overthrow of his 

power. Stores for, 352, 363, 366. 
Boschberg, 205, 222. Described, 223. 
Boschlemmer knives, made at Gnaden- 
thal, 133, 239, 240. 
Botte Revier, farmer at, 55, 95. 
Boundary of Gnadenthal, 84, 1 10. 
Brak Revier, 138. 
Breede Revier, 121. 
Bricks, Hottentots' manner of making, 

64, 341, 344. 
Bridge over the Palmite Revier, describ- 
ed, 284. 
Brilliant brig, engage a passage on 

board, 304, 328, 333. 
Bruntjes Floogte, Achter, 199. 
Buchenrode, Mr. Von, 206. 
Buck, Mr. a fellow-passenger, 2, 305. 
Bueffeljagds Revier, 125. 259. 
Buffaloes, 156, 210, 236, 262. 
Building of a new house at Gnadenthal^ 

64. Of a new church at Groenc- 

kloof, 287, 314, 323. 
Buissini, P. Von, Esq. Landdrost of 

Zwellendam, 123. 
Bukku, a plant, described, 157, 267. 
Bullocks, Cape, 37. See Oxen. 
Buntebock, antelope, 259. 
Burial of Christian Hottentots described, 

91. 
Bulla 1-giounds describcd| 43, 60. 



390 



INDEX. 



Burnt Kraal, 219. 
Butchers, Cape, 303, 3G8. 
Bush-cat described, 247. 

CAFFRARIA, view of, 221. 

Caffres, Christian, 67, 317, 318. Wild, 

devastation made by, 151. Cruelty 

of, 156. Prisoner, 205. Thieves, 220, 

232. 
Cairns, Dr. 299. 
Caledon, Earl of, 43. 
Caledon, village and drosty, 74. 
Caledon Institute. See Zuurbrak. 
Chameleon described, 37, 321. 
Camera obscuraj use of, 72, 83. 
Campbell, Rev. Mr. 201. 
Candidates for baptism, 45, 70. 
Candidates for the Lord's Supper, 70. 
Capelle, Baron de, his arrival at the 

Cape, 102. 
Cape Downs, 103. 
Capetown, 30. Its inhabitants, 32. 

Buildings, 33. Last visit to, 345. De- 
parture from, 349. 
Captains, Hottentot, 43, 81. 
Cat, kills snakes, 208. 
Catholics, Roman, ^2. 
Caverns, 190. 
Chamtoos Revier, 82, 190. Wagen- 

drift, 239. 
Chandelier, a plant, described, 161. 
Chapel- servants, 71. Their annual 

meeting, 71. 
Children. See Schools. Baptism. 
Chinese gardens, St. Helena, 359. 
Christmas, 33. 
Church, Established, Calvinist, 30, 260. 

Lutheran, 33, 291, 306, 313, 347. 
Church at Gnadenthal, described, 62, 

80. New, at Groenekloof, 287, 314, 

323. 
Circuit, 77. 
Clemens, August, missionary, 11, 55, 

78, 84. 
Cloete, Capt. Aide de Camp to the Go- 
vernor, 102. 

Cloete, , Esq. 36, 330. 

Cloete, Dirk, Esq. 96, 286. 
Commadocha, Military post, forsaken, 

219. 
Communion, Holy, celebration of, 72, 

271, 294, 317. 
Communicants, 70. 
Conference of Elders of the Unity, 41. 
Confirmation, previous to the Lord's 

Supper, 92. 
Constantia, vineyards, description of, 

330. 
Conversations with Hottentots in the 

interior, 127, 131, 135, 167, 175, 181. 

About land, 278. 
CorO} manner of sowing, 306. 



Cradock, Sir John, Governor, 143. 
Croucher, Mr. overseer of the Groote 

Post, 313. 
Cruelty to animals reprobated, 28, 117, 

302. 
Cruywagens-kraal, 44, 297, 342. 
Cuckoo, Green, 153. 
Cuyler, Colonel, landdrost of Uitenha- 

gen, 144, 198. 

DACHA, a poisonous herb, 324. 
Dambra, Hottentot tribe, 315,322, 325. 

Dashwood, , Esq. 305, 337. 

Delport, Mr. a farmer, 285. 

De Nyssen, , Esq. fiscal, 34. 

DeviPs-hill, 30, 101. 

Disandt, Mrs. 31, 101. See Capetown, 

349. 
Discipline, church, instances of, 41, 112, 

269, 272, 273. 
Dogs, not provided, 127. Thieving, 187, 

206, 320. 
Dolldrums, a sailor's term, 10. 
Dorn Revier, Great, 249. 
Doxology, 48. 

Dragoons, English, civility of, 129, 248# 
Dress of Christian Hottentots, 66. 
Drift, a ford near the Riet valley, 328. 
Duckett, Mr. 335. 
Dundas, General, Governor, 129. 
Dunen, sand hills, described, 340. 
Duivelskop mountain, 163. 
Du Preez, Piet, 129, 130, 258. Cobus, 

130, 257. 
Dutch, spoken at Gnadenthal, 288. 
Duyvenhoeks Revier, 129. 

EARTH-HOGS, 301. 

Easter, spent at the Boschberg, 221. 

Education. See Schools. Schoolmasters, 

321. 
Elephants, 156, 209, 213, 234. 
Elephant-stones, 322, 335. 
Elland, antelope, 254. 
Ellandsfonteyn, 241. 
Engelbrecht, Mr. Cornelius, 230. 
English, Capture of Cape, favourable 

disposition of, 278. Taxation, 236, 

&c. 
Epiphany, festival of, 47. 
Eseljagd Revier, 248. 
Essen bosch farm, and encampment at^ 

183,239. 
Exercises on board the Zebra, 372. 
Eysterhout wood, 37, 165, 

FAHLBLAR, a plant, 45. 
Farewell-address at Gnadenthal, 279. 

At Groenekloof, 323. 
Farms, 53, &c. 
Father, annual remembrance of his 

<leath, 22, 379. 



mDEX. 



391 



Fereira, Mr. Stephen, 175. His encoun- 
ter with a tyger, ib. 
Finches, yellow, their nests, 321, 
Fire-box, surprise occasioned by, 132. 
Fires on the mountains, 97, 104, 174, 

252. 
Fiscal-bird, 107. 

Fish River, Great, 220. Little, 221. 
Fiying-fish, 8, &;c. 
Forbes, Lieutenant, 219. 
Forbes, Henry, Esq. Conomander of his 

Majesty's Sloop Zebra, 345, 351, 384. 
Ford of the Sonderend, 61. Of the 

Bueffeljagds Revier, 125. In the 

Ruygte Valley, 151. Of the Knysna, 

154. 
Foundation, of new church at Groene- 

klook, 316. Foundation-stone laid, 

323, 336. 
Frauenfelder, , Esq. deputy land- 

drost of Caledon, 76. 
Friar rock and valley, St. Helena, 366. 
Fritsch, J. missionary, 40, &c. 307, 334, 

340, 341, 345. 
Frost, hard, 312. 

Funeral, description of, 91, 107, 337. 
Furze bushes in St. Helena, 365. 

GAENSE KRAAL, on the Sonderend, 
89. 

Gaense-kraal, farm of Dashwood, 

Esq. 337. 

Galgenbosch, a district, 195, 235. 

Gardens, at Capetown, 32. At Gna- 
denthal, 65. 

Geelhoutboom, 208. 

Geese, hungry, 134. 

George, village and drosty of, 143. 

Glens. See B avian's Kloof. Also 137, 
158. 

Gnadenthal, arrival at, 57. Descrip- 
tion of, ib. 63. Return from Cape 
to, 105. From the interior to, 264. 
Departure fronfi, 281. 

Good Friday, celebration of, 218. 

Governor, his Excellency the, 35, 102, 
320, 346, 349. 

Gowcomma Revier, 152. 

Gowritz Revier, 133, 255. 

Granite, 36, 43, 138, 149. With schls- 
tus, 306. 

Grant, Edward, Esq. 288, 346, 349. 

Gravestones, 106. 

Groeneland, 139. 

Groenekloof, arrival at, 40. Account 
of, 42. Second journey to, 94. Third 
journey to, 281, 307. First depar- 
ture from, 326. Second farewell, 345. 

Groote Paerdekraal, 252. 

Groote Post, a farm, 295, 313. 

Groot Vader's Bo»ch, 124. 



HAAGEKRAAL, 253. 

Hancke, Henry, Esq. 31, 102, 294, 328, 
347, 349. 

Hartebeest-house described, 249. 

Hartenbosch farm, 136. 

Hassner, Dr. 75, 282. 

Haue Hoek mountain, 55, 95. 

Heat, excessive, 98, 118. 

Hector, Christian, Hottentot, 114. Sent 
back, 123. 

Helena, baptized by Father George 
Schmidt, 60. 

Helena, St. 355, &c. 

Helsland, Von , Esq. 118, 262. 

Helstinge, Van, Mrs. 331. 

Herold, Rev. Mr. minister of George* 
144. 

Hesse, Rev. Mr. 33, &c. 303, 318, 346. 
Letter to him about the Church of 
the Brethren, 354. 

Hesqua tribe, account of, 108, 277. 

Hills of singular form, 153, 166, 173. 

Hoetz, Mr. his villa, 289. 

Hoogte Kraal, settlement of the Mis- 
sionary Society in London, described, 
140. 

Hooper, Mr. missionary at Bethelsdorp, 
200. 

Hospitality, instance of, 88. 

Hottentots, first meeting with Christian, 
40. Instances of character, 45. 64, 
72, 77, 112, 188. Desire for instruc- 
tion, 194. Of Bethelsdorp, 196, 202. 
Riding on oxen, 208. Conduct of, 
261, 266, 276, 281, 286, 309, 343, 
344. 

Hottentot-Hollands-Kloof, 54, 95, 285. 

Huet, a French bishop. Miller's life of, 6. 

Hunykliff Kloof, 255. 

Huysteyn, Van, Mr. veldcornet, 158. 
Hospitality of, 164. 

JACKAL^S KRAAL, 142, 157. Sur- 
vey of, 158, 159. Hottentots object 
to a settlement at, 161. 

Jagersbosch mountain, 110. 

Jagersbosch farm, 181, 240. 

James-town, St. Helena, 356. 

Jansen, General, Dutch Governor, 60. 

Jerboa, (springhaas,) Dutch, 210. 

Jeremias Waly, Hottentot wagoner, 114. 

Jester at Constantia, 331. 

Immanuel, a Hottentot, 303. 

Indian-fig, fence of, 293, 357. 

Injustice, instances of, to Hottentots, 84, 
120. 

Ink made of the wageboom leaf, 234. 

Instruction in Christian doctrines, 79, 
&;c. 

Johannes Paerl, Hottentot servant, 114. 

Jones, Rev, Dr, Senior Chaplain, 321. 



392 



INDEX. 



Joorst, a farmer, conversation with, 94, 
Journey to Groenekloof, 37. To Gna- 

denthal, 34. To visit the farmers, 84. 

Second, to Groenekloof, 94. To 

Capetown, 100. Return to Gnaden- 

thal, 103. To the Interior, 91, 114. 

To Groenekloof, 281. To Cape, 328. 

Pedestrian, 347. 
Ironstone, variety of, 38. Fossil, 251. 
Justice, instance of equal distribution 

of, by English law, 77. 

KAFFRE KUYLS Revier, 257. 

Kaffre Kraal, 234. 

Kango Cave, description of, by Mr. 

Poleman, 60. 
Karroo-field, 249, 
Kayman's Gat, defile, 146, 147. 
Kemp, Van der. Dr. missionary, 142, 

160, 201. His house, 203. 
Kersteobosch, seat of H. Alexander, 

Esq. 51, 101. 
Kervel. Van , Esq. landdrost of 

George, 142. 146. 248, 256. 
Kierboom-tree, 105. 
Kierboom's Revier, 86, 173. 
Klapmus, Captain of Hottentots, 48. 

His dwelling, 301. 
Klaarefonteyn, 195, 235. 
Kleinberg farm, 134. 
Klein Revier, 101, 199, 237. Visit to 

the farm at, 238. 
Klemm's, Mr. his farm, 56^ 94. 
Kliphuebel, 177. 
Klip Revier, 172. 
Kh'ppedrift farm. 249. 
Knobel, Mr. surveyor, 207. 
Knysna river, 154. 
Kohrhammer, J. Philip, missionary, his 

widow, 61, 84. His first sermon at 

Groenekloof, 300, 330. 
Kok, Servas de, a farmer, 283. 
Koodoo, antelope, 250. 
Koopman, Hottentot Captain, 109, 110, 

277. 
iCoster, Mr. missionary, 261. 
Kotzee, Mr. 39, 287. 
Kouga Revier, 208. 
Kourney, arrival at, 215. 
Kraal, a general name for a dwelling of 

man or beast. Round kraal near the 

Paerdekop, 166. Kloetes Kraal, 167. 
Krieg, Mr. a farmer, 255. 
Kromm Revier, 180, 239. 
Kuehnel, Father J. H. 58, 73, 93, 110. 
Kuntz, Mr. a farmer, 78. 

LAATSTE STUIVER, land, 341. 
Landdrosts, letters to, 103, 132. 
Langefonteyn, Mr. Dirk Slabbert^s 
farm, 343. 



Lange Kloof, 174. 

Lark, Cape, so called, 302. 

Latakoun, 203. 

Lava, red, 361. 

Lauweskloof, 43. Hill, 296, 297, 342. 

Laws, English, 77, 236. 

Lehrer, teacher, name given by the 
Hottentots td-the missionaries, 44. 

Leitner, J. M. P missionary, 57, 75. 

Lemmerz, John, missionary, 56, 92, 103. 

Leonhard Paerl, Hottentot groom, 114. 

Letter, Colonel Bird's, to landdrosts, 
122. 

Letters to children, 24. To various, ibr 

Lichen, vermilion-coloured, 166. 

Liesching, Dr. 340, 348. 

Limpets, large, at Green Point, 306. 

Linde, Mr. hospitality of, 86. 

Line, crossing the, ceremonies of, 18. 

Lion, tame, 200. 

Liturgy, at baptisms, 44. For Fridays, 
79. 

Lombard, Mr. his farm, 128, 258. A 
relation, 256. 

Longwood, St. Helena, described, 362. 

Lowe, Sir Hudson, Governor of St. He- 
lena, 356, 368. 

Loyalty, 170, 273. 

Luther, Dr. Martin, retains the use of 
music, 292. 

Lutherans, 51. 

Lutheran minister, duties of, 347. 

Lynx, 210. 

MACKRILL, Dr. 222. 

Madeira, 9. 

Marcus, Hottentot wagoner, 1 14. 

Marriages of Christian Hottentots, 106. 

Marsveld, Father Henry, 45. His ob- 
servation on the state of the Mission 
at Gnadenthal, 72 Account of be- 
ginning of labour here, 82. Con- 
firms, 92. Conversations, 109, 280, 
&:c. 

Matthiesen, , Esq. 304, 305. 

Mat-grass, St. Helena, 361. 

Matting, presented by Hottentot wo- 
men, 113. 

Mausehund. See Mongoose. 

Meade, Hon. General, 51 

Melkhout Kraal, 142, 155. 

M'Kenny,Rev. Mr. 52. 

Melville, Mr. 93, 101, 112, 114, 119, 
170, 263, 343. 

Messer, Mr. missionary at Bethelsdorp, 
200. 

Mey, Mr. a farmer, 177, 241. 

Meyer, Mr. a farmer, 136 

Miller, Mr. John. Irish hospitality, 257. 

Missionary Society in London, settle- 
ments of. See Zuurbrak, Hoogte 
Kraal, Bethelsdorp. 



INDiEX. 



393 



Missions of the United Brethren. See 
Gnadenthal, Groenekloof. 

Mole-hills, 57. 

Mongoose, a viverra, 35, 293. 

Monkey, gray, 200. 

Montgomery's World before the Flood, 
8. 

MorkePs farm, 53. 

Moses, Philip, a Hottentot, attacked by 
a tyger, 298. 

Mossel-bay, Government place, de- 
scribed, 135. 

Mountains of Gnadenthal, 57, 74, 90, 
262, 280. Of Stellenbosch, 286. Of 
Zwellendam, 121, 202. Of George, 
Paerdekop, 166. Lange Kloof, 174. 
Winterhoeks, 189, Zuurberg, 218. 
Rocky, 327. About the Cape, 348, 
351. 

Moy- Mack's Revier, part of Groene- 
kloof, 322. 

Mules, 52. 

Muller, Mr. at Kleinberg, 134. 

Muskiliat-cat, 293 

Music, Hottentots delight in, 67, 107. 
Haydn and Mosart's, 142, 207. In a 
glen, 170. Bad sinking, 140. Abuse 
of, 291. Concert, 346. 

NAMAQUAland, 111,203. 

Nels, commandant, 228. 

Neologen. Deists, 319. 

Neukirch, Mr. a farmer, 195, 196, 234, 
286. 

Newlands, country seat of the Governor, 
35. Visits at, 49, 290. 

New people, so called, 70. 

Night's lodging at Mr. Linde's described, 
87. At Mr. Sibran's, 96. In the wil- 
derness, 97. In an empty room at 
Hottentot's Holland, 104. Disturb- 
ed, 230. In a blacksmith's shop, 237. 
In a Hartebeest house, 249, &c. 

Nursery of young trees, 105. 

OAKELY, Mr. 225. 

Oaks, their growth, 53, 58, 89, 105. 

Objection against settlements near a high 
road, 182. 

Ocean, Atlantic, its inhabitants, 5, 21. 

Occupations on board a ship, 21. 

Okkers, Benjamin, a Hottentot garden- 
er, 93. 

Oliphant's Revier, 249. 

Oliviers farm, 177. 

Opzieners, (overseers,) appointment of, 
267, 272. 

Organ, 318. 

Osterhuysen, Mr. a farmer at Kourney, 
215, 232. 

Ostriches, 132. 

Oversetting of the baggage-wagon, 177. 



Outspann-place, 117. Hot, 121. 

Oxen. 37. Harness, 38. Cruelty to^ 
117. Wild, 127, 132, 134, 146, 148, 149, 
242, 260. Swimming, 15i,lB0, 193. 

PACALT, Mr. a missionary, 140. 

Paerdekop, mountain, 163, Passage 
over, 166. 

Paerl, Leonhard, 114. His account of 
Mission, 194. 

Paerl, Johannes, 114. 

Palmite, a plant, 162. 

Palmite Revier, 54. Bridge over, 284. 

Paradise Lost, Milton's, 19. 

Peaches, mode of drying, 78. 

Peacock, wild, 136, 164. 

Peak of Teneriife, 12. 

Pear-tree, planted by Father George 
Schmidt, 60. 

Pebbles, coloured by iron 55. 

Perihelion about the sun, 27. 

Persecution, instance of, 243. 

Petersen, Mr. surveyor, 133. 

Pictures, understood by Hottentots, 93* 

Pigeon, Cape, 27- 

Piton rocks, 10. 

Plantation-house, residence of the Go- 
vernor of Ht, Helena, 356. 

Plantations, 322, &c. 

Plettenberg-bay, 89, 142, 160, 161. 

Plough, iron, 313. 334. 

Poleman, Mr. 50, &;c. 293, 304, 330j 
347. 

Poor, care of the, 98, 265. 

Porcupines, 239. 

Porpoises, 4. Bottle-nosed, 16. 

Port, the, in Plettenberg-bay, 156. 

Portuguese man of war, a j5sh, described^ 
24. 

Prejudices, opposing improvement, 89. 

Prisoner at Uitenhagen, C. B. 206. 

Puffadder, 302. 

Pylstort, arrow-tail, fish, 335, 

QUAGGA, 255. 

Quarry at Groenekloof, 315. 

Quartz, 56. Crystallized, 167. 

RACKS for drying peaches, 78. 

Read, Mr. missionary at Bethelsdorp, 
200. 

Reade, Sir Thomas, St. Helena, 357, 
<fec. 370. 

Rebels, execution of, 144, 197. Con-" 
fiscated farm, 225. Account of meet- 
ings, 226. 

Regulations, bb. 70, 78. 

Relays, 122, &c. 

Rendsberg, Mr. veldcornet, 248. 

Rex, George, Esq. 142, 153, 157. 

Rhinoceros, 213, 234. 

Rhinoceros-bush, every whore, a plant. 



50 



394 



INDEX. 



Rhyneveld, , Esq. landdrost of 

Stellenbosch, 52. 

Riebeck, Dutch Governor, 2 J 4. 

Riet Valley, 345. 

Roads, good about Capetown, 38. 

Robbery of Hottentot's land, 84. 

Robyntjes kraal, 1 10, 264. 

Rocks, called the Eight Stones, 9. On 
the Witte Revier, 211. Of St. Hele- 
na, 356. 

Rutter, Mr. a farmer, at Groote Paerde- 
kraal, 252. 

Ruygte Valley, 151. 

SAFFRAN'S Revier, 251. 

Sal Island, Cape de Verd, 15. 

Sa'va^es. Inlands, 10. 

Samson's Revfer, 156. 

Sand-stone, every where, coloured by 
iron, 70. 

Sand Vlachte, a military post, 216,232. 

Sandy-bay, St. Helena, described, 361, 
365. 

Scheper, Jacobus, senior, 210. Junior, 
accompanies through the Witte Re- 
vier valley. 

Schlagboom farm, in the Witte Revier 
valley, 214. 

Schlangen Revier farm, 258. 

Schmidt, Father George, first missiona- 
ry, 60. 

Schmitt, J. H. a missionary, 35, 100, 
111, 114, 131, &c. 265. His encoun- 
ter with a tyger, 298. Birthday, 340. 

Schoolmasters, 246 327. 

Schools, 79, 81, 277, 312. 

Schroeder, Mr. a builder, 321, 324. 

Schultz, meeting witli, 104. 

Schwinn, Father Daniel, 58, 78, 110, &c. 
His decease, 309. 

Select narratives of History of the Bre- 
thren, 13. 

Secretary-birds, 197. 

Seidenfaden, Mr. a missionary, 126. 

Serpents, 80, 87, 107, 137, 141, 223, 
229,315,321, 331,343. 

Service, divine, on board the Albion, 3. 
At George, 143. 

Shaw, Mr. a missionary, 303. 

Sibran, Mr. a German farmer, 95. 

Siebenfonteyn, near Giiadenthal, 67. 

Sieckenhaus, a farm, 85. 

Eieurvogel, Mr. 320. 

Singing of the Hottentots, 40, 57, 67, 73. 

Skins, manner of tanning, 265. 

Sky, evening, description of, 12. 

Slabbert, Mr. a farmer, account of Vail- 
lant, 287, 317, 321, 323, 333. 

Slaves, price of, 125. Lively, 131, 133. 
Deserter, 250. 

Smallpox, at the Cape, 34. 

Snyman, Mr. a farmer, 133. 



Society, British and Foreign Bible, pre- 
sent to the Mission, 79. 

Society, Brethren's, for the Furtherance 
of the Gospel, 41. 

Soete-Melks- Valley, timber granted by 
government, 80, 90. 

Soldiers, military posts, a soldier killed 
by an elephant, 213. 

Solomon, a Hottentot, 94. His confi- 
dence, 97. 

Somerset, Lord Charles Henry, Govern- 
or of the Cape, 35. See Governor. 

Somerset, Henry Villiers Plantagenet, 
Esq. 329. 

Somerset, a settlement on the Boschberg, 
221. 

Sout Revier, Little, 138, 327. 

Soute Kloof, 191, 239. 

Sonderend river, 57, 85, 1 19. 

Spangenberg, bishop, Ri«ler's life of, 9. 

Spann, a Dutch term, team of oxen or 
horses, 117. 

Spectator, opinion of parts of the, 13. 

Springbocks, antelopes, in herds, 229. 

Starlings, Spreuven, 339. 

Stalactites, in Kango Cave, 50. 

Statutes. Rules, 267. 

Stein, J» G. Juergen, missionary, 46, 
111, 114. Hurt by the oversetting of 
the wagon, 178. 

Stell, Van, Governor, 332. 

Stellenbosch, village and drosty, 52. 
Mountains, 53. 

Stephen, a Hottentot, killed by a horse, 
69, 72. 

Stinkrevier, 134. ^ 

Stoffels-Kraal, Hottentot station, 84. 

Stoll, , Esq. landdrost of the Cape 

district, 34, 326, 340. 

Stones for building, 313. 

Storm at Groenekloof, 100,309,311. 

Sugar-bush, 254, 285. 

Sunday, amusements of lower classes on, 
at the Cape, 32. 

Sunday's River. See Zondags Revier. 

Swallows, domestic and wild, 339. 

Swann, Mr. surveyor, 221, 228. 

TABLE Mountain, 29, 102. 

Taxation, observation on it, 331. 

Teneriffe, 11. 

Terblanche, Mr. a farmer, 152. 

Tennis, Mr. senior, 85. 

Teunis, Mr. William, 90. 

Tennis, Jan, 85. 

Thom, Rev. Mr. missionar3% ^2^' 

Thomsen, , missionary, 25, 74, 105. 

Thornbush, mimosa, 121. 
Thunder storm, dreadful, 100. 
Timber, rearing of, neglected, 89. In 

Plettenberg-bay, 16^ 
Tortoises, 56, 302. 



INDEX. 



395 



J ower of Babel, mountain, 56^ 74. 
Travelling, mode of, at the Cape, 37. 

Arrangeipents for travelling, 116. 
Trees destroyed by Hottentots, 314. 

Curious in St. Helena, 361. 
Trekata*kou, defile, 150. 
Trutter, Von, , Esq. President of 

the Court of Justice, 34. 
Tygers, 87, 90, 137, 151, 171, 175, 182, 

184, 192, 240, 289, 297. 
Tygerfonteyn, 132. 

VANDERHAGEN, missionary, 220. 

Van Klerk, a farmer, 221. 

Van Rhenen, Sebastian, Mr. 290, 331. 

Van Roy, Mr. a farmer, 193, 235. 

Van Staade's Revier, 195. 

Van Vyvers» Mr. 229. 

Vat Revier, 130,257. 

Veldcornet, an inferior officer under Go- 
vernment, account of, J 86. 

Verwey. Mr. veldcornet, 326. 

Vineyards, 34. 

Uitenhagen, 192. 

Vlachdorn, a plant, 262, 308. 

Ungelegen farm, 174. 

Volcanic appearances, St. Helena, 356, 
&c. 

Vorspann. See Relays, 122. 

Voss, Rev. Mr. 75. 

Voyage, account of, 1. 

Urie, Mr. a German farmer, 95, 284. 

WAGEBOOM, a tree, 170, 177,218, 
234. 

Wagebooms Revier, 177. 

Wagons, Cape, described, 37, 116. 
Strength of, 165. 

Wallis, Captain, 356, 360. 

W^arra-bath, near Caledon, described, 
75. 

Water, want of, the cause of unfruitful- 
ness, 327. 

Waterfalls, 110. In Bavians Kloof, ib. 

Watt De, Mr. a farmer, 138. 

Waxberry-bush, 340. Method of boil- 
ing wax, 341. 



Welgelegen farm, 174. 
Whale, in Table-Bay, 304. 
Wilberforce, William, Esq. 349. 
Wilhelmina, a Caffre, her address, 68, 

111. 
Wild beasts, retreat from the dwellings 

of man, 213. 
Wild boars, 160, 170, 209. 
Wild dogs, 87, 137, 141. 
Williams, Mr. and Mrs. 201, 
Wimmer, Mr. a missionary, 126. 
Winterhoek's mountains, 189* 
Witteboom, 35, 102, 331. 
Wittedrift brook, 164. 
Witte Revier, 204. Described, 209. 

Visited by Hottentots, 232, 233. 
Wolf-house, a trap, 227. 
Wolfskloof, 342. 

Wolves, 54, 87, 101, 137, 154, 215. 
Woods, 125, 127, 151, 153, 192, 193, 

195, 197,209,331. 

YEAR, entrance into the new, 43^ 
Young, Captain, 302, 328. 

ZAAYMAN, Mr. a farmer, 145, 150. 
-Zaccheus, Deba, a Caffre, 317. 
Zebra, or wild horse, 255. 
Zebra sloop of war, passage offered in 

the, 328, 345. Cargo of the, 352. 
Zeekoegat farm, 130. 
Zinzendorf, Count, life by Miller, 8. 
Zitzikamma, 89. 

Zondag, Mr. a farmer at Avantur, 245. 
Zondags Revier, 199. 
Zorn, , Esq. his house described, 

36, 304. 
Zuurberg, encampment on, 217, 231. 
Zuurbrak, settlement of the Missionary 

Society in London, 124. Described, 

125. 
Zwarteberg, Mountain, 56. Described, 

74. 
Zwart Revier, 144. 
Zwarfzkops Revier, 198. 
Zwellendam, 121, 259. 



FINIS. 



» 5418 


















^ f ■ ' 1 ^ «> '-^ Oo ^ -^^ ^^^cidified using the Bookkeeper process, 

v^ ^K " %il\x\x^^' ^ ^ ^" "^V '^^^^''^''zirtg agent: Magnesium Oxide 

,\ --^^ ^^N^^i^^"' '^ ^. \^ Treatment Date: June 2003 



=^i:^. 



<^ 






PreservatlonTechnologies 

A WORLD LEADER IN PAPER PRESERVATIOf 



,^>' -r. 



__ es 

- — ERVATION 

1 1 1 Thomson Park Drive 
Cranberry Township. PA 16066 
(724)779-2111 










./.< 





>- i^^s^S-^^ " 4 -7-, 



%> c^^^ .^>K/>^^ 



^ 

\ 



a\ 



;'^/^b_, 



.\^^ 



. \ 1 



^' y ::.!'' -^ 



-y 



O-^ \y 



'^OO^^ 



o> Xl 



r. /. "'■'^-^- 



">°.-..,x'—\^^^",.-.-:v 









"•</■ .o- 






'/- ^ « 






.^> 



S^ 



\^ 






c^. 












V 



-. ,x^ 



A 



.A>' 



